Statistical Account for Scotland 1843
Compiled by the Rev Francis Archibald Stewart
Craignish Parish
In ancient times the parish had two names. KILMHORIE and CRAIGNISH. The
principal burial ground in the centre of which stand the ruins of a popish chapel still
known as Kilmhorie.
Twenty islets belong to the parish. The largest on the East are McNiven and McLardy.
The small island which lie between the mainland and Jura called Reisa-mhicfaidean,
Cor-reise, and Reisa am-teruth are nearly south of each other. The climate is
extremely mild with little frost and snow.
On the West side of the parish about a mile from the Southern point of the peninsula
is is a creek called Little Loch Craignish. A very violent sea rises about a gunshot to
the west of the Southernly extremity of the parish. It occaisioned by the confluence
off the ebb-tide which flows between Cor-reisa, Riesa-an-teruth (described above)
and of that which runs through the Dorus Mor. It is confined to one spot and is known
to local boatmen as ‘MUINNACHOINNICH’.
Trout abound in lakes and rivulets, and on one lake char are to be found, salmon and
grilse sometimes at the head of the Loch. During the Autumn, the common herring are
caught in the Loch. Much shell is to be found on the Southern and Western shores,Lobsters, crabs and large oysters. Mussels and cockles are in great abundance and are
of considerable service to the poor folk.
For centuries the parish belonged to the Cambell families, the larger portion to the
Craignish Campbells, And the smaller to the Barbreck father.
The parish is rich in history and remains of the gravestones of the fallen Danes are at
Barbreck, one lot of which stood in a circular form were removed to provide a site for
the modern house of Barbreck. Another engagement between the natives and the
Danes is said to have taken place on the Western shore of the parish. Two cairns still
mark it’s scene, and neam records the severity of the encounter. It bears the name
DIAL-nan-CEANN, is field of Heads.
Men of the parish defended it in the winter of 1664, against Colonel Alexander
McDonald, (known as Colkite). This occurred when Colonel McDonald and his
followers were campaigning in Argyle with Montrose, they entered Craignish with the
purpose of laying it to waste, but the natives had been forwarned and had time to hide
their cattle and sheep on the islands, and every man who could hold a sword withdrew
into Craignish Castle. The McDonalds laid siege to the castle for six weeks without
success, and deciding eventually to withdraw, they were in the act of so doing when
the castle defenders made a sortie, killing many McDonalds and driving off the rest.
About ¼ mile to the North-West of the Southern point of the Peninsula is a small bay
called Port of the Atholmen. It’s name is derived from the marquis of Athol, who in
1685 was instructed by the state to ravage Campbell lands, but in Craignish his men
were defeated by the natives and drowned in this bay while attempting to escape.
The religion is the established church. The ruins of two religious houses can be seen.
One with lillte remains stood near the shore a lilltle to the North-East of the present
Church, still called by the natic=ves a house of prayer, it seems to have been of
popish origin. On a sloping field a liitle to the West of it a popish priest was interred.
The second ruin appears to have been the parish chapel. On the East side of the parish
and about 11/2 miles from its Southern extremity the walls of this building stillstand
and around it lies the principal burial ground.
There is the ruin of an ancient important stronghold, built on a rocky elevation near
the shore at the North West boundary of the parish. It’s walls are some 10ft thick,
enclose an area 20 ft by 90 ft, and can still be seen some 6 ft high. It’s walls rise sheer
on the seaward side, and within can be seen the remains of a well measuring 9 ft by 6
ft, though as it is now filled with rubbish, it’s depth is impossible to ascertain.
On the West coast is the house of DAIL, residence of John McDougall of Lunga. The
house of BARBRECK is the seat of Captain Campbell R. M
In the southern part of the parish stands Castle Craignish, mansion of Colin Campbell
Esq, of Jura. The Castles’ lower storey is extremely ancient, with 9 ft walls. The
ground storey is a vaulted apartment extending the whole length and breadth of the
tower, said to have been used as a dungeon, the centre of this apartment being of the
solid rock on which the castle stands. The ancient oaken door with iron framework
still remains. The moat was 12 ft broad and 12 ft deep. A modern house little in
unison with the appearamed of the old tower to which it was attached at the North
end, was removed by the present proprietor, and in 1832 he erected an edifice in
better taste.
Cultivations are still of the old systems, and smaller farmers neglect much of the land
which could be drained, and continue to till in monotonous rotation the dry sunny
slopes which have been cultivated for centuries. In a few farms a better system has
been persued. There are 2 corn mills and one threshing mill in the parish, the former
are moved by water and the latter by horses. The common breed of cattle is the West
Highland. A few low country cows are kept for milk by the upper classes. Blackface
sheep are most generally kept, there are a few Leicesters and Cheviots. Much
attention is paid to the breed of horses, and those now used are larger and much more
powerful than those employed about 30 years ago.
The principal recent improvements have been affected on the farms of Barbreck, Dail,
Castle Craignish, Kilbride and Ardlarach. These condsist mainly of subdividing, and
enclosing and planting. Such improvements are now going on to a great extent on the
farms of Castle Craignish and Aird. Farm implements are good. A cart costs £6, an
iron plough £4, and a wooden plough £2.
Average raw products produced within the parish annually as near as can be
ascertained are as follows,
Oats
1,750 bushels at 2/9d per bushel
Flax
12 lbs at ½ per lb….is is not easy to read)
Potatoes
,784 bolls at 8?- per boll
Turnips
3 acres at £6 per acre
Cultivated hay
0,000 stones at 10d per stone
Meadow Hay
1,610 stones at 10d per stone.
Fisheries
200
Peat
,800 carts at 1/- per cart
Livestock sales
£2,270
Dairy produce
£700
Miscellaneous
£74
Total of produce
£7,457-12-10d
The yearly grasing of a cow or ox is £2, and a sheep is 3/-.
Manufacture of kelp in the parish was recently discontinued, because of free
importation of BARILLA. This has occaisioned financial loss to the proprietors, but
did not cause much hardship to the local people, as the work of the kelp was carried
out by workers brought in from the islands
One small vessel only belongs to the parish and is employed frequently in ferrying
cattle from Jura to the mainland on their way to the markets of Dumbarton, Doune
and Falkirk. Average numbers ferried annually from Jura, including some from
Colonsay and Islay may be stated as 3,000 sheep and 1,000 heads of black cattle.
The Crinan Canal affords means of easy communication with the low country. Steam
boats plying through it between Glasgow and Inverness pass the Southern parts of the
parish every alternate day and often lands goods and passengers. Vessels from
Glasgow and Greenock occaisionally trade to Loch Craignish, bringing cargoes of
coals and carrying off potatoes. In spring, vessels arrive from Irelend for supplies of
seed potaoes.
Safe harbour can be found in Little Loch Craignish, where vessels sometimes shelter
whole waiting for favourable tides at the Dorus Mhor. The North End of Loch
Craignish forms a commodious harbour, the entrance to it is free from sunk rocks, and
having beinf surrounded by hills rarely experiences violent agitation of the waters.
The present Church was erected in 1826, and is neat and commodius, and there is
only one family more than 4 miles away from it. It can contain 500 sitters and is
generally well attended. There is a comportable Manse built in 1832. There is one
parochial school, near the church.
There are 3 Inns’ within the parish, which do not appear to exert a pernicious
influence on the morals of the inhabitants. The language generally spoken is Gaelic,
though it has lost some ground in the last 40 years. Some Gaelic words have become
obselete and generally English is commonly understood.
The most common fuel is peat though of inferior quality. Coals are procured frpm
Galsgow in the summer, costing 13/- to 15/- per wagon and are chiefly used by the
upper classes.
Population statistics at 1841
Persons
904
Families of independent fortune residing in the parish
4
Proprietors of land, worth £50 and upwards
5
Unmarriied men upwards of 50 years of age
6
Widowers upwards of 50 years of age
6
Unmarried women upwards of 45 years of age
5
Number of families
180
Average children ib family
3
Inhabited houses
179
One person is liable to insanity, two are blind, there is one dumb individual and one is
fatuous.
Charitable Bequests
In 1751, the sum of £50, was left in trust to ministers and elders of the church for
Pious purposes, by John Cammpbell Esq, of Craignish, youngest son of George
Campbell Esq, of Craignish.
In 1795, a sum upwards of £60 was left by the late Major-General John Campbell of
Barbreck. The interest of which is to be distributed annually by the Kirk Session
amongst the poor on that estae.
In 1835, a sum upwards of £60 was invested by Colin Campbell Esq, Jura, in a share
of the Edinburgh Old Gas Light Company. The proceeds of which are to be
distributed annually among the paupers on Castle Craignish estate, and should there
be none on that properety, among the poor of the parish at large. A right to send a
patient to the Glasgow Infirmary has also been generously conferred by the same
gentleman on the kirk session.
Details of Employed Persons 1841
Males employed in agriculture of farms
69
Cotters
50
Males employed in hancrafts
41
Professional persons
4
Other males
4
Males servants above 20 years of age
30
Male servants under 20 years of age
21
Female servants above 20 years of age
22
Female servants under 20 years of age
11
Great good to the parish would come from enclosing the stools of native oak, which
are numerous, to protect them from the browsing of sheep and cattle.