PRESS-RELEASE
Riga, 08.07.2015
Invitation to the Centenary Ball. 1915–2015
The most glamorous evening gowns from the private collection
of the fashion historian Alexandre Vassiliev, Paris
16 July – 25 October 2015
The Museum of Decorative Arts and Design / Great Hall
10/20 Skarņu Street, Riga, LV-1050, Latvia
Press conference and meeting with the collector A. Vassiliev for media representatives
on 14 July 2015 at 11.00.
Registration: 10.30–11.00.
Opening of the exhibition on 15 July 2015 at 18.00 (entry by Invitation ONLY!).
From 16 July to 25 October 2015, the Museum of Decorative Arts and Design
in Riga (10/20 Skarņu Street) will host the exhibition “Invitation to the Centenary
Ball. 1915–2015”presenting the most glamorous evening gowns from the private
collection of the outstanding fashion historian Alexandre Vassiliev, Paris.
What could be more desirable, more romantic than an invitation to the ball? A ball is a
combination of music and dance, the aroma of perfumes, sparkling eyes, rustling taffeta
material and shining glitter, a haze of tulle and delightful lace patterns… Over the past century,
hundreds of designers and tailors have made the attempt to pander to the refined tastes of
top-notch customers creatively, in this matchless great fashion genre. Ball gowns continually
enrapture and excite, as they embody the female dream!
Alexandre Vassiliev’s private couture collection show at the Museum of Decorative Arts
and Design in Riga has become a tradition since it is the seventh time that he stages his
exhibitions here. This year, the glamorous show brings together the most beautiful costumes
characterizing the historical period from 1915 to 2015. It is a celebration of a centenary-long
past of fashion, a fashion triumph and the quintessence of beauty. The exhibition comprises
unique ball and evening gowns from the latest acquisitions to the Alexandre Vassiliev
Foundation.
The glamorous fashion parade starts with evening dresses worn at the beginning of the
20th century when the Argentinian tango came into fashion, followed by the maxixe (Brazilian
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Invitation to the Centenary Ball. 1915–2015. The most glamorous evening gowns from the private collection
of the fashion historian Alexandre Vassiliev, Paris / LNMA – MDAD / 16.07.–25.10.2015 /
1
tango), quickstep and foxtrot too, alongside the waltzes and galops, the contra dance and
mazurkas. The ball scene changed radically with the beginning of the First World War – the
number of balls declined as most of the menfolk were at the front. Corsets were completely
pushed off the fashion scene, the colour black, the colour of grieving and suffering in war, was
an innovation for balls.
The new era of ball life commenced only after the end of the war in 1918. The American
jazz music filled the world, and ladies’ ball dresses became shorter. Electric light made night
clubs popular for many, and the balls gradually began to move from pompous formal halls to
dance clubs and night clubs. In 1920, Riga was called the little Paris, with night clubs and
dances portrayed frequently in the paintings of the time. The Art Deco fashion, without doubt,
reflected the emancipation of women, the desire of females to reveal their shoulders, arms,
backs and legs, shortening their skirts to the knee, and furthermore lowering the midline and
hip line. Muslin gowns, embroidered with glass pearls, beads and sequins were in fashion at
the time. Shoes with straps and one or more fasteners were worn with these, to cope with the
challenges of the energetic movements of the modern dance of the time, the Charleston.
The 1930s – the era of the Great Depression – introduced the tuxedo into men’s ball
wardrobes, with female gowns now reaching to the floor, bringing the average length back to
its natural position. Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli was an outstanding creator of
extravagant style ball gowns. Her competitor in fashion, Gabrielle Chanel (Coco Chanel)
maintained the fashion of the black guipure dress. But Madeleine Vionnet, a French genius of
fashion design continued the bias cut gown, which transformed the female silhouette in those
years. Many designers in this pre-war period created magnificent ball dresses. Balls were
often held on ships, transatlantic liners and at educational institutions. Pre-war balls were often
dedicated to professional guilds – there were special balls for railwaymen, cooks, doctors,
firemen and tailors. But the balls in Hollywood art films, which transformed women into
princesses in crepe-satin gowns and wonderful models in sparkling lamé material, were
considered to be the most glamorous and stylish.
The Second World War once again disrupted the long-standing tradition of balls. They
were much fewer in number, but they still took place and helped people forget reality and
plunge into romantic atmosphere, like watching Hollywood films. Those at the pinnacle of
design in those years included Maggy Rouff, Lucien Lelong, Cristobal Balenciaga, Jean
Lanvin, and later Christian Dior and Pierre Balmain in Paris. At that time, the incomparable
American fashion designer Valentina, born in Kiev as Valentina Sanina, shone in New York.
The end of the war and the demobilization of troops spurred the rapid rebirth of ball life. The
New Look fashion created by Christian Dior in 1947, with its full tulle skirts, was like something
that had been specifically commissioned for balls. The fullest and most representable ball
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Invitation to the Centenary Ball. 1915–2015. The most glamorous evening gowns from the private collection
of the fashion historian Alexandre Vassiliev, Paris / LNMA – MDAD / 16.07.–25.10.2015 /
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gowns were offered to the public specifically in the 1950s. These were often extremely
feminine, with plunging necklines and tailored from fabric in warm, mild tones, and made every
woman look like a beautiful blooming rose.
The revolutionary 1960s significantly transformed traditions in the lifestyle of the Old
and New World. Balls were single-mindedly and sharply pushed off the fashion scene, making
way for the new style. Young people were interested in outer space and the fashion it
stimulated, in the new dances – the twist and the shake. And the super-modern mini-skirt
created confusion with the fashion of the ball gown which extended to the floor. However, even
in these conditions, balls were held at the White House in Washington, at government events
in Europe, for example, the Rose Ball at Monte Carlo. Red carpets became increasingly
popular in the post-war years: the award presentation festival at the Cannes Film Festival, the
Oscars Awards in Hollywood or the presentation of the Cezar Awards in Paris. The number of
balls decreased, but the number of prestigious ceremonies visibly increased, and ball gowns
transformed gradually into new, formal and no less impressive costumes.
The hippy movement which began in the USA in 1968, threw everything on its head –
ball gowns as we knew them and many bourgeois values went out of fashion. The concept of
the ball as such was replaced for a time with the concept of the hippy happening, with the
choice being a rock concert in a meadow or the enjoyment of country music in ethnic costume.
The return of the retro style with the light touch of Yves Saint Laurent in the early 1970s
allowed a flash back to the old days in the field of evening gowns and ball gowns. The new
disco style brought not only new musical themes, but also the desire to shine, replacing the
desire to be flashy. Gowns with shoulder pads, covered with sparkles and glass beads in the
late 1970 and 1980s were the last gasp in the interest in honest 20th century bourgeois
values.
The late 20th century first brought ecology into fashion and then, minimalism and
maximalism. Oscar de la Renta, John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood,
Karl Lagerfeld and others were the outstanding creators of ball designs during these years.
The crisis, which affected the major fashion scene in the sense of a declining interest in public
balls and a shortage of moneyed customers, forced the major fashion designers to visibly
simplify the assortment of ball gowns, creating many models for the prêt-à-porter (ready-towear) level.
But the new designers haven’t given up! As before, they are ready for the rebirth of
charm and are creating one-off models, many of which are presented in a new exhibition
“Invitation to the Centenary Ball. 1915–2015” at the Museum of Decorative Arts and Design.
Text by Alexandre Vassiliev, Alīda Krēsliņa
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Invitation to the Centenary Ball. 1915–2015. The most glamorous evening gowns from the private collection
of the fashion historian Alexandre Vassiliev, Paris / LNMA – MDAD / 16.07.–25.10.2015 /
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Exhibition patron: ABLV Bank.
Exhibition supported by: State Culture Capital Foundation, Riga City Council’s
Education, Culture and Sports Department, Riga Tourism Development Bureau
Foundation LIVE RIGA, agency LILITA, Alexandre Vassiliev Foundation.
SOME BIOGRAPHICAL DATA OF ALEXANDRE VASSILIEV
Alexandre Vassiliev (Александр Васильев) was born on 8 December 1958 into a family of
theatre artists. Since 1982 he lives in Paris. Alexandre Vassiliev, a fashion historian and artist, is
the owner of one of the greatest collections related to fashion in the world, counting over fifty
thousand articles. He is the author of many books and articles on history of fashion. He has
created more than a hundred opera and ballet set designs for the leading theatres in France,
United Kingdom, United States, Japan and elsewhere in the world. Earlier he was engaged also as
the feature editor of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar magazines, Russian edition. Alexandre Vassiliev
was awarded S. P. Diaghilev's and V. Nizhinsky's medals, Patron Order and Gold Medal of the
Russian Academy of Art. In 2010, he received Тhe World Fashion Awards, Russia recognition for
his contribution to the field of fashion history.
EXHIBITION CURATOR:
Alexandre Vassiliev (Александр Васильев), fashion historian,
President of the Alexandre Vassiliev Foundation, Paris
EXHIBITION COORDINATORS AT THE MUSEUM:
Alīda Krēsliņa, art historian
GSM: (+371) 29 173440, E: alida.kreslina@inbox.lv
Inese Baranovska, Head of the Museum of Decorative Arts and Design
Latvian National Museum of Art
T: (+371) 67 830900, GSM: (+371) 27 898454, E: Inese.Baranovska@lnmm.lv
INTERNET SOURCES:
www.lnmm.lv
www.vassiliev.com
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Invitation to the Centenary Ball. 1915–2015. The most glamorous evening gowns from the private collection
of the fashion historian Alexandre Vassiliev, Paris / LNMA – MDAD / 16.07.–25.10.2015 /
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The Museum of Decorative Arts and Design (10/20 Skarņu Street, Riga, Latvia)
OPENING HOURS:
Daily 11.00–17.00, ticket office 11.00–16.30
Wednesdays 11.00–19.00, ticket office 11.00–18.30
Closed on Mondays
The museum is closed on all public holidays: 1 January, Good Friday, Easter, Midsummer Eve and Day (23–
24 June), Christmas (25–26 December), 31 December.
ADMISSION:
Individual admission fee for groups of 10 or more people given in brackets. Free admission for group leaders.
Adults:
EUR 3,56 (2,85)
Schoolchildren, students, senior citizens: EUR 2,13 (1,42)
Family ticket (1–2 adults with 1–4 children or family having many children): EUR 5,69
PRESS IMAGES (please request if need in a larger resolution)
1.
Velvet evening cape with fleece collar. Bradley LTD
Fashion House, London, 1914–1916. Private collection
of Alexandre Vassiliev. Publicity photo
2.
Levander lamé dress, ‘gold leaf’ patterned, ‘angel wing’
sleeves. Babani Fashion House, Paris, 1928–1930s.
Private collection of Alexandre Vassiliev. Publicity photo
3.
Evening cape, all embroidered with sequins, beads and
rhinestones. Probably France, late 1920s.
Black tulle coctail dress embroidered with sequins.
Radiah Fashion House, Paris, 1923. Private collection of
Alexandre Vassiliev. Publicity photo
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Invitation to the Centenary Ball. 1915–2015. The most glamorous evening gowns from the private collection
of the fashion historian Alexandre Vassiliev, Paris / LNMA – MDAD / 16.07.–25.10.2015 /
5
4.
Aqua silk lamé and gold brocade evening dress, printed
in shades of light blue and lavender. Western Europe,
1930–1932. Private collection of Alexandre Vassiliev.
Publicity photo
5.
Ivory evening gown, silk crepe, empire, long
Renaissance sleeves, outside drawstring silk cord below
bustline, teardrop crystal buttons. Valentina Fashion
House, USA, 1937. Private collection of Alexandre
Vassiliev. Publicity photo
Valentina Nicholaevna Sanina Schlee (1899–1989),
Ukrainian émigrée fashion designer and theatrical
costume designer who was active from 1928 to the late
1950s.
6.
White satin jacquard evening dress, tulle covering,
decorated with sequin and glass bead rose pattern
embroidery. Western Europe, the 1940s. Private
collection of Alexandre Vassiliev. Publicity photo
7.
Silk taffeta and beige tulle New Look ball dress, bodice
embroidered with rhinestones, glass pearls and beads.
USA, 1953. Private collection of Alexandre Vassiliev.
Publicity photo.
From Constance St.Clair's (1923–2009) wardrobe, worn
by her at the inauguration party of the USA President
Dwight D. Eisenhower at the White House ball,
Washington, D.C.
8.1
Regal ball gown duchesse ivory satin, voluminous skirt in
shades of gold, rose and green, jeweled and chennile
embroidered bodice, multilayered crinoline petticoats.
Balmain Fashion House, 1958. Bought from Brooklyn
Museum, New York, USA. Private collection of
Alexandre Vassiliev. Publicity photo
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Invitation to the Centenary Ball. 1915–2015. The most glamorous evening gowns from the private collection
of the fashion historian Alexandre Vassiliev, Paris / LNMA – MDAD / 16.07.–25.10.2015 /
6
8.2
Regal ball gown duchesse ivory satin, voluminous skirt in
shades of gold, rose and green, jeweled and chennile
embroidered bodice, multilayered crinoline petticoats.
Balmain Fashion House, 1958. Bought from Brooklyn
Museum, New York, USA. Private collection of
Alexandre Vassiliev. Publicity photo
9.
Black silk rep New Look ball dress with white polka dot
print. Designer: Oscar de la Renta, USA, 1958–1959.
Private collection of Alexandre Vassiliev. Publicity photo
10.
White silk evening dress, red thread floral pattern
embroidery on bodice, rhinestone and artificial pearl
embroidery. Oleg Cassini Fashion House, USA, 1959.
Private collection of Alexandre Vassiliev. Publicity photo
11.
Evening dress. Christian Dior Fashion House, Paris,
1964. Bought from Brooklyn Museum, New York, USA.
Private collection of Alexandre Vassiliev. Publicity photo
12.
Ball gown. Chanel Fashion House, Paris, 1938. Publicity
photo from the private collection of Alexandre Vassiliev
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Invitation to the Centenary Ball. 1915–2015. The most glamorous evening gowns from the private collection
of the fashion historian Alexandre Vassiliev, Paris / LNMA – MDAD / 16.07.–25.10.2015 /
7
13.
Ball gown. Jacques Fath Fashion House, Paris, 1951.
Publicity photo from the private collection of Alexandre
Vassiliev
14.
Ball gowns. 1953. Publicity photo from the private
collection of Alexandre Vassiliev
15.
Evening dress. 1954. Designer: Maggy Rouff, Paris,
1954. Publicity photo from the private collection of
Alexandre Vassiliev
16.
Ball gown Paris. Jacques Heim Fashion House, Paris,
ca. 1960. Publicity photo from the private collection of
Alexandre Vassiliev
17.
Evening dress. Ca. 1957. Publicity photo from the private
collection of Alexandre Vassiliev
18.
Evening dress. Simonetta Fashion House, Rome, ca.
1966. Publicity photo from the private collection of
Alexandre Vassiliev
Press release prepared by:
Natalie Suyunshalieva
Head of Press
The Latvian National Museum of Art
P: (+371) 67 357527; F: (+371) 67 357520
E: pr.service@lnmm.lv; I: www.lnmm.lv
Twitter: www.twitter.com/lnmm_muzejs
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Invitation to the Centenary Ball. 1915–2015. The most glamorous evening gowns from the private collection
of the fashion historian Alexandre Vassiliev, Paris / LNMA – MDAD / 16.07.–25.10.2015 /
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