Truth about Trade and Technology, IA
03-19-07
Why 'Organic' Now Comes in Leather
Alexis Idone is so committed to buying organic that she recently went to three
different stores in search of an elusive item: organic cotton balls.
With organic food surging in popularity, retailers are now taking the concept
beyond the grocery aisle. A flurry of companies are pitching organic furniture,
linens, cosmetics -- even so-called organic leather.
But organic nonfood products aren't as tightly regulated as food. And even if
something is made with organic material, some industry experts say, that doesn't
necessarily mean it's 100% environmentally friendly.
Consumer sales of organic fiber for things like clothes and linens totaled $160
million in 2005, up 44% from the previous year, according to the Organic Trade
Association, an industry group based in Greenfield, Mass. Demand is being
driven by retailers all over the country who are introducing or expanding lines of
"green" or "eco-friendly" products.
Williams-Sonoma Inc.'s Pottery Barn is rolling out a new line of duvets, sheets
and towels made with organic cotton this spring. Furniture and textile designer Q
Collection will soon introduce a line of organic bedding for children. Retailer
Gaiam has even added organic cotton shower curtains to its product line.
The industry is catering to people like Ms. Idone, a 42-year-old creative director
from New York. Besides the organic cotton balls, Ms. Idone also has her eye out
for an organic sweater for her dog. "I don't want chemicals going into my body or
the environment," she says.
Organic food and crops are those grown without the use of most conventional
pesticides and synthetic fertilizers. Yet while buying organic textiles may support
production that's better for the environment, the immediate health benefit for
people who use the products is unclear. The American Medical Association
hasn't taken a position on the health benefits of purchasing organic products,
according to a spokesman. Cotton Inc., a not-for-profit trade organization based
in Cary, N.C., that represents U.S. importers and growers -- most of which use
nonorganic farming methods -- says on its Web site that there's no pesticide
residue on conventionally grown cotton products anyway.
The U.S. Department of Agriculture requires that product fibers like cotton or
wool that are labeled "organic" be produced without the use of most conventional
pesticides or synthetic fertilizers. However, the department doesn't regulate how
these textiles are processed. This means consumers could potentially buy a chair
made with organically grown cotton, but the chair could be treated with a
chemical dye or flame-retardant. The Organic Trade Association has standards
for textile handling and processing -- which ban things like toxic dyes -- but the
guidelines are voluntary.
Environmental advocates say there are similar issues with organically labeled
cosmetics. Labels can say they are made with organically grown products like
lavender or oranges, but still contain synthetic ingredients such as
triethanolamine or fake fragrance. "You have to really read the label," says Jane
Houlihan, vice president for research at the Environmental Working Group, a
watchdog group based in Washington, D.C. She says consumers can also check
which brands have potentially unhealthy ingredients in the group's database of
cosmetics at www.ewg.org/skindeep.
Another term frequently used to sell everything from furniture to flooring is
"sustainable." According to Jerry DeWitt, director of the Leopold Center for
Sustainable Agriculture at Iowa State University in Ames, the term
sustainable is generally defined as a production method that provides a longterm profit for the producer, protects natural resources, and has positive social
impact. But ultimately, he says, "sustainability is in the eyes of the beholder. You
don't have a litmus test." Some argue that just because something is grown
organically doesn't mean the method is sustainable.
The words "natural" and "green" can also fluster consumers. Textiles made from
100% natural cotton often mean that no dyes or chemicals were added to the
cotton, but it doesn't guarantee the cotton was grown without the use of
pesticides or other chemicals.
This can bother some purists. Jeannette Kearney, a 50-year-old homemaker in
Lexington, Mass., made a mistake several months ago when she purchased a
"green" blanket she assumed would be made from cotton grown without
pesticides. "I looked at the label, and that's when I realized it just meant there
were no additives," but not that the cotton was grown organically, she says.
The organic trend has gone beyond textiles, with some companies pitching socalled organic or sustainable leather. Q Collection offers a chair made with
leather from free-range cattle that is treated with vegetable dyes and isn't
processed with heavy metals. Organic Leather, a new company in Mill Valley,
Calif., sells everything from bed headboards to leather bangle bracelets, made
from the hides of wild animals or those raised to produce organic meat, says
founder Rowan Gabrielle.
To clarify terms for consumers, the Organic Trade Association in January
adopted comprehensive global standards for organic textiles that govern
processing. The group is also developing a logo for organic textiles -- such as
those found in furniture and linens -- that meet those standards. (For example,
the standards ban processing of the textiles with heavy metals and chemicals
such as formaldehyde, but do allow the use of synthetic sewing thread.)
And the furniture industry six months ago founded the Sustainable Furniture
Council, which aims to eventually come up with its own labeling standards for
furniture products that are currently billed as green or environmentally friendly,
says Executive Director Susan Inglis.
But the bar isn't high to join: Membership is open to any company that creates a
public statement about its commitment to environmentally friendly practices;
makes those practices transparent; and conducts a self-inquiry into its current
sourcing and manufacturing practices, according to Ms. Inglis.
She says consumers trying to make sense of the semantics should ask what
percentage of a fabric is organic, what "natural" fabric means, and look for
furniture treated with water-based finishing. They can also ask if the wood used
has been approved by the Forest Stewardship Council, an international nonprofit
that promotes responsible forestry.
Nevertheless, some retailers say consumers shouldn't get too hung up on
organic labels or certification. Denise Mari, owner of Organic Avenue, a New
York City store that carries everything from a hemp dog carrier to flax
toothbrushes, points out that materials like hemp and bamboo are increasingly
used for products like sheets or clothing. Because they are fast-growing and
don't require lots of pesticides anyway, they don't usually bear organic labels.
Meg Siegel, a senior vice president at a real-estate firm, began shopping there
and said she was amazed at the range of organic and natural products. She
recently bought the flax toothbrush, which has a handle made of the plant
material.
"Everything is just so stressful these days, I like to surround myself with healthier
things," she says.