Tutorial on Micro-dermabrasion Technology Thank you for deciding to learn more about the technology behind microdermabrasion by reading this information from Bella Products Inc. We, at Bella along with Esthetic Technology Group, hope you find it informative and helpful and we encourage your feedback or questions. This information is intended to give you a solid base from which to make an educated purchasing decision. If you understand how a microdermabrasion system works, the actual physics behind the concept, you will be better able to choose a well designed system that fits your needs and budget. Obviously, we would prefer that you choose to purchase a Bella System and we are certain that, if you evaluate systems on performance characteristics, ease of use, and effectiveness of treatment, you will actually buy a Bella. But, at a minimum, we hope this tutorial helps you end up with a system that has the capability to assist you in building your aesthetic business. We are a manufacturer of other products in addition to microdermabrasion and we want you to feel that we have been helpful in your search for knowledge to aid in your search for the best micro system. Please consider us for other products such as DermaJoule LED Light System, even if you don’t buy one of our Bella micro-dermabrasion systems. Introduction Contrary to what you may have heard, All microdermabrasion machines are not the same, nor do they work in the same manner. Each machine is designed by an independent person and based on that persons concept of 'what is needed to perform the task' and their own talent, so goes the design. There are many microdermabrasion systems available on the market today, maybe as many as 35 different manufacturers. Machines come in various colors, shapes and sizes, low cost to very expensive, with many options and features, some of them work, and some of them don't. A salesperson will attempt to lead you down a path that ends in the purchase of the system they are selling. Of course they will down play or avoid all of the negative aspects of their product. Some will stretch the truth and some will be straight liars. You may be inclined to believe them unless you are informed. If you have the knowledge, you can differentiate between fact and fiction, reality and sales hype. I hope to enlighten you on how a design is conceptualized and brought to manufacturing and you may question my motive. My motive is to sell you my machine, but not by lying to you. Instead, my plan is to teach you, in a very short course, all about the logic and technology that goes into inventing a technology for the marketplace. That is what I did in 1997. I invented a new technology for the aesthetic marketplace. You will be told that microdermabrasion as a procedure is very profitable. That is a true statement. In many areas, you can charge $100 or more per treatment. Your cost can be as low as $2 to $5 in supplies. That is a high profit margin for a single treatment. But, if your system is not effective, one treatment may be the most you can sell to an individual client. Remember when someone comes into your facility with a skin problem, you will get just one chance to convince them that you are the one who can provide the solution. With a poorly designed machine that person may feel microdermabrasion just does not work for them and, after one session, they will not return for additional appointments. In the worst case, they may not trust you to provide them with any other aesthetic treatment and they will take their business, and friends elsewhere. There is a cost, in advertising expenses and referral opportunities, to get each new client in the door so you must capitalize on every chance to convert everyone into a repeat customer. A successful microdermabrasion business is one where you don’t have to do a lot of expensive advertising because your satisfied, repeat customers will provide you with numerous referrals. Having a system that is not effective will lead you to continually spend advertising dollars in the attempt to bring in new clients to replace the ones that stop coming. Ultimately, you may end up selling a poorly designed system on the used market at a substantial loss because of the lack of success of your microdermabrasion business. A high purchase price does not guarantee high performance just as a low purchase price will not guarantee profitability. There are many used systems available on the market at very low prices. You might ask yourself, "Why are these machines on the market"? Why would anyone sell a microdermabrasion system, at an obvious loss, if it can generate such high profits? You can be reasonably certain the vacuum motors in those used systems still operate. Very few systems suffer total motor failure. Most of the problems operators encounter with machines are performance issues due to a poor design. Warranties do not cover performance problems, only system failures. The unbelievably low price or the long warranty is no guarantee that you won’t be listing that system with an online auction site well before you have made your money back on the investment. Overall performance is, by far, the most important factor in selecting a micro-dermabrasion machine. Ninety percent of the used machines on the market are there because of the inability of the machine to perform the function for which it was purchased. So, how do you evaluate the performance of a microdermabrasion system? You must first understand that all vacuum powered microdermabrasion systems operate under the same laws of physics. That is a fact. Don’t begin your search for a machine before you have a basic understanding of how these systems should work. Even if you are an experienced microdermabrasion operator and believe you know how they work, we still recommend that you read this information in its entirety. There are many points of design that you will not find addressed anywhere else in any document. Again, we encourage your questions and comments. Please read on. The Important Features A microdermabrasion system is actually a precision closed vacuum/sandblaster for the skin. The treatment consists of an exfoliation of the top layers of the epidermis, the stratum corneum, by means of a beam of micro-particles striking the skin at a high rate of speed. The beam of particles is pulled towards the tissue by vacuum pressure; the level of vacuum pressure determines the speed of the crystals and therefore the abrasion power. There are three factors that determine the potential effectiveness of a system. The size of the abrasion pattern: The beam of particles must cover a sizable area of skin and must be consistently disbursed within the pattern of exfoliation. This area that is being abraded by the crystals is called the abrasion pattern. Every pass the operator makes with the handset delivers a line of abrasion on the skin. The size, strength and evenness of the abrasion pattern determines how many passes are required to perform an effective and even treatment. **The system must be capable of holding a constant and safe level of vacuum pressure. The vacuum pressure dictates the level of abrasion. A low vacuum pressure will deliver a mild abrasion and a high vacuum pressure will deliver an aggressive abrasion. A fluctuating vacuum pressure will deliver an inconsistent abrasion power resulting in an inconsistent treatment with varying amounts of abrasion as the vacuum and crystal density fluctuates and is virtually impossible to replicate. To deliver a treatment that is consistent and reproducible, the vacuum pressure must be constant, making the abrasion power consistent. The only way to do this with a microdermabrasion system is to set the pressure adjustment correctly and keep the handset in constant contact with the skin, without lifting the handset from the skin between the passes over the skin (as in erasing), and abrading the skin in large sections. This allows the system to attain the vacuum pressure that the operator has set and then maintain that pressure setting, and abrasion level, throughout the entire section being treated. Many systems will rupture capillaries if left on the skin for more than 2-3 seconds so the operator is required to “stroke and lift” which delivers a fluctuating vacuum pressure and an inconsistent abrasion.** The system must be able to measure the vacuum pressure on the tissue accurately. The vacuum pressure that exists in the handset cap dictates the abrasion power so a system’s treatment pressure gauge must measure the pressure in the handset at the application window. Almost all systems have their treatment pressure gauge and pressure adjustment system connected to the motor in a manner where the gauge measures the vacuum pressure required to pull the air from the handset, through the waste container, to the vacuum motor. As the waste container fills with skin debris, oils and dirty crystals, the filter in the waste system will become obstructed. This obstructed waste canister will cause the vacuum treatment gauge to show an increase in vacuum pressure while the actual vacuum pressure in the handset will continually reduce as each additional treatment is performed. This drop in vacuum pressure in the handset is very slow and will change from one treatment to the next. So the operator cannot accurately measure the abrasion of each treatment on the client. If a system’s treatment gauge and vacuum adjustment is connected to the motor, a situation, over time, will occur where the gauge indicates a strong or high treatment pressure to draw air through the waste system, but there will be very little vacuum pressure in the handset and no actual abrasion power whatsoever. A system that utilizes this type of design makes it virtually impossible for the operator to accurately deliver the same level of abrasion power from one treatment to the next and can never reproduce the same treatment. It will all be a matter of guesswork. To eliminate guesswork, the gauge must measure the actual handset pressure on the tissue at all times. If the system is designed properly, you will have the greatest chance of developing a repeat client base and a successful aesthetic business. Those three factors cannot be ignored. Table of Contents Understanding How a Microdermabrasion System Works Abrasion and Vacuum Evaluating a System's Abrasion Qualities Evaluating a System’s Vacuum Qualities Pressure Gauge System Clogging Issues Maintenance-Free Claims Recommendations by Other Skin Care Professionals Can the System use Different Types of Crystal Products Is Corundum Safe? Low Cost Crystals and the Cost of Operation "Natural" and "Non-Crystal" Systems Is the Device FDA Approved? Medical Grade Systems Does the System have the Proper Filters? Does the skin need to be dried before treating? Microdermabrasion Treatments with Chemical Peels. Vitamin C and Oxygen Systems "Diamond" and "Diamond Shaped" Crystals Marketing Materials and System Appearance Warranty- Lifetime Guarantees Trade-In and Buy-Back Policies Referral Fees Understanding How a Microdermabrasion System Works Every microdermabrasion system has these components: 1) a vacuum motor 2) a clean crystal supply container 3) a specially designed handset (which delivers the crystals to the skin and vacuums them away) 4) a waste canister where the used crystals and skin debris is deposited 5) some form of filter to stop the waste from reaching the motor. Microdermabrasion systems are, essentially, a vacuum cleaner combined with a sandblaster. The skin is receiving a precision “sandblasting” treatment. The vacuum draws the sand (or crystal, in this case) through the system: There is no air compressor pushing the air and crystals to the skin, the vacuum “pulls” the crystals towards the skin. The sandblasting and vacuuming action is part of a loop: the vacuum motor draws the air that creates a vacuum at the Handset application window. This vacuum creates an air stream through the crystal delivery system and carries the crystals from the clean crystal container, through the abrasion system, at the handset, and on into the waste container. Along the way, at the handset, the crystals strike the skin in the abrasion window and perform the abrasion. This method is referred to as a closed loop system. You are probably wondering, “How does the vacuum drive the crystals to the skin and clean them up too?” This is achieved by the specially designed handset, which is a very critical component of the system. (cont. on next page) Photo 1. An example of a handset. This example has a removable tip and, as you can see, the handset tip is installed. (Some designs do not have a removable tip but both designs operate under the same principals.) The White Arrow points to the handset tip and Blue Arrow points to the application window (this is the opening where the abrasion is applied to the client’s skin). Photo 2. This photo shows the handset with the handset tip removed. The White Arrow points to the crystal port (also called the accelerator) which is where the crystals exit before striking the skin and the Blue Arrows point to the vacuum ports (most systems have only one vacuum port; this example, the patented Bella design, has three). Photo 3. The Blue Arrows show the direction of the airflow when the system is turned on. The vacuum motor is drawing air in through the vacuum ports of the handset. Note that there is no air or crystal movement coming from the accelerator port. Photo 4. The Blue Arrows show the direction of the airflow when the system is turned on and the handset tip is installed. Note that there is no air or crystal movement coming from the accelerator port. Photo 5. This photo shows what occurs when the application window is covered by the client’s skin (or in this case my finger). Since the application window is blocked and can no longer supply air to the vacuum port(s), the vacuum motor creates a vacuum in the handset tip cavity which then causes the air from the accelerator port to rush in to fill that vacuum, illustrated by the Blue Arrows. This rush of air from the accelerator port initiates the flow of air from the clean crystal container, which then brings the crystals along in the air stream and delivers them to the handset, illustrated by the White Arrows. The crystals are drawn though the accelerator port at a high rate of speed and, because of their weight and kinetic energy, fly straight out of the accelerator as if they are shot out of a gun and strike the skin to perform the abrasion. Once the crystals have struck the skin, losing all their power and energy, they are drawn into the vacuum ports along with the skin debris. The abrasion is interrupted when the handset is lifted off the client’s skin. This action allows air to enter the application window so the vacuum is lost and no longer draws the air stream from the accelerator port, which stops the air flow in the crystal delivery system. Now the physics part of this lesson In order for the particles to have the required kinetic energy to perform an abrasion, they need to have enough mass, combined with sufficient velocity. This means the crystals have to weigh enough and be moving fast enough to collide with the skin with enough force to remove a piece of stratum corneum. The factors that dictate the power of the abrasion are the vacuum pressure level, the air volume and the size of the accelerator opening and the mass of the particle. Let’s put this in simple terms. Compare the microdermabrasion system to your garden hose and faucet. If you turn on the faucet connected to your garden hose and put your thumb or finger over the end of the hose, creating a small opening for the water to exit, you can spray with enough force to clean your car or driveway. The two ways you can increase the strength and cleaning power of the water stream is to either turn up the water pressure by opening the faucet more, or pressing harder with your finger over the end of the hose to make the opening smaller. If you combine those two factors, you can create a powerful stream of water that has maximum cleaning power. Turning the faucet all the way open increases the water pressure and volume of water running through the hose. Making the opening smaller with your finger increases the exiting speed of the water. The smaller you make the opening, the tighter the stream of water and the faster it will come out of the hose; it will have more power, but it will cover a much smaller area. Continuing this analogy to the ridicules we would have a water jet cutting machine. This is how a microdermabrasion system is very much like your garden hose. The vacuum valve is like your faucet. As you turn up the vacuum power on the microdermabrasion system, you increase the air volume that carries the crystals to the skin. The accelerator opening in the handset is like your finger on the end of the garden hose. The accelerator in the handset (just like the opening created by your finger in the end of the garden hose) is much smaller than the size of the hose leading to it and will make the crystals accelerate as they exit, giving the crystals the speed (and power) to perform an abrasion. The smaller the accelerator opening, the faster the crystals will be moving when they strike the skin, which equals more abrasion power. Vacuum pressure directly controls the level of abrasion. A low vacuum pressure draws a low volume of air and crystals through the accelerator at a slower speed and delivers a slight abrasion; a high vacuum pressure draws a high volume of air and crystals through the accelerator at a much higher speed and delivers an aggressive abrasion. To deliver a consistent (and effective) treatment, the vacuum pressure must be held constant. It cannot fluctuate. An abrasion treatment that is delivered with a fluctuating vacuum pressure will have varying levels of abrasion, making the abrasion inconsistent. There is no way you can apply the same amount of vacuum pressure and abrasion to each and every skin type. Nor can you apply the same amount of vacuum pressure and abrasion to all areas of an individual’s face or body. An adjustment system must accurately control the vacuum pressure so the operator can make adjustments for each situation and also be confident in the level of abrasion they are providing at all times. To achieve that goal, the system must have a gauge that measures the vacuum pressure at the handset application window. Only the vacuum pressure in the handset dictates the level of abrasion being delivered to the client’s skin, the vacuum pressure in every other area of a system is truly irrelevant to the treatment. There are some systems on the market that do not have a pressure gauge and there are even some without a vacuum pressure adjustment, just one setting for every treatment. These are very critical components to leave out. Some systems have a small number of pre-set vacuum levels, limiting the operator’s ability to perform a custom treatment. The system must have the capability to adjust the vacuum pressure in very small increments and a gauge that accurately measures the pressure in the handset at the application window. High speed (velocity) combined with particles that have sufficient weight (mass) will develop the power (kinetic energy) to sandblast the skin. The crystals need to be consistent in size and should not contain any dust since the dust will not perform an abrasion (dust particles have very little mass and shadow the tissue). Dust will also create clogging problems in the injection system due to increased lattice structures between dust and crystal particles. The system needs to have the right amount of airflow with the proper size of accelerator to do an effective and even abrasion while the airflow combined with the appropriate tubing size allows for efficient removal of the waste without waste clogging issues. It is truly a balancing act, because, if the accelerator opening is too large, the system will not have sufficient power, but as the accelerator opening is reduced, the stream of crystals (just like the stream of water in the garden hose) is narrowed and will cover a much smaller area. A very small accelerator opening equates to an uncontrollable abrasion that is too concentrated and will make it difficult to work with because it covers so small of an area of skin. This condition will require you to make numerous passes in an attempt to deliver an even abrasion and will create a “hit or miss” situation (commonly known as “striping”, leaving red stripes on the skin). If the accelerator opening is extremely small, it will be impossible to control the vacuum pressure on the client’s skin, which will cause damage in the form of ruptured capillaries (hickeys). It is much more likely for someone to design an ineffective and/or bad machine than it is to design a good one. It is a technology that seems simple, but it is a very complex issue. Anyone who tells you that all microdermabrasion systems are the same, has absolutely no understanding of the technology involved in this modality. Abrasion and Vacuum Aspiration: What is actually happening The abrasion removes a percentage of the stratum corneum (dead surface cells), causing underlying fresh cells to be exposed and start the generation of new cells. The vacuum aspiration draws blood into the dermis, increases circulation, causing immediate fibroblast activity which promotes the short term formation of collagen and elastin. The misleading thing about some microdermabrasion systems is that they deliver a vacuum treatment but have little or no abrasion capabilities. The vacuum treatment alone can produce moderate results. That may make a few clients think they are getting what they paid for, but most will be disappointed because they will not receive the long term replacement of cell structure. This is where the informed equipment buyer can make a difference. The microdermabrasion system that can effectively and safely do both components independently, the abrasion and the vacuum aspiration, will provide the best or most optimum results. Additionally, if that system allows the operator to measure and record the setting and strength of both of the treatments, abrasion and vacuum aspiration, the operator can accurately replicate all future treatments. This combination will help to create a satisfied clientele who will continually return for additional treatments and, more importantly, provide referrals. That is the best kind of advertising because it is person to person and it is free! Evaluating a system's abrasion qualities First determine if the system can perform an effective abrasion. Passing the handset over the back of your hand may give you the sensation of a cat aggressively licking your skin, but you have no idea what the abrasion pattern is or how much of the stratum corneum is removed unless you took samples and examined them under a microscope which is beyond the capabilities of most purchasers of this technology. The quickest, easiest and most accurate (and painless) way to measure a system's abrasion qualities is using the magazine test. Yes, I said using the magazine test. Testing is just that simple. Remember, this technology is basically; particles in an air stream, brought up to high kinetic energy, shot out of an accelerator at the skin to do an abrasion. So to look at the end result all we have to do is find a way to picture it. Now let's do it. ** Place the handset on a magazine page of dark ink and see how much ink is removed over a set period of time. The white mark that is left on the magazine page indicates many things including the shape and size of the abrasion pattern. Remember that you are, first and foremost, charging your clients for an abrasion treatment. If the system cannot be adjusted to remove ink from a magazine over the area equal to the application window in the application cap in a uniform and even manner, it cannot effectively and efficiently abrade skin. After doing multiple spot tests at multiple pressure settings do some three inch line abrasions at a constant hands speed to check for linear crystal density over time. The abraded line should have a uniform abrasion with no light or dark spots. Again do this check at multiple pressure settings. Testing a Microdermabrasion machine is just this simple.** If all of the patterns are very faint, small or odd shaped, the machine cannot do an effective abrasion. Remember, you need to remove the dead skin cells to expose underlying cells over the complete area, not in a random manner. If the system you purchase is inconsistent or cannot perform a consistent abrasion, you will not be able to deliver an effective treatment and you will have a difficult time developing a repeat client base. Some customers may believe that microdermabrasion, in general, isn’t effective, or worse, will believe you do not know what you are doing. If they can find another skin care professional that has an effective system, they may not come back to you for any type of service. Also, your time is money. If the system has a small abrasion pattern, you will spend a lot of time and effort trying to deliver an effective and complete treatment to the point that the cost in crystals and your time will greatly erode your profits. Your system should be able to deliver an effective abrasion with one pass of the handset, and with slightly overlapping strokes over an entire section of tissue. Making multiple single passes over any one area should be the exception, not the rule. Some manufacturers require four passes (one vertical, another horizontal and then diagonal passes going both directions) over the same area because they know their handtool or machine abrasion pattern is inferior and inconsistent. Some manufacturers have multiple handsets to choose from. Make sure the handset you evaluate (with the magazine test) is the one you will be purchasing. F.Y.I. - Some manufacturers charge more for models based on the handset that is included. You may find there is little to no difference between the performance of each of the models and the only difference will be the handset (and they charge thousands more per model... for a $200 handset). Make sure you know what you are paying for and what you are actually getting. Also, do not confuse power with lack of control. What appears on the magazine page when you perform the magazine test is what will happen on your client's skin. If a system's abrasion pattern burns a hole in the magazine page in a short period of time, that system can become a liability to your business. The lack of control in many systems comes from the design in the handset, which produces a concentrated beam of the abrasive particles. This uneven distribution of the crystals creates an area in the abrasion pattern that is over-abraded and will result in skin damage; many handset designs create a pinhead size hole within the pattern. The skin (or magazine) that is over-abraded is referred to as a "hotspot". Find a system that, even at the highest setting possible, will remove the ink from the magazine over a large area without producing a hotspot. Although you may never operate a system at the maximum setting, doing the magazine test at the highest setting will expose any system design flaws. You may come across a client that requires an aggressive treatment and, if you don't know that your system produces a hotspot at a higher setting, there is the possibility that you could cause tissue damage with the resulting liability. A large, even abrasion pattern that is similar to what an airbrush would produce is important; one that fades at the edges, because you want to be able to slightly overlap the strokes to achieve an even abrasion. Keep in mind that, as you make each pass over the client's skin, you are removing more layers of the stratum corneum. If the abrasion pattern is solid right up to the margins of the handset cap opening, with no fading near the edges, you will remove too much skin in the areas where the strokes overlapped and none at all if you do not overlap. This is one of the main causes of striping (leaving stripes on the client's skin after the treatment). Just imagine what type of pattern is going to best deliver an abrasion without either removing too little or too much in any one place. The design of the handset is the largest factor in the resulting abrasion pattern. A handset that delivers crystals at any angle other than 90-degrees will perform an uneven abrasion. It is a matter of physics. Additionally, if a system delivers crystals in a swirling or orbital pattern, it will have little to no abrasion power. Please review Handset Designs for additional information. In evaluating the abrasion pattern and the manufacturer's recommended use of the handset, there are these rules to consider: 1. Size; a abrasion pattern the size of the eraser of a #2 pencil is about the smallest you should settle for, anything less is too small to work with. Multiple application cap sizes is a plus. 2. Evenness; the abrasion must not be odd shaped and cannot have hot spots 3. Pattern; the abrasion pattern that fades near the edges is much more workable than one that is solid to the edges (solid to the edge means that the crystals pattern was actually larger than the window of the cap and some crystals hit the inside of the cap and were lost into the waste system). 4. One Pass Recommended Operation; one overlapped pass should be all that is required, if the manufacturer recommends that you always make more than one pass over an area, they must be aware of their inferior abrasion pattern. Do not settle for less in this area of design! Evaluating a system's vacuum aspiration qualities Vacuum is a very important part of the treatment but can also cause damage if the system is not designed properly. In all microdermabrasion systems, when you turn the machine power switch to "on", the vacuum motor starts drawing the air from all of the cavities of the waste system, i.e. the waste container, the fittings and tubing and the application window of the handset cap, this window is considered part of the waste system. In fact this window is the beginning of the waste system because it is where the waste is generated from the impact of the crystals on the tissue. However, the vacuum pressure does not reach its maximum in any of those cavities until you cover the handset cap opening (the application window) either with your finger or by putting it in contact with the client's skin. The instant you cover the application window, the motor starts to evacuate the remaining air from the cavities. It takes up to a full second or more in some machines, and up to more than two full seconds, for all of the cavities to reach a balance position and hold the maximum vacuum pressure (based on the setting of the vacuum pressure adjustment of the system). When you, the operator, set the vacuum pressure on a microdermabrasion system, you do this with the idea that this is the amount of pressure you, as a skin expert, feel is appropriate for the treatment you intend on performing. But, unless you keep the handset on the client's skin for more than one full second, most systems do not reach the vacuum pressure you have set. F.Y.I. -If you have a system that, when you cover (occlude) the handset cap opening, the needle on the treatment gauge immediately jumps up to the level you have set, check the system to see where the treatment gauge is connected. (See "Does the gauge accurately reflect the pressure on the client's skin?" section following this page.) If a microdermabrasion system manufacturer instructs you to perform strokes with their handset in the manner of; stroke, then lift, stroke, then lift, you should not buy the system for two reasons: 1. Unless you keep the handset in contact with the client's skin for at least one full second, the vacuum pressure is completely inconsistent, does not attain the level you have set, and cannot possibly deliver an effective treatment that is consistent over the entire area you are abrading. 2. The manufacturer probably knows their design is flawed and is aware there is a possibility of causing damage to your client's skin and capillaries if the handset is left on the skin for more than a couple seconds due to the systems over vacuum charging. The damage is caused by the fact that the opening where the crystals exit the handset, the accelerator, is too small of a bore. If the manufacturer utilizes a very small accelerator opening, the crystals will continue to have more abrasion power as the system over charges over time. It is a fine line between having the correct size opening, making it safe to use and having a sufficient amount of abrasion power, or making it dangerous. Making the bore of the accelerator to small will cause two problems: 1) it will create a hotspot in the abrasion pattern because the crystals will be heavily concentrated in the center of the beam of particles (see previous page for abrasion qualities)and, 2) and the second problem is in regards to vacuum. As the vacuum pressure builds in the handset cap (and on the client’s skin) the vacuum pulls the crystals out through the accelerator opening but, at the same time, is also trying to draw air from the window opening, which is closed by the tissue of the client. If the accelerator opening is too small, the system cannot draw both crystals and enough air through the accelerator opening to balance the vacuum pressure, the pressure inside the handset cap will build to a high level and possibly rupture the client’s capillaries! Some manufacturers will actually tell you that the handset will cause tissue damage if left on the skin for more than two or three seconds with their machine. Not only will a system such as described above cause capillary damage, it will deliver an inconsistent abrasion. Crystals are driven by the vacuum pressure and the air volume determines the velocity of the crystal particles. That is a matter of physics. At a low vacuum pressure, the crystals will have a low velocity and deliver a slight abrasion, at a high vacuum pressure the crystals will have a high velocity and deliver an aggressive abrasion. When you "stroke and lift", the system will begin at a low pressure and, because the pressure in any systems will not instantly attain full vacuum, the pressure will continue building throughout the "stroke" and you will be abrading the skin in a totally inconsistent manner, never abrading the skin at the setting you, as a skin expert, had determined when you set the system's vacuum pressure at the start of the treatment. Using a "stroke and lift" method will make it impossible to replicate your treatments. You will have low speed crystals at the beginning of the stroke and as the pressure builds the crystal speed will increase so at the end of the stroke you will have very aggressive abrasion but if you keep the handset on the tissue to long such as an extended stroke, you will have capillary damage. This is not meant to offend any skin care professional who has been performing treatments with a "stroke and lift" method. You are trained by the manufacturer, and they have no reason to educate operators in the technology of microdermabrasion or shortcomings of their products. Keep in mind that many of the systems currently on the market were not designed by pneumatic engineers but were made by copying some other company’s copy of someone else's design. And that someone, at the beginning, who did not understand the technology, copied someone else’s silly design. Because of that, for years estheticians have adapted their technique to this improper unsound. From very early on after the first patent submission in 1998, machines with improperly- copied designs were causing tissue and capillary damage and many of these designs were copied by non-technical individuals so these types of machines proliferated into the industry. This "stroke and lift" technique, which with the process of some common sense logic can be seen as completely silly, has been passed down from one technologically unknowledgeable trainer to another until the majority of skin care professionals believe that this is the only way it should be done. There are probably many experienced system operators who are thinking as they read this that the writer of this article does not know what they are talking about. If you are one of those people, consider this: If your vehicle were covered with mud and you wanted to wash it with the garden hose, would you aim the hose at the vehicle and, with the other hand, turn the faucet on and off, raising and lowering the water pressure? Probably not. Wouldn’t you set it at your desired pressure and sweep back and forth with the water stream operating at a constant pressure? Please take the time to finish reading this information and let me give you, instead of an analogy of the water hose, the actual crystal and air considerations. When you first apply the handset to the tissue, the vacuum starts to rise in the cavity of handset cap. The amount of time it takes for the vacuum to rise to the stable balanced position is determined by the total size of all the cavities in the waste system from the handset to the motor. On some machines, based on the sophistication of the design, this time is very short (.25 seconds), on other machines, with poor designs, it can take up to 3 seconds. But the quicker stasis (balance) happens, the better. During this time the air, due to the rising vacuum in the handset cavity, is starting to flow through the accelerator and in the crystal transport section of the machine. As the air flows it will pull crystal from the crystal storage (jar, tank, receptacle), and into the air stream. These crystals will be flowing, dispersed in the air stream, towards the accelerator to later impact the tissue and do the abrasion. Now, let us assume, we have had the handset on the tissue for enough time to complete a three inch stroke with the handset and have abraded the tissue with this stroke. Now, we raise the handset from the tissue (stroke and lift method). Remember, while we had the handset on the tissue we had a continuous air stream, carrying stratified crystals, moving toward the tissue from the crystal container. Now, when we lift the handset from the tissue, to start a new pass, the vacuum that created the air stream is lost and the air stream collapses. The six feet of crystal in the handset hose is no longer supported by an air stream and it falls to the lowest point in the handset hose as a clump of crystal. When we start the next stroke the initial vacuum will pull this clump of crystal into the handset as a block but it will do no abrasion because of the nature of the clump and lack of speed, it will be directly evacuated, through the handset, to the waste system. So using the 'stroke and lift method' of treatment, the one thing we know for sure is that we will waste a handset hose full of crystal, six feet of hose, every time we do a three inch stroke of abrasion. This reason alone should be reason enough to never use this method of handset movement during abrasion. If you stop and think about this concept, you will have to agree that the "stroke and lift" method is not only inconsistent in abrasion but it is also very costly in materials. It is truly a matter of physics and cannot be disputed. However, don't change your method until you are certain your system will not cause capillary damage by over charging of the vacuum. If you find that your system is safe, you will see that this technique of keeping the handset on the skin will deliver a more effective treatment than the "stroke and lift" method. Again, operate this way only if you are positively sure your system is safe (see this section on how to properly test your system for vacuum safety). Only purchase a system where the manufacturer instructs you to abrade a complete area (i.e. the forehead, or a cheek, etc.) while keeping the handset cap in contact with the client's skin, making passes back and forth without lifting the handset the whole time you are abrading that area. You will be applying a consistent vacuum pressure to the skin, which directly equates to a consistent abrasion. Not only will it allow you to deliver a consistent treatment it will not create a liability for your business. Do not believe any manufacturer if they say that all microdermabrasion systems will cause a "hickey" if left on the skin for more than one or two seconds. There are a number of systems that allow you to keep the handset in contact with the skin for the complete treatment. The real issue is to not let the handset remain in one place on the tissue, keep it moving. Those are the ONLY systems you should consider. This is one of the most important factors and you should not overlook this for any reason! Pressure Gauge: Does the gauge accurately reflect the pressure on the client’s skin? First of all, do not buy a system that does not have a pressure gauge. You are working with vacuum pressure and should be measuring that pressure with the tool designed for that purpose, a vacuum pressure gauge. A system that has lights or a digital readout indicating a percentage is telling you exactly what? Those items are electronic components and are connected electrically; essentially a switch is controlling the lights or readout and there is no true measurement of the actual vacuum pressure. (If there is a pressure gauge controlling those electronic components, why not display that gauge?) Next, determine if the gauge is measuring the pressure being applied to the client’s skin. The gauge must be connected in a way so that it only measures the pressure in the tubing leading to the handset and the pressure in the handset cap, which correlates directly with the pressure being applied to the client’s skin. If you have that information, you can document it and use it as a future reference for that client’s treatments when they return. However, if the system's gauge is measuring the pressure of the whole vacuum system, it is impossible to know what amount of pressure is being applied to the client’s skin. As the system’s waste container and waste filter begin to fill with skin debris, oil and dirty crystals, the vacuum pressure that is required to pull the air through the waste area increases while the vacuum pressure in the handset cap and the pressure on the client’s skin is decreasing. If the gauge measures the vacuum pressure in the waste areas, you have no idea what level of pressure you are applying to your client’s skin unless you keep the waste container and waste filter spotlessly clean and even then it will at best be just a close guess. It is just like your vacuum cleaner at home: when the bag is full, the motor can be running but the vacuum cleaner does not have the power to pick up any more dirt. If the gauge of a microdermabrasion system is measuring the pressure in the waste container, you could have a high reading on the gauge with literally no pressure at all in the handset. Handset vacuum pressure and induced air flow is the critical item because this determines the crystal density, speed and abrasion. Many experienced microdermabrasion operators believe they can accurately set the vacuum pressure by passing the handset over the back of their hand and "feeling" the pressure. It would be safe to say that there are very few people who can set a system's vacuum pressure and then consistently MATCH that vacuum pressure using this method when asked to perform this feat once or twice within a minute or two. There is NO ONE that can set a system's pressure to the exact same setting two weeks later by using this method (your clients will be coming once every 7 to 14 days for treatments). It is physically impossible and would be a matter of sheer luck if any settings would be close to consistent. Why have any guesswork involved in your profession if you can choose not to? There are two easy ways to determine how a system is constructed in terms of the pressure gauge. The first is a visual check; if the handset is connected directly to the waste container, it is wrong, period. There is another way to confirm the vacuum pressure adjustment and treatment gauge position in a closed system: disconnect the waste container, turn the system on and plug the air suction intake where the waste container was attached. If the needle on the gauge moves, the gauge is measuring the pressure in the waste container. Now adjust the vacuum valve and see if you can change the gauge reading. If you can change the pressure, then you will have double problems with the control of the vacuum pressure. Do not buy this type of system unless you either plan on changing the waste filter and emptying the waste container after every treatment, or you are not concerned about the quality and level of service you provide to your clients. If the manufacturer tells you to clean the waste filter by brushing it off, you will not actually clean it. The skin oils that are trapped in the pores of the waste filter cannot be brushed off and can only be reduced by utilizing a soaking solvent. Brushing will not be sufficient. Replacing the waste filter after each treatment is the best option if your system gauge and vacuum adjust is not designed properly, but that would drastically lower your profit margin. If, when you performed this last test, the needle on the gauge did not move and adjusting the vacuum pressure valve did not have and effect, then the machine could be a good design and you should do this last test. Reconnect the waste container and turn the system on. Adjust the vacuum pressure to maximum, occlude the handset cap, the needle on the gauge should move, indicating that the gauge is measuring the pressure in the handset tubing and handset cap, which is what you want. Rotate the vacuum pressure adjust from minimum to maximum and correlate this movement with the vacuum gauge. This is one of the features that your system must have in order for you to have a chance at being successful in this business! Does the system clog and how much maintenance and cleaning is required? Many of the systems available on the current market clog on a regular basis and require after treatment maintenance. The vast majority of the systems available just 2 or 3 years ago were very hard to work with because of this problem. Contact the manufacturer and get the cleaning and maintenance requirement in writing. Some manufacturers say that clogging is an operator issue (they will say the system is not maintained properly) so the manufacturer charges for clogging repairs even though the system is still under warranty. Make sure you know what is considered to be your responsibility before you buy. At a minimum, the operator/owner pays for the shipping to and from the manufacturer, which can be hundreds of dollars and take from one week to one month to repair (a long time to be without your source of income). There are now systems available that rarely or never clog and require very little maintenance. Make sure the system you purchase does not clog, and if possible, get the promise of a no clog performance in writing. If a system does not require any regular cleaning procedures and still will not clog, that is ideal. Some of the poorly made systems require that you send your system in to the factory for a “tune up” on an annual or semi annual basis (not covered by most warranties). The higher quality systems can be easily maintained by the operator, at their site, and do not require a trip to the factory. Try to find a system that recommends operator maintenance only on a monthly or, better yet, quarterly basis and determine what are the items, time and costs associated with that maintenance schedule. Make sure you are not required to clean the waste filters, just dispose of them and replace them. Some manufacturers recommend cleaning a dirty waste filter by blasting it with compressed air. Cleaning a waste filter in that manner exposes you and your clients to numerous and unnecessary health risks by sending millions of contaminated particles into the surrounding environment. Also, remember that this filter in the waste container area will be collecting skin debris including oils. These particles will block the filter and negatively affect the pressure in the handset, which will reduce the abrasion level. The only way to clean these particles from such a filter is to use a solvent, otherwise the oils will remain in the pores of the filter. Just shaking the filter, brushing it off or blasting it with air (a very bad idea) will not remove any of the oils and will reduce and eventually eliminate the pressure in the handset. Such a system will lose abrasion power gradually and, unless the gauge measures the handset pressure, you will have no idea what level of abrasion you are applying to your client’s skin, making it virtually impossible to deliver a treatment that is reproducible. You would be much better off, in terms of performance, by throwing away and replacing that filter on a very regular basis, but the costs may be prohibitive. Make sure you know what the manufacturer recommends for cleaning/maintenance and keep in mind that just cleaning a waste filter (as opposed to replacing one) will adversely affect your ability to deliver a good treatment. Low or Maintenance-Free Claims Be aware that there is no way any microdermabrasion system can be maintenance free. The system performs a sandblasting treatment on skin. This means there will be crystals, skin particles and oil residue being vacuumed into the waste area. If these particles, especially the crystals, get into the motor, the motor will lose pressure and in a worst case seize up within seconds. Crystals are extremely hard and very abrasive so there has to be a filter that collects the waste particles and stops them from getting past the waste system and into the motor. Every machine has a filter somewhere in the system to perform this function. As we mentioned in the previous section, over time, this filter will get completely covered and will restrict the vacuum pressure to the point where there will be no power remaining in the handset to perform the treatment. And, depending on the design, this filter cam be filled or clogged in as few as one or two treatments. This means that you, the operator, are required to clean or replace this filter as needed. The only systems that don’t require the operator to perform this procedure are the systems that have a disposable waste container because this type of container has the filter built in and it is thrown away with the waste. If a manufacturer claims their system is maintenance free and they do not have a disposable waste container, they must have their own definitions of the word “maintenance” and what they consider to be “operating procedures”. They are trying to mislead you. Cleaning and or replacing the filter is maintenance: It is something that has to be done in order for the system to operate. Also, unless you clean the filter with some type of solvent, the oil will build up over time, block the vacuum pressure and negatively effect the treatment. This cannot be avoided. That means you are slowly degrading the effectiveness of your treatments when you continually clean a filter instead of installing a new one. This is not of a great concern if the system is properly designed and the gauge accurately measures the treatment pressure, the problem is, in almost every system on the market, the system’s pressure gauge is not connected correctly and you will have no idea you are delivering a sub-standard treatment (see the section in this information titled “Pressure Gauge”). Avoid any company that claims their system is maintenance free or has a lifetime warranty. It is just part of a sales pitch that is filled with false information and false promises. Recommendations by other Skin Care Professionals When asking for recommendations from experienced skin care professionals who own microdermabrasion systems, make sure they know as much as you should know about how a system should work. You may discover that they are completely unaware of their system's inability to even produce an abrasion. Have them give you a treatment, pay attention to everything they do, ask questions and test their system (see Tests for more information). When discussing cleaning and maintenance, find out what is required to achieve clog free operation of the system they recommend. A skin care professional that has been in the business for any length of time may have the opinion all microdermabrasion systems have clogging, cleaning and maintenance issues and may not think it is important to tell you what is involved. Keep in mind that some people will defend their purchase because they don't like to admit they made a mistake. Or, they may not know they made a mistake. Doctors, for the most part, are very intelligent individuals, but they are not engineers and can make mistakes too. They may have bought their system based only on a recommendation and may have never even used it (they may have an aesthetician or technician who operates it). Also, a recommendation by another individual may be driven by other factors, such as referral fees or other incentives. If it is someone you know and trust, the recommendation has more weight. Don’t be lazy and just take someone’s recommendation, you must do your own evaluation. After weighing all information, you can have the confidence that you know as much or more about how to evaluate a microdermabrasion system than the majority of skin care professionals. You may just lack the actual experience. Trust yourself and do the investigation. Don't base your decision solely on a recommendation. Will the System operate with different types of abrasive "crystal" product? At the present time, Corundum (Aluminum Oxide) is the most widely used and most abrasive material for microdermabrasion procedures. There are four reasons why corundum is used primarily throughout the microdermabrasion industry: 1) The product is widely available (it is a naturally occurring crystal and very abundant in the earth’s surface) 2) It is an inert crystal and non-toxic 3) It is the second hardest crystal (after diamonds) and since it is a crystal it has multiple sharp edges for abrasive contact. It is a colorless sapphire. 4) The crystal of corundum is impervious to moisture (does not absorb liquid) and therefore has no systemic reactions with bodily fluid. The two other materials that are also predominately used in microdermabrasion procedures are Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda) and Salt. Both of these materials are of a crystal structure and both work quite well as the abrasive. Neither of these materials is as hard as corundum (aluminum oxide) nor do the materials have the mass (weight per particle) of corundum. Therefore, neither material will have the abrasive power of corundum because of the softer edges of the crystal and the lower kinetic energy per particle. The advantage to using either of these types is in the case of abrading into a fluid area, the crystal particles will dissolve in a very short period of time. Physicians primarily use Sodium Bicarbonate for scar revision microdermabrasion procedures and for active acne treatments. Regardless of the material selected as the medium for microdermabrasion, the abrasive material needs to be manufactured and sealed in pre-measured packages to insure purity and quality of the product. Pouring crystals from a large jar or bag that will be opened multiple times (and exposed to room air and possible contaminants) is not the best idea. Is Corundum (Aluminum Oxide) Safe to Use? Corundum (Aluminum Oxide) is not an unsafe material, as some will lead you to believe; in fact, it is the only FDA approved abrasive for microdermabrasion. Corundum is an inert, naturally occurring substance and is a crystal, not a metal. Some people claim aluminum oxide has been linked to Alzheimer’s disease, which is totally false and merely shows the ignorance of some manufacturers or their representatives. A short course in chemistry at the local junior college would be very beneficial for them. As a point of fact, the material used in dentistry to polish the teeth after cleaning is a fine corundum abrasive, mixed with a pleasant tasting paste, and is approved by the FDA for that procedure. Find out for yourself; do a search on the web by typing in “dental polish aluminum oxide” and you will find numerous dental supply companies that offer an aluminum oxide based dental polish. Corundum, as an individual item, has never been linked to any medical condition in any study performed by any of the research laboratories, not just in the U.S. but also in Europe. (If you know of a study as such, please forward the web link to us.) There was a study that was published in the American Journal of Industrial Medicine linking metal particle and aluminum dust inhalation to a lung condition but the resulting report was not clear about what the examination determined regarding 'aluminum oxide' individually as opposed to the aluminum metal particles the subjects inhaled. It is also very narrow because it was a very small number of industrial workers (14 total workers and the report actually contains the phrase “6 Heavily Exposed Workers...”) who inhaled aluminum metal particles and aluminum dust while performing industrial work, not aesthetic microdermabrasion. Now, keep in mind that metal particles will not remain suspended in the air permanently even if they are extremely small specks like dust. That is the same for Aluminum Oxide particles. Aluminum Oxide dust will not perform a sandblasting job because those particles have no mass so the dust must have been created by the crystals colliding with a very hard target causing the crystals to fracture into smaller particles. Although the report does not state the obvious, the industrial workers were probably performing industrial sandblasting of metal objects and most likely were not wearing any protective breathing gear. Based on this report, your chances of developing a lung disease from the use of Aluminum Oxide during microdermabrasion treatments is about the same as getting “miner’s lung” or black lung from charcoal barbecuing in your backyard. Regardless of the safety, or claimed lack thereof, of Aluminum Oxide, a microdermabrasion (and crystal-free dermabrasion) operator should wear a breathing mask because of the close contact with the other person, the client receiving the treatment, and the possibility of interpersonal contamination. The same thing can be said of wearing protective gloves and a gown. The chances of having airborne contaminates in the air, during a treatment, using a vacuum powered microdermabrasion machine is almost zero. This cannot be said of the procedure crystalless dermabrasion. The other health concerns come from inferior crystal media that is not properly sized because this will contain fine powdery dust, smaller than 20 microns, that when emptied into wastebaskets or purged from clogged systems, can possibly create a small amount of airborne contaminants and could be irritating to both client and technician. A good quality microdermabrasion system, with the proper design that utilizes properly sized corundum (100 micron) crystals will not clog and if it utilizes a disposable waste container will not emit any airborne particles at all. How should you evaluate the cost of crystals and operating costs? Many skin care professionals believe that one of the biggest factors in evaluating the purchase of a system is the cost of the crystals and supplies. Before you can make an educated decision regarding this point, you need to first focus on a system's performance in relation to the consumption of crystals. Many systems use a large amount of crystal per treatment; even buying the least expensive crystal available will still leave you with a high per treatment cost if you own such a system. And that system will not deliver an effective abrasion. Remember that you are attempting to “sandblast” the skin and the only way to efficiently achieve that goal is for the incoming crystals to have an unimpeded direct path to the skin. Only the crystals that are directly striking the skin at the optimal angle of attack will cause an abrasion. Any crystal that is colliding with another crystal or hitting the skin at a sloughing angle will not optimally abrade the skin. If a system produces a large amount of crystals lying on the skin, on the patients gown or swirling about in the handset cap, will not provide an effective abrasion and will be very expensive to operate. Next, you need to consider this: contrary to the claims of many crystal suppliers in the market and on the Internet, there is a difference between one grade of crystal and another. If you buy crystals that are properly sized and air sifted to remove the dust particles, your system will perform at a higher level for a longer period of time and you will deliver consistent treatments (as opposed to using lower grade supplies). The low grade crystals are not sized to within a reasonable tolerance: many low grade crystals may claim to be 100 microns but 60% are actually between 50 and 150 microns in size and the remaining 40% is outside of all tolerance. Inconsistent size of crystals will deliver an inconsistent treatment and in some cases will not perform any treatment at all. Inferior crystals may also include a lot of dust. Dust will not do any abrasion at all: only particles of sufficient mass can generate the kinetic energy to perform an abrasion. Dust will also create performance problems in your system and is a prime source of lattice structure issues in the crystal injection system. The dust will accumulate with oil and skin particles and then attach itself to internal surfaces of the machine (much like plaque will collect on blood vessel walls) and eventually clog the waste system. Low-grade crystals in connection with a poorly designed machine cause many of the clogging problems currently faced by system operators/owners. The use of these crystals in a poorly designed system will also result in a large amount of time spent on cleaning. Do not forget to consider the cost of your time when shopping for a system and a crystal supplier, usually the best supplier is the manufacturer of the machine or someone they recommend. There are also the maintenance costs (filters and other replacement parts) to consider and, again, your time spent performing those duties. A low cost crystal is no guarantee that you will have a low per treatment cost. If your system uses too much crystal per treatment, requires you to spend time cleaning it at least once a week (some have to be cleaned every day, some after every treatment), and you spend a fair amount of money on replacement parts for the maintenance of the system, you could have a very high per treatment cost. The point of this section is: Do not just focus on the cost per pound of crystals. It is far more important to know the total cost per treatment. If you can buy a system that uses a conservative amount of crystals per treatment and doesn’t require constant cleaning and maintenance, you can afford to use a higher grade of supplies, which will give you a reasonable cost per treatment and will create fewer problems for you in the long run. Remember to speak about these issues with the manufacturer of your choice. What about "Natural" Material or "Non-Crystal" Microdermabraders? Don't be sold a sales pitch that is based on false information. First of all, corundum is natural, is not dangerous, as some of the companies who sell the crystal free or natural crystal systems will falsely claim. The claim that corundum/aluminum oxide will cause Alzheimer’s or that it will cause a lung disease is false. The companies and people that make those statements are either uninformed or reciting what they have heard or they are trying to mislead you. (See the previous section on the safety of corundum.) One of the other claims is that crystals "get everywhere" during a treatment. Well designed systems available on the market do not have this problem, poorly designed systems naturally do. There is no material available that is as effective as corundum, but you should choose a system that can use any type of inert abrasive crystal. If you have been told you need to be offering a "natural" material (corundum is completely natural), as is baking soda and salt. Organic crystals are not a good choice for any abrasion on the body. Organic means that the product was alive with a cell structure at one time. Therefore the product has a cell structure that is in a dormant state. If one of the particles of this product is left in the tissue of a patient, the patient's bodily fluid will mix with this cell structure and we will have an adverse rejection reaction because the body does not like foreign cells inside of its space. Have you ever had a sliver in your finger? Same story! Do not use Organic Crystals to do microdermabrasion or any other type of abrasion or scrubbing on your or other peoples bodies. Think!! The "non-crystal" approach to dermabrasion is early 1900's technology presented in a new way. Of course it has been presented many ways since the days of ancient Egypt when it was just sand and someone scrubbing your body. You are performing a manual scrubbing of the skin by means of a tool that has an abrasive material (read corundum or Aluminum Oxide), similar to sandpaper, or a sintered metal system, affixed to it. Cleaning all the skin particles and debris from the crevices in the abrasive material at the end of the handtool is almost nearly impossible. Also, the amount of pressure you apply to the skin with the handset greatly affects the treatment outcome. Abrading an area that is backed by a bone structure will increase the abrasion and may cause fine striation cuts in the skin, especially when an aggressive handset tip is used (such as a medical or coarse handset tip). The “medical or coarse” handset tips have larger bits of abrasive material which protrude from the handset and will cause deeper cuts in the skin, especially at more aggressive treatment levels. Training and technique is extremely critical for a non-crystal system. The pressure applied by the operator, the coarseness of the tool and the structure beneath the tissue are the gating factors of the treatment to the skin. The simple test for this evaluation point is, if you can perform an abrasion of the skin with the machine turned off, do not buy that system. An operator is not as precise as a machine and does not have the ability to accurately control the pressure they are applying with their hand. Delivering an inconsistent or possibly damaging treatment is highly likely. Only purchase a system that completely controls the abrasion treatment and one that cannot perform an abrasion unless the system is turned on. Remember according to almost all state regulations and the US FDA only doctors are allowed to break the papillary (blood) barrier of the skin. Estheticians will lose their license and be prosecuted for this offence. Be Very, Very Careful. Some of the non-crystal manufacturers claim their technology has been proven superior in a clinical study. Keep in mind this fact: There have never been any independent clinical studies performed by any independent evaluator that included the major manufacturers of both crystal and non-crystal technology. All claims, as such, are made by dishonest and misleading individual manufacturers without true, un-biased, comprehensive, clinical studies. Some manufacturers may have done a comparison in the confines of their own private shop using someone’s homemade machine, but you can be assured they did not compare their system with anything from the industry let alone the best of the industry in a clinical setting. The ideal situation would be where all manufacturers contributed money and equipment to an independent clinic for scientific evaluations of the results of all machines. That evaluation has never happened and it never will because most of the manufacturers are not interested in building a great machine, they are interested in your capital investment and their profit margin only. So it is up to you to learn as much as possible about how to protect your investment by being and educated buyer and purchasing wisely. **Some manufacturers also claim their system will abrade up to xx microns deep. That is a ridiculous claim. The level or depth of an abrasion is dictated by the power setting of the system, the amount of time the beam of crystals is aimed at the target area (with a crystal machine) and, in the case of a non-crystal system, how hard the operator presses on the skin and how many passes are made with the handset. It is something that is impossible to quantify.** Also, "Micro-dermabrasion" is defined as an abrasion of the skin performed by the application of a directed beam of abrasive ’micro’ particles. If you purchase a system that operates in a non-crystal mode only, you should not be promoting and advertising those services as ‘micro-dermabrasion’ because that type of system performs a “dermabrasion” treatment no different from the treatments performed in the 1900s. If you are evaluating a non-crystal system, have the manufacturer state in writing whether that system is considered to be a “micro-dermabrasion” or a “dermabrasion” system and how are you allowed to advertise and promote this service. Get that in writing. Correctly promoting the non-crystal services as a dermabrasion treatment may greatly reduce your potential clientele and may limit your income. The vast majority of the people who regularly purchase skin treatments are familiar with the term "micro-dermabrasion". There are microdermabrasion systems that perform both non-crystal and crystal treatments. Don’t limit your potential by buying a non-crystal only system. Is the device FDA Approved? Microdermabrasion systems are all considered a Class I Medical Device and do not need to be individually FDA approved. The FDA has approved the microdermabrasion procedure, not individual units. There are numerous companies that manufacture microdermabrasion machines, and of those companies, very few are currently registered with the FDA. Any company who is serious about staying in this business will be registered with the FDA and follow all of the guidelines required to track and control the quality and functionality of each unit. You take your skin care business seriously; your equipment manufacturer should be making the same type of commitment. "Medical Grade" Systems Many physicians have the opinion they should only be evaluating and purchasing microdermabrasion systems that are classified as "medical grade". However, the buyers of medical grade systems must be aware that no agency or organization, including the FDA, has anything to do with this classification. All medical grade systems are designated, and marketed, as such by the manufacturers themselves. Target marketing to a specific group, with a large portion of that group convinced they need a system with that classification, allows for a higher sales price. In many cases, it is strictly a marketing tool and very misleading. In some cases, a manufacturer will put a different label and/or chassis on their medical model and raise the price tag by thousands of dollars. Many of the medical grade systems currently on the market lack features that probably would be required to qualify the system as a medical device (if there were such regulations put in place by the FDA). A micro-dermabrasion system that is intended to be used for medical treatments (such as scar revision) must be properly designed and equipped to safely penetrate to the fluid (blood) level if necessary without comprising the integrity of the machine. The suggested minimum requirements would be: 1. An air intake system that will eliminate all possible contaminates from entering the clean crystals and air stream, which may be making contact with an open wound. Any system that cannot operate under high humidity or moisture does not meet this requirement (some “medical” systems cannot be operated in the same room as a steam machine because it cannot filter out the water molecules... how can it filter out much smaller, viral molecules?) 2. The capability to handle tissue that is moist or wet. Any system that requires the operator to thoroughly dry the area to be abraded before the treatment (or it may clog) is not able to handle any fluids so therefore cannot handle blood or other fluids that may be involved in a scar revision treatment 3. Disposable or autoclavable handset and handset tips 4. Sealed and disposable waste container. Since blood may be a part of the waste, it is a biohazard, by the way so is skin debris, and should be treated as such (some systems require the operator to pour the waste crystals from the waste container into a trashcan or other waste receptacle, the debris that is generated in this process is a biohazard) 5. Disposable waste filters (some systems require that the operator clean the waste filter on a regular or daily basis by removing the filter and blasting it with compressed air, which creates a potential biohazard for more than just the immediate area) 6. Must be able to utilize all types of crystal material. If there will be an open wound, the crystal material must be fluid soluble, such as sodium bicarbonate, so the particles will dissolve when in contact with fluids. Aluminum Oxide will not dissolve and will cause granulomas to form when driven into an open wound. Many of the "medical grade" systems cannot be operated at or even near their highest settings. The manufacturers of those systems will claim that power is the reason for the classification. That is partially true. Owners of those systems must be aware of its potential to cause damage and make sure their operators have the proper training and background. The whole truth is, not only does it have an excessive amount of power, there is almost a total lack of control. The operator cannot properly control the system’s abrasion and/or vacuum, which is multiplied when performing medical level treatments. The majority of these systems have an abrasion pattern that is so concentrated the system will produce a small hole up to 5 pages deep within 2 seconds when performing the magazine test (see the Magazine Test). If the abrasion pattern were large and even, this would be an amazing machine. The problem is, most of the systems with such concentrated abrasion patterns produce a piercing hole that is not much bigger than the size of a pinhead. That type of abrasion pattern can only cause damage, with no medical benefit whatsoever. In addition to a small abrasion pattern, many “medical grade” systems have a problem with vacuum pressure control. At higher settings, these systems will allow the vacuum pressure to build in the handset cap and on the patient’s skin to the point where capillaries are ruptured. Since the classification of a system as a medical grade device is determined by the manufacturer, a potential buyer must do their own research to confirm whether a system has the qualifications to safely and effectively perform a medical treatment. Do not assume that any system will be more effective than another just because of its classification. You will find that many of the “medical grade” systems will not meet even obvious minimum requirements and some "esthetic" models will pleasantly surprise you (and your budget). Does it have the proper Air Stream filters? This is a concern for all operators of the system, from estheticians to physicians. If the manufacturer recommends that you do not operate their system near or in the same room as a steam machine or a wax pot, do not buy that system. That recommendation by the manufacturer indicates they do not have a filter that can remove the moisture or wax molecules from the incoming air. The results will be clumping of crystals and clogging of the system. The first reason to avoid such a system is that it clogs too easily. At the least, you are limited in where you can operate the system or what other equipment can occupy the same room. At worst, if you are a physician and break into a fluid area, you may be introducing possible viral contaminates. You have to consider the fact that water molecules are much larger than viral molecules so a system that cannot filter out moisture is useless (or a liability) in a medical situation. The possibility of cross contamination is extremely high. With a flawed system such as this, the operator would be driving dirty air and crystals onto the surface of freshly abraded skin. In the case of a physician performing a scar revision treatment (and the possible situation of an esthetician inadvertently abrading an acne breakout area), the operator would be introducing contaminates into an open wound. A system that does not have the proper filtering to control moisture intake should never be used in any type of medical microdermabrasion treatment and should not be classified as a "medical" unit. Any serious medical system manufacturer could easily make the changes and install the proper filters. The parameters for incoming air filters on a microdermabrasion system should be less than .1 microns. There are systems that have filters as fine as .01 microns. Do you have to completely dry the area before abrading? If the manufacturer recommends that you completely dry the area you plan on abrading, you need to consider this information. This may not be of great concern to an esthetician because drying of the skin is just one more step and the manufacturer recommends this because the extra moisture may cause the system to clog. (Although, that is a major flaw and the possibilities should be of great concern to the buyer; it means this type of system will clog.) But this is not acceptable for a physician. The physician may be performing treatments that reach into the fluid barrier and, if a system cannot handle moisture, that system is useless. A physician, on occasion, will have clients that require more than just a superficial treatment and the system must be able to handle moisture; whether that is blood or other fluids. Microdermabrasion Treatments with Chemical Peels Some microdermabrasion system manufacturers recommend performing a chemical peel in conjunction with a microdermabrasion treatment. Microdermabrasion treatments, glycolic acid peels, alpha hdroxy acid peels, enzyme peels, etc. all perform an exfoliation. Would you give your client a glycolic peel and immediately follow it with an alpha hydroxy peel or vice versa? Most likely not. If a microdermabrasion system manufacturer recommends that you begin (or follow) a treatment on their system with a chemical peel, you can be reasonably certain their microdermabrasion system does not perform an effective exfoliation treatment on its own. Think about this, a good microdermabrasion machine, with a properly trained operator, will physically remove around 25% to 35% of the stratum corneum as well as the oxidized lipid that holds the cells together in one treatment. This is equivalent to a 70% Glycolic Acid Peel, only with immediate results. After the microdermabrasion treatment the new skin cells and the new lipid structure is exposed to the environment. If an acid peel is now applied to the tissue how will you know what is going to happen with any strength of acid? Acid treatments are normally administered to skin with the environmental barrier intact not removed. Should an esthetician do an acid peel immediately following a good microdermabrasion treatment? No, I do not think so, to do so would be extremely foolish until you become very familiar with the patient and the microdermabrasion machine you use on a regular basis. What about systems that use Vitamin C Crystals or Oxygen? First ask yourself, how does either of these features work and can they truly be a benefit to my clients? Yes, you can charge more for the treatments because of these supposedly added features, but are you improving your services or just selling your clients (or being sold by the equipment sales rep)? This is a question of ethics. We all know that Corundum crystals are impervious to moisture, period. How do we infuse Vitamin C, a water based vitamin, into a crystal that is impervious to moisture? We can not. Or could we use actual Vitamin C in a crystal form? Either way lets do some theorizing. But just for the sake of argument let us assume we can. Now we will load these special crystals into the microdermabrasion machine and give our customer an abrasion treatment with these vitamin C infused crystals (?), or actual Vitamin C crystals (very expensive) Let us look at this issue in the best light. In the process of abrading the tissue with the crystals each crystal will impact the tissue one time and remove some tissue cells and then the particle and the tissue cells are immediately evacuated into the waste system. Another particle will impact the same or an adjacent area and remove more tissue cells and again be evacuated into the waste system. This continues ad infinitum until the treatment is over. Now the question is "as each particle impacted the tissue and removed cells, how much of the Vitamin C was left on the remaining new tissue of the patient? After all, the only Vitamin C that will do any good is the Vitiman C that stayed with the host the Vitamin C that went to the waste system is of no value. Each time the C particle hit the tissue it transferred C to the cell then tore the cell off the tissue and sent it to the waste system. At the end of the treatment what is the net value of Vitamin C increase on the remaining abraded tissue. My thought is close to none! This is a waste of time and effort. Do the microdermabrasion treatment and hydrate the patient then apply a real nice Esther C Moisturizer directly to the newly abraded tissue. Now all of the Vitamin C goes into the Tissue for maximum benefit. If you are evaluating a system that utilizes Vitamin C crystals or any other similar variation of crystal, consider this. How are you delivering the Vitamin C (or other additive) to your client’s skin in a way that will cause additional actual benefits? If the crystals are Vitamin C (crushed to the proper size) remember that it is not nearly as effective an abrasive material as corundum (see the section on “Will the system operate with different types of crystal product?”). The other way to deliver Vitamin C with a microdermabrasion system is to soak the corundum crystals in a Vitamin C liquid and allow them to dry (corundum is impervious to water so the crystals will not absorb the Vitamin C, it will just dry on the outside of each crystal). Either way, the system will be delivering the crystal to the skin at a high velocity, colliding with the tissue and the Vitamin C will be vacuumed away along with the debris. There may be some crystal left on the skin but, unless the system is poorly designed and leaves a large amount of crystal behind, the vast majority of the Vitamin C will end up in the waste container. If the technique is to then apply a wet towel to the skin (that has residual crystals lying on it) in the hope that the water will liquefy the Vitamin C and deliver it to the dermis, stop right there. Will your client’s skin absorb water molecules that have Vitamin C molecules attached to it? That is a pretty large particle to get into the organ that is designed to protect you. If water is able to deliver an ingredient or nutrient to the underlying layers of the skin, why do formulators and cosmetic companies spend so much effort, money and time developing micronized carrier solutions? You would be much better off applying a nutrient rich formula, designed to penetrate and deliver what is needed, to the freshly abraded skin after the microdermabrasion treatment is finished (which is probably what you will do as a final step in the treatment anyway). If you are evaluating a system that delivers an oxygen treatment, either as a stand-alone system or integrated with a microdermabrasion system, consider this. How does the system produce the oxygen? If it has a tank that you must refill with oxygen, then it has the capability to deliver the gas to the client’s skin. If it doesn’t have an oxygen tank, where is the oxygen coming from? The room air contains oxygen so, technically, you can just fan some air over your client and you are delivering oxygen to their skin (along with all the other gases that make up the room air). That is exactly what some of these “oxygen” systems do: room air is pulled in by the vacuum motor, passed over a reservoir of some type of liquid (Vitamin C or E, etc.) which is drawn up into the air stream (just like the fertilizer jars you can attach to your garden hose) and the liquid in the air makes it feel cool and refreshing when sprayed on your client’s face. The concentration of oxygen is equal to the room air. It would be much more cost effective for you to buy a $1.00 spray bottle, fill it with your favorite Vitamin C formula and spritz your clients. There are some skin care professionals who use systems with oxygen tanks that believe the application of oxygen to the skin truly makes a remarkable difference. Before you spend your money on a combination microdermabrasion/oxygen system, consider the fact that if one function breaks down, you don’t have either function. Evaluate the components separately to determine the overall effectiveness. FYI: Most scientists believe the only way for a person’s skin to actually absorb oxygen is to place the individual in a hyperbaric chamber. What about the companies that offer "Diamond" crystals or "Diamond Shaped" crystals? Real diamond crystals would be very expensive and wouldn't add any benefit to a treatment as compared to corundum crystals. If the crystals were truly diamond particles, you could not possibly afford to buy them and compete in the microdermabrasion treatment marketplace. As for "Diamond shaped" crystals, corundum crystals are faceted just like diamonds because both corundum and diamonds are a form of crystal. If anyone tells you they are specially shaped, you should not believe them (or trust them): next time you examine corundum crystals, ask yourself how difficult it would be (and what specialized and expensive equipment is required) to precisely shape those tiny particles. And this precise procedure is done on billions of these particles? All crystals are crushed by machinery in a random manner and then sorted by size. There are no specially made "diamond shaped" crystals: they are just corundum crystals presented in a way to sound unique. Beware of companies that try to sell their products based on false information. And, by the way corundum (Aluminum Oxide) is actually a sapphire on the gemstone hardness scale. What about the look of the system and marketing materials? A pretty colored system may fit well in the overall décor of your spa, but remember that your clients may only see it when they walk in and out of your room. They will either have their eyes closed or covered during the majority of the time they are with you. Also, very few individuals outside of the skin care profession are familiar with either a company name or logo. And lastly, having a complete marketing plan with 4-color brochures and other collateral is good, but this should be one of the last items to check off your list. These items should not be a sole determining factor. None of these features will turn a first time customer into a repeat customer. A customer may be impressed with the look of your system, the slick look of your marketing brochures and the cute logo in the beginning, but will stop coming if they don't get results. Your best source of advertising will be satisfied customers who have a noticeable immediate improvement of their skin. They are your walking and talking billboards. Friends, family and maybe even strangers will ask them what they did to their skin and your customer will be more than happy to tell those people all about you and your wonderful machine. Customers probably won't remember the color of your machine or what its logo looked like or what brand it is. They may come to your business because of the brochures, but if the system doesn’t deliver, they will not come back. Remember that every customer is a potential source of advertising but, based on a customer's experience with inferior services, how they talk about your business may not be positive. That is not the kind of advertising any business can survive on. Lifetime Warranties There are many options out there in terms of warranties. System manufacturers will warranty their machines for 1 year up to lifetime, but most provide at least a 2-year warranty. There are a few that offer options to purchase extended warranties when the original warranty expires. The life expectancy of any system is based on the vacuum motor inside the microdermabrasion system. The microdermabrasion system manufacturer does not make the motor. The motor manufacturer rates the life expectancy of their vacuum motor by listing its MTBF (Mean Time Between Failures) specifications. A quality motor will be rated at 12,000 hours MTBF, which means it should operate approximately 12,000 hours before it fails. That length of time is equal to performing 20 treatments a day, 5 days a week, for 10 years. At such a pace, you will be worn out before the motor fails! The reality is, the vast majority of system owners will not keep or use their system long enough to test the accuracy of the motor’s MTBF rating. So, why are there so many used systems available on Internet auction sites? You would hope that the motors in those systems are still working. Why would anyone dump an expensive piece of equipment, at a loss, if it still works and is bringing profit to a business? The motor is the only moving part in a microdermabrasion system and very few motors fail. Most system problems are due to clogging or loss of vacuum pressure. Manufacturers, for the most part, do not cover clogging problems in their warranty. That is a maintenance issue and the manufacturer will say the operator is to blame, so the repairs will have to be paid for by the owner. System owners sell their machines at a loss because they are tired of the problems associated with a poor design, not a failed or failing motor. Regardless of what the motor MTBF specifications are, it is a mechanical device with moving parts and it will eventually wear out. There are limits to what a manufacturer can promise, within reason, when they are selling a mechanical device. Any microdermabrasion system manufacturer who offers a lifetime warranty is doing it to increase sales now, and will worry about the consequences later. It is a marketing plan with the intent of diverting your attention from what really matters; which is, how effective the machine performs. There is no possible way for any company, regardless of their financial strength, to sell a mechanical device under a lifetime warranty and budget for the day when those systems start to fail. They may be able to pay for the repairs of some of the first systems that fail but, as more systems fail, the major shareholders and/or owners will not want to continually dip into their pockets to cover this cost. They will choose to close the company instead. And, if the design is not tried and tested, the failures and/or problems may start happening very early on and the company will fold sooner, rather than later. After evaluating the performance of a number of systems you are considering, the true test of whether the length of the warranty should be a major factor when choosing one machine over another is to determine how long each company has been in existence. Do not judge a company on how long they claim to have been designing and working on their system, but how long has the company been selling their design and how long has that design has been on the market, under real-world conditions. Check the PTO (Patent and Trademark Office) to see when they applied for their patent; keep in mind that a patent application is done before the item goes into the marketplace. Get a list of referrals and find out how long they have owned their system. What value is any warranty if the manufacturer does not stay in business long enough to support it? Also, if that same company makes other impossible claims, (like maintenance free) you must use caution when dealing with them. Make sure any system you are evaluating has a sound design and is effective before you weigh such factors as the warranty. Trade In and Buy-Back Policies Most manufacturers offer some type of trade in policy if you wish to upgrade your system during the life of the warranty. Some offer a small percentage, very few offer a major percentage, and fewer yet offer a 100% trade in policy. Rarely does a company offer any type of buy-back policy; most manufacturers will not offer to buy your system back from you at any price unless you are buying a new machine from them. It sounds logical since that would mean they make less money on the sale of the used machine where they could have sold a new one and made a higher profit. They are looking out for their bottom line, not their customers needs. Find out if the company you are considering offers any type of trade in and buy back policy. This will tell you how confident they are in their design and how much they value their customers. If they offer a high trade in value and/or will assist you in re-selling your used system to one of their new customers, they are a company that knows their design is reliable and trouble free and they also really care about their customers. Attention Physicians and Salon/Spa Owners: Referral Fees can be a Concern Most manufacturers offer a referral fee for leads that result in the sale of their equipment. This is a common practice and has the potential to generate sales for the organization. It also has the potential to be abused. Many sales people in the medical equipment business are actually distributors and own the products they are selling. They purchase the items from the manufacturer at a great discount off of list price, sell the item at or around list and pocket the difference. For example: an equipment manufacturer lists their systems at just under $10,000 and sells it to their distributors for $4,500. The distributor is encouraged to use a portion of that large profit margin to ensure the sale by paying commissions, referral fees and/or finders fees. There is a possibility that a referral fee could be substantial ($1,000, $2,000 or more per system sold) and has the power to cloud someone's judgment. The purchaser may not need to worry about this if the person that generated the lead and being paid the referral fee is an outside individual. But if an employee is generating the referral AND evaluating the equipment, there could be a major conflict of interest. Regardless, this could be a concern if the physician or salon/spa owner is not involved, at some level, in the evaluation of the system. The actual purchaser should be familiar with the equipment and make certain it will produce acceptable results based on their own investigation and determination of what features are important. Concluding Remarks This information has been an attempt to provide you with an unbiased review of the Microdermabrasion marketplace. There is a lot of misleading information on this subject and the treatment results that you can expect. To a large extent, the success you have will be based on team concept. Having the right machine is necessary but having a knowledgeable and skilled technician/esthetician that has the ability to communicate with their clients and who has a thorough understanding of what happens to the skin during microdermabrasion is equally as important. Post procedure care with appropriate skin care products is also important. To that extent, make sure you do your homework and follow up on the information given to you after any sales demonstration. The only way to really get a feel of how the machine works is by using it yourself; if you don’t have clients, use a magazine as the patient. Don’t assume that what a salesperson says is what will really happen when it comes time to do procedures. BE CAREFUL, IT IS YOUR CAPITAL INVESTMENT. Call several sources that currently own and use the microdermabrasion machine being considered. When you do, ask to speak directly to the technician that uses it on a routine basis. See what qualifications they used in deciding on the unit they have. Some have really never researched the marketplace; they have only gone on the recommendation of a friend or fellow physician who may not even use the machine. Also keep in mind that the technician you speak with may be under the false notion that all microdermabrasion systems clog and need some repair work on a regular basis so they may not inform you of the effort required to keep it working. You can find one that is clog free and requires very little cleaning or maintenance. Be careful and don’t assume that the physician who owns the machine knows anything about it, other than it is bringing revenue to their office. Most physicians are so busy they don’t have time to spend on selecting the machine; they left it up to the person who was going to do the procedures. Again, ask them what they based their decisions on and compare it to what you have seen yourself. When you have narrowed your decision down to 2 or 3 different units, ask them to do a head-to-head evaluation at the same time in your office. You might be surprised at the number of companies that will balk at this request. Having the units side by side is a great way to compare features like ease of use and daily service, actual abrasion, messiness etc. Many system owners have purchased their microdermabrasion system on factors other than the overall quality and performance of the unit. They were more interested in purchasing a name brand or the marketing program the company offered. Don’t let us mislead you, these things have to be taken into consideration, but in the end you will wish you had bought on performance and reliability. If you have further questions or would like to comment on this tutorial please feel free to call me at 877-550-5655 or contact me on the web at 'al@bellaproducts.com.' Al Metcalf, President Bella Products Inc.