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ABC of SA
ABC OF SA NEWSLETTER
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(©®™)
October / November 2015
Newsletter.
WELCOME!
A warm welcome to all our Associate, Intern and Accredited members! There are a variety of interesting
articles in this issue – and I hope you enjoy them.
Recent Events
Unfortunately the movie evening (The Language of Dogs) had to be postposed. SA Guide Dogs contacted us
at the last minute, and informed us that we were unable to use the hall at that time. An alternative venue
for this event is being found and the evening will go ahead in the near future. Everyone will be advised via
social medial and e mail of the new date and venue.
I would like to apologise to all members and anyone who had booked, who were informed so late in the
day of the cancellation. This was out of the control of the ABC and we are sorry for any inconvenience
caused.
Facebook Discussion Group
Our membership on the facebook discussion group are growing from strength to strength and we are
currently sitting at just below five thousand members! We are delighted at its ongoing success!
The group is a platform for sharing information and general behaviour and training discussions. We do not
offer a facebook ‘problem sovling’ service, as we feel that an internet forum is generally not an appropriate
platform for resolving any serious isses, and always recommend the services of an accredited, professional in
these cases.
If you are not already a member – see the link below and join now!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/112024028817309/
What happens when clients get angry and how you can best manage it?
An excerpt from People Training Skills for Pet Professionals
By Niki Tudge 2015
Anger can be an incredibly damaging force that can leave professional relationships floundering in its wake if
it is not managed properly. Anger is a natural emotion that stems from a perceived threat or loss. Clients can
become angry if they feel threatened, physically or otherwise, e.g. if we challenge their existing ideas,
thoughts or actions regarding how they care for and train their pets.
Anger affects the body, mind, emotions and behavior (see Table 3-3). Like all behaviors we can describe
anger in terms of its dimensions, such as intensity, frequency, duration and latency, and we can define its
threshold. Generally, expressed anger follows a predictable pattern. If you can understand the cycle, it can
help you control both your own emotions and those of others.
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What follows is the crisis phase where the body is on full alert and prepared to take action. During this phase
clients will no longer be rational and logical discussion becomes impossible. From here, the next part of the
cycle is the recovery phase. The client’s anger is now spent and you will see a steady return to normal
behavior. During this phase you may be the trigger for more anger if you intervene inappropriately.
When clients appear depressed they are, appropriately, in the depression phase. This marks the return to
their normal state. Physically, they will have below normal vital signs, e.g. heart rate. This is so the body can
regain equilibrium. Clients should now have full use of their faculties and may also express guilt and regret.
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In this world nothing can be said to be certain except death and taxes.
Benjamin Franklin
One of the primary functions of the human brain is to keep us safe. Involuntary reactions, such as blinking
when an object comes too close to one’s face or instinctively pulling one’s hand away from a fire, are a large
part of what kept prehistoric man alive.
When we are presented with a dangerous situation, instinct dictates what we do. The Fight or Flight theory
was developed by Walter Cannon in 1915 and refers specifically to how humans and animals react to
perceived threats. It underscores how anger is a natural response and that there is no morality to it. It also
reminds us of our need to stay in control. We can no longer be rational if we are angry. Instead our instincts
will lead us to aggressive and hyper vigilant behavior, all of which are incompatible to a rational and
deliberate response.
Because anger is aggravated by a feeling of victimization and helplessness, it may be useful to know that
there are three options available when dealing with it. You can alter, avoid or accept it. Clients are not
victims of the situation. They have the option of taking a deliberate and well-thought out response to an
anger-provoking situation, as do you. If a client gets angry, it can feel overwhelming and trigger intense
reactions. Here are some tips on how to deal with anger more effectively. They fall into one of the three
categories of alter, accept or avoid:
Respectfully ask others to change their behavior and be willing to do the same.
You cannot exert control over other people’s thoughts, feelings and behavior. But you can ask then to
change.
Analyze the way you view and react to certain situations and, if necessary, change how your respond.
Do not use irrational thoughts to govern how you react.
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 can purposefully change the way you respond to things that you would identify as your hot buttons.
You
Anger usually creates anger.
Steer clear of people who make you upset.
If your own anger is triggered by interactions with difficult people, then consider avoiding such people.
One of the advantages of being aware of your hot buttons is that it you can structure your day so you can
avoid them.
Remove yourself from a stressful situation immediately.
Immediately remove yourself from a situation that might cause your anger to escalate.
One of the delicate aspects of handling a client’s anger is knowing how to react without making the situation
worse. An understanding of the energy curve can help here (see Figure below). The energy curve describes
the typical pattern present in an angry reaction. It also details how reactions progress and how one might
appropriately respond at each stage.
The baseline of the energy curve is normal rational behavior. At this point you can still have a reasonable
discussion. Once an angry reaction has kicked in, the rational mind is no longer in control. You cannot reason
with somebody who is getting angry. Anger builds momentum. This is known as the take-off point. How
intense the anger gets will depend on the individual. Some people restrict themselves to angry facial
expressions while others will raise their voices and even progress to physical violence. This is definitely not
the time to try to reason with somebody.
Eventually the anger stops gaining momentum and turns a corner. This is the cooling down stage where the
person generally runs out of energy and, unless provoked, will begin to calm down.
This is not the time to start a conversation or try to reason with them. You can offer supportive behavior but
do not try to resolve the issue that triggered the anger. Only when the person is back to a rational state of
mind should you start talking about the problem.
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In the meantime, there are a few strategies you can employ to de-escalate the anger and expedite the
cooling down process. For the most part, an angry person just wants the opportunity to explain how they
feel and have their feelings acknowledged. If you are genuinely listening to them, it can help reduce their
anger. Be sure to create a comfortable distance between you as, if you are sitting too close, they may feel
stifled. You can guide clients towards taking back some control of the situation by offering them some
choices that may help solve the problem. Ask if they are comfortable with you talking to them. Then ask
what they think you could do to rectify the situation. Invite them to criticize you and ask what has upset
them so you can understand what went wrong.
If you can find a way to agree with your clients then do so. You can always agree to them having expressed
their opinion. This can often de-escalate the situation. Continue to emphasize your willingness to help. It
sometimes helps to tell clients you are willing to listen, but would appreciate it if they could calm down first.
Remember, however, that not all angry reactions can be managed. There may be situations where you have
to politely back away or reschedule another meeting.
If at any point in time you feel intimidated or threatened, then your own personal safety must be your top
priority.
Are You Punishing Your Dog and Making The Behavior Worse?
by Niki Tudge
Many canine behavior problems are a result of fear or anxiety, meaning that the behaviors you actually
observe your dog doing are elicited by fear or anxiety. You cannot resolve these problems by using
punishment and you cannot ‘train them out'.
Let's look at an example:
If your dog is exhibiting distance increasing signals when it sees another dog, such as lunging, barking, or
growling, and the behavior is fear based, then punishing your dog, physically or verbally, is only going to
make the situation worse. We humans tend to escalate punishment if the punishment does not work the
first time. When the punishment becomes very severe it may reduce the barking, lunging or snapping but
by definition punishment only suppresses behavior, it does not eliminate behavior. If you suppress fear or
anxious behaviors through the use of severe punishment then you are left with a ‘ticking time bomb.' At
some point that fear or anxious behavior is going to appear and probably with little warning and with no
predictability.
Here is a human example:
Take something you are afraid of - say a spider or a snake. When you see one you may scream, freeze, run
or cry. If I hit you, shock you or scream at you each time you react in fear to the presence of the ‘thing,' is
my punishment going to stop you from feeling anxious or scared? No, of course it will not. It may reduce or
alter your fear reaction as you now also anticipate getting physically or verbally punished by me. It will
certainly damage our relationship, you will find my presence distasteful and you will no longer trust me. I
am no longer safe to you and have moved into the area of being dangerous and unpredictable.
When we are working with dogs we want all of our communication to be instructional. Punishment is not
instructional. It does not tell a dog what it should do nor does it help build behavior repertoires. In addition,
it does, as scientific research has proven over and over, create many fallout behaviors such as aggression,
learned helplessness and unhealthy attachment behaviors.
You may at this point be saying, "I don't punish my dog." But a punisher or punishment event is not defined
by us, the dog trainer, or the dog's owner.
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A punisher is determined by the dog being punished. Is what you do something the dog will seek to escape
or avoid? If so then what you are doing is punishing your dog. Think about this the next time you shout at
or raise your hand or some other object at your dog.
You cannot train these behaviors to go away. The actual behavior you are seeing is motivated by fear or
anxiety and that requires a different approach to just training a dog to ‘sit,' ‘down' or ‘stay.'
Mounting and Masturbation in Dogs
(Taken from the CAAB newsletter 2014)
Mounting, thrusting (humping) and masturbation are normal behaviors exhibited by most dogs. Dogs
masturbate in various ways. They mount and thrust against other animals, people and objects, such as
wadded-up blankets, dog beds and toys. Sometimes, dogs just rub against people or objects (without
mounting them), or they lick themselves.
Puppies often mount and hump their littermates, other playmates, people and toys. Some experts believe
that this behavior functions as practice for future sexual encounters. As puppies reach sexual maturity, they
start to mount other dogs in sexual contexts. After they’re neutered or spayed, many male and female dogs
continue to mount and even masturbate because they have learned that the behavior feels good.
Intact (not neutered) males will often masturbate if prevented from approaching a female in heat. Often,
during courtship, females in heat mount and hump their male “suitors.” Female dogs also commonly mount
and hump other females when one or both are in heat.
Why Does Your Dog Do It?
Sexual Behavior
Masturbation is part of normal sexual behavior for both altered (spayed or neutered) and intact dogs. Both
male and female dogs mount other dogs, people and objects. Most people don’t realize that this behavior
isn’t limited to intact male dogs, nor do they know that neutered males can display erections and ejaculate
just like intact males. Sexually motivated mounting and masturbation are often accompanied by “flirtatious”
body language and courtship behavior (tail up, ears rotated backward, licking, pawing, play bows, etc.).
Play Behavior
Sexual behaviors, including mounting and thrusting, are part of normal play behavior. Dogs don’t usually
display erections or ejaculate in the context of play. Some poorly socialized or undersocialized dogs
excessively mount other dogs in response to play solicitation. They don’t seem to know how to play well and
get overaroused during play.
Response to Stress or Excitement
Some dogs respond to stressful or exciting situations by mounting or masturbating. For instance, after
meeting a new dog or person, an aroused and excited dog may mount another dog, his owner or a nearby
object, like a dog bed or a toy.
Compulsive Disorders
Masturbating can become a compulsive habit, especially if a dog does it in response to stress. Compulsions
like mounting and masturbating can interfere with a dog’s normal functioning.
Medical Problems to Rule Out
Various medical problems, including urinary tract infections, urinary incontinence, priapism (persistent, often
painful erections) and skin allergies, can influence a dog’s mounting behavior.
These issues can be serious if not properly treated and require medical attention rather than behavioral
treatment. Dogs suffering from one of these or other medical issues often spend a lot of time licking and
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chewing
the genital area. If you notice your dog excessively mounting, licking or chewing himself, or rubbing
his body against things, take him to a veterinarian to rule out medical concerns.
Mounting During Play, in Response to Stress or for Sexual Reasons
If your dog mounts infrequently (once or twice a day at most) and it isn’t bothersome to you, other people or
other dogs, it’s not necessary to stop his behavior.
If your dog’s mounting or masturbation does bother you, other people or other dogs, try to distract your dog.
If you can, get his attention before he starts mounting or masturbating. Some dogs display amorous-looking
behavior before mounting, so if your dog sidles up to something or someone and starts to pant, lick, whine,
paw or rub against the person, dog or object, he may soon start to mount or hump. If you see your dog
performing any of the behaviors above, or if you see him start to mount someone or something, toss a toy,
play a game, give your dog a chewie, or ask him to perform some previously learned basic obedience skills or
tricks that he enjoys (sit, down, shake, etc.).
If you have an intact male dog, consider neutering him. Although neutering doesn’t always stop a dog from
mounting or masturbating, it does reduce his sexual motivation—especially if the behavior is triggered by the
presence of a female dog who’s in heat. Likewise, if you have an intact female dog, consider spaying her. It
might reduce her motivation to hump other dogs, especially if she only mounts when she’s in heat or when
she’s around other female dogs in heat. Spaying or neutering your dog has other benefits, too. It prevents
the birth of unwanted puppies, and it helps prevent serious medical problems like mammary and testicular
cancers.
Be warned: If your dog mounts other dogs, he may get himself into trouble. Many dogs don’t like to be
humped. They might take offense and start a fight with your “amorous” dog. If you have a hump-happy dog,
you might want to teach him to leave other dogs alone when you ask him to.
As soon as you see him preparing to mount another dog tell him to “Leave it.” Remember to reward him if he
does. If he doesn’t, end his play session and work on leave it without other dogs present for a while longer. If
your dog habitually humps other dogs, you can also try teaching him to play games with you so that he’s less
interested in other dogs. Tug and fetch are great!
If your dog has developed a habit of mounting you or other people, discourage him from humping by pushing
him off, turning away, sitting down or somehow adopting a position that prevents him from mounting. If
your dog won’t stop, say “Nope!” and immediately take him to a quiet, safe room for a short time-out. (Make
sure that there aren’t any fun toys for him to play with in the time-out area.) Leave your dog alone for one to
three minutes. When the time-out is over, let your dog out and behave as if nothing happened. There’s no
need to act like you’re angry. If your dog tries to mount again, repeat the sequence above and give your dog
another time-out. If you have to give your dog a time-out more than a couple of times, you may start to have
trouble catching your dog when you say “Nope!” If that’s the case, it will help to clip a lightweight two- to
four-foot leash onto your dog’s collar and let him drag it around at home when you’re there to supervise
him. Then you can pick up the leash when you need to take your dog to his time-out area. Be sure to remove
the leash when you can’t supervise your dog so that it doesn’t accidentally get caught on furniture or get
wrapped around your dog’s legs.
Discouragement by itself won’t prevent mounting from reoccurring. You must also do some preventative
training. You’ll need to teach your dog a behavior that he can perform instead of mounting when he’s around
people—something that he can’t do while humping. Train him to sit on cue, for example.
After your dog readily sits for a treat when you ask him to, you can start using that skill to discourage
humping. As soon as you see your dog start to mount, say “Sit.” If he sits, praise him happily and reward him
with a tasty treat. Then you can ask him to sit a few more times or perform other tricks he already knows.
When your dog has performed some polite behaviors and calmed down a little, you can offer him few
minutes of play with a favorite toy.
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 may alter your dog’s motivational state so that he’s no longer interested in humping. If the humping
This
occurs in specific contexts, such as in response to exciting or chaotic interactions between people (hugging,
greeting, arguing, etc.), ask your dog to sit and stay whenever you do the things that trigger his mounting
behavior. Remember to reward your dog frequently if he behaves politely instead of mounting.
If your dog only mounts when dealing with stressful situations (greeting new people, for example), avoid
those situations whenever possible. If you can’t avoid a situation or thing that makes your dog anxious, try to
reduce his stress as much as you can. For instance, if your dog finds visiting the veterinary clinic stressful,
take him to the clinic for frequent social visits. During these trips to the vet’s office, give your dog plenty of
tasty treats and make sure that nothing unpleasant happens.
After a few weeks or months of occasional “cookie trips” to the vet’s office, your dog will start to enjoy going
there. That change in his feelings will make future visits to the veterinary clinic much less stressful for him. If
your dog becomes anxious when he greets new people, distract him when he encounters strangers so that
the experience is less overwhelming for him. Try teaching your dog to sit for delicious goodies or fetch his
favorite toy when new people visit your home.
Licking
If your dog licks to stimulate himself infrequently (once or twice a day at most) and it isn’t bothersome to
you, it’s not necessary to stop his behavior.
If your dog’s licking behavior does bother you or causes irritation to his skin, try to distract him, preferably as
soon as he starts to lick himself. Toss a toy, play a game, give your dog a chewie or ask him to perform some
previously learned basic obedience skills or tricks that he enjoys (sit, down, shake, etc.). You can also try
moving your dog to a different location.
Compulsive Mounting or Masturbation
As soon as your dog starts to mount or masturbate, try to distract him. Toss a toy, play a game, give your dog
a chewie or ask him to perform some previously learned basic obedience skills or tricks that he enjoys (for
example, sit, down and paw).
Midnight Madness / Kitty Funny Half-Hour
By Louise Thompson Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant.
Accredited in canine, feline, equine and avian behaviour.
It has been given lots of names – from “Midnight Madness” to the “Funny Half Hour” with many nicknames
in-between – (some amusing and some …… well, not so complementary).
Cats can suddenly erupt into a frenzied energy bursts – flying up and down curtains..... Up, up, on, and
away............ nothing stands in their way!
They can bounce in one high leap via couches and other furniture.
Chase games often follow, especially if you have more than one feline friend .............
and of course there can be casualties ......some household ornaments can be at risk.
So lock up the bone china – the cats are out to play!
It is quite remarkable just how inventive a cat can be when utilising our furniture and household
environment for his own personal jungle gym!
Often this wild behaviour is accompanied by vocalisations, hisses and meows in pure excitement – and
certainly very entertaining to watch.
The “mad half hour” syndrome seems to affect most cats at some stage or other.
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House
cats seem to be more prone to this behaviour than their counterparts, who are able to roam
outdoors. It could be simply about expending energy, which is a little more challenging for indoor kept cats.
Often the “funny half hour” seems to have “stops and starts” and various things can trigger it to set off again.
It is also interesting to note that this behaviour is more commonly seen late in the evening. For this reason,
some people even have named it “midnight madness”!
Cats that are happy to stay indoors most of the time are not getting rid of the same kind of physical energy
as outdoor cats. Outdoor cats use a huge amount of energy climbing trees walls and other obstacles. Then
of course the outdoor cat is also probably partaking in the cats favourite pastime – hunting.
A great deal of this kind of behaviour is linked to stalking and hunting. All play behaviour is a prelude to the
real thing. A cat looking for interaction from another cat during these times can become highly excited
(adrenalin driven games) which can spill over into a fight, which thankfully is usually of very short duration.
Indoor cats often can be seen to do things that outdoor cats do but without the lawns, leaves and great
outdoors ...... they seem to adapt and use what they have on hand and what is available. Crashing through
newspapers and paper bags could be seen as rushing through brush and garden leaves. Hiding behind
curtains – stalking and pouncing on whatever passes is also basic kitty ambush tactics.
They also often wriggle back legs and prepare to pounce on imaginary prey – or could it be a shadow?
Phantom shadows seem to be great fun to hunt as is a tiny piece of carpet thread or fluff – or if they are
lucky a moth to stalk and hunt..........
All of the above can be considered domesticated modes of behaviour linked to prey stalking, attacking and
predation in nature, and all of the above are considered to be well within the bounds of normal and
expected behaviour.
First Aid for Cats.
By Louise Thompson
Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant (ABC of SA Feline, Canine, Equine, & Avian).
My initial intention was to write an in-depth, first aid article. What readers would need to purchase in order
to compile the perfect “kitty first aid kit”. I was going to provide in depth information on, how to stop
bleeding; how to take a temperature; how to take a pulse; how to ………
Then it struck me! Kind of, right out of the blue! It dawned on me, that unless you are already an
experienced cat person, proficient handling stressed and injured cats on a regular basis, an article in a
magazine, on cat first aid, is going to be pretty useless in your hour of need! So I decided to put together
some tips of what you WILL need to know, and what you CAN do, to make a difference in a real emergency.
If your cat has suffered any kind of serious trauma it is far more important that you get her to your
veterinarian or trauma centre ASAP, than waste valuable time trying to take a temperature, or find a femoral
artery to try and take a pulse.
Be Prepared
Keep your veterinarian’s office hours and after hours numbers taped securely on the wall or within easy
access of your phone. A good idea is to punch in these emergency numbers into the speed dial facility on
your phone. In an emergency, to start to look up numbers and try to dial on a phone when your worst
nightmare is unfolding around you, can be an almost impossible task, so having these numbers on hand on
speed dial would make this one less thing to panic about.
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Ifyou have a GPS either on your phone or in your car, also log the coordinates/address etc. As you might be a
passenger and have to give directions to your vet which if you are in a panicked or nervous state would be
very difficult to do!
I also strongly suggest that you have a cat transport box ready and stored somewhere that is easily
accessible. Always store it in the same place. A good idea would be to have a large bath towel inside it (in
addition to the normal faux fur bedding) in case you need to cover your traumatised cat with the least
amount of stress before placing her in the carrier for the trip.
What to Do in an Emergency
Stay Calm
Definitely easier said than done! Try a few deep breaths. Breathe in though your nose and out through your
mouth. Remember your cat will sense your panic so try to be as calm as possible.
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Check your Cat’s Breathing.
Is the cat’s breathing rapid, labored, shallow or irregular?
Rapid breathing can indicate shock or lack of oxygen.
Labored breathing could indicate an obstruction or severe chest injury.
Shallow breathing could indicate weakness or chest pain.
Irregular breathing is the most serious respiratory sign, indicating the need for immediate
veterinary attention.
In an emergency
Take off the cat’s collar
If your cat is wearing a flea/tick collar remove that and be sure to take it with you to the emergency
vet rooms.
Clear her airways to ensure that she can breathe.
Don’t forget to check that her nose and throat are clear of any foreign material, blood, or fluids.
Use pressure points or tourniquets to stop or control bleeding.
Give artificial respiration if the cat is not breathing.
 Perform CPR if your cat is in cardiac arrest. Often, a firm blow/tap on the side of the chest, just
behind the shoulder, will work to get the heart beating again. Continue CPR until the cat's heart is
pumping on its own and the cat is breathing.
 Performing CPR while you are on route to the vet or emergency room might be necessary. This
means that you will need someone to drive you to the vet while you continue to administer CPR.
(CPR is not administered just for resuscitation, but to keep the heart pumping blood to the brain
until your cat gets to the vet, so don't give up after a few minutes if she is not revived.)
 Keep the cat warm to avoid shock. Wrap her in a blanket and put her in a box or carrier.
 Move your cat as little as possible to keep from doing additional harm. Cats will naturally assume a
position that causes them the least pain.
 If your cat is unconscious, lift her body to a position in which her head is slightly lower than the rest
of the body.
IMPORTANT NOTICE:
Never give anything to an unconscious cat by mouth.
It is vital that you transport the cat to a vet or veterinary emergency room as soon as possible.
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Myth of tolerant dogs and aggressive wolves refuted
April 21, 2015
Veterinärmedizinische Universität Wien
Summary:
The good relationship between humans and dogs was certainly influenced by domestication. For
long, it was assumed that humans preferred particularly tolerant animals for breeding. Thus,
cooperative and less aggressive dogs could develop. Recently, however, it was suggested that these
qualities were not only specific for human-dog interactions, but characterize also dog-dog
interactions.
Wolves are more tolerant towards conspecifics than dogs. Credit: Copyright Walter Vorbeck
The good relationship between humans and dogs was certainly influenced by domestication. For long, it was
assumed that humans preferred particularly tolerant animals for breeding. Thus, cooperative and less
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aggressive
dogs could develop. Recently, however, it was suggested that these qualities were not only
specific for human-dog interactions, but characterize also dog-dog interactions. Friederike Range and Zsófia
Virányi from the Messerli Research Institute investigated in their study if dogs are in fact less aggressive and
more tolerant towards their conspecifics than wolves.
They carried out several behavioural tests on dogs and wolves. The animals were hand-raised in the Wolf
Science Center in Ernstbrunn, Lower Austria, and kept in separated packs of wolves and dogs. Range and her
colleagues tested nine wolves and eight mongrel dogs.
Dogs express a steeper dominance hierarchy
To test how tolerant wolves and dogs are towards their pack members, pairs consisting of a high-ranked and
a low-ranked animal were fed together. They were fed either a bowl of raw meat or a large bone. While lowranked wolves often defended their food against the high-ranked partner and showed aggressive behaviour
as often as higher-ranked wolves, this was different in dogs. Low-ranked dogs held back and accepted the
threats of the dominant dog. Overall, however, neither wolves nor dogs showed a lot of aggressive
behaviour. If any, they showed threat signs.
"Wolves seem to be more tolerant towards conspecifics than dogs that seem to be more sensitive to the
dominance hierarchy," explains lead author Range. "This was shown by the fact that also low-ranked wolves
can challenge their higher-ranked partners and the dominant animals tolerate it, while in dogs aggression
was a privilege of the higher-ranked partners." "When humans domesticated wolves, they probably chose
the submissive animals that were ready to adjust," says Virányi. Dog-human interactions are more about
living together without conflicts, not about equality. Their ability to respect and follow others made dogs the
ideal partners of humans.
Wolves are more tolerant than dogs
Dogs and wolves are rarely aggressive towards conspecifics. Range draws the following conclusion: "Wolves
are already very tolerant to their conspecifics. This was shown by the fact that high-ranked wolves accepted
the threat behaviours by their lower-ranked conspecifics in the feeding experiment. This tolerance enables
wolf-wolf cooperation which in turn could have provided a good basis for the evolution of human-dog
cooperation."
Story Source: The above post is reprinted from materials provided byVeterinärmedizinische Universität Wien. Note: Materials may
be edited for content and length.
Journal Reference: Friederike Range, Caroline Ritter and Zsófia Virányi. Testing the Myth: Tolerant dogs and aggressive
wolves. Proceedings of the Royal Society B, 2015 DOI: 10.1098/rspb.2015.0220
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Information About Applying for Accreditation with the Animal Behaviour
Consultants of Southern Africa.
Accreditation is awarded on an individual bases, and each application is looked at on its own merit.
Therefore, in some cases, after review of an applicants experience, academic qualifications, etc.
It is possible that an intern applicant, may, on application, be awarded full accreditation status IF the Accreditation
Committee feels that they have adequate, qualifications, experience and capabilities. Therefore not all applicants
will have to undergo an internship! This is decided on an individual basis!
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Please note the following:
The Accreditation Committee is an “ad hoc” Committee, made up of random accredited members who meet
when necessary, to consider applications
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Applications for accreditation for an Internship as an animal behaviour consultant are only open to fully paidup, suitably qualified Associate members of the ABC of SA ©.
Accreditation for an Internship as an animal behaviour consultant is only considered for one species per
application.
Upon formal application for accreditation as an Intern animal behaviour consultant, (after receipt of relevant
documentation) “Internship status” will be awarded at the accreditation committee’s discretion.
At that
time, the Intern consultant will be permitted to practice and charge a fee for conducting behaviour
consultations.
However the Intern consultant must inform the client of their accreditation status (i.e. that there are
undertaking their internship). The fee that the intern consultant charges should be relevant to their
qualifications and experience.
THE NEXT STEP - AWARDING FULL ACCREDITATION STATUS
Internship reviews (prior to full accreditation being awarded) will be conducted regularly, and the Intern will be
considered for full accreditation during the normal renewal of accreditation, yearly or bi yearly, depending on each
individual case, experience etc. and MAY include the following prior to full accreditation being awarded:
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Applicants may (but not necessarily) be invited to attend a personal interview with regard to the
accreditation process.
Applicants may (but not necessarily) be given an actual case to consult, referred by the Accreditation
Committee, to assist with the applicant’s final evaluation.
Applicants may (but not necessarily) be required to have an accredited member of the Accreditation
Committee present during a consultation to assist with the applicant’s final evaluation.
The name Animal Behaviour Consultants of Southern Africa ©, and the ABC of SA © logo, are registered trademarks,
and therefore cannot be used by anyone other than an accredited member of the ABC of SA ©.
ACCREDITATION CRITERIA
The following documents are necessary for consideration for accreditation, and where applicable, for members
applying for an internship with the Animal Behaviour Consultants of Southern Africa ©
1.
Current Curriculum Vitae
a) Full personal identification details, date of birth and ID.
b) Present occupation, school and animal-related, higher educational achievements
such as the various Ethology Diploma’s and courses recommended by the ABC. Example:
- COAPE diploma or the Ethology Consultancy Advanced courses, or a higher university
degree or other recognised academic qualification in ethology.
c) Proof of counselling skills competence (e.g. Lifeline course, Psychology degree or ABC
Introduction to Counselling and Consulting certificate). This is essential as counselling /
people skills are an integral part of solving behaviour problems. Please supply certified
copies of certificates or affidavits to verify.
d) Evidence of regular attendance of courses/seminars/workshops held under the auspices
of the Animal Behaviour Consultants of Southern Africa or other relevant recognised bodies
or associations/organisations. Please supply certified copies of certificates or other proof of
attendance.
e) Pertinent animal-related qualifications, activities or involvements and animal-related
achievements: (e.g. Animal sports, dog shows, canine or equine achievements/disciplines
etc.) Please include certified proof of achievements, certificates or affidavits as well as
dates, durations and contact persons.
f) Evidence of practical experience: A minimum of three years relevant, practical
experience in a professional or semi-professional capacity in an (species specific) animalrelated environment is required. (e.g. animal welfare, stud farms, animal rehabilitation,
veterinary practices, grooming parlours, game farms, kennels, training schools, etc.)
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Please supply comprehensive reference details, duties and activities, dates, duration of
involvement and contact persons.
PLEASE NOTE:
A practical working knowledge of various up to date behaviour modification methodology is essential, and
applicants are expected to have a broad amount of experience and a vast array of skills such as, TTouch,
obedience instruction, clicker training, etc. Accredited ABC’s must possess in depth knowledge, and a wide range
of contemporary behaviour modification tools at their disposal, and a willingness to adapt methods and tools to
each individual case where necessary.
2.
Motivation For Accreditation
Please explain in your own words, why you wish to become an accredited animal behaviour consultant, and
why you think you could contribute as such.
3.
Veterinary Testimonials
Submit a minimum of two references from two independent veterinarians who have
knowledge of your skills and have actually referred cases to you. Apart from being
character references, they must show confidence that they believe that you have the
competence, knowledge, and experience to be in practise. They should also be able to
attest to a positive outcome of such cases. (It is usual to report back to the veterinarian on
cases that were referred.)
4. A
Three Actual Case Studies
These should concern the respective species category in which you wish to become
accredited (e.g. Canine, feline, equine, avian etc.)
Each study should be formatted as a formal, scientific report, / ethological case
study, (such as could be forwarded to a client’s veterinarian) and should include:-
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Identification of problem pet, owner, and environment.
A description of the owner’s perception of the problem behaviour.
After appropriate observations, and the taking of a full, detailed, case history – provide an
ethological and contextual assessment of the problem behaviour.
Resolution. Provide sound, scientific methods, using ethological terminology, including
practical examples of how these methods would be put into practice.
A reasonable / realistic prognosis
What follow up is or would be required
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4. B Please also include a letter / report to the owner, with emphasis on the actual methods
used to modify the
behaviour or solve the problem. The client letter / report should be in layman terminology.
Describe how this was explained to the client, and include a prognosis, follow-up
consultations, and the eventual outcome of the case. Please also provide comprehensive
detail on the ethology of the problem behaviour in a manner the client may comprehend.
Please include the client’s names, addresses and contact details. The clients should be informed of this, and that an
accreditation committee member may possibly contact them for a reference. Please note that client confidentiality
will be maintained as far as possible.
5.
Copies Of The Above: Copies of the above information may be e mailed (MS Word) for
easy distribution to
the Accreditation Committee who may be spread over a large geographical area
(louthomp@mweb.co.za).
6.
Accreditation Fee
Submission of the required documents must include a non-refundable fee of R120.00 to
cover administration costs, payable by cheque or preferably via internet banking.
The ABC © banking details are: Standard Bank, Fourways Crossing, Branch: 009953,
Account Number: 426691679. Please include proof of payment.
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THE ABC OF SA CLIENT COUNSELLING / CONSULTATION
SKILLS COURSE.
One of the most important aspects of our profession, is possessing the skills to interact with clients, and counsel them in
a meaningful way; manage a behaviour consultation, and to be able to provide clients with practical solutions and
problem solving skills with regards many practical aspects of conducting a behaviour consultation.
The ABC has put together an intensive, highly practical client counselling skills course to provide potential and existing
animal behaviour consultants with the skills needed to professionally conduct consultations with clients and conduct
consultations. This course has been complied by experienced consultants with many years of hands on, practical
experience in the field. To help make this course more financially accessible. Students can enrol for (and only pay for)
one module at a time. The cost is R600 per module (payable in advance). To complete all of the modules, you will need
to have already undertaken some ethology / animal behaviour studies.
By using the latest available technology this course is now even more assessable to students. It is a distance-learning
course and comprises of six modules. Each module comprises of: 
notes
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links to video clips on the internet
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links to extra resources on the internet
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an assignment to be completed by the student
Students will be expected to conduct research, and perform role-playing interviews and compile client reports, which are
easy for clients to understand and follow the relevant suggestions provided to resolve behaviour problems.
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MODULE ONE:
Overview of the module
By the end of this module you will:
Understand what you can expect as an animal behaviour consultant
Understand what will be expected from you as an animal behaviour consultant
Understand ethical considerations of the job
Understand legal implications of the job
Understand health and safety issues of the job
Understand insurance requirements
Understand financial implications
Recognise possible problems
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MODULE TWO:
By the end of this module you will be able to:
Understand the need for counselling skills
Listen actively
Understand non-verbal communication
Use the SOLERF method of body language awareness
Ask meaningful questions
Take notes using the SAPO method
Recognise different types of client and understand how to work with them
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MODULE THREE:
By the end of this module you will:
Be familiar with different types of consultation
Understand the advantages and disadvantages of home consultations
Recognise and explain the appropriate use of props in consultations
Implement appropriate safety measures during consultations
Be able to create appropriate consulting rooms and observation areas
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MODULE FOUR:
By the end of this module you will:
Be able to actively observe a dog’s behaviour in a controlled environment
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ABC OF SA NEWSLETTER
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Use non-emotive language to describe what you see
Take meaningful notes of your observations
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MODULE FIVE:
By the end of this module you will:
Understand how to interpret observations using ethological systems
Analyse behaviour patterns
Recognise canine body language
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MODULE SIX:
By the end of this module you will:
Understand how to give meaningful feedback to clients
Prepare a comprehensive written report on your consultation
Prepare a plan of action to resolve behaviour problems
For more details about this course, contact Louise Thompson at louthomp@mweb.co.za
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COAPE Companion Animal Behaviour Courses.
Are you looking for a top level qualification in Animal Behaviour, that’s compiled by internationally acclaimed leaders in
this field? Only the COAPE Diploma and Advanced Diploma will give you this opportunity.
The Diploma is presented in both Johannesburg and Cape Town and the course runs for a period of 2 ½ years
comprising of 9 lecture weekends, logged hours of practical experience, assignments and case studies. Upon completion
of this course you will be invited to join the CAPBT SA where you will be mentored by a qualified Behaviourist until you
feel ready to consult on your own.
Then for the true academic we offer the Advanced Diploma which you can apply to enrol for once you have completed
the Diploma. The Advanced Diploma is independently accredited by the largest academic institute in England.
COAPE SA also offers:
Foundation courses aimed at pet owners and people who have recently offered that “forever home” to a rescue dog or
cat, and want to know how to make the settling in process as stress free as possible as well as preventing any new
behaviour problems from occurring.
Introduction courses in dog behaviour and training, and cat behaviour – these will give the student an insight as to why
dogs and cats behave the way they do. They deal with common behaviour problems and the science of training dogs.
Intermediate courses which explore the inner workings of the canine or feline brain and delve into the fast expanding
field of Animal Cognition.
All the COAPE SA courses are recognised throughout Southern Africa, England and Europe; furthermore the prestigious
COAPE Diploma and Advanced Diploma, as well as the Introductory Dog and Cat courses, have been accredited as
Continuing Professional Development courses by the SA Veterinary Council.
The highly qualified tutors for these courses are:
Karin Pienaar (Landsberg) DipCABT (NOCN UK), CAPBT Practitioner, CertCAB, Accredited ABC Practitioner member.
Wendy Wilson DipCABT (NOCN UK), CAPBT Practitioner, CertCAB, Guild Certified TTouch Practitioner, Accredited ABC Practitioner
member.
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ABC OF SA NEWSLETTER
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Leigh Shenker BADA (HONS) (WITS), DipCABT (NOCN UK), CAPBT Practitioner
Carla Van der Merwe DipVetNurs, DipCABT (NOCN UK), CAPBT Affiliate
Dr Tim Hepplestone BVSc (UP)
Karen Sinovich DipCABT (NOCN UK), CAPBT Practitioner. CCAB (CABI Aus.)
Taryn Blyth DipCABT (NOCN UK), CAPBT Practitioner, CertCAB, Cert Early Canine Development (UP)
Diane Beverley DipCABT (NOCN UK), Cert CAB, CAPBT SA Affiliate member, B.Sc. (Rau), B.Sc. (Hons) (Rau)
Judy Post MSc. (Entomology), CertCAB, Guild Certified TTouch Practitioner.
Susan van der Byl CertCAB.
For details on any of these courses please contact info@coapesa.com or visit our website www.coapesa.com.
WE OFFER A 5% DISCOUNT ON ALL COAPE SA COURSES TO CURRENT MEMBERS OF
ABC SA
Book and DVD List of Material Available at Performance dogs.
All items available to order at www.performancedog.co.za
For all enquiries email: ellen@performancedog.co.za or call 0102350706: See The ABC website
for a full detailed description of each publication.
Training and Behaviour
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CLICKER BASICS FOR DOGS AND PUPPIES BY CAROLYN BARNEY R250.00
RUFF LOVE BY SUSAN GARRETT R200.00
SHAPING SUCCESS BY SUSAN GARRETT R340.00
CONTROL UNLEASHED BY LESLIE MCDEVITT R340.00
CONTROL UNLEASHED :FOUNDATION SEMINAR 4 DVD SET BY LESLIE MCDEVITT R900.00
CONTROL UNLEASHED GAMES DEMO 3 DVD SET BY LESLIE MCDEVITT R775.00
CONTROL UNLEASHED: THE PUPPY PROGRAMME BY LESLIE MCDEVITT R340.00
BARKING- THE SOUND OF A LANGUAGE BY TURID RUGAAS R180.00
BEHAVIOUR ADJUSTMENT TRAINING BY GRISHA STEWART R250.00
CALMING SIGNALS DVD BY TURID RUGAAS R395.00
CANINE BEHAVIOUR BY BARBARA HANDELMAN R590.00
CANINE CROSS TRAINING BY SASHA FOSTER R285.00
CANINE MASSAGE BY JEAN- PIERRE HOURDEBAIGT R320
CHASE! BY CLARISSA VON REINHARDT R250.00
CHILL OUT FIDO BY NAN KENE ARTHUR R210.00
DOG TRAINER’S RESOURCE 1 EDITED BY MYCHELLE BLAKE R340.00
DOG TRAINERS RESOURCE 2 EDITED BY MYCHELLE BLAKE R340.00
DOG TRAINERS RESOURCE 3 EDITED BY MYCHELLE BLAKE R340.00
DOGS ARE FROM NEPTUNE BY JEAN DONALDSON R215.00
DOMINANCE IN DOGS BY BARRY EATON R180.00
FAMILY FRIENDLY DOG TRAINING BY PATRICIA MCCONNELL R215.00
FEELING OUTNUMBERED BY PATRICIA MCCONNELL R160.00
FEISTY FIDO BY PATRICIA MCCONNELL R160.00
FIGHT! BY JEAN DONALDSON R195.00
THE HUMAN HALF OF DOG TRAINING BY RISE VANFLEET R250.00
THE LANGUAGE OF DOGS DVD BY SARAH KALNAJS R570 (DVD)
MINE! BY JEAN DONALDSON R195.00
MY DOG PULLS- WHAT DO I DO? BY TURID RUGAAS R160.00
OH BEHAVE BY JEAN DONALDSON R250.00
ON TALKING TERMS WITH DOGS BY TURID RUGAAS R195.00
PLENTY IN LIFE IS FREE BY KATHY SDAO R180.00
QUICK CLICKS BY MANDY BOOK AND CHERYL SMITH 300.00
RIGHT ON TARGET BY MANDY BOOK AND CHERYL SMITH R270.00
SCAREDY DOG! BY ALI BROWN R290.00
STRESS IN DOGS BY MARTINA SCHOLZ AND CLARISSA VON REINHARDT R195.00
TERRIER CENTRIC TRAINING BY DAWN ANTONIAK MITCHELL R300.00
WHEN PIGS FLY BY JANE KILLON R270.00
CRATE GAMES DVD BY SUSAN GARRETT R485.00
DON’T SHOOT THE DOG BY KAREN PRYOR R180.00
CLICKER TRAINING IN DOGS BY KAREN PRYOR R195.00
PATTERN GAMES DVD BY LESLIE MCDEVITT R395.00
REACTIVITY- A PROGRAMME FOR REHABILITATION DVD BY EMILY LARLHAM R495
DISSECTING THE DYNAMICS OF DOG DOG PLAY BY NICOLE WILDE R495.00
DOG-DOG AGGRESSION BY PATRICIA MCCONNELL R750.00
DO AS I DO DVD BY CLAUDIA FUGAZZA R1115.00
LASSIE COME DVD BY PATRICIA MCCONNELL R395.00
ABC OF SA NEWSLETTER
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REINFORCEMENT STRATEGIES BY KEN RAMIREZ R750.00
INTRO TO BAT DVD BY GRISHA STEWART R340.00
TALK TO THE PAW DVD BY NICOLE WILDE R670.00
WHAT NOT TO ERR- TRAINING MISTAKES THAT CREATE HEADACHES FOR DOGS DVD BY KATHY SDAO
R750.00
THINK DOG BY JOHN FISHER R180.00
DOG TRAINING MADE EASY BY JULIA BARNES R250.00
PUPPY RAISING MADE EASY BY DI WILLIAMSON R250.00
Performance dogs also stocks loads of books and DVD’s on agility and various other
training disiplines & supply various training equipment.
ABC of SA Code of Ethics.
Animal Behaviour Consultants resolve at all times:
To –
1. Offer services for which they are suitably qualified, in a professional manner. If a
case is beyond a consultant’s scope of expertise or experience, it is expected that
consultants refer such cases to a suitably experienced or qualified colleague, or
work in liaison with such consultant.
2. Treat clientele with honesty, confidentiality, understanding and compassion, and
ensure the client is not misled or exploited.
3. Treat the animal (where applicable) in liaison with the referring veterinarian, and be
aware of any potential behaviour problems that may be associated with a
physiological cause. When indicated, prior to a consultation, the consultant should
recommend that the client consult with their veterinarian in order to rule out or
confirm such a possibility.
4. Ensure that the behaviour problem is thoroughly investigated and the animal
concerned fully evaluated.
5. Offer advice, which is practical, and appropriate for each individual case. Such
advice should be based on practical, up to date scientific applications and practices.
6. Avoid any method of treatment, equipment or techniques that inflict physical pain,
intimidation, and / or cause undue psychological/physiological distress.
7. Use methods of behaviour modification and/or training that do not contravene any
section of the Animal Protection Act No 71 of 1962.
8. Encourage responsible companion animal ownership and education, and promote
awareness of animal behaviour wherever possible.
9. Continue to further their own education in their respective animal behaviour field,
and keep abreast of new developments in this science
10. Become familiar and liaise with all relevant aspects of animal industry.
11. Maintain a professional relationship with other organisations in the same field, and
encourage positive interaction and cooperation between organisations, and treat all
professionals, regardless of affiliation with respect.
12. Avoid any actions, which may discredit the A.B.C. or any of its members.
Advertising Space Available.
If any member would like to place an advertisement in each issue of this publication, please
contact me. louthomp@mweb.co.za
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That’s
all for now folks! Please don’t forget to contact me with any news, views, complaints or
criticisms..............
You are welcome to contact me on louthomp@mweb.co.za
We also WELCOME submissions for publication from our members!
Again please e-mail me at the above e-mail address.
Kind regards,
Louise Thompson
(Editor & General Dogsbody for the ABC of SA).
louthomp@mweb.co.za
082-890-0905