New Zealand’s Wine Identity
April 2012
Most wine regions have a very clear varietal identity. For example, in France, Bordeaux is best known for its red
blends dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and white blends using Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc;
Burgundy has Pinot Noir and Chardonnay; Alsace is defined by its Rieslings, Gewurztraminers, Pinot Gris and
Muscats and so on. However one country which is still finding its way is New Zealand. Of course it is renowned
for producing Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, but what about the nine other key regions across the North and
South Islands?
New Zealand has tried for many years to find new winning
grape/terroir combinations that will bring the region into its
own. For a long time New Zealand’s winemakers were
enamoured with American Hybrids, such as Albany Surprise
(otherwise known as Isabella), but these wines did not
successfully compete with those from the US, so New Zealand
embarked on a difficult relationship with Müller Thurgau, the
high yielding white crossing once described by Jancis Robinson
MW as “the bane of German wine production.” The search
continued with several success stories, including McWilliams’
owner Tom McDonald’s triumph with Cabernet Sauvignon in
the 1960s, which was considered the great red hope for New
Zealand. Encouraging results also came from founder of
Nobilo Wines, Nick Nobilo’s 1976 Pinot Noir, reinforced in the
1980s by efforts in Martinborough and Canterbury.
The key to all of these successes was learning from the
country’s “terroir”. There is no precise translation for this
term, but a good way of thinking about it is the interaction of
numerous factors including soil, vineyard aspect, climate, vine
and grower.
New Zealand’s Wine Regions, www.nzwine.com
For example a west-facing slope in New Zealand which catches the morning sun may have identical soil to an
east-facing slope in the same region which warms up later in the day and holds the evening rays. However the
“terroirs” are different and consequently the wine produced is different too.
In the search for a sense of identity, New Zealand is increasingly producing single vineyard terroir-driven wines.
Hawke’s Bay and Martinborough in the North Island, then Marlborough on the South Island are very good
examples of regions which are using this principle.
Hawke’s Bay
Established by Marist missionaries in the mid-19th century, awareness for Hawke’s Bay as a wine region was
raised in the 1960s with Tom McDonald’s success with Cabernet Sauvignon. Such was the quality it alerted
people worldwide to the promise of the area.
Hawke’s Bay’s similarities with Bordeaux are clear. Both have moderate maritime climates with similar
latitudes (39.28° S versus 44° N) and a wide range of soil types including fertile, coastal alluvial and well drained
gravel (comparable to the Medoc). Despite these similarities and Tom McDonald’s early success, it was not
until the 1990s when Hawke’s Bay’s Bordeaux blends really began to gain attention with their ripe fruit, soft
structured tannins and crisp definitions. It was also around this time that winemakers and vine growers realised
that vines responded better to different soil types, especially poor soils which stress the vines and limit growth
producing low yields and more concentrated grapes. This discovery led to a greater focus on planting the best
grape varieties to suit the terroir and making single vineyard terroir-driven wines.
Craggy Range is an excellent example of an estate which is using these principles to bring an identity to their
Bordeaux Blends. Their wines tend to be dominated by Merlot as it thrives better in Hawke’s Bay’s limestone
and gravel soils; for example, the 2010 vintage of Te Kahu is 80% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet
Franc and 4% Malbec. No two vintages are the same as, similar to Bordeaux, the blend changes with the
weather and climate conditions. Winemaker and viticulturist Stevie Smith MW is so passionate about single
vineyard expressions that every time a vine is replaced, the new vine’s growth is measured and compared to
others in the vineyard to ensure that it is “kept in balance and harmony with its age and environment.”
Hawke’s Bay is not just about Bordeaux Blends. Given
the range of soils and aspects, many different estates
have planted multiple grape varietals to experiment
in finding the best combinations for producing wine.
The Gimblett Gravels is a sub-region in the SouthWest of Hawke’s Bay which is using this concept to
make particularly exciting wines. With 810ha of
shingle, it has the poorest soils in Hawke’s Bay. Many
vineyards are planted on its flat flood plains, but as
understanding of the land has grown, so has the
desire for vineyards on slopes. Premium sites, such as
the limestone hills which surround the Gimblett
View of the Gimblett Gravels from the top of Cypress Wines’ hill
Gravels, are high in demand as the aspect increases
the stress on the vines.
One of the success stories in the Gravels is Cypress
Wines. In 2000, Gus Lawson left his family estate, Te
Awa, to focus on single vineyard, terroir-driven wines
and established a terraced hillside vineyard in the
Gimblett Gravels. Driving up to the site you are struck
by the uncanny resemblance to the Hermitage Hill in
Tain, France where the steep sun-baked slopes are the
ideal location for low yielding Syrah vines. One is struck
by another similarity when tasting on Cypress’ hill itself
surrounded by the terraced vines: the strength of the
wind, like that of the Mistral, manages disease and
Cypress Wines’ hillside vineyard, www.cypresswines.co.nz
further stresses the vines lowering yields and
increasing grape concentration. These similarities did not pass Gus by. According to his wife Mel, it inspired
them to plant the hill with Rhône varietals, such as Syrah and Viognier.
There is one key difference between Cypress’ hill and the granitic Hermitage Hill: limestone and clay soils
dominate Cypress’ estate giving the wines their own individual personality. Their single vineyard flagship wine,
Terraces Syrah, is a clean linear wine packed with tons of black pepper, fresh black fruits, violets, chocolate and
a long stony finish, which could never be mistaken for coming from the Rhône or Barossa. It is very much its
own wine.
Syrah is not the only varietal planted on the hill. Another Rhône varietal, Viognier, is also grown together with
Chardonnay, which produces precise, pale lemon wines with a creamy, flinty nose and stone fruit palate. The
characteristic minerality (saline, flint) lingers on the finish. It is a classic example of what Hawke’s Bay is trying
to do with their Chardonnays.
With its varied terroir, Hawke’s Bay has many different options to consider when searching for its sense of
identity; but perhaps these options are what are making it so difficult to find it? Hawke’s Bay is carving out a
reputation for its Syrahs, Chardonnays, Viogniers and Bordeaux blends, but only time will tell if this recognition
expands worldwide and if one varietal will stand out over the others.
Martinborough (Wairarapa)
Martinborough is one of New Zealand’s smallest and most rural wine regions yet it is known for producing
some of the country’s finest Pinot Noirs. Jancis Robinson describes it as “the North Island’s most exciting area
for Pinot Noir and the first to establish a reputation for it.” As New Zealand’s driest wine region, the freedraining, deep alluvial, gravelly terraces are protected by the Tararua and Rimutaka Ranges to the west.
In 1980 former farmer Clive Paton realised the potential for growing grapes in Martinborough. His fellow
farmers thought that he was mad as vineyards were previously unheard of in the region; however he
recognised that the climate and thin poor soils were the perfect conditions for growing Pinot Noir. This belief
was reinforced by a scientific study conducted in 1978 which reported that, as New Zealand’s driest region,
Martinborough’s microclimate was similar to Burgundy. With a cutting of the infamous “Gumboot clone” 1 he
began a wine revolution with his estate Ata Rangi.
Over 30 years later, Pinot Noir remains Martinborough’s main grape variety producing wines which are
reminiscent of Burgundy – aromatic, medium bodied, dry red wines with fresh red fruits, mushrooms and
sweet spice. What sets them apart from their French counterparts is their mineral character, like so many top
wines of New Zealand. Described by Neal Martin of the Wine Advocate as “oyster shell” it reflects the soils of
the region. Ata Rangi introduced their first single vineyard Pinot Noir in 2007 marking the move to better
mirror the terroir and give the wines more of a New Zealand identity than French. On meeting Clive Paton you
are struck by how passionate he is about the search for the perfect expression of Martinborough Pinot Noir. He
and his peers are not resting on their laurels and are constantly evolving their viticulture and vinification
practices.
Martinborough is not just about Pinot Noir though. Chardonnay is grown using clones such as Mendoza which
gives the wines a grapefruit character. Martinborough Chardonnays are rich, fruity with a sweet spice (nutmeg)
and stony/steely finish. They are clearly New World wines, but they are not as pronounced and full bodied as
those from hotter regions such as South Eastern Australia. The single vineyard versions such as Ata Rangi
Craighall are very much unique reflections of Martinborough.
Small quantities of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Riesling vines are also grown with varying degrees of
success. Bordeaux blends are also important to note, but for now the identity of Martinborough seems to be
tied to Pinot Noir.
Marlborough
At the northern tip of the South Island is the region with the clearest winemaking identity in all of New Zealand:
Marlborough. Renowned the world over for its Sauvignon Blanc with pungent aromas of asparagus, grass,
citrus and passionfruit, it is easy for even the untrained palate to identify the wines in a blind tasting.
1
Otherwise known as the Abel Clone, Clive inherited from Auckland winemaker Michael Abel an illegal cutting
of single vine Pinot Noir allegedly from Domaine de la Romanée Conti which was intercepted by customs on its
way into New Zealand. Now 32 years old, it forms the backbone to Ata Rangi’s famous flagship Pinot Noir.
Marlborough now accounts for 50% of all vineyards in New Zealand with 2/3 of all Sauvignon Blanc planted in
the region, which is quite an achievement as the area was
unknown for vines until 1993 when Montana, the
country’s leading wine producer, established the first
commercial vineyard. Montana recognised that the welldrained stony soils of Marlborough’s Wairau Valley floor
and the long days, cool nights and bright sunshine were
the perfect conditions for growing Sauvignon Blanc. Given
the popularity for this grape variety, it is no surprise that
so many winemakers wanted to get in on the act;
however this movement has led to overproduction where
demand cannot meet supply. Also other countries are
keen to benefit from Marlborough’s success and are
competing with their own more affordable versions,
Wairau Valley, Marlborough
putting more pressure on demand. Winemakers like Dave
Clouston of Two Rivers have recognised this trend and have begun making new styles of Sauvignon Blanc which
are evolving away from the popular, intensely aromatic, unoaked approach into a more classical version
reminiscent of whites from Pessac Leognan whilst retaining the herbaceous character for which Marlborough
has become famous. Dave believes that this evolution is important for the Marlborough winemaking industry
to survive long term as wine consumption trends are constantly changing and eventually the public will tire of
drinking stereotypical Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and move onto the next wine style.
As well as making new styles of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, estates such as Herzog are planting a wide range
of varieties in their vineyards including Montepulciano and Grüner Veltliner, experimenting to discover which
other varietals succeed in the region’s terroir. Andrew Brown of Framingham has had success with his Rieslings
producing wines which are in the German Spätlese style.
Pinot Noir is another varietal which has seen success in Marlborough, but has yet to make as much of a dent on
the worldwide market as Sauvignon Blanc. Arguably the estate leading the way is Fromm. Established in 1992
by 4th generation Swiss winemaker George Fromm, he identified that the Wairau Valley was also the perfect
terroir for Pinot Noir, so embarked on making elegant European inspired red wines.
Fellow winemaker Hätsch Kalberer was engaged by Fromm very early on in this process and over the years his
skills have become synonymous with Fromm winery, driving its Pinot Noir aspirations. His wines are inspired by
those of Chambolle-Musigny and focus on giving the signature back to the vineyard rather than fiddling in the
winery. However he is always “refining” his methods, a term that he repeatedly uses when describing his
techniques, with the aim of producing the best possible expression of Marlborough’s terroir by stripping the
wine back to its essential components and letting its natural
character shine through. When asked by George Fromm to
begin making Pinots using whole bunch fermentation,
Hätsch was unsure but he is now experimenting with
different levels of whole bunches in blends to refine the
wines.
Walking into his vinification rooms, one is struck by how
calm and still it is, with Tchaikovsky soaring out of the
speakers and rows upon rows of top wines from around the
world including Coche Dury, JJ Prum and Dr Loosen. There is
Hätsch’s bottle collection at Fromm Estate
even the odd bottle of Lustau hidden amongst the barrels.
Perhaps this collection is one of the reasons why Hätsch is at
the forefront of Pinot Noir winemaking in Marlborough? Few New Zealand winemakers will ever taste wines
like these as they are rarely imported into the country. With his cellars back in Switzerland, Hätsch is in a
unique position to use them as inspiration.
The recent movement to plant vines in Marlborough’s Awatere
Valley has also lead to improvements in the region’s Pinots. In
contrast to the Wairau valley, it is much drier, cooler and windier
with many slopes. This different terroir also has much poorer
clay/limestone soils on which Pinot and other red varietals thrive.
The result is low yields of tiny bunches of grapes with thin skins,
which gives the wines a higher acidity, minerality and structure.
The closer proximity to the Pacific Ocean also provides a saline
quality which is unique to the Pinots of this region.
Looking at the wines which are being produced in Marlborough,
Two Rivers’ vineyard in the Awatere Valley
Martinborough and Hawke’s Bay, maybe it is the constant
refining, which Dave Clouston and Hätsch Kalberer refer to, which
will lead New Zealand to their wines’ sense of identity? The passion for continuously trying to make better and
better wines is a characteristic which stands out across all of New Zealand. By reflecting their unique terroir,
New Zealand makes wines which are truly noteworthy and deserve to be recognised in their own right, rather
than being described as made in a Burgundian- or Rhone-style. Worldwide awareness is increasing and the top
wines, such as Cypress Terraces Syrah, Ata Rangi’s and Fromm’s Pinot Noir, Framingham Riesling and Two
Rivers Sauvignon Blanc are leading the way.
Alexandra Howard
References
Saker, John & Mclean, Aaron (2011) Pinot Noir: The New Zealand Story, Wine Appreciation Guild.
Robinson, Jancis & Johnson, Hugh (2007) The World Atlas of Wine: 6th Edition, Mitchell Beazley.
Dominé, Andre (2004) Wine, Konemann.
Fielden, Christopher (2004) Exploring the World of Wines & Spirits, Wine & Spirit Education Trust.
Martin, Neal (2010) “New Zealand” in Wine Advocate Issue #191, at www.erobertparker.com (accessed April 1st
2011)