Mama Testa Brings a New Generation
of Old-Fashioned Mexican Cooking to
Hillcrest
From the deserts of Baja California to the
mountains of Guerrero to the beaches of Yucatan,
one thing remains constant among Mexican
families; their true love of tacos. Now San
Diegans, natives and new comers, can experience
the true flavor and style of an authentic taco. If
you’ve ever visited Mexico and longed for the
essence of what is traditional and true. Mama Testa
will bring it all back to you.
Cesar Gonzalez is the owner and General Manager.
He knows all about authentic Mexican cooking. He
ought to. He was born and grew up in the central
state of Guanajuato, Mexico; which is about 22
miles northwest of Mexico City. Guanajuato is also
the name of its old city whose heyday was in the
17th and 18th century when the largest silver mine
was discovered, which at that time produced over
one-third of all the silver in the world. The City is
an example of the old Colonial Spanish town with
narrow, cobblestone streets and narrow alleys, with
several cathedrals.
It is home of the famous Diego Rivera, the artist
and muralist who studied with Picasso and later
achieved fame for his colorful historic murals
depicting the history of Mexico through its earth,
farmers and laborers, as well as his Festival, named
in honor of Miguel de Cervantes, which is a three
week long festival in October where artists perform
in recitals, concerts, plays, ballets, modern dance,
opera and art exhibits.
Gonzalez brought with him the colorful décor that
reminds a person immediately of Mexico-brightly
colored walls, tables and chairs. The very bright
colors are traditional red, yellow blue and green.
The walls are decorated with Mexican sculptures
and art.
Gonzalez emphasizes his “authentic” cooking from
the various states of Mexico. The Al Vapor style
tacos are small tortillas filled with a variety of items
and cooked in a steamer. This style was developed
back in Guanajuato when food was prepared for the
silver miners. The tacos were cooked, wrapped in a
cloth then lowered into the mines. By the time the
miners ate the tacos; they were steamed from the
cloth and had a new flavor.
Other tasty dishes include Guisados, which are
large tortillas served with various types of stews
“Chilango” or Mexico City style and Callejeros, or
street tacos originally from the northern states of
Monterrey and Chihuahua. Tacos Ahogados are
fried rolled beef or chicken tacos covered in beef or
chicken broth “Guerrero” style, to Al Pastor
(marinated thin pork slow roasted in onions and
pineapple for 24 hours) served in a short time
interval to serve people there who are living a fastpaced existence and don’t take much time for their
lunches.
Chorizo (Mexican sausages) and carnitas (pork) are
made fresh every day. Cilantro, onions and red
tomatillo salsa are constants in any meal, and
Gonzalez uses only the freshest produce and
ingredients brought in from Mexico. Mama Testa
has a large collection of Mexican movies and
novelas (soap operas) that he shows daily. Futbol
(soccer) games are televised on weekends.
Article
taken
from
HILLCREST
HIGHLIGHTS, May 2004 issue.