PHT 464 (practical)
1
PHT 464
SHAMPOOS
1. Shampoo Paste or Cream
Rx
Sodium lauryl sulfate needles
(82% active matter)
cetyl alcohol
water
prepare 25 g.
***** F= 25/1000 =0.025
450 g
50g
500g
Procedure:
1. Melt cetyl alcohol in a porcelain dish over water bath at 75-80oC.
2. Dissolve SLS in the amount of water, place over water bath (75-80oC) to heat.
N.B., add SLS gradually to warm water with stirring to form a thick suspension.
3. Add 2 to 1 gradually (on water bath) with gentle stirring. Cool to 40-45oC.
Notes:
 Mixing should be gentle and prolonged stirring should be avoided because
aeration makes the finished product spongy and less firm.
 Filling into containers should be made whilst still warm to help give a firm
product with an attractive appearance.
Role of each ingredient:
 SLS: a detergent.
 Cetyl alcohol: a builder.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------2. Dandruff Shampoo
Rx
Alkyl trimethyl ammonium bromide
Cetyl alcohol
Water
Send 25 g.
****** F =25/1000 = 0.025
150g
150g
700g
Procedure:
1. In a porcelain dish, melt cetyl alcohol over water bath (75-80oC).
2. Dissolve alkyl trimethyl ammonium bromide in the amount of water, heat on the
same water bath.
3. Add 2 to 1 gradually, with gentle stirring until a homogenous cream is formed.
How to use:
 The hair is first wetted with water, and about a teaspoonful of the cream is
managed well into the scalp with the fingers. (An extensive lather is not obtained).
 The hair is then rinsed, and the application is repeated until lather is produced and
the hair is rinsed with warm water.
PHT 464 (practical)
2
HAIR CONDITIONERS
I.
Preparation for Wet Hair:
Rx
Stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride
35
Cetyl alcohol
25
Mineral oil
5
Water
935
Perfume
0.3-0.5%
Methyl paraben
0.15%
Sig. one part cream is added to 5 parts of warm water before use.
Prepare 25 g.
**** F =25/1000 =0.025
Procedure:
1. In a porcelain dish, melt cetyl alcohol over water bath (75-80oC), then add
mineral oil.
2. Dissolve the quaternary ammonium compound (cetrimide can be used if the
compound is not available) in the amount of water, heat on the same water bath.
3. Add 2 to 1 gradually, with gentle stirring (to avoid incorporation of air) until a
homogenous cream is formed.
4. Continue stirring until cooling, and then add perfume at 35oC.
How to use:
1) One part cream is added to 5 parts of warm water before use.
2) Apply with hands over towel-dried hair and distribute evenly by combing.
3) Leave on hair for few minutes and then rinse off with warm water.
Role of each ingredient:
1. Stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride: is the active ingredient which get
adsorbed onto the hair fiber from the cream and retained on rinsing. Also, it
removes the static charge and reduces friction between hair strands so that the
hair will be easily handled and manageable.
2. Cetyl alcohol: gives body to the cream and produce a firm product.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------II.
Acid Conditioning Cream:
Rx
Cetyl alcohol
150g
Sodium lauryl sulfate
5g
Citric acid
20g
Water
825g
Perfume
0.3-0.5%
Methyl paraben
0.15%
Prepare 25 g.
**** F=25/1000 =0.025
Procedure:
1. In a porcelain dish, melt cetyl alcohol over water bath (75-80oC).
2. Dissolve SLS in 10 ml of water, heat on the same water bath.
3. Add 2 to 1 gradually, with gentle stirring (to avoid incorporation of air) until a
stable cream is formed.
4. Dissolve citric acid in the remaining water and add to the cream.
5. Continue stirring until cooling, and then add perfume at 35oC.
PHT 464 (practical)
3
LIPSTICKS
Formula of lipstick
Rx
Carnuba wax
Bees wax
Lanolin
Cetyl alcohol
Castor oil
Pigment (Sudan III or Carmine)
Perfume
Send 4 lipsticks.
Calculations:
o Number required
o Total weight
o F=
10g
15g
5g
5g
65g
0.3g
q.s.
=
=
Procedure:
1. Lubricate the mould with soap lubricant, and invert to drain the in excess.
2. In a porcelain dish, melt carnuba wax, bees wax, lanolin and cetyl alcohol on a
water bath.
3. In a beaker, heat castor oil over the same water bath to 75 oC, then dissolve
Sudan III (oily soluble) to give the red colour.
4. Add castor oil and Sudan III mixture while hot to the melt in # 2. Mix well.
5. Pour the mixture into the mould while hot, make overfilling to avoid contraction
of the base on cooling, and then leave to cool. Remove the excess and smooth
the surface.
Notes:
 The amount of Carnuba wax can be replaced by bees wax. Then the total bees
wax to use is 25 g.
 Liquid paraffin (5-10%) can be added for glossy appearance. So use castor oil
(55g) with liquid paraffin (10g).
 Lanolin is an emollient which has a plasticizing effect, improve spreading and
increase thickness and stability of the film.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
PHT 464 (practical)
4
TOILET POWDERS
I. Light type face powder
Rx
Zinc stearate
70g
Zinc oxide
100g
Light CaCO3
200g
Talc
630g
Send 20 g.
*** F =20/1000=0.02
-------------------------------------------------------------------II. Medium type face powder
Rx
Zinc stearate
70g
Zinc oxide
100g
Titanium dioxide
20g
Light CaCO3
200g
Talc
610g
Send 20 g.
*** F =20/1000=0.02
-------------------------------------------------------------------III. Heavy type face powder
Rx
Magnesium stearate 50g
Light kaolin
200g
Zinc oxide
150g
Light CaCO3
400g
Talc
200g
Send 20 g.
*** F =20/1000=0.02
Procedure:
All powder ingredients in each prescription should be finely powdered individually,
and then mixed geometrically, in a mortar with a pestle.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
PHT 464 (practical)
5
DENTAL PREPARATIONS
TOOTH PASTES
Tooth paste I
Rx
Dicalcium phosphate
600g
Sodium lauryl sulfate
25g
Glycerin
200g
Propylene glycol
175 ml
Saccharine sodium
5g
Gum tragacanth mucilage 2%
10ml
Menthol
0.2g
Peppermint oil
5ml
Preservative
q.s.
Water
105g
Prepare 25 g.
***** F = 25/1000 = 0.025
Procedure:
1. In a porcelain mortar, mix dicalcium phosphate with gum tragacanth mucilage,
and then levigate with glycerin.
2. Dissolve sodium lauryl sulfate and saccharine sodium in the amount of water, and
then add propylene glycol.
3. Add 2 to 1 with continueous mixing until a homogeneous paste is produced.
4. Dissolve menthol in peppermint oil, and then add to the paste with stirring.
5. Pass the paste through a three roller mill for size reduction.
-------------------------------------------------------------------Tooth paste II
Rx
Dicalcium phosphate
350g
Calcium carbonate
140g
Glycerin
200g
Gum tragacanth mucilage 2%
12ml
Saccharine sodium
0.5g
Sodium lauryl sulfate
100g
Peppermint oil
q.s.
Preservative
q.s.
Water
198g
Prepare 25 g.
***** F = 25/1000 = 0.025
Procedure:
1. In a porcelain mortar, mix dicalcium phosphate and calcium carbonate with gum
tragacanth mucilage, and then levigate with glycerin.
2. Dissolve sodium lauryl sulfate and saccharine sodium in the amount of water.
3. Add 2 to 1 with continueous mixing until a homogeneous paste is produced.
4. Add peppermint oil to the paste with stirring.
5. Pass the paste through a three roller mill for size reduction.
Label: Red
Tooth Paste
To be used as directed.
Name:
Date:
PHT 464 (practical)
6
SHAVING CREAMS
I. Brush Shaving Cream Formula
Rx
Stearic acid
Coconut oil
Glycerol
Pot. Hydroxide
Sod. Hydroxide
Borax
Menthol
Perfume
Water
Send 20 g.
*** F =20/100 = 0.2
33.1g
9.12g
19.41
7.13g
0.86g
0.59g
0.21g
0.91g
28.67g
Procedure:
1. Heat the fatty acids (stearic and coconut) in a porcelain dish to 75-80 oC.
2. Dissolve pot.hydroxide, sod.hydroxide, borax and glycerol in water, then heat to
the same temperature.
3. Add # 2 to the fat melts in # 1 with slow stirring. Stirring is continued for 15-20
minutes at 75-80 oC on water bath.
4. Remove from heat and stir every 5 min for about 10-15 min.
5. Dissolve menthol in perfumed oil and stir their solution in the cooled cream.
Notes:
 A combination of stearic acid and coconut oil is used to produce the necessary
lathering properties.
 Glycerol is a humectant added to improve the wetting properties and soften the
beard.
 KOH and NaOH are added for saponification of the fatty acids.
 Borax reduces the variations that occur in the shaving cream with changes in
temperature conditions during storage.
 Menthol gives cooling effect on the skin.
-------------------------------------------------------------------II. Brushless Shaving Cream Formula
Rx
Stearic acid
Pot. Hydroxide
Liquid paraffin
Lanolin
Glycerol
Perfume and preservative
Water
to
Send 25 g.
*** F =25/100 = 0.25
Water =
15g
1g
4g
2g
4g
q.s.
100g
PHT 464 (practical)
Procedure:
1. Melt stearic acid then lanolin in a porcelain dish at 75-80 oC. Then add liquid
paraffin.
2. Dissolve pot.hydroxide in glycerol and water mixture, then heat to the same
temperature.
3. Add # 2 to the fat melts in # 1 with gradually with slow stirring for 10 min.
4. Remove from heat and stir until cool.
Uses:
Used to keep the beard soft for the duration of shave.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
7
PHT 464 (practical)
8
EYE MAKE UP
Emulsion – Type Eye Shadow
Rx
Stearic acid
Triethanolamine
Petrolatum
Lanolin
Propylene glycol
Pigment (methylene blue)
Perfume
Water
Send 20 g.
**** F=20/100=0.2
16g
4g
25g
5g
5g
q.s.
q.s.
45g
Procedure:
1. Melt stearic acid, petrolatum, and lanolin on water bath at 75-80 oC.
2. Dissolve triethanolamine and propylene glycol in water, and heat to the same
temperature. Dissolve pigment in aqueous phase if it is water soluble and in
oily phase if oil soluble. Methylene blue is water soluble.
3. Add #2 to the melts in #1 gradually with stirring until a homogenous emulsion
is produced. Continue stirring until complete cooling.
-------------------------------------------------------------------INSECT REPELLENTS
Insect repellent formula
Rx
Dimethyl phthalate
Mg stearate
Zn stearate
Send 20 g.
**** F=20/1000=0.02
750 ml
150 g
100 g
Procedure:
1. In a porcelain dish, mix Mg stearate and Zn stearate with DMP to make a paste.
2. Heat the paste on water bath with gentle stirring until the mixture becomes of a
creamy consistency.
3. Remove from water bath and continue stirring until cooling.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
PHT 464 (practical)
9
ANTIPERSPIRANTS AND DEODORANTS
Preparation of deodorant stick
Rx
Stearic acid
3.4 g
Sod.hydroxide
0.6 g
Dist.water
1g
Glycerol
7.5 g
Cetrimide
0.75 g
Ethanol
75 ml
Perfume
q.s.
Send 20 g.
**** F=20/100=0.2
Procedure:
1. Melt stearic acid in a porcelain dish over water bath at 75-80 oC.
2. Dissolve sod. Hydroxide and cetrimide (germicidal) in water-glycerol mixture.
Heat to the same temperature.
3. Add half amount of ethanol to the melted stearic acid with stirring.
4. Add solution in #2 to #3 gradually with stirring.
5. Wash the container of sod.hydroxide-cetrimide solution with the 2nd half of
ethanol and add to stearic acid mixture in #4. This step should take about 5
min to avoid volatilization of alcohol.
6. Add perfume, and then pour quickly into the stick container (small beaker)
and leave to cool and solidify.
Notes:
 Deodorant sticks are prepared in a manner based on the gelling of alcohol with
sodium stearate.
 To obtain a bright and clear near-transparent product, it is essential to use a high
quality grade of sodium stearate.
-------------------------------------------------------------------Preparation of antiperspirant cream
Rx
Stearic acid
14 g
Bees wax
2g
Liquid paraffin
1g
Polysorbate 80
5g
Al-chlorhydrate
20 g
Perfume & preservative
q.s.
Dist.water
58 g
Send 25 g.
**** F=25/100=0.25
Procedure:
1. Melt stearic acid, bees wax on water bath at 75-80 oC, and then add liquid
paraffin.
2. Mix Al-chlorhydrate (astringent) with water by aid of polysorbate 80 (tween
80). Heat the mixture to the same temperature.
3. Add #2 to the melts in #1 gradually with trituration until a uniform cream is
produced.
4. Remove from heat and continue stirring until cooling and a cold elegant
emulsion is obtained.
5. Perfume and pack in the container (roll-on type).
PHT 464 (practical)
10
SKIN PREPARATIONS FOR THE FACE AND HANDS
Cold cream formula
Rx
Mineral oil
450
Bees wax
160
Borax
x
Water
380
Perfume
q.s.
Preservative q.s.
Send 20 g.
*** F = 20/1000 = 0.02
N.B., acid value (A.V.) of bees wax = 20
m.wt. of borax = 381.43
m.wt. of NaOH = 40
m.wt. of KOH = 56.11
Procedure:
1. Melt bees wax on water bath at 75-80 oC, and then add mineral oil.
2. Dissolve borax in the amount of water, and heat to the same temperature.
3. Add #2 to #1 gradually with stirring on water bath for 5 min for complete
emulsification.
4. Remove from water bath and continue stirring until cooling.
Calculation of the amount of borax:
 Acid value (AV); is defined as the number of mg of KOH required to neutralize 1
gm of oil or fat. (N.B., since there is no free fatty acids in mineral oil, so we
calculate only for bees wax).
 Na2B4O7 + 8 H2O  4 H3BO4 (boric acid) + 2 NaOH + H2O (eq. #1)
i.e., 1 mole borax  hydrolysis  2 mole NaOH ≡ 2 mole KOH, because the acid
value is calculated in terms of KOH (mg required to neutralize the free fatty acids in
the cream).

For bees wax, AV = 20, which means that:
20 mg KOH ≡ 1 g bees wax
x mg KOH ≡ 3.2 g bees wax (amount needed for the Rx)
3.2  0.02
Then x =
= 0.064 g KOH.
1
 The amount of KOH calculated has to be converted into borax:
1 mole of borax ≡ 2 moles NaOH
(from eq.#1)
381.43 g borax ≡ 2 × 56.11 g KOH
x g borax ≡ 0.064 g KOH
0.064  381.43
Then, amount of borax required =
= 0.218 g Borax.
2  56.11
--------------------------------------------------------------------
PHT 464 (practical)
11
Cleansing cream formula
Rx
Mineral oil
Stearic acid
Lanolin
Triethanolamine
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Send 20 g.
*** F= 20/1000 = 0.02
550
100
50
12.5
337.5
q.s.
q.s.
Procedure:
1. Melt stearic acid on water bath at 75-80 oC, and then add lanolin and mineral
oil.
2. Dissolve triethanolamine in the amount of water, and heat to the same
temperature.
3. Add #2 to #1 gradually with stirring on water bath for 5 min for complete
emulsification.
4. Remove from water bath and continue stirring until cooling. Then add the
perfume.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
PHT 464 (practical)
12
VANISHING CREAM
Vanishing cream formula
Rx
Stearic acid
150
Pot.hydroxide
x
Glycerin
50
Water
790
Send 25 g.
Notes:
Purity of KOH = 70.4 %.
m. wt of stearic acid = 284.5
m.wt of KOH = 56.11
N.B., 1 mole stearic acid reacts with 1 mole KOH.
Calculations:
1. Calculation of amount of KOH needed:
Amount of stearic acid to be saponified = 150 
25
= 37.5 g
100
KOH needed
m.wt...of ..alkali
amt..of ..stearic..acid ..to..be..saponified
100
=


m.wt..stearic..acid
no..of ..mol..of ..alkali.. per..equation
purity..of ..alkali
=
56.11 37.5 100


= 10.5 g KOH.  mutiply by F  = 0.263 g KOH.
284.5
1
70.4
2. Factor = 25/1000 = 0.025
Procedure:
1. Melt stearic acid on water bath at 75-80 oC.
2. Mix glycerin with water and then dissolve KOH in the mixture, and heat to the
same temperature.
3. Add #2 to #1 gradually with stirring on water bath for 5 min for complete
emulsification.
4. Remove from water bath and continue stirring until cooling.
-------------------------------------------------------------------Foundation cream formula
Rx
Lanolin
2
Cetyl alcohol
0.5
Stearic acid
10
Pot.hydroxide
x
Glycerin
8
Water
79
Send 25 g.
Notes: 21% of stearic acid is to be saponified.
Purity of KOH is 96%.
PHT 464 (practical)
13
Calculations:
1. Calculation of amount of KOH needed:
Amount of stearic acid to be saponified = 10 
21
= 2.1 g
100
m.wt of KOH according to the purity:
96 g  100
56.11 g  x
then x = 58.44
Since 1 mole stearic acid reacts with 1 mole KOH,
Therefore,
284.5 g stearic reacts with 58.44 g KOH
2.1 g stearic reacts with x g KOH
2.1  58.44
Then, x =
=0.43 g KOH  mutiply by F  = 0.11 g KOH.
284.5
2. Factor = 25/100 = 0.25
Procedure:
1. Melt stearic acid and cetyl alcohol on water bath at 75-80 oC.
2. Mix glycerin with water and then dissolve KOH in the mixture, and heat to the
same temperature.
3. Add #2 to #1 gradually with stirring on water bath for 5 min for complete
emulsification.
4. Remove from water bath and continue stirring until cooling.
-------------------------------------------------------------------Comparison between cold and vanishing creams
properties
Cold cream
Emulsion Type
Oil content
Water content
Emulgent
Time of use
Appearance
Humectants
Cooling effect
w/o
45-80 %
25 %
Bees wax, glyceryl monostearate
Night
Shiny (not easily disappear)
Not incorporated
Provides cooling sensation
Vanishing cream
o/w
15-35 %
80 %
Alkali soap
Day time
Matty (disappear rapidly)
Incorporated
No cooling effect
--------------------------------------------------------------------
PHT 464 (practical)
14
ACNE VULGARIS PREPARATIONS
Acne cream formula
Rx
Sulphur
Resorcinol
Pot.hydroxide
Stearic acid
Glycerol
Perfume & preservative
Water
to
Prepare 25 g.
*** F = 25/100 = 0.25
Water =
5
2
0.74
15
5
q.s.
100
Procedure:
1. Melt steraic acid on water bath at 75-80 oC.
2. Mix glycerin with water, and then dissolve KOH in the mixture and heat to the
same temperature.
3. Add #2 to #1 gradually with stirring on water bath for 5 min for complete
emulsification.
4. Add the fine powders of sulphur and resorcinol (grind if necessary in a mortar)
to the prepared cream, mix well.
5. Remove from water bath and continue trituration until cooling.
Note: This cream should be applied to the infected parts of the skin without
inunctions ‫المسح‬.
-------------------------------------------------------------------Acne lotion formula
Rx
Resorcinol
4g
Precipitated Sulphur
4g
Zinc oxide
2g
Calamine
5g
Glycerol
10ml
Alcohol
40ml
Water
to
100ml
Prepare 30 ml.
*** F = 30/100 = 0.3
Water =
Procedure:
1. Make fine powdering to sulphur, zinc oxide and calamine in a porcelain
mortar.
2. Wet the above ingredients with glycerin to make a fine paste.
3. Dissolve resorcinol in about 2/3 the amount of water (10 ml).
4. Add #3 to #2 dropwise with trituration to obtain a smooth paste (the paste
should be fine and smooth so it will not irritate the skin).
5. add the amount of alcohol and complete to volume with water,
PHT 464 (practical)
Notes:
1. Resorcinol:
 Soluble 1 in less than 1 of water.
 Has an antipruritic, exfolative and keratolytic property.
2. Sulphur:
 Keratolytic and mild antiseptic.
 Practically insoluble in water.
3. Zinc oxide:
 Mild astringent.
 Insoluble in water and in alcohol.
4. Calamine:
 Mild astringent.
 Insoluble in water.
5. alcohol:
 Facilitates drying of the lotion.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
15
PHT 464 (practical)
16
Sunscreen cream
Rx
Stearic acid
Cetyl alcohol
Lanolin
Glycerin
Sod. hydroxide
Pot. hydroxide
Salicylamide or calamine
Water
Perfume
Send 25 g.
15
0.5
2
5
0.18
0.5
1.32
75
q.s.
Procedure:
1. Melt stearic acid, cetyl alcohol and lanolin on water bath at 75-80 oC.
2. Dissolve KOH and NaOH in water-glycerol mixture, and heat to the same
temperature.
3. Add #2 to #1 gradually with stirring on water bath for complete emulsification.
4. Remove from water bath and continue stirring until cooling.
5. Add calamine powder (make it fine in a mortar) to the formed cream and
triturate until smooth and cool. Then add the perfume.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
PHT 464 (practical)
17
Cleansing lotion formula
Rx
Stearic acid
Mineral oil
Bees wax
Triethanolamine
Water
5.34
35
2
2.66
55
Send 25 g.
*** F= 25/100 = 0.25
Procedure:
1. Melt bees wax on water bath at 75-80 oC, and then add stearic acid and mineral
oil.
2. Dissolve triethanolamine in the amount of water, and heat to the same
temperature.
3. Add #2 to #1 gradually with stirring on water bath for 5 min for complete
emulsification.
4. Remove from water bath and continue stirring until cooling. Transfer to a bottle
and fix a label.
N.B., ** The soap of triethanolamine stearate is an effective emulsifier.