Northern Forest Canoe Trail’s
Montgomery Marvels: Mountains & Missisquoi
Paddle & Hike Itinerary
(Two Days & Two Nights)
Guidebook authors Christina Tree & Diane E. Foulds describe the area around Montgomery Center
in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom as “big sky farm and logging country with isolated mountains and
unexpectedly high passes. It has a haunting quality.” They characterize local business owners and
residents as “self-sufficient natives and the interesting kind of people who tend to gather in the
world’s beautiful back-and-behind places.” (An Explorer’s Guide: Vermont, The Countryman Press,
Woodstock, Vermont) What could be a better setting for a getaway marked by exploring majestic
mountains and drifting down a calm, lazy river?
In Montgomery Center you’ll find great dining and lodging establishments run by hearty souls who
appreciate the area’s natural wonders. The *Northern Forest Canoe Trail’s Missisquoi River, running
northwest of Montgomery Center, threads through rolling hills and pastoral farmland, offering a
peaceful calm-water paddle. The mountainous Hazen’s Notch Association offers trails through woods
and meadows, providing stunning views of Jay Peak. A ride on the Aerial Tram to Jay Peak’s summit
yields breathtaking vistas of this hauntingly beautiful landscape.
All this is outlined in the following two day / two night itinerary. To adapt the itinerary or create a
custom trip, simply visit the Northern Forest Canoe Trail’s online Trip Planner.
Before You Go:
 Purchase online the Northern Forest Canoe Trail’s Section 5 Map: Missisquoi River to Lake
Memphremagog, which provides a visual guide for your paddling experience, as well as great
background information on the area’s human and natural history.
 Make lodging reservations for either Phineas Swann Bed and Breakfast Inn or The Coach House.
 Make reservations for your paddling tour, rental, or shuttle needs with either Montgomery
Adventures, Vermont Tour and Charter or Bert’s Boats. (Read on for information about their
services.)
 Contact Jay Peak Resort to confirm operations of the Aerial Tram on your trip dates.
 Make necessary gear and safety arrangements in conjunction with your chosen outdoor
activities.
 Optional activity: Click here to view and print information on the locations of the Six
Covered Bridges of Montgomery.
Afternoon Arrival
Arrive in Montgomery Center in the afternoon. Begin by strolling past the Victorian homes on
Main Street, or even taking a driving tour of the Six Covered Bridges if you have time. If you need to
purchase gear for your activities, consider shopping at First Trax.
1
Have dinner at The Belfry, a classic New England dining establishment with a lodge-like atmosphere,
or the chef-owned Bernie’s, with its mix of Italian and Mexican homemade specialties. If you prefer
a pub experience, stop for dinner and a beer at the Snowshoe Lodge and Pub on Main Street.
If luxury accommodations are your preference, spend the night at Phineas Swann Bed and Breakfast Inn,
and be awed by an extensive collection of antique canine memorabilia; and then delighted by a
scrumptious homemade breakfast featuring specialties such as banana walnut pancakes and
raspberry stuffed French toast made with homemade potato bread.
As an alternative from the affordable accommodations category, consider vacation rental apartments
in The Coach House, where you’ll have the opportunity to prepare your own meals if you prefer.
Both lodging options offer amenities such as high-speed internet.
Day One: Missisquoi River Paddling
Begin your day on Main Street with a classic hot
breakfast and homemade baked goods at either
Bernie’s (mentioned above) or Trout River Traders,
with its Vermont country store atmosphere.
Next you’ll head out for a half or full day on the
Missisquoi River. If you’ve got your own
boat(s) and simply need a shuttle, consider
hiring Vermont Tour and Charter. To rent a
boat(s) and shuttle yourself, contact Montgomery
Adventures or Bert’s Boats.
Credit: Lisa Dyslin
For a guided paddle (boats and shuttling
included), you’ll want to hire Montgomery Adventures, Bert’s Boats or Brooks to Bays Nature Tours. For a
long day on the river (16 miles; approximately 6-7 hours), you’ll begin in Richford and paddle to
Enosburg Falls. For a half day, split the journey by going from Richford to East Berkshire (6.5
miles of calm water); or East Berkshire to Enosburg Falls (a longer option - 9.5 miles of calm water
with one portage). Bert’s Boats can provide more detailed information on your tour options for both
trips. Refer to the NFCT’s Section 5 Map: Missisquoi River to Lake Memphremagog for plotting your
route, as well to NFCT’s online Plan a Trip for route overviews.
Before leaving town, make sure to take a moment to pick up packed lunches from Montgomery
Pizza and Subs, which features great sandwiches, wraps, and baked goods made with local and
organic ingredients.
On the Missiquoi River: Richford to East
Berkshire
If you’re beginning your Missisquoi River paddle in
Richford, put in at Davis Park. Primitive camping is
permitted here (for future reference); restrooms are
at gas station or Town Hall on Main Street. The large
island across the channel from Davis Park once
hosted a car racetrack and the ball field of a farmCredit: Northern Vermont Resource
Conservation Development Council
2
league team during Richford’s boom days of the 1920s.
After a mile and a half, you’ll approach Magoon Ledge on river left. At some water levels, a class
two rapid forms here. Stay right.
After four and a half miles, you’ll approach where the Twin bridges of Route 105 and the Missisquoi
Valley Rail Trail cross overhead. The multi-use rail trail extends 26 miles from St Albans, on Lake
Champlain, to Richford. You’re likely to see anglers on the shoreline ledges at the bridge, as the
deep pools that form beneath them provide good brown trout habitat.
At about six miles, you’ll approach Doe Campsite on river left, on top of a tall bluff that shows
varved clay: annual sediment layers creating visible stripes, like tree rings, reflecting larger particles
laid down during spring flooding, and finer particles settling out during the winter. These varves
formed when the last ice age receded and this area was under water. Long- and short-tailed weasels
are often seen swimming and diving for crayfish here.
Just a half mile past Doe Campsite, the Trout River enters from the southeast through a channel it
gouged in the 1990s, leaving its old meandering course to dry up. If you need a break to stretch
your legs, or if you’re ending your paddle in East Berkshire, take out at the Route 118 bridge. Visit
the general store and enjoy views of Jay Peak (elevation 3,861 feet), recognizable by its height and
large summit building. The 300-mile Long Trail, which follows the spine of the Green Mountains
through the center of Vermont, crosses this rocky summit.
On the River: East Berkshire to Enosburg Falls
If you’re beginning your paddle in East Berkshire, see
the paragraph above for information on the Trout River
and route 118 bridge.
At nine miles from Richford (or three miles from East
Berkshire), you’ll approach the Samsonville Dam. Line
(lining means to pull your boat using a rope; click
hyperlink for more information), or portage around, the
old dam on the left, watching for iron rods and other
dam remains. The Samsonville Butterchurn Factory
operated here, and part of the old powerhouse can still
be seen on river right. Paddle through islands below the
dam, then scout the next quarter mile of Class II-III
ledges from a portage trail on river left.
Credit: Northern Forest Canoe Trail
At fifteen miles from Richford (or eight miles from East Berkshire), you’ll approach large Ice
Deflectors. These structures on river right, made from salvaged cement railroad ties and steel pipe,
are an innovative attempt to protect saplings from destruction by the massive chunks of ice which
scrape across this floodplain each spring. Over 8,000 trees have been planted on 30 acres of former
farmland as part of the Brownway River Walk Trail and Floodplain Restoration. Floodplain forests
like the one being recreated here help to regulate floods, to maintain water quality by minimizing soil
erosion, and to provide wildlife habitat.
At sixteen miles (or ten miles from East Berkshire), you’ll arrive at Enosburg Falls. Take out left at
Lawyer’s Landing, upstream from the Route 108 bridge and the dam. Camping is permitted at this
privately-owned access, which was built for paddlers in 2004. Just beyond the Route 108 bridge, the
pedestrian Bridge of Flowers and Light is one of the few remaining sand-filled bridges in the
Northeast. Built in 1915 in 100 days, it was a vital transportation link for milk from the area’s farms
3
to creameries along the river. In 1969, the new Route 108 Bridge was built. The old bridge was
abandoned and fell into decay. In 1996, a group of citizens saved it from collapse.
Day One Evening
For the evening, return to Montgomery Center for a second night at either Phineas Swann Bed and
Breakfast Inn or The Coach House. Have dinner at The Belfry, Bernie’s, or Trout River Traders. If you
prefer a pub experience, enjoy dinner and a beer at the Snowshoe Lodge and Pub on Main Street. If you
have an apartment at the The Coach House or a Riverside Suite at Phineas Swann Bed and Breakfast Inn,
consider “dinner in” take and bake items from Montgomery Pizza and Subs.
Day Two: Mountain Moments – Hazen’s Notch & Jay Peak Summit
Begin your day with breakfast at Bernie’s or Trout River Traders. Or, grab breakfast baked goods, plus
a packed lunch, at Montgomery Pizza and Subs. Next head out for a half-day (2-4 hour) hike at Hazen’s
Notch Association.
Hazen’s Notch Hiking
The non-profit Hazen's Notch Association
maintains a network of 15 miles of trails and
woods roads for hiking in summer and fall.
There is no fee for hiking at Hazen’s Notch,
although donations are appreciated. Dogs
must be kept on a leash; and groups larger
than 10 people are asked to prior
reservations and pay a group use fee.
The trails pass through a variety of
Credit: Rolf Anderson
interesting habitats that include meadows,
forests, orchards, and beaver ponds. Trails range from restored woods roads that have gentle to
moderate grades to narrow footpaths with steep climbs. There are numerous splendid views of the
Jay Mountains in addition to the incredible beauty of the wildflowers and wildlife that one sees along
the trails.
Enjoy your packed lunch at picnic tables available at Moosewood Ponds or the High Meadow.
As an alternative to picnicking, return to Montgomery Center and lunch at Bernie’s or Trout River
Traders.
Jay Peak Summit
After lunch, ride Vermont’s only Aerial Tram at Jay Peak Resort. The Tram runs daily through the
summer and fall, but call ahead to confirm operations. Your ride will reward you with breathtaking
views of the unique landscape through which you’ve just paddled and hiked!
Completing Your Getaway
Before you leave Montgomery Center, make a last stop at Montgomery Pizza and Subs or Trout River
Traders to pick up snacks for your drive.
Optional Extension
If you have a little extra time – when you first arrive in town, or at the end of your Missisquoi or
mountain days, consider a driving tour of the Six Covered Bridges of Montgomery and Montgomery
Center.
4
Summary of Services & Activities
Restaurants:
 The Belfry – American food (dinner)
 Bernie’s – American, Italian, & Mexican food; baked goods (breakfast, lunch, & dinner)
 Montgomery Pizza and Subs - Baked goods, sandwiches, take out (breakfast, lunch, &
dinner)
 Snowshoe Lodge and Pub – Bar and restaurant (dinner)
 Trout River Traders – American food, baked goods, country store (breakfast, lunch, &
dinner)
Lodging:
 The Coach House – Affordable vacation rental apartments
 Phineas Swann Bed and Breakfast Inn – Luxury bed and breakfast
Shopping:
 First Trax – Bike and ski supplies with some general outdoor gear
Activities:
 Paddle the Missisquoi River on your own, or using the services of either Montgomery
Adventures, Bert’s Boats, Brooks to Bays Nature Tours, or Vermont Tour and Charter (half to full
day)
 Hike at Hazen's Notch Association (half day)
 Ride the Aerial Tram at Jay Peak Resort (half day)
 Tour the Six Covered Bridges of Montgomery (optional; 2 hours)
Driving Times to Montgomery Center, Vermont from Major Cities
Boston
4.5 hours
Burlington, Vermont
1.5 hours
Montréal, Quebec
2.5 hours
Manchester, New Hampshire
3.5 hours
New York City
7 hours
Portland, Maine
4 hours
Recommended Reading
Maps and Guides
 Canoe Camping Vermont and New Hampshire Rivers, Roioli Schweiker, Backcountry
Publications, 1999.
 AMC River Guide: New Hampshire/Vermont,Appalachian Mountain Club, 2002.
 Vermont Atlas and Gazetteer, DeLorme, 2003.
 USGS Topographical Map: Mount Mansfield(VT). (888) ask-usgs or www.usgs.gov.
 Canadian Topographic Maps: 31 h/1 Lac Memphrémagog,31 h/2 Cowansville. 1-800-214-8524.
Fact and Fiction
 Hands on the Land, Jan Albers, MIT Press, 2002.
 Rumrunners and Revenuers: Prohibition in Vermont,Scott Wheeler, The New England Press,
Inc., 2002.
 Yesterdays of Brome County, Marion L. Phelps and Leon J. Darrah, eds., Brome County
Historical Society, 1980.
 The Nature of Vermont, Charles W. Johnson, University Press of New England, 1998.
 Aunt Sarah, Trudy A. Parker, Dawnland Publications, 1998.
5
*About the Northern Forest Canoe Trail: The Northern Forest Canoe Trail links the watersheds of
northern New York, Vermont, Québec, New Hampshire and Maine, and is a unique thread tying together the
Northern Forest Region. The 740-mile water trail traces historic Native American travel routes through the rivers of
this region, and is a living reminder our history, where rivers are both highways and routes of communication. Flowing
with the stories of Native Americans, European settlers, and the development of mill towns and the timber industry,
the Trail's rich heritage serves as a basis for widely accessible, environmentally friendly tourism in many of the small
communities along the route.
If you enjoyed this adventure, consider exploring other portions of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail.
Map 1 – Fulton Chain of Lakes to Long Lake
Map 2 – Long Lake to Saranac River
Map 3 – Saranac River to Lake Champlain
Map 4 – Lake Champlain to Missisquoi River
Map 5- Missisquoi River to Lake Memphremagog
Map 6 – Lake Memphremagog to Connecticut River
Map 7 – Connecticut River to Umbagog Lake
Map 8 – Umbagog Lake to Rangeley Lake
Map 9 – Rangeley Lake to Spencer Stream
Map 10 – Spencer Stream to Moosehead Lake
Map 11 – Moosehead Lake to Umbazooksus Stream
Map 12 – Umbazooksus Stream to Umsaskis Lake
Map 13 – Umsaskis Lake to St. John River
This publication is the result of tax-supported funding from USDA, Rural Development, and as
such is not copyrightable. It may be reprinted with the customary crediting of the source.
6