ST. MICHAEL’S, BURGH-BY-SANDS
Statement of Significance
St. Michael’s, Burgh-by-Sands is built on the site of the Roman Fort Aballava, on
Hadrian’s Wall and constructed, in red and grey sandstone, of stones from the fort and
the Wall itself. The present day Hadrian’s Wall Path and Hadrian’s Wall Cycleway,
on the line of the Wall, run past the church, resulting in a much increased number of
visitors since the Path opened in 2003, and currently it is estimated that 10,000
walkers use the Path each year, and 10,000 cyclists use the Cycleway.
The earliest church was documented as being on the site in 1100 and the dedication to
St. Michael dates back to that time, although little remains from that date and the
church was almost wholly re-built in the late 12th century, with the addition of the
north aisle in the 13th century, providing a small side chapel. Use of the side chapel
subsequently ceased and in 1880 the area it had occupied was filled with pews. In
2004 the side chapel was restored and dedicated to St. Kentigern, patron saint of the
now redundant church at Grinsdale, also part of the Barony of Burgh Benefice.
The bell tower was built in 1360 and still houses its original bells (restored and rehung in 2003), the treble dedicated to St. Michael and the tenor to the Virgin Mary.
Although built as a belfry, it was also intended as a defensive tower and is entered
today through the heavy iron “yett” or gate. This would have originally been boarded
on both sides, and bolted to defend villagers sheltering in the tower from Border raids,
having been summoned to safety by the same bells which, in the 21st century, still call
parishioners to worship in the church. (The word “yett” is of Norse origin and dates
from the time of the Viking invasions. The word is still used in Cumbrian dialect for
“gate” today). A doorway, built up in the 1880s, at the west end of the north aisle is
likely to have replaced the original Norman doorway, when the tower was built in the
14th century, as an entrance at that part of the church could more easily be defended
from the fortified tower. In 2013, as part of a major development project, the west
doorway was re-opened and a short, sloping path laid to connect it to the main
churchyard path, providing the alternative of level access into the church, for those
unable to negotiate the steps at the north doorway. The re-opening of the doorway
revealed two pairs of apertures at each side of it, where stout oak drawbars would
have been placed to reinforce the door during Border warfare. These important links
with those violent times in the Borders have been retained and are of great interest.
During Border Raids farm animals were driven into the church for protection.
St. Michael’s is one of only three fortified churches in Cumbria, the others being at
Newton Arlosh and Great Salkeld, although Burgh is probably the earliest of these
surviving examples. St. Michael’s has been described as the most impressive fortified
church in the Borders. The church is unique in having two towers, the east tower
having been added in the 15th century, although it was lowered in height to the level
of the main church roof in the 18th century. An independent survey of all its churches,
undertaken in recent years by the Diocese of Carlisle, identified St. Michael’s, Burghby-Sands as being of “high significance architecturally, historically and
archaeologically”.
In addition to the re-opening of the west doorway and provision of level access
described above, the 2013 development project included the installation of a WC
suitable for able bodied and disabled use and a small kitchen to enable the provision
of refreshments. A time-line of twelve granite slabs was laid along the churchyard
path, describing historical events of significance for the church and area, from the
building of Hadrian’s Wall to the present day and excellent visitor information
relating to the history of the church, using illustrated panels and associated lighting,
was installed in the ground floor of the west tower. New visitor literature and a new
guidebook have also been produced.
Burgh-by-Sands is a pleasant and relatively unspoilt village, with a population of
about 1200. There are a small number of working farms, a primary school, and parttime Post Office and public house. The village enjoys a good community life. The
Parish Hall has been completely restored and was re-opened in 2011 and the Village
Green and Wildlife Area, which had been many years in coming about, was formally
opened also in 2011. In 2003 the village won the Village of the Year title, both for
Cumbria and for the North of England.
The church is near the entrance to the village, approaching from the City of Carlisle,
which is six miles away. A visitor to the church, entering via the main gates, sees a
well kept churchyard with memorials going back to the 18th century, as well as the
new granite time-line described above. The view of the church is framed by the
ancient yew trees half way up the path, marking the original western boundary of the
churchyard until 1882. In spring the grass is carpeted with snowdrops, presenting a
tranquil scene far removed from the turbulent times which this Border village would
have experienced in earlier centuries.
On entering the church the visitor would see an attractive, surprisingly spacious
interior, with a three bay, north aisle arcade of pointed arches on octagonal columns,
with stiff leaf capitals. The open timber roof to the nave dates from 1881. There is a
corbel stone, carved as a head, in the sanctuary, which is believed to be 12th century
and may have come from the first church on the site. There are interesting carved
stones above the doorway in the bell tower and two 12th century grave slabs, which
were re-used in the construction of the tower in 1360. The stained glass windows are
all 19th century. The five windows in the north aisle depict St. Cuthbert, St.
Kentigern, St. Aidan and St. Ninian, and also King Edward I, who died on Burgh
Marsh and was brought to the church to lie in State in 1307, when his heir and the
Court came to the church to pay their respects to the deceased monarch, before King
Edward II was declared King in Carlisle. A visit to the church by HRH The Duke of
Kent in 2007 marked the 700th Anniversary of these momentous events. The church
has oak pews, dating from 1880, and a small pipe organ.
In March 2014 HRH The Duke of Gloucester visited the church and attended the
celebration to mark the completion of the Three Solway Churches’ Development
Project.
St. Michael’s is well used, with a service each Sunday at 11 am. Its Sunday School
was re-established in 2005 and takes place on two Sundays each month. Activities for
children are available every Sunday. On the 1st and 2nd Sundays there is a Holy
Communion Service, and the 3rd and 4th Sundays have a Service of the Word, one of
them lay led. On any fifth Sundays the service that week is moved in rotation around
the other four Benefice parishes. A service of Book of Common Prayer Holy
Communion is held each Wednesday morning in Burgh church.
The church attracts a large number of visitors, particularly since the completion of the
Three Solway Churches’ Development Project. It takes part in Heritage Open Days
and in 2013 received around 150 visitors over the four days. Pre-booked guided tours
are offered and a number of tours have taken place in 2013 and 2014, one run in
collaboration with Tullie House Museum in Carlisle. School visits are encouraged
and some have already taken place; this is an area which the church is planning to
develop further now that the development project is complete and the necessary
facilities are in place. Lectures and concerts also take place from time to time. The
church is open during daylight hours all year round. Trained guides/stewards welcome
visitors and provide information and facilities for ten hours each week, on Fridays,
Saturdays and Sundays between Easter and the end of October. There is a drinking
water facility outside the church for the use of visitors when the church is not
stewarded and its availability is advertised on the Hadrian’s Wall Path and Cycleway
route.
St. Michael’s can be described as being in good heart and still serving well the
community to which its priests have ministered for over 900 years.
Carolyn E. Baines
Churchwarden
November 2015.
Acknowledgements for historical information:
The history leaflet St. Michael’s Church, Burgh-by-Sands by B. C. Jones
English Heritage’s Listing Record.
Burgh-by-Sands Church by Humphrey Welfare. 2014.