JCA 110 Chilterns
FGU Summary:
The Chilterns rise to just over 900 feet and stretch from the Thames in Oxfordshire across
Buckinghamshire and Hertfordshire to Bedfordshire. The hills are formed by an outcrop of Chalk,
overlain by clay with flints, and comprise a steep scarp slope south and east of Aylesbury and a gradual
dip slope falling towards the Thames valley. The plateau is cut by a series of through valleys that divide
it into roughly rectangular blocks, to create a varied mix of landscapes. Approximately half of the land
within the Character Area falls within the Chilterns AONB (52%). There are no parts of the landscape
designated as LFA. 85.1% of the Character Area is open countryside of which 69.3% is cultivated.
14.9% is urban. The landscape contains a considerable amount of woodland - covering 14% of the
Character Area.
4 sub-units:
North-western escarpment and foothills; Dip slope; Chalk valleys; Thames valley
1. Settlement & Development
The area has been settled since early Palaeolithic times. During the Neolithic period there was
widespread clearance of woodland from much of the Chalk escarpment and river valleys to create
farmland. There were many late Iron Age farmsteads, some of which developed into Roman villas.
During the Roman period there was an iron industry.
The settlement pattern of the Chilterns mainly consists of dispersed farmsteads and hamlets, although
not at a high density, with low levels of nucleated villages.
Towns and villages of medieval origin are found throughout the Chiltern in valleys with reliable Norman
churches, village greens and ponds. From the mid-19th century, scattered linear villages have
developed on the plateau, usually around commonland. 20th century: there has been large-scale
development along major road and rail corridors. Most Chiltern villages have grown rapidly during 20th
century-house styles from the previous 300 years can be found in most of them.
Designed parklands make an important contribution to the local landscape.
In this heavily wooded areas timber-frame was the traditional building technique for most buildings until
the 18th century when brick began to be widely used. Before that date brick had been limited to use on
higher status houses or for elements such as chimney stacks. Timber-framing continued in use for farm
buildings until the 19th century, often combined with solid masonry or brick gable ends with the framing
typically clad in weatherboarding.
Plain clay tile is the most widespread roofing material. Tile probably often replaced thatch although
there is a concentration of thatch in the Oxfordshire part of the Chilterns.
Settlements are linked by a network of ancient, commonly sunken lanes.
Woodland industries and furniture making are a characteristic feature of the area – High Wycombe
developed as a major centre of chair making. The proximity of the area to London meant that many of
the towns expanded greatly in the 19th and 20th centuries with towns like Luton and Hemel Hempstead
developing in to major conurbations.
2. Agriculture
The higher levels of woodland in the Chilterns resulted in a different system of agriculture and enclosure
to the other chalk areas, with smaller, ancient enclosures being typical as opposed to the relatively late
enclosure of other downland areas that created large arable fields.
Arable farming with sheep grazing on the improved chalk grasslands was predominant across the area
although there was more arable in the southwest part of the Chilterns than in the northeast due to a
considerable reduction in woodland in the southwest of the area between 1600 and 1800. In the
northeast the wheat acreage declined in the period 1640 to 1750 to be replaced by fodder crops
enabling heavier stocking. This difference may reflect the better access to London via waterways
enjoyed by the southwest making the transportation of corn crops easier whereas the northeast
concentrated on fattening stock that could be driven to market.
The clay capping the chalk meant that the area was heavily wooded and pig keeping was a speciality in
the beech forests. Timber growing and coppice industries were important, especially in the southwest.
Medium-high concentrations of pre-1750 farmstead buildings. Farms are typically smaller than in many
other chalk land areas and so often have fewer or smaller buildings but they are usually arranged in
loose courtyards with barns, including aisled barns, granaries and stables set around a yard. Some
smaller farms may have only one or two sides of the yard enclosed by buildings. The farm house may
form one side of the yard but rarely has an agricultural building attached it.
3. Fields and Boundary Patterns
Roden’s research proposed that communal townfields associated with early settled areas, enclosed
fields, intermixed with communal open fields with post-12th century settlements.
There are considerable contrasts in the field patterns of the Chilterns. Towards the south-west and
north-eastern parts of the area there are medium to large fields with generally irregular, gently curving
boundaries that probably represent enclosure by agreement dating from the 16th century onwards. In
the central part of the area, between High Wycombe and Hemel Hempstead, the fields are considerably
smaller and are either rectilinear or small squares. The rectilinear fields follow definite ‘grain’ in the
landscape with long continuous boundary lines running north-west to south-east.
4. Trees and Woodland
The greater coverage of clay with flints on the Chilterns in comparison with the other chalkland areas
such as the Hamsphore Downs (JCA 130) resulted in a greater level of woodland cover, making the
Chilterns one of the most wooded lowland landscapes in the country.
The character area retains extensive areas of woodland, with between 20 and 30% cover representing
high figures by UK standards. The extent of the woodland distinguishes the Chilterns from other chalk
landscapes. The woodlands on the plateau and the steep slopes of the valley sides are dominated by
beech. Beech woods were managed to supply the 18th and 19th century furniture industry.
Parkland landscapes with designed woodlands, tree clumps, parkland trees, lime avenues, are
distinctive features of the landscape.
Orchards were widespread on the central part of the area although they are now disappearing rapidly.
5. Semi-Natural Environments
There are considerable areas of ancient woodland and some very rare natural box woods can be found
on the scarp. Remnant acid grassland and heathland on the plateau.
6.
River & Coastal Features
The main rivers are the Wye, Gade, Ver, Bulbourne, Chess and Misbourne. The Wye flows directly into
the Thames whilst the others flow into the river Colne before joining the Thames. Small brooks known
as ‘bournes’ flow in several valleys, fed by springs which periodically dry up.