Phyllis Tortora, Keith Eubank. Survey of Historic Costume
Fairchild Publications, 1994, p. 486-501
(Second Edition). New York:
Costume Components for Men: 1974-1990
The so-called Peacock Revolution focused attention on men’s clothing and the menswear
industry. Men, like women, had more choices, and fashion segmentation increased. Men who
needed to dress conservatively for business could still do so, but the men’s suit industry declined,
and separates became more important for men as well as for women. The innovations in men’s
clothing seemed to come from an emphasis on a more casual lifestyle. This trend toward the
casual permeated men’s styles. Even since World War Ⅱ the differences between clothing for
active sports and sportswear had been lessening. Dress clothing had become sportier. While the
corporate world still required traditional business attire, there was wide latitude in acceptable dress
for social occasions and leisure activities.
Boutiques sold designer clothing for men, and more designers of women’s clothing began to
design lines for men. The strong emphasis on fashion for men that had come with the Peacock
Revolution continued, and men’s styles provided inspiration for women’s clothing for work and
for play in the 1980s.
Words and Expressions –
segmentation n. 分工
decline
v. 衰落
permeate
v. 渗透，流行
lessen
v. 减少
sporty
adj. 运动型的，运动化的
corporate
adj. 公司的
attire
n. 服装，衣着
latitude
n. 范围，纬度
boutique
n. 时装专卖店
inspiration
n. 灵感
Notes –
- The trend toward the casual: 这种衣着休闲的趋势
- The corporate world: 商务世界
- designer clothing: 定制的服装
- lines for men: 男式服装系列
Questions –
- What is the Peacock Revolution: Perhaps the most remarkable development in 1960s dress
was the dramatic change in menswear. For the past 150 years, clothing for men had been
tailor-made and plain and dark in appearance. Now, following trends which first appeared in
gay fashions, colorful elements were introduced, such as the collarless jacket, worn with
slim-fitting trousers and boots. During the mid-1960s frills and cravats came back in, together
with vividly printed shirts. Finally, lapels and trousers took on exaggeratedly wide dimensions.
Clothing became increasingly unisex as men and women shopped at the same boutiques for
similar items.
Underwear
The same basic items of boxer shorts, briefs, and undershirts continued to be worn,
innovation being evident in color and cut. In 1984 the classic brief was first made in colors. In
1990, Jockey introduced a string bikini for men.
With increased interest in hiking and camping in the 1980s, thermal underwear for cold
weather was produced in cotton, wool, silk, and polypropylene. These products were
manufactured for both men and women.
Words and Expressions –
brief
n. 贴身的短内裤
undershirt
n. 汗衫
classic
adj. 经典的
string
n. 带，绳
hiking
n. 徒步旅行
camping
n. 野营
thermal
adj. 热的，发热的
polypropylene n. 聚丙烯
Notes - boxer shorts: 拳击短裤；男式平腿泳裤
Questions - What are basic items included in the men’s underwear? The basic items are boxer shorts,
briefs, and undershirts.
- What fabrics are used to make thermal underwear? - Cotton, wool, silk, and polypropylene.
Business suit
In the latter part of the 1970s three-piece suits with vests, in decline since the 1930s, returned.
Lapels narrowed and grew longer. The cut was looser. Suits appropriate for men (and women)
who wanted to succeed in business were referred to as power suits. Power suits for men were
conservatively tailored, usually double-breasted, made in dark colors and smooth-textured fabrics.
A change in silhouette for men’s suits came about with an emphasis on Italian-styling, especially
fashionable in the 1980s. These suits had wide shoulder-lines; the fit remained easy.
The November 19, 1990 issue of Time magazine, reported the loose-fitting sack suit, the
staple of men’s business suits in the medium price range for conservative American men for many
years, was “fading fast.” Citing large financial losses by American ready-to-wear men’s suit
manufacturers, author Jay Cocks also reported the rise of interest in English styling that was
narrower at the waist, wide at the shoulders, and had side vents. Suspenders were being used to
hold up trousers. French and Italian tailoring, with slightly softer tailoring, was also noted as
fashionable. Color ranges were broadening, too. The author, Jay Cocks, asked, “Could it be the
beginning of another peacock revolution, the biggest change in men’s fashions since the 1970s?”
dress shirts: Men could buy dress shirts in a wide variety of colors and patterns. In the early 1980s
colored or printed shirts with white collars were especially popular. Collar sizes varied, their
proportions suited to the proportion of jacket lapel widths.
Italian designer Giorgio Armani showed some of his suits of the 1980s being worn with
T-shirts. Although men in the corporate world and in more conservative professions never adopted
this practice, some men working in less formal settings or for leisure did wear a variety of
informal shirts with business suits. The trend toward increasingly casual clothing was evident in
the denim suits, composed of matching denim pants and jackets, that were fashionable in the early
1980s.
Words and Expressions –
vest
n. 马甲，背心
lapel
n. 翻领
sack
n. 口袋
staple
n. 主要部分
medium
adj. 中间的，中等的
fade
v. 消失，淡出
cite
v. 引用，引证
vent
n. 通风处
suspender
n. 吊带，吊带裤
tailoring
n. 裁剪业，成衣业
proportion
n. 比例
adopt
v. 采用
denim
n. 粗斜纹布
Notes –
- business suit: 商务装
- three-piece suits: 西装三件套
- double-breasted: 双排钮扣的, 对襟的
- come about: 发生，产生，演变
- the fit remains easy: 衣着依然保留舒适感
- sack suit: 普通西装
- in the medium price range: 中等价位范围
- dress shirt: 男礼服衬衫
- formal settings: 正式的场合
Questions –
- What is the men’s power suit? Power suits for men were conservatively tailored, usually
double-breasted, made in dark colors and smooth-textured fabrics.
- What did the Time reported in November 19, 1990? - Loose-fitting sack suit, the staple of
men’s business suits in the medium price range for conservative American men for many
years.
- What is the use of suspenders? – They are used to hold up trousers.
Sportswear
sports jackets: Sport jackets generally followed lines of suit jackets. When suit jacket fits grew
easier, so did sport jackets. Some of the more popular styles included.
 double-breasted blazers
 wool tweeds, especially in the early 1980s when natural fibers were popular, often worn
over a sweater or a fabric vest.
 Linen jackets in light or bright colors for summer in the 1980s
pants: pants styles for casual wear ranged from blue jeans to tailored slacks. Along with traditional,
conservative styles, these innovations can be identified.
 In the early 1980s some pants tapered to the bottom (closed with Velcro fasteners at the
ankle).
 By the latter 1980s trouser fronts had pleated fullness and a loose, easy fit.
sports shirts: the basic styles continued to be T-shirts, polo shirts, and woven short sleeved styles.
Many T-shirts and sweat shirts were decorated with “messages” or cartoon characters.
Summer wear included tank tops. For cooler weather men wore turtlenecks, velour pullovers
and shirts, jacquard-patterned knitted sweaters, and sweatshirt. In the 1980s, mesh shirts worn
by football players were added to casual sportswear.
sweaters: Sweaters in the 1970s fit fairly close to body, ending just below waistline. In the late
1970s and 1980s, sweaters became larger and looser, made in a wide variety of handsome
knits made from natural fibers in earth tones.
Words and Expressions –
blazer
n. 颜色鲜艳的运动夹克
tweed
n. 斜纹软呢
linen
n. 亚麻布
tailored
adj. 定制的
slacks
n. 宽松的裤子
taper
v. 逐渐变小
Velcro
n. 维可牢尼龙搭扣
fastener
n. 纽扣
pleated
adj. 折叠的，折皱的
polo
n. 马球
cartoon
turtleneck
velour
pullover
jacquard
mesh
n.
n.
n.
n.
n.
n.
漫画
套领/高翻领毛衣
天鹅绒，丝绒
套衫
提花
网眼，网状织物
Notes –
- sports jacket: 粗呢夹克
- cartoon characters: 漫画人物
Questions –
- List the kinds of sports jackets you have learned. – Double-breasted blazers, wool tweeds and
linen jackets.
- What is Velcro? - A trademark used for a fastening tape consisting of a strip of nylon with a
surface of minute hooks that fasten to a corresponding strip with a surface of uncut pile, used
especially on cloth products, such as outerwear, luggage, and athletic shoes.
- List the kinds of sports shirts you have learned. – T-shirts, polo shirts, mesh shirts.
Evening dress
Tail coats were worn by musicians and other stage performers and occasionally for weddings.
Almost all other men wore tuxedos for formal evening dress. Their fit varied in much same way as
that of daytime suits. Evening jackets and trousers didn’t always match in the 1970s. Evening
dress colors were diverse.
shirts: the ruffled shirt fronts first adopted in the 1960s continued in use throughout the period.
Words and Expressions –
tuxedo
n. 男士无尾半正式晚礼服
diverse
adj. 不同的，变化多的
ruffled
adj. 有褶饰边的
Notes –
- evening dress: 晚礼服
- tail coat: 燕尾服
- stage performer: 舞台演艺人员
Questions –
- For what occasion and by whom is the tail coat worn? - By musicians and other stage
performers and occasionally for weddings.
Outdoor garments
for business and dress: Hemlines lengths were similar to those of women and when women’s
hemlines varied a good deal in the 1970s, so did men’s. As the fit of suit coats became looser
in the 1980s, so did the fit of overcoats.
for casual wear outdoors: Some of the more popular casual outdoor wear included leather
motorcycle jackets, Western-style split cowhide with pile lining jackets (or simulated
synthetic pile versions), down-filled vests and jackets. Parkas were also worn.
Words and Expressions –
hemline
n. 裙边，外衣底边
overcoat
n. 外套大衣
split
adj. 分叉
cowhide
n. 牛皮
pile
n. 绒面
lining
n. 衬里
simulated
adj. 仿真的
synthetic
adj. 合成的
down-filled adj. 填绒的
vest
n. 汗衫，背心
parka
n. 风衣
Notes –
- pile lining jacket: 绒面衬里上装
- simulated pile: 仿绒
Questions –
- What dresses are worn outdoors? – Leather jackets, pile lining jackets, down-filled vests and
jackets, parka
Clothing for active sports
swimming: Men could choose from a wide range of styles which included the extreme thong,
bikinis, briefs, and boxer trunks. By the end of the 1980s stretch fabrics were being used.
warmup suits: Popular as a result of jogging and running fads, warmup suits were important
garments form the early 1980s on..
gym shorts and sweatpants: These were being worn for athletics and as casual sportswear in the
1980s.
bicycling shorts: in the mid 1980s, spandex bicycling shorts were worn. The knee-length styles
that were worn by competitors in the Tour de France set the styles.
tennis: By late 1970s colors were much in evidence.
skiing: Styles changed yearly, with gradually tighter fit and fabrics designed to offer as little wind
resistance as possible.
Bob Ottum writing in the February 27, 1984 issue of Sports Illustrated observed that the
Olympic ski uniforms of that year were so tight that “The next step can only be to line up the
racers naked at the starting gate and spray paint them.”
Cross-country skiing continued to be popular in the 1970s and 1980s. Knickers or tightly
fitted pants made of high tech synthetic fibers were worn for competitions, while amateurs wore
wool or corduroy knickers with knee-length stockings.
Words and Expressions –
thong
n. 皮带
trunk
n. 男式泳裤/运动裤
warmup
n. 热身
gym
n. 体操房
sweatpant
n. 长运动裤
athletics
n. 运动员
fad
n. 时尚
competitor
n. 竞争者
naked
adj. 赤裸裸的
racer
n. 比赛者
spray
n. 喷
paint
n. 油漆
cross-country
adj. 越野的
knickers
n. 灯笼裤, 短裤
high-tech
n. 高科技
amateur
n. 业余爱好者
corduroy
n. 灯芯绒
stocking
n. 长袜
Notes –
- Tour de France: 环法自行车赛
- in evidence: 明显
- line up: 排队
- starting gate: 起跑门
Questions –
- What are included as active sports? – Swimming, gym, bicycling, tennis, and skiing.
Sleepwear
Most widely used pajama styles tended to be either high-necked pullovers, V-neck pullovers,
or shirt-collar tops with pants. Robes were made in collarless kimono styles. Other robes had
shawl collars. In the late 1970s when velour fabrics were fashionable, men wore velour robes and
in the 1980s, terry robes with matching shorts.
Words and Expressions –
sleepwear
pajama
robe
kimono
V-neck
terry
n.
n.
n.
n.
n.
adj.
睡衣裤
睡衣
长袍，罩衣
（日本）和服
V 型领
厚绒的，起毛圈的
Hair and headdress
hair: Longer hairstyles persisted until the late 1970s when shorter styles returned. These
predominated throughout the 1980s, although hair of all lengths was still seen.
hats: Hats were still not worn a great deal except in cold weather. For sports, men wore caps.
Stetson-style hats experienced a brief revival during the popularity of the television program
Dallas, set in Texas, and snap-brim felt hats in the early 1980s after the release of the film Indiana
Jones and the Raiders of the Lost Ark.
Stetson
Dallas
snap
brim
felt
raider
ark
n.
n.
n.
n.
n.
n.
n.
宽边帽
达拉斯[美国得克萨斯州东北部城市]
按扣
边缘
毡
袭击者
方舟
Questions –
- How does the snap-brim felt hat come into being? – It came into popularity in the early 1980s
after the release of the film Indiana Jones and the Raiders of the Lost Ark.

Footwear
stockings: stockings were available in wide variety of knit fabrics, colors and patterns. When the
leading character on the television program Miami Vice wore shoes without socks, some
young men imitated him.
shoes and boots: boots remained fashionable throughout the 1970s. In the 1980s various types of
sneakers, both high and low, were important, as were Western boots, hiking and walking
shoes
Accessories
By the late 1970s ties were narrow again. In the late 1980s floral ties gained popularity, and
ties grew wider again.
Jewelry
Although more men were wearing jewelry, including gold chains and earrings, manuals of
advice to men about appropriate attire for business generally counseled them to wear only
wedding or signet rings, conservative watches with leather bands, tie clips or stickpins, and
cufflinks.
Words and Expressions –
imitate
v. 模仿
boot
n. 靴子
floral
adj. 花的
earring
n. 耳饰
manual
n. 手册
counsel
v. 劝告
signet
n. 图章
stickpin
n. 领带夹(指插于领带上的装饰别针)
cufflink
n. 男子衬衫袖的链扣
Notes –
- knit fabric: 织物
- leading character: 主角
- floral tie = floral print tie: 印花领带
- signet ring: 图章戒指
- tie clip: 领带夹
Cosmetics and grooming
A billion dollars was spent on men’s toiletries in 1987, 560 million of which was for
fragrances and aftershave lotions, double that of ten years ago. (Vogue, June 1987) More skin care
products were also available.
Gentlemen’s Quarterly of March 1990 printed a feature article about a session at a men’s
beauty salon in New York City. While men’s beauty salons were not commonplace, the locations
of nine others elsewhere in the nation were noted for readers who might be interested. Many men
had their hair “styled” at unisex beauty parlors rather than “cut” at barber shops.
Don Johnson, the leading man in Miami Vice generally appeared on that TV show with
several-days growth of beard. Soon fashion models, and some fashion-conscious students and men
whose jobs permitted were cultivating an “unshaven” look.
Words and Expressions –
grooming
n. 修饰
toiletry
n. 化妆品
fragrance
n. 香水
aftershave
lotion
quarterly
commonplace
unisex
parlor
cultivate
adj.
n.
n.
adj.
adj.
n.
v.
剃须后
洗液/膏
季刊
平凡的
男女皆宜的
营业店
养成，培养
Notes –
- feature article: 专题文章
- beauty salon, beauty parlor: 美容院
- fashion-conscious: 讲究时尚的
Questions –
- Compose compound words for the garment industry with the suffix “-wear” or noun phrase
with the last word “wear” – sportswear, sleepwear, footwear, knitwear, neckwear, headwear,
underwear, casual wear, formalwear, eveningwear, ready-to-wear, menswear, street wear,
daytime wear, holiday wear, casual wear, summer wear, adults wear.
- Compose compound words with the suffix “-work”: needlework, stitchwork, patchwork,