Making Clear Interior Windows for sound Control

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Making Clear Interior Windows for sound Control
Low-cost Interior Windows for Soundproofing for reducing sound passing through
existing windows.
For maximum sound reduction, the plastic acrylic panels should be thick and heavy, at
least 1/4" thick. They should be readily removable. They should not yellow from UV
(Ultra Violet) sun rays over time. They should be relatively inexpensive to buy and
make. They must fit well to eliminate sound leaks.
How they work. (They work by trapping dead air between the existing window and the
new pane).
To overcome these and other shortcomings and still be able to have a reasonably cost
effective product, we introduce:
MAGNETSEAL FRAMING for acrylic panels..
Start by taking your window measurements top, bottom and sides - for the plastic panel
you need. (Which you can obtain locally from any plastics sheet outlet. (Look in the
Yellow Pages under Plastic Suppliers). Have them cut your plastic 1/4" or 3/8" thick
panel to size. You need to decide whether to fit the flat sheet inside the edge frame of
your window or over the face of the frame. We recommend fitting over the entire wall
opening because it will give a little more dead air space, which is what makes these types
of windows work so well. Fitting to the inside opening may be more difficult than you
imagine. Only an inch or so oversize of the opening is needed.
Take your acrylic edge measurements and add them together to order enough steel
"Mounting Frame" and our special "peel off adhesive backed" 1" wide Magnetic Tape for
the job. To install a 1/4" or 3/8" acrylic (Plexiglas) panel in your window you will need 4
"L" shaped metal trim pieces and enough magnetic tape for attachment to around the
edges of your acrylic panels. The trim and the tape are sold by the foot, so you only
have to buy what you need.
To install your window:
Apply tape all around the acrylic edges as shown.
Flush or Recessed?
Attach the "L" shaped metal mounting trim to the window frame edges using screws
double sided tape or adhesive - if the new window is wider and taller and to be mounted
over the face of the frame, attach the trim angle over and around, covering the entire
frame opening.
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If Recessed, (This is harder to do) attach with the one leg of the "L" facing toward the
existing window, just recessed enough for the new plastic panel to be flush with the
frame as shown.
Tips:
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Make sure the magnetic tape does not have any gaps in the butt edges where it
mates with other strips of tape at the corners. These gaps will leak sound.
See that your "L" shaped trim is flat and square (not twisted or distorted) with the
magnetic tape for maximum attachment strength. Caulk the corners if there is any
gap. The "L" trim goes around the entire perimeter of the window frame, not just
in the corners as is shown for clarity in the drawings. If your windows has a "sill"
to support the new window pane, you'll not need tape and "L" channet for the
bottom edge. If no sill a few pane support screws should be added to prevent the
pane from sliding down.
If there are any gaps that could leak sound, fill with caulk.
To quickly remove a flush window, use a bit of sticky tape.
Notes: If you desire a window that will not yellow or pass UV in the very long term, ask
for Museum grade acrylic. It will not yellow or pass UV for 20 years or more. (Regular
acrylic will last 7- 10 or more years, depending on climate and UV present). Another of
the advantages of using acrylic is that you can get it with tinting!
It's best not to use polycarbonate or Lexan.
Tips on your existing windows: They must not pass any air through any gaps or crevices.
Caulk or otherwise seal them off. If need be, use some of our black foam, closed cell
tape to make a gasket where they close.
If you have steel frames, (not aluminum!), you can use the magnetic tape without buying
our metal framing stock. The plastic sheet will have to fit over and on the face on your
frame. If you want to mount this way, you don't need the "L" frame, just use the
magnetic tape.
You'll need the small screws we supply to attach the L" shaped metal mounting frame,
use the sheet metal type to attach to a metal frame and wood screws if PVC or wood.
Construction adhesive can also be used. Double sided tape could be used with a small
window, depending on the durability of the tape. Do not attach the "L" with the screws
on the face where the plastic sheet goes!
* Why not just use glass? Of course glass can be used and may even be cheaper. But
consider this:
The chance of breakage is far greater when installing and especially when removing the
panes from the frame for cleaning, etc. For this reason, use safety glass as it has a plastic
center/filler which reduces (but doesn't eliminate) the hazard of shatter and splinter effect
if broken. If it falls out, it will be finished - not like plastic.
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IMPORTANT: Keep in mind of the heat build-up in the window opening that
might occur if the window is facing the sun- your blinds, curtain, etc may get
fried if they are inside the enclosure. Window tint on the existing window might
be in order if that could be an issue.
www.soundproofing.org for help: 760752-3030 to buy:
www.supersoundproofingsales.com
rev-10 Sept 2013
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