Geology 330 – 3rd Midterm Review -- Oceanography
(Chapters 9-12)
Terms:
gyre
West Wind Drift
western boundary currents
eastern boundary currents
Gulf Stream current
California current
upwelling
El Ni~no
Southern Oscillation
ENSO
La Nina
thermohaline circulation
North Atlantic Deep Water
longshore current
estuary
surf
tide
tombolo
Figures:
9.3
9.8b
9.20
10.2
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
upwelling
wave-cut platform
wave height
wave depth
wavelength
deep-water wave
translational waves
(surf wave)
wave period
wave refraction
storm surge
storm surge
barrier island
baymouth bar
beach nourishment
breakwater
emergent coast
submergent coast
10.6
10.17
10.28
11.7
11.10
11.11
11.13
12.2
erosional coasts
depositional coasts
wave-cut platform
longshore bar
rip currents
barrier reef
fringing reef
atolls
estuary
groin
seawall
spit
spring tide
neap tide
semidiurnal tides
diurnal tides
mixed tides
12.14
12.21
How does the Coriolis Effect affect current direction?)
What are the two general types of ocean currents?
How fast do vertical currents move?
How do gyres move in the northern hemisphere? In the southern hemisphere?
How and where does West Wind Drift circulate?
What is an example of a western boundary current? Which way does it flow? How does it affect climate in Northern
Europe?
7. What is an example of a eastern boundary current? Which way does it flow? How does it affect climate along the West
Coast?
8. How can seawater’s density be altered?
9. Where can masses of seawater be observed to be sinking? Why?
10. Label a wave diagram.
11. What causes tides?
12. How do the moon’s phases relate to tidal levels?
13. Why do we find tidal bulges on the Earth opposite the side facing the sun or moon?
14. What factors control the strength of gravitational attraction between two objects?
15. How can one distinguish diurnal, semidiurnal, and mixed tides?
16. What type of tidal pattern generally exists in this part of California?
17. How does sand migrate along a coastline?
18. What is the source of beach sediment?
19. Describe coastal features produced by longshore currents.
20. What are examples of emergent and submergent coastlines?
21. What are features associated with each type of coastline?
22. What are some artificial structures that can preserve coastlines?
23. How do different reef structures develop over time?
Note: please refer to Thinking critically questions and boldfaced words as further points for study