HUMANITIES CHARACTER PROJECT “MEETING OF THE MINDS” Bates Updated 9-3-12 PART 2 COSTUME RESEARCH AND PLAN HOW TO IDENTIFY EXPERT SOURCES AND HOW TO ANNOTATE A SOURCE See the handout titled " Annotated Works Cited Instructions" under the Research Resources tab on the class web site. There, you will get instructions for how to assess whether or not a source is a primary source, an expert secondary source, or a “junky” source. Once you have read that handout, here are some tips specific to the character project assignment. FINDING PRIMARY AND EXPERT SECONDARY SOURCES IN COSTUME RESEARCH Here is a discussion of how to research costumes using two types of sources: primary and expert secondary. If you can, try to find paintings or sculptures done of your character while she or he was alive. For costume research, you may not be able to find primary sources, which are items that belonged to your character, but you are getting close if you can find images or art work (painting, sculpture, mosaics, textiles) and actual clothing, shoes, and jewelry from the time period and location of your character. Be careful not to use art work from centuries after your character’s time period. Many artists, for instance, painted King Arthur or ancient Greeks hundreds of years after their actual time periods, and they superimposed the fashions of their own times over the images of the historical characters. Alas, they may not have done any research at all. MORE COSTUME RESEARCH EXPERT SECONDARY SOURCES For costume research, other expert secondary sources would be academic researchers, professional costume designers, etc., who tell you what they think people dressed like during your time period. This is second-hand information, so the validity of it depends almost entirely on the authority and rigor of the researcher. Books are better resources, but web sites can often direct you to some great books. At the end of this document are some web sites that might help you get started. HOW TO FORMAT YOUR COSTUME RESEARCH & PLAN Look at the rubric, please. Read it! It is at the end of this document. Remember, this is research on the authentic clothing for your character’s time, place, and station in life (see research tips above), so the information does not have to be specific to your exact character. Later, after doing the research, you recreate something accurate for your own costume. Costumes should reflect the authentic clothing of the person, but do not spend a lot of money. JUST DON’T DO IT: Don’t use paintings, sculptures, etc., by artists who are not contemporaries of your character. More often than not, they layered current fashions and romantic notions over the reality. More times than not, they had very little historically accurate information at their disposal and, frankly, didn’t really care about accuracy. Sculptors, painters, and engravers were not always historians, so check carefully before you assume your artist is one of the few who actually were painting your character while s/he sat in front of the artist in real time. Don’t use web sites. Period. Okay, I’ve changed my mind. Out of a few hundred possible web sites, one or two might be okay, but that’s because they used books as their sources, so find those sources to use for your costume plan (and don’t forget to cite your best expert print source in MLA format and annotate them). If you find a good web site (and, okay, there are some), you still must thoroughly research the author until you are satisfied that the information is usable. Don’t use Halloween costume sites, Costumes-R-Us type companies, your uncle who loves the King Arthur tales, the Renaissance Festival, the Medieval Festival, or some lady who sews in Iowa and say her costumes are authentic. Puh-leeze. That’s just lazy. If the Renaissance Festival says their costumes are authentic, they may be, but what are their sources? Use those. JUST DO IT: Use correct MLA formatting. Use Easybib.com as a reference. See the handout titled "Annotated Works Cited Instructions" for a sample annotated works cited page. Use primary sources such as work by artists who were contemporaries of your character. You still need to cross-reference their art with an academic source, but if your character actually sat for the artist or lived nearby, chances are the depiction is more accurate. That is, unless the artist was painting the person with romantic notions from that era’s past (e.g. painting Queen Elizabeth I in Mary, Mother of Jesus garb in an attempt to make her look holy). You see how this works. Use books. Out of a few hundred possible books, a few may not be trustworthy, but your chances are much, much, much better with a book than a web site. If you haven’t been to the library (the best for you – Salem or Canton H.S., EMU, Madonna for Christian characters), you haven’t got a clue what you’re missing and how paltry, irresponsible, and inaccurate many web sources are by comparison. If there isn’t an image out there that you can color photocopy, you may use portions from different images and cobble them together on the page (citing each source, of course). You may draw if your only helpful information is text-based, but you to thoroughly quote the academic text you are using to create your image. Draw arrows to every single essential item with an historical description (quoted from source) if you have one. Lastly, don’t forget to annotate one expert print source. Who is your authority? Where and when is he or she writing? What are his or her sources? Is he or she diligent, responsible, and objective? Does the information jibe with your other trustworthy sources? See handout titled "Annotated Works Cited Instructions" for a detailed discussion of how to annotate a source. TIPS FOR FINDING GOOD COSTUME SOURCES IN LIBRARIES The Salem and Canton High School libraries have collected a number of costume design resources specifically to help you with this project. We recommend you start there first. Look at the web sites listed at the end of this document. Ms. Bates collected a list of some sites that appear helpful. They may also have references to other books and resources. This list is definitely not exhaustive, so use it as a starting point. For costume sources, EMU and U of M have excellent libraries and may be your only reasonable sources. EMU’s is easier to navigate and parking is easier. You don’t have to be a student at either university to use the facilities or ask for a librarian’s help. Every year there are more and more digital resources that are only available by subscription. Our school libraries have paid for password access to a number of biography, history, and humanities academic databases. Ask them for assistance. List of costume web sites is attached (see below). COSTUME WEB SITES: SOURCES OF PRIMARY AND SECONDARY INFORMATION User beware. Do not assume that every piece of information on every site is good just because the site is listed here. Do not assume that this is an exhaustive list: it’s just a start. Judge each piece of information with skepticism and do research into the source’s claims. Ms. Bates and Mr. Read collected these sites quickly a few years ago and judged them on a surface level, so you are still responsible for carefully checking them out! Here are links to six books on fashion. The first five are from a five volume set called "Encyclopedia of Fashion Costume and Culture." Encyclopedia Of Fashion Costume & Culture - Vol 1 (The Ancient World) http://cerebus300.com/docs/fashion/fashion-ancient-world.pdf Encyclopedia Of Fashion Costume & Culture - Vol 2 (Early Cultures Across the Globe) http://cerebus300.com/docs/fashion/fashion-early-cultures-across-gobe.pdf Encyclopedia Of Fashion Costume & Culture - Vol 3 (European Culture - Renaissance to Modern Era) http://cerebus300.com/docs/fashion/fashion-european-renaissance-modern.pdf Encyclopedia Of Fashion Costume & Culture - Vol 4 (Modern World 1900-1945) http://cerebus300.com/docs/fashion/fashion-modern-1900-1945.pdf Encyclopedia Of Fashion Costume & Culture - Vol 5 (Modern World 1946-2003) http://cerebus300.com/docs/fashion/fashion-modern-1946-2003.pdf And a separate volume on medieval fashion: http://cerebus300.com/docs/fashion/medieval-fashions.pdf Here are some more options: http://www.costumepage.org/ THE COSTUME PAGE: Historical costuming; links to great resources (books and web sites) http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com/ THE COSTUME SOCIETY OF AMERICA: a scholarly organization with info and links to costume books available on Amazon.com http://marquise.de/index.html LA COUTURIERE PARISIENNE COSTUME AND FASHION SITE: period costume from the Middle Ages to 20th c. http://www.milieux.com/costume/ THE COSTUME SITE: links to historical costume sites (scroll down) http://www.costumesociety.org.uk/newstuff/Links/links.html THE COSTUME SOCIETY (UK): Useful info plus links to museums with costume information on line http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/history.html THE HISTORY OF COSTUME: based on a German book from the Victorian era; covers world history (read helpful annotation on home page for limitations of the site) http://www.library.ubc.ca/finearts/COSTUME.html UNIVERSITY OF BRITISH COLUMBIA LIBRARY: excellent list of web resources in costuming (e.g. footwear of the middle ages; history of the kimono) http://www.multcolib.org/homework/costumhc.html MULTNOMAH COUNTY, OREGON, LIBRARY RESOURCES PAGE: some great links to fashion by century and culture http://www.marquise.de/webring/sitelist.html COSTUME WEB RING: page lists all sites on the web ring with brief descriptions; some will be good and some not (a good one: a 16th c. German seamstress’ dress diary) http://www.longago.com/ VINTAGE HOUSE: costuming patterns from ancient times to recent http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/viktunic.html VIKING TUNIC CONSTRUCTION: detailed with drawings; includes lengthy bibliography at end http://www.brotherguido.com/Greatkilt/Default.htm HOW TO WRAP AND WEAR A GREAT KILT: as site says, just instructions but not a “study” http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Delphi/4715/costume/shoes.html EARLY MEDIEVAL IRISH SHOES http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/shoe/SHOEHOME.HTM FOOTWEAR OF THE MIDDLE AGES http://www.straw.com/sig/dyehist.html DYE HISTORY FROM 2600 BC to 20th CENTURY http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/articles/cotton.html COTTON IN THE MIDDLE AGES http://www.arachne.com/ GUIDE TO 16th and 17th CENTURY LACES http://www.cooperhewitt.org/COLLECTIONS/textiles.asp TEXTILES COLLECTIONS FROM THE COOPER-HEWITT NATIONAL DESIGN MUSEUM http://www.textilemuseum.org/ WASHINGTON, D.C. TEXTILES MUSEUM (exhibits change regularly) SAMPLE COSTUME PLANS (Eagleton 46) (Eagleton 19) (Eagleton 20-21) (Eagleton 84) (Eagleton 84) COSTUME REPRODUCTION PLAN Actual outfit worn as a result of this costume reproduction plan. TEACHER COMMENTS: What is this costume plan missing? It needs parenthetical citations next to each image and text box. Sample parenthetical citations can be found on the Hypatia example earlier in this document. E The diminutive Catherine began feeling insecure in regards to facing the ‘splendid’ French Court. In desperation, she sought the aid of an ingenious Florentine artisan...her cobbler. He produced a creation that would cast a spell over the entire French nation when he removed the clunky wooden soles from Catherine's shoes and replaced it with a slender padded four-inch heel. Teacher comments: This plan forgot to mention hair, shoes, jewelry, etc. Notice how the letter codes are used to connect each article of clothing to a specific plan to reproduce it. Actual costume sewn and worn can be seen on the next page. NAME ________________________________ CHARACTER NAME _______________ TEACHER ________ HOUR ________ CHARACTER BIRTH YEAR _____________ CHARACTER PROJECT RUBRIC FOR COSTUME RESEARCH & PLAN (ATTACH TO FRONT) PAGE ONE: IMAGE OF HISTORICALLY ACCURATE CLOTHING GENERAL ____/1 Rubric attached as first item in stapled packet and labeled at top; all three pages of document are typed ____/2 Student name, teacher, and hour and name of character are typewritten, single-spaced, at the top righthand corner of the first page IMAGE ____/5 Image is of one full-length outfit, including headwear, hair style, neckline, front of torso, waist, legs, hemline, footwear, undergarments, jewelry, and weaponry ____/5 Image is of a) character’s actual clothing in a museum, b) clothing worn by a person of similar status and era in a museum, c) a portrait or sculpture of the person or someone similar from his or her era, d) an image of the person or someone similar from a professional clothing history or costuming text (in descending order of preference) ____/1 No images of Halloween costumes, items from shopping web sites, images from films, or modern clothing (e.g., tube socks or driving gloves) ____/2 Colors of each part of the costume are clearly shown in image or indicated in text ____/2 Details are clearly visible and not too small, distorted, pixelized, or blurry ____/1 All extraneous illustrations and text are removed from image; only the clothing and character’s face or hands, if visible, are pasted on a full length sheet of paper; white space is left around the costume for text; clothing is not obscured by text TEXT ____/5 Direct quotes in quotation marks (positioned next to each part of the body with lines drawn to the corresponding parts) describe full-length outfit, including headwear, hair style, neckline, front of torso, waist, legs, hemline, footwear, undergarments, jewelry, and weaponry PARENTHETICAL CITATION ____/6 All aspects of the clothing page – quotes and images – are labeled with correctly formatted parenthetical citation that corresponds to the source in the works cited page; includes only the last name of the author and page number in parentheses (no comma, second authors, or web site URLs) SUBTOTAL __________ / 30 MECHANICS DEDUCTION (ONE POINT PER ERROR) MINUS ____ FINAL TOTAL __________ / 30 PAGE TWO: ANNOTATED WORKS CITED PAGE QUALITY OF SOURCES ___/2 Mimimum one expert source; must be a print source ___/1 All sources are expert sources. When making an exception to use a non-expert source, an explanation is given in a brief annotation. Exceptions are only made for sources of small images like shoes when they absolutely cannot be found in an expert source. MLA CITATION AND FORMAT ____/4 double-spaced header in upper left corner: name, teacher/class/hour, date centered title immediately after header in 12 point font (not underlined, bold, or capitalized) printed single-sided (not double-sided) pages numbered in upper right corner with last name and page number (no comma) ____/4 every effort has been made to include an author, editor, and publisher titles of large sources like books are italicized; titles of small sources like images are in quotes correct order of information in citation correct punctuation in citation “web site” is spelled as two words; word “bias” is used correctly (NO: “This source is bias.” YES: “There is bias in this source because...” YES: “This source appears biased because….”) ___/3 first line of each citation at left all lines after first line of citation indented annotation begins immediately after citation one-inch margins for the entire document ___/2 all sources, whether annotated or not, are in alphabetical order all lines double-spaced with no extra space between entries MLA ANNOTATION FOR ONE BEST EXPERT SOURCE ___/2 no Internet sources are used unless they have a clearly identifiable author or publisher no Wikipedia except for authentic images whose origins can be verified ___/12 All requirements for annotations are included for each annotated source: why this is/is not an expert source (expert background of author, publisher, etc.) assessment of bias (lense through which author views the topic); uses word “bias” correctly specifically which kinds of information came from the source why you know this particular picture or description is authentic and accurate how this source was most useful for your work (be specific about info you used) how this source was least useful for your work (be specific about what was missing) where/how information was found (name of library, web search, etc.) SUBTOTAL MECHANICS DEDUCTION (ONE POINT PER ERROR) FINAL TOTAL __________ / 30 MINUS ____ __________ / 30 PAGE THREE: COSTUME REPRODUCTION PLAN ____/5 Listing each major and minor portion of the costume, include a brief explanation of how you might re-create the costume for your performance: general silhouette, style of collar, sleeve, waistline, hem length, accessories, hairstyle, shoes, socks ____/3 Plan accurately reflects the clothing your character wore ____/1 Plan costs little or no money ____/1 Plan makes use of found objects around the house and/or borrowed items SUBTOTAL MECHANICS DEDUCTION (ONE POINT PER ERROR) FINAL TOTAL __________ / 10 MINUS ____ __________ / 10