Theatre 231a – Costume Construction
Fall 2012
Leah Piehl
310.922.7730 mobile
leahmp@sbcglobal.net
Class Meetings
Tuesday and Thursday – 11:00 a.m. – 12:20 p.m. KAP 147
Office hours: By appointment
Course Objectives
 To understand the lines, silhouettes, and details of fashion from ancient times through the 20 th Century.
 To review progress, politics, art, and world events that help determine the reasons for the clothing styles of
different eras and locations.
 To discuss how style affects character in both life and on the stage.
 To present a comprehensive group report on a focused aspect of fashion/costume history that interests you.
Required Text
SURVEY OF HISTORIC COSTUME: A History of Western Dress
Phyllis G. Tortora & Keith Eubank
Grading Policy
Students are expected to complete all assignments on the date they are assigned. There will be no makeup for the
quizzes, midterm or final exam. You will also be responsible for completing and presenting your research project
on the date you sign up for at the beginning of the semester. If you do not have your research project on the date it
is due, you will not earn points for this assignment.
Grading Scale
The final course grade is based on the following point scale: A=96-100; A-=91-95; B+=88-90; B=85-87; B-=81-84;
C+=78-80; C=75-77; C-=71-74; D+=67-70; D=64-66; D-=61-63; F=60 or below. Point values are assigned to
individual tests, quizzes and projects.
Grading, Attendance, Tardies and more
 Students are expected to arrive at class on time.
 Quizzes will be given at start of class and will last approximately 10 minutes; If you arrive late you will not
be given extra time to complete a quiz
 No more than 3 unexcused absences will be permitted without affecting the student’s grade. If you must
miss class for any reason you are required to let me know in advance of missing the class if you want the
absence to be excused.
 Grading scale
Participation
Quizzes
Midterm Review
Final Review
Research Project
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
Academic Integrity
Dishonesty in any form harms the individual, other students, and the School of Theatre. Therefore, USC policies on
academic integrity will be enforced in this course. Papers (designs) suspected of containing plagiarized material (the
unacknowledged or inappropriate use of another’s ideas, wording, or images) will be verified for authenticity by the
School of Theatre through internet services. I expect you to familiarize yourself with the academic integrity
guidelines found in the current SCampus (www.usc.edu/dept/publications/scampus).
Disability Services
Any student requesting academic accommodations based on a disability is required to register with Disability
Services and Programs (DSP) each semester. A letter of verification for approved accommodations can be obtained
from DSP. Please be sure the letter is delivered to me as early in the semester as possible. DSP is located in STU
301 and is open 8:30 am to 5:00 pm, Monday through Friday. The phone number for DSP is 213-740-0776
Course Assignments
Group Research Project
Research presentations should enhance and bring additional focus and information to an area of costume discussed
this semester. You may choose from a variety of topics within fashion/costume history that I will provide to you. I
will dedicate a full class period to each presentation which must include visuals/images and any media that enhances
the topic. The purpose of this assignment is to educate the class and to gain a deeper knowledge on the subject.
Each group member will be responsible for an equal contribution to the presentation. You will be graded
individually and as a group so your personal contribution will affect everyone’s grade. As part of your presentation,
you must prepare a list of questions for the class that will be answered in your presentation. Make photocopies of
this for the entire class so they can take notes during your presentation. The material from each group presentation
will be tested on the final exam. All material must be accompanied by a bibliography.
Topics include:
1. Technology and Fashion: From the sewing machine to the iphone, how modern society has changed the way we
dress
2. Conformity vs. non-conformity: Fashion and rebellion in the 19th, 20th and 21st centuries
3. Masked cultures: The use of disguise around the world
4. Surrealism and fashion: How the early 20th century art movement defined and shaped fashion
5. Music and fashion: How popular music has impacted mainstream fashion throughout time
6. The culture of beauty: A cross examination of different world cultures and their approach to beautification and
adornment
7. The history of cross-cultural influences on fashion: The import and export of traditional dress
8. Tribal dress: Origins and traditions of tribal costume
9. The spoils of the Royals: A survey of royal excess and wealth though court fashion
Syllabus and Required Reading
You are expected to read assigned pages prior to meeting for class; Quizzes will be based upon the assigned reading.
Reading assignments are listed on the day they are due.
Aug. 28 Introduction to Course
Aug. 30
What is the history of costume?
Sept. 4
meet in groups to discuss group projects and assign topics
Sept. 6
develop a plan and begin research for group projects
pg. 1 - 10
DUE TUESDAY SEPT 11 - each group must turn in an outline detailing their plan for research and completion of
group presentations including each members specific area of interest
THE ANCIENT WORLD
Sept 11 3500 B.C. – A.D. 300
Mesopotamia Costume 3500 – 600 B.C.
Sept. 6
Egyptian Costume / 3000 – 300 B.C.
pg. 13 – 31
pg. 19 – 31
pg. 31– 47
CRETE AND GREECE
Sept. 18
Minoan and Mycenaean Costumes 2900 -1150 B.C. pg. 51 – 57
Greek Costume 800 – 300 B.C.
pg. 57 - 72
ETRURIA AND ROME
Sept. 20
Etruscan Costume 800 – 200 B.C.
Roman Costume 500 B.C. – A.D. 400
pg. 75 – 80
pg. 80 – 87
THE MIDDLE AGES
Sept. 25
Byzantine Era A.D. 300 –1453/Fall of the Roman Empire
pg 107-121
THE LATE MIDDLE AGES
Sept. 27
10th through 12th Century
13th Century
pg. 121 – 134
pg. 134 – 143
Oct. 2
Research Presentation
Oct. 4
Research Presentations
THE RENAISSANCE
Oct. 9
14th Century
15th Century
Oct. 11
Midterm
Oct. 16
Overview / The Italian Renaissance
15th and 16th Century Costumes
Oct. 18
Oct. 23
Overview / The Northern Renaissance
16th Century /Costumes for Men
16th Century / Costumes for Women & Children
pg. 145 - 156
pg. 156 – 173
pg. 181 - 201
pg. 203 – 215
pg. 215 - 226
Research Presentations
Oct. 25 Research Presentations
THE BAROQUE & ROCOCO
Nov. 30 17th Century
pg. 237 - 263
Nov. 1
18th Century & The Directoire Period and the Empire
Period 1790 - 1820
pg. 265 - 293
pg. 295 - 325
Nov. 6
The Romantic Period 1820 - 1850
The Crinoline Period 1850 – 1869
pg. 327 – 352
pg. 353 - 376
Nov. 8
Research Presentations
Nov. 13 Research Presentations
Nov. 20 The Bustle Period and the NIneties
pg. 379 - 409
Nov. 22 Thanksgiving Break
Nov. 27 1900 - 1920
Nov. 29 The twenties, thirties and WWII
Dec. 4
The New Look
pg. 417 - 445
pg 447 - 493
pg. 495 - 527
Dec. 6
Review
FINAL EXAM Tuesday Dec. 18 8 – 10 am