Cape Cod House Project
(NOTE: for ease of understanding and for ease in creating components using Sketch-up, we will actually be
building this house out of order. A foundation would normally be built first, then the floor set on the foundation,
then the walls on the floor, then the second level floor would be built, then the second story rooms, then the roof
added. We are going to pretend that we are working in a “manufactured home” factory and that we are building
components that will later be assembled into a home on site.
~ Web sites with more information on each topic are listed below
(If you can’t just click on a site below to open it, copy and paste the url information.)
 frame a wall http://www.indepthinfo.com/frame-wall/anatomy.shtml
 frame a door http://knol.google.com/k/framing-a-wall#
 frame a window http://knol.google.com/k/framing-a-wall#
 more help: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,217320,00.html
Stage I: create basic building components
Using the instructions given in the file, “Anatomy of a wall frame” located in the HS North datafiles
folder, Architecture & Spatial Design Files, “Cape Cod House,” - use Google Sketch-up to…
1. Create a twelve foot wall section with 2x4 studs, a sole plate and a top plate.
(Be sure that your studs are placed 16” apart, measuring center stud to center stud.)
Make the walls 12 feet high. Put double studs at each end. At this point do not add any wall board,
paint or other trim - just assemble the stud walls. Make the wall section a component.
2. Create a 12-foot square floor section with 2x8” studs (in a floor they are called joists) placed 16”
apart, with double joists at each end as shown below and make the floor support structure a
component. Add a plywood “subfloor” and floor boards to the top at this stage and then make the
entire floor segment a component. (You can change the flooring in individual rooms later.)
3. Create a door section and make that a component. (See the web site above for “how to” info.)
4. Create a window section and make that a component. (See the web site above for “how to” info.)
Stage II:
Use the components you have
saved to “build” the walls of
the first floor of a Cape Cod
style house with dimensions as
shown below. Window size
and placement is up to you as
the designer of this home. You
must have the Four doors
shown, the other openings can
be archways.
Once you have set up your
rooms, you may add wall board
and “paint” or “wallpaper” the
walls using Sketch-up
“materials.”
You may use Sketch-up 3-D
warehouse to add realistic
looking door and window components.
Stage III: Floor
Since our house is wider than our 12 foot floor sections, we will need to construct the floor in sections.
The “front” and the “back” can be lined up, but the middle section needs to be staggered for a more stable
structure and so that the ends can be nailed to the bearer beams.
The wider the span between the
supporting structures, the deeper the
joist will need to be if it is not to bend
under load. Lateral support also
increases its strength. There are
approved formulas for calculating the
depth required; however, a general rule
of thumb for calculating the depth of a
wooden floor joist for an average home is half the span in feet plus two inches. For example, the joist
depth required for a 12-foot span would need to be 12 divided by two (6) plus 2 for a total of 8 inches.
(That is why you were instructed to make your floor units out of 2x8” joists.) Our house is 36 feet wide.
You were instructed to make each floor section 12 feet so you can use three sections will span the width
of the house (be sure to stagger the center section). Your center section will be wider than the one shown
above.
1. Use the floor components you have already saved to “build” a floor big enough for your entire
house and then make the completed floor a component.
2. Place the walls of your house onto the floor.
Stage IV – Foundation
1. In google Sketch-up, make a rectangle that is the size of the house and pull it up to a depth of six
inches. This will be the “slab” onto which we will “build” our foundation walls. Make your slab
a component.
2. Next, build your foundation walls using cinder blocks.
Cinder blocks are usually 8x16” and 8” high.
Note: for structural stability, you need to stagger the placement of the cinder blocks as shown.
3. To save in construction costs, some homes are built on a “crawlspace” about 3-4 feet high;
however, for this project, build a full size basement – about 8 feet high.
4. Make your “basement” a component. (Note: many foundation structures also have columns in the
center to add stability. We are not going to add columns for this project.)
5. Place your home on top of your foundation.
Stage V. – prepare for addition of attic space and roof
Use the completed floor component you created in stage I
1. On the bottom of the floor, add wall board &/or ceiling panels (the top should have the flooring that your
added for the first floor level).
2. this will serve as both your first floor ceiling and your attic floor.
3. Before you put it in place, cut an opening for the stairs from the first floor to the attic.
4. When it is ready, make it a component and place it in position on top of your rooms.
Stage VI. – Roof truss – “Roof trusses are triangular structures that provide the support and stability to the
roof and distribute the weight of the roof away from the exterior walls of the building. Trusses are usually made
from wood in residential design and from steel for commercial building design. They take the shape of a triangle
because of that shape’s natural ability to disperse pressure through it’s entire structure making it extremely stable
and rigid.” (http://rooftrussblog.com/)
The History of the Queen Post Truss (downloaded from: http://rooftrussblog.com/queen-post-truss/)
Queen post trusses have been used for many centuries, as they are extremely strong. In previous centuries, builder’s
guides showed illustrations of this type of truss. King post trusses were recommended for short spans of 20 to 30
feet and queen post trusses for larger spans of 30 to 45 feet, although queen post trusses can go up to 60 feet. They
were commonly used in architecture including Craftsman, Tudor, Gothic Revival, Stick and Queen Anne-style
buildings
When to Use a Queen Post Truss (downloaded from: http://rooftrussblog.com/queen-post-truss/)
Queen post trusses should be used when there is a large span that
needs to be covered. They are relatively inexpensive and can be
made to fit almost any size or shape roof. They transfer the weight
load of the roof to the eave posts and allow for a clean, open space
that needs no internal posts that might affect the architectural design
of the building. It provides excellent structural support and can be
adapted and combined with other types of roof trusses.
These types of trusses can provide a striking ceiling design that
differentiates a home. While similar to other types of truss designs, this particular design is capable of supporting a
roof over a greater span.
Note: You should make this beam a separate component
from the rest of the queen post truss. It goes completely
across the building
For this project,
1. create one queen post truss unit 38 feet wide (this will create 1 foot eaves on the front and the back of the
building.), make it a component,
2. copy and paste multiple truss units 24 inches apart from one side to the other side of your building.
3. Make your set of trusses a component.
4. Add plywood panels to the roof area, then add a layer of roof material.
5. Make the whole unit a component.
6. Place your roof unit on top of your house.
Stage VII. – Add siding to exterior of building.
There would normally be insulation, sheets of
exterior grade plywood, a vapor block material and then siding. For purposes of this project just add the siding.
People typically use wood clapboard but you can use vinyl siding or even brick if desired.