NOTES REGARDING HISTORICAL AND REFORMATION SITES IRELAND 2010 H.G. HARKER February 2010 Overseas Travel IRELAND Page 2 TABLE OF CONTENTS IRELAND...................................................................................................................................................... 3 SDA CHURCH DETAILS ............................................................................................................................. 3 Headquarters: ................................................................................................................................................ 3 SDA Churches: ............................................................................................................................................... 3 HISTORY OF IRELAND............................................................................................................................... 4 CLIMATE AND WEATHER ......................................................................................................................... 4 HERITAGE CARDS ...................................................................................................................................... 5 DUBLIN ........................................................................................................................................................ 5 TRINITY COLLEGE ..................................................................................................................................... 5 Trinity College Library ................................................................................................................................... 5 NATIONAL GALLERY ................................................................................................................................ 5 NATIONAL MUSEUM ................................................................................................................................. 5 TREASURY BUILDING ............................................................................................................................... 6 CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL................................................................................................................ 6 ST. PATRICK’S CATHEDRAL .................................................................................................................... 6 ST. MICHAN’S CHURCH ............................................................................................................................ 6 OTHER PLACES TO SEE IN DUBLIN ........................................................................................................ 6 SOUTH FROM DUBLIN ............................................................................................................................ 7 POWERSCOURT .......................................................................................................................................... 7 KILDARE ...................................................................................................................................................... 7 MOUNT USHER GARDENS ........................................................................................................................ 7 GLENDALOUGH .......................................................................................................................................... 7 BROWNE’S HILL DOLMEN........................................................................................................................ 8 WEXFORD .................................................................................................................................................... 8 GRAIGUENAMANAGH .............................................................................................................................. 8 JERPOINT ABBEY ....................................................................................................................................... 8 KILKENNY ................................................................................................................................................... 8 WATERFORD ............................................................................................................................................... 9 ARDMORE BAY ........................................................................................................................................... 9 THE SOUTH WEST .................................................................................................................................... 9 COBH ............................................................................................................................................................. 9 BLARNEY CASTLE ..................................................................................................................................... 9 KINSDALE .................................................................................................................................................. 10 DROMBEG STONE CIRCLE...................................................................................................................... 10 THE RING OF KERRY................................................................................................................................ 10 GREAT SKELLIG ....................................................................................................................................... 10 GLENGARIFF & GARINISH ISLAND ...................................................................................................... 10 DINGLE PENINSULA ................................................................................................................................ 10 TRALEE ....................................................................................................................................................... 11 ARDFERT .................................................................................................................................................... 11 LOWER WEST .......................................................................................................................................... 11 ADARE ........................................................................................................................................................ 11 CASHEL ROCK ........................................................................................................................................... 11 CLIFFS OF MOHER .................................................................................................................................... 11 THE BURREN ............................................................................................................................................. 12 DYSERT O’DEA CASTLE.......................................................................................................................... 12 ENNIS .......................................................................................................................................................... 12 Overseas Travel IRELAND Page 3 WEST OF IRELAND ................................................................................................................................. 12 INISHMORE ISLAND ................................................................................................................................ 12 LIMMERICK ............................................................................................................................................... 12 TUROE STONE ........................................................................................................................................... 12 KILMACDAUGH ........................................................................................................................................ 13 CROAGH PATRICK ................................................................................................................................... 13 CEIDE FIELDS ............................................................................................................................................ 13 KNOCK ........................................................................................................................................................ 13 THE CENTRE OF IRELAND .................................................................................................................. 13 CLONMACNOISE ...................................................................................................................................... 13 SHANNONBRIDGE BOG RAILWAY ....................................................................................................... 14 TRIM ............................................................................................................................................................ 14 HILL OF TARA ........................................................................................................................................... 14 KELLS (CEANANNAS MOR) .................................................................................................................... 14 HILL OF SLANE ......................................................................................................................................... 14 NEWGRANGE ............................................................................................................................................ 15 BOYNE ........................................................................................................................................................ 15 DROGHEDA................................................................................................................................................ 15 MONASTERBOICE .................................................................................................................................... 15 NORTHERN IRELAND ............................................................................................................................ 15 BELFAST ..................................................................................................................................................... 16 CARRICKFERGUS ..................................................................................................................................... 16 GIANT’S CAUSEWAY ............................................................................................................................... 16 BEAGHMORE STONE CIRCLE ................................................................................................................ 16 DEVENISH ISLAND ................................................................................................................................... 16 APPENDIX 1 BIOGRAPHY OF PATRICK ................................................................................................ 17 APPENDIX 2 THE SYNOD OF CASHEL.................................................................................................. 18 IRELAND A land of the Celts and he Limerick, of green landscapes – “The Emerald Isle”, of Vikings and Normans, of battles and monasteries – with towns such as Shilleleigh and Kilkenny and others that have given so many words to our vocabulary – the land of poets and songwriters, of troubled national and religious struggles – Ireland – truly a fascinating country to visit. SDA CHURCH DETAILS Headquarters: Address: 9 Newry Road, Banbridge, County Down BT32 3HF, Northern Ireland. Phone: +44 (28) 4062-6361 Fax: +44 (28) 4062-6361 SDA Churches: Armagh 2 Sandymount Road, Richill, County Armagh Ballinacrow SDA Church, Stratford-on-Slaney, Near Baltinglass, County Wicklow, Eire Overseas Travel IRELAND Page 4 Banbridge SDA Church, 9 Newry Road, County Down. Belfast SDA Church, 74 Lisburn Road BT9 Coleraine SDA Church, 1 Ratheane Avenue, Mountsandel Rd, County Londonderry Cork Hillcrest Temple Hill, Carrigrohane, County Cork Dublin SDA Church, 47a Ranelagh Road, Ranelagh. Dublin 6. Enniskillen 56 Derryclawan Road, Ballylucas, Enniskillen, County Fermanagh. Galway SDA Church, Grianach House, Murrough, County Galway. Larne SDA Church, Thorndale Avenue, County Antrim. Londonderry SDA Church, 58 Prehen Road, Londonderry. Newmarket Kilnasoolagh, Newmarket-on-Fergus, County Clare (Near Shannon). HISTORY OF IRELAND The Romans never reached Ireland. Christianity arrived in the 5th century with Patrick being taken from Wales as a slave. Ireland subsequently had many monasteries with a number of manuscripts written (such as the Book of Kells). The Vikings at first plundered the country and the monasteries but later settled and ruled most of the country. The Vikings were defeated at the Battle of Clontarf in 1014 by Brian Boru who became an Irish hero. Henry II the Norman King of England invaded Ireland in 1168. Gradually the English retrenched to an area known as “The Pale” hence the term – “beyond the pale”. Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth attacked Catholic Ireland and many English settlers were moved to Ireland. After a disastrous defeat in 1607 many Irish lords left for France in the “Flight of the Earls”. In 1641 Catholics rebelled in Ulster and massacred many Protestants. Oliver Cromwell, after his victory over Charles I in 1649, went to Ireland and left a burnt out country, shipping many Irish slaves to the West Indies. James II tried to use Ireland to launch a return to the crown of England, but was defeated at the Battle of the Boyne 1690. In the 18th century after the American and French revolutions, Irish had hopes but these were dashed to disaster by the British. The population of Ireland doubled to 8 million between 1800 and 1840 when in the latter 1840’s the failure of the potato crops led to mass migration – many to the USA -or death. Over 2 million either died or left for other countries. An Irish rebellion in 1916 made martyrs from the ringleaders. A treaty was signed in 1921 followed by a civil war giving Britain the Northern Ireland area of six counties. In 1949 Ireland left the British Commonwealth to become a republic. And so the north, divided on religious grounds, continues an uneasy path. SEE APPENDIX 1 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF PATRICK CLIMATE AND WEATHER Ireland is known as “The Emerald Isle” which is the result of rain. Overseas Travel IRELAND Page 5 Even the drier parts of the island receive 150 days of rain per year. So be prepared and have a raincoat and umbrella. May and June are the drier months. The temperature ranges from 2° to 4° for a January/February average to 17° to 20° for a July/August average. Even in summer be prepared for cold days. HERITAGE CARDS If you are planning to visit a number of sites such as monuments, parks and gardens, it would be advisable to purchase a Heritage Card. These are available from the Office of Public Works. The Card will entitle you to unlimited access to such places for a whole year. Cost is fairly minimal. DUBLIN TRINITY COLLEGE Founded by Elizabeth I in 1592. For hundreds of years it was an exclusively Protestant institution. Trinity College Library Is located on Trinity College Campus. There is an admission charge. The “Long Room” has thousands of priceless manuscripts and books published prior to 1800. The very old “Irish Harp” is also kept here. It was believed to have belonged to Brian Boru, but since dated much later. The Book of Kells is kept here in the Colannades Gallery. It is an illustrated copy of the Gospels which had been copied in the early 9th century at Kells. It is exceptionally well ornamented and is regarded as the most important book in Ireland. One page is turned each day. The audiovisual “The Dublin Experience” can be seen here. Note the statue of Oliver Goldsmith to one side at the entrance to Trinity College. Edmund Bourke is on the other side. NATIONAL GALLERY It is situated on Merrion Square West It dates to 1864. There is a statue of Geroge Bernard Shaw at the entrance. It has a large collection of Old Masters. NATIONAL MUSEUM Along with the National Library, Natural History Museum and National Gallery, all are together on Merrion Square West a couple of blocks from Trinity College across Nassau Street. It has e3xhibits of Viking life in Dublin. It also has exhibits of pre-historic early Christian Medieval life in Ireland. Overseas Travel IRELAND Page 6 The most famous exhibits include the Tara Brooch, Ardagh Chalice, and the Cross of Cong. The “Gold Room” has wonderful ancient gold ornaments, vessels etc from the Bronze Age. TREASURY BUILDING Is situated in the same building as the National Museum. Amongst other Irish antiques, it has the famous Tara bronze Brooch, decorated with gold filigree, enamel, amber and glass. CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL Is situated in Christ Church Place. It was built in 1172 and rebuilt in the late 19th century. The founding of the original church dates to 1038 by Donat the first Bishop of Dublin and the Norse King Sitric (Sigtrygg Silkbeard). The crypt is fascinating = it runs the entire length of the Cathedral and has many interesting exhibits including stocks – which were used near the cathedral. The interior wall has a very pronounced lean and is said to have been built by the Danes. ST. PATRICK’S CATHEDRAL Is situated in St. Patrick’s Street- and was supposedly on the small island where Patrick baptised converts. It was built 25 years after the Christ Church Cathedral. Jonathan Swift (author of Gulliver’s Travels) was the dean from 1713 – 1745. He is buried in the south aisle. His famous epitaph now hangs above the door of the robing room. Also is the grave of his friend “Stella” and Swift’s tribute to her. The Cathedral is of Gothic architecture with an imposing square tower. It was refurbished in the late 19th century by the Guinness family. It has a Choir School for boys, choristers for the cathedral (worth hearing – Matins etc) Flags of the Irish regiments are on display. ST. MICHAN’S CHURCH Is situated on Lower Church Street and well worth a visit. It is built on the site on an ancient oak forest, which may have something to do with the preservative atmosphere. It is noted for the preserved bodies in the crypt (because of the porous limestone walls) and are seen similar to Egyptian mummies. See the Penitents’ Stool. The organ is said to the be instrument on which Handel practised “The Messiah” prior to the first public performance which took place in Dublin. OTHER PLACES TO SEE IN DUBLIN St. Stephen’s Green (scene of the 1916 uprising) with an excellent new shopping complex in the vicinity. Overseas Travel IRELAND Page 7 The Merrion Square (Park) – it has Georgian architecture with unique fanlights and doors. Dublin Castle – in Dame Street. It was for 7 centuries the symbol of English rule. The Throne Room has a throne given by William of Orange after the Battle of the Boyne. River Liffey and the Halfpenny Bridge. St. Andrew’s Church on High Street dates to the late 12th century and is the oldest parish church in the city. Phoenix Park – the largest park in Europe and includes the Dublin Zoo. SOUTH FROM DUBLIN POWERSCOURT Is situated on the N11 about 35 km south of Dublin in Enniskerry, County Wicklow. There is wonderful scenery en route from Dublin. Here is one of the ‘Great Gardens of Europe’ – in fact acres of gardens. Well worth the visit. The 100 room mansion was destroyed by fire in 1974. Today the shell remains intact. KILDARE Is about 50 km southwest of Dublin on the N7 road. Here is a roofless Celtic Round Tower from the 12th century that stands next to St. Brigid’s Cathedral – named after the founding saint of the religious community about 490 AD. Nearby to Kildare is Kilkullen, where imposing high crosses stand in the cemetery. Some tombs date to the Middle Ages. Kilkea Castle – a medieval castle with strong fortifications is here. MOUNT USHER GARDENS Is located near Ashford (in County Wicklow) about 45 km south of Dublin on the N11, on the River Vartry. These gardens were made in 1868 by Edward Walpole from Dublin with trees and shrubs from all over the world. Try the Maple Walk in October. GLENDALOUGH Is situated on the R755 (near the junction with the R756) approx 50 km south from Dublin coming along the R755 – or take the road from Wicklow. It is a ‘must see’. These roads are part of the Military Road built by the British after the uprising of 1798 to isolate and find the rebels. Established by St. Kevin around c. 520AD the monastery was sacked countless times by the Vikings. Kevin was born around 498 of royal lineage but chose more a hermit’s life. Two picturesque lakes give Glendalough a great setting. Most buildings date from between the 8th and 12th centuries. Overseas Travel IRELAND Page 8 The first group of buildings near the road include the Gatehouse, the Cathedral; a Celtic Round Tower 5 stories high and St. Kevin’s Cross – a well preserved High Cross. The other group about 1.5 km further along the R757 include the ruins of Reefert Church (nearby is Poulanass waterfall), St. Kevin’s cell – the ruins of a beehive structure and probably his home. Near the lake, but with no access by foot, is the “Church on the Rock” (Teampall-naSkellig) – probably the site of the original church here; and a rocky ledge or cave known as St. Kevin’s Bed. Walks lead off from here through the valley to abandoned lead and zinc mines. BROWNE’S HILL DOLMEN Are situated just a short distance southeast of Carlow on the N80. One dolmen has the largest capstone of any dolmen in Ireland. The Dolmen date to 2000 BC and the capstone weighs 100 tonnes. WEXFORD Is situated on the southeast corner of Ireland. The ruined Selskar Abbey is the result of Cromwell’s rampage through Ireland. In 1170 Henry II spent 40 days (Lent) in the Abbey as penitence for murdering Thomas à Beckett at Canterbury Cathedral. The Irish National heritage Park is just to the northwest of the town. A statue in The Crescent of Commodore John Barry (1745 – 1803), founder of the US Navy, was unveiled by President John F. Kennedy. GRAIGUENAMANAGH Is situated about 40 km north of New Ross. Is best known for Druiske Abbey, the largest Cistercian Church in Ireland, now restored and used as a church. Two 9th century granite High Crosses are outside the church. JERPOINT ABBEY Is situated about 30 km north of Waterford and 10 km or so west of Craiguenamanagh Is one of the finest Cistercian ruins in Ireland. It was used until the Dissolution of the Monasteries. Sculptures in the cloisters and a well-preserved church are here. KILKENNY Is situated around 40 km north of Waterford (using the N9 and N10) or about 30 km northwest of Jerpoint Abbey. It has excellent shopping for tourists. St. Canice’s Cathedral (where Cromwell stabled his horses) is here. The tomb of Piers Butler (said to be the illegitimate son of Elizabeth I and “Black Bob” Butler) and his wife Margaret have stone effigies. Here also is the 13th century Dominican Black Abbey. Overseas Travel IRELAND Page 9 WATERFORD Is situated about 150 km south-southwest of Dublin on the southeastern coast. Here Reginald’s Tower is located on the harbourside. It was first erected in 1003 as part of Viking defences of Waterford, and then later the Normans built the present structure with walls 3 m thick. It has been a fortress, a prison, and a site for the mint and now a museum. Between the Cathedral) with a 15th century effigy of a rotting corpse) and the river are the ruins of Grey Friars – known as the French Church since the Huguenots used it from 1693. Waterford is also known worldwide for its famous crystal and the factory 2.5 km south of the town centre is open for tours. ARDMORE BAY Is situated some 150 km southwest of Waterford on the coast. Here are the monastic remains of St. Declans on Ardmore Bay which was first established in the 5th century. The ruined Cathedral has some great Romanesque sculptures including “Michael Weighing Souls”, “The Adoration of the Magi” and “The Judgement of Solomon”. The Ardmore Round Tower is 30 m high and one of the best preserved in Ireland. An Oratory here marks Declan’s grave. THE SOUTH WEST COBH Is pronounced “Cove”. Is a seaport often used in the 19th century by emigrants. It is the harbour for Cork. Literally thousands of emigrants left here for the USA, Australia etc following the Great Potato Famine of the 1840’s. Queen Victoria visited here in 1849 and the town was called Queenstown from then until 1921. This was the last port of call for the “Titanic” in 1912. There is also a memorial to the “Lusitania”. The rescue boats went out from here. St. Colman’s Cathedral is here. BLARNEY CASTLE Is located about 5 km northwest of Cork on the N20. It is situated in beautiful parklands. The Castle was built in the 15th century. Most visitors come here to “Kiss the Blarney Stone” hoping for the bestowal of eloquence. (As the stone is below the castle battlements, the person must be suspended backwards by the feet to do this). At the Blarney Woollen Mills, there is an excellent choice of Irish goods, including linen and crystal, porcelain, clothing (woollen, tweed) music etc etc. There is a VAT rebate available for overseas customers. Overseas Travel IRELAND Page 10 KINSDALE Is located about 20 km southwest of Cork. Here is a memorial on the harbour promenade placed here to honour those who died when the Lusitania was torpedoed in 1915. Charles Fort is a star-shaped fortress just 3 km east of Kinsdale. It was built to prevent an attack from the sea. William of Orange besieged and captured it in 1690. DROMBEG STONE CIRCLE Is situated on the coast about 30 km southwest of Kinsdale on the Glandore road and very difficult to find. It is many km off the beaten track and there are few signposts if any. These 17 standing stones make up the best stone circle (of many) in Ireland. The stones date to 150 BC. THE RING OF KERRY This is the road around the Iveragh Peninsula (180 km) with views of mountains, seacoast and villages. The Staigue Fort is a dry stone fort and the best-preserved example of this in Ireland. It is on the southern side of the peninsula. The Lakes of Killarney are also seen on this journey and the area has good waterfalls. Ross Castle on the edge of the lake was the last fortress to be captured by Cromwell in Ireland. GREAT SKELLIG Is an island off the coast on the southwestern tip of the Iveragh Peninsula – also called Skellig Michael. Here an ancient stairway lets the visitor climb the 218 m about sea level to see the unusual ruins of a monastery that dates back to the 6th century. Here beehive cells and boat-shaped oratories are dry stone buildings – still standing. Monks from this monastery used the skins of animals to make vellum for their manuscripts. Birds are the only inhabitants today. GLENGARIFF & GARINISH ISLAND Accessible only by ferry. A beautiful Italian Garden is on Garnish Island. DINGLE PENINSULA This peninsula has the most westerly point of Ireland (Dunmore Head) in Co. Kerry. Is an excellent alternative if you don’t want the long trip around the Ring of Kerry. It is very picturesque and unspoilt. The road is approximately 40 km in length. On the southern side of the peninsula is Dunbeg Fort which dates from the Iron Age. Here are also some beehive huts of Christian origin. At Mount Eagle – many ancient relics were found. At Slea Head is the Sculpture of the Crucifixion. Overseas Travel IRELAND Page 11 At Riasc (An Riasc) on the northern part of the ring road is the excavation of a 7th century monastic settlement with an inscribed pillar stone. On the northeastern section of this ring road is Gallarus Oratory – a dry stone church shaped like an up-turned boat, built between the 6th and 9th centuries and still in almost perfect condition. TRALEE Is situated at the head of the bay north of the Dingle Peninsula. Tralee has its famous Rose of Tralee fountain in the Town Park and hosts the International Rose of Tralee Festival at the end of August. ARDFERT Is situated just a little northwest of Tralee on the coast. St. Bendan was born hear here in 484 and founded a monastery. The ruined cathedral dates to the 12th century. Just northwest of Ardfert is Banna Strand where Irish patriot Roger Casement landed in 1916 from a German U-Boat with rifles for the Easter rising. He was captured as soon as he landed and a memorial marks the place. LOWER WEST ADARE Is located some 25 km southwest of Limerick County. It is known as one of the prettiest villages in Ireland (has some thatched cottages). At the Tourist Centre is an exhibition on the monastic history of Adare. The ruins of the monasteries are here; including Adare Manor which is set in beautiful parklands – now a 5 star hotel. CASHEL ROCK Is situated about 30 km northeast of Tipperary on the N74 in County Tipperary. It is a “Must” to visit. The magnificent ruins of the Rock of Cashel dominate the town. An interesting museum is at the entrance, in the Hall of the Vicars Choral. Here the Munster kings reigned from the 4th century. Patrick baptised King Aengus here – and pierced his foot with his staff. Here are the Cathedral, Cormac’s 13th century chapel, a Round Tower and the High Cross of Cashel – with a carving of Patrick. At the entrance to the Cathedral are three figures flanked by Columba and Aidan. The ruins of Hore Abbey are in the fields not far from Cashel Rock. The famous or infamous Synod of Cashel took place here in 1172. SEE APPENDIX 2 FOR SUMMARY OF THE SYNOD OF CASHEL CLIFFS OF MOHER Are located about 60 km northwest of Limerick in County Clare. These cliffs are 200 m high and extend for 9 km – a majestic sight. Obrien’s Tower overlooks the cliffs. Overseas Travel IRELAND Page 12 Thousands of birds nest along the cliff face. Visit Burren Centre at Kilfenora. THE BURREN Is situated northwest of Ennis and northeast of the Cliffs of Moher. These are smooth limestone rocks covering the plateau in County Clare. Remarkable flora and fauna are here. Cromwell said “It had not enough water to drown a man, not enough trees to hang him, nor soil enough to bury him” – it looks like a ‘Moonscape’. In the midst of this barren area is Poulnabrone Dolmen, a portal tomb dating to 2500 BC. There are other prehistoric tombs in the area. Just north of the Dolmen is a wedge tomb. DYSERT O’DEA CASTLE Is situated on a rocky outcrop 9 km north of Ennis. An Archaeology Centre has local finds. Ruined castles, forts and a monastery are here. ENNIS Is situated about 35 km northwest of Limerick. It is said to be a charming country town with narrow winding lanes. A ruined 13th century friary is an attraction. WEST OF IRELAND INISHMORE ISLAND Is the largest of the Aran Islands in Galway Bay. Here in a patchwork quilt of dry-stone fenced paddocks are ancient ruins, also seen at Galway. Dun Eoghanachta in the centre west of the island is a 1st century BC stone wall fort. Na Seacht d’Teampaill (so called Seven Churches) is on the north coast (western end) and has the ruins of a monastic settlement. Other Bronze Age forts such as Dun Eochjle and Dun Aonghasa are cliff-top sites. Visit the Twelve Bens (mountains) of Connermara. Some of the highest mountains in Ireland are in Connemara. LIMMERICK Is an interesting 800-year-old city. See St. Mary’s Cathedral and King John’s Castle – from 1210. Notice the Treaty Stone at the end of the bridge over the River Shannon. TUROE STONE Is situated in a Pet Farm and Leisure Park near Balluan Village on the R350. It is a white granite boulder 1 m high dating to the 2nd or 3rd century BC with graceful swirling patterns. Overseas Travel IRELAND Page 13 KILMACDAUGH Is situated some 5 km southwest of Gort. Here are the ruins of a monastic settlement of the 7th century founded by St. Colman MacDaugh. A Round Tower and a ruined cathedral are the main attractions. CROAGH PATRICK Is situated on the R335 on the coast near the village of Murrisk where there is a large statue of Patrick. It is in County Mayo. It is regarded as Ireland’s Holy Mountain where each year, thousands of pilgrims make the 2-hour climb to the top. It was the location of pagan worship as far back as 3000 BC. St. Patrick is reported to have spent 40 days on the mountain fasting and praying for the Irish. CEIDE FIELDS Is situated about 8 km west of Ballycastle County at the northwest of the peninsula in County Mayo. The Heritage Centre gives the history of many ancient settlements in the area. It is Europe’s largest Stone Age land enclosure (over 10 sq kms). Some date it to 3000 BC. It has been covered by the creeping bog formation which preserved stone fences etc. KNOCK It is situated some 15 km north of Knock Village in Co Mayo. Here a Shrine has been built where in 1879 two women saw an apparition of Mary with Joseph and John, on the south gable of the old parish church. It has become a famous pilgrimage site (including a visit by Pope John Paul II in 1979). Here is a new modern basilica – Ireland’s largest church – which can hold 20,000 people. Over 1 million pilgrims a year visit Knock. THE CENTRE OF IRELAND CLONMACNOISE Is situated right in the centre of Ireland in County Offaly by the River Shannon. It was founded by St. Ciaran in the 6th century as a monastery. Here Christian Schools taught the Scriptures up to 3000 students. Many Irish kings of Tara and Connaught are buried here. Note the ruins of the tall Round Tower approx 19 m high built by the Celts for protection from marauders. Overseas Travel IRELAND Page 14 The Cathedral ruins are noted for the Whispering Door (whispers in the doorway are audible inside the building). Above the doorway are carvings of Patrick with St. Francis and St. Dominic. Pope John Paul visited here in 1979. A cross with Biblical scenes dates from the 9th century – the original is in the museum. The Visitor’s Centre is interesting with three High Crosses. SHANNONBRIDGE BOG RAILWAY Is situated just south of Clonmacnoise. The interesting tour by train takes visitors for 45 minutes through the bogland detailing the formation of peat and showing the harvesting of peat. TRIM Is an interesting town on the R161. Trim Castle has its origins as far back as 1173. This castle is used for film sets – eg “Braveheart”. It is one of the largest medieval castles in Ireland. HILL OF TARA This hill is near Killmessan Village on the N3. It was the spiritual and political centre of Ireland until the 11th century. A statue of Patrick is here. The Royal Enclosure is the remains of an oval fort with Cormac’s House which has the “Stone of Destiny” – an ancient fertility symbol and used for the coronation of the High Kings of Ireland. KELLS (CEANANNAS MOR) Is located in County Meath at the intersection of the N3 and N52. Here in the 6th century, St. Columba was granted a site for a monastery. The monks finally left for Iona in 806 AD. Here an early Christian church is found. A copy of the Book of Kells etc (written here) is kept here. The Book of Kells is an early elaborately decorated copy of the Scriptures – now kept in Trinity College, Dublin. St. Columba’s House is a stone oratory – similar to St. Kevin’s Kitchen at Glendalough. Note the Christian High Cross in the centre of the town near the museum – it was originally from the monastery. It was used as a gallows in the 1798 uprising. HILL OF SLANE Is situated some 25 km east of Kells or nearly 20 km southwest of Monasterboice. Patrick returned to Ireland after studying with Christian leaders and came here first. Here one of the Kings of Tara saw a fire on the Hill of Slane at Easter time. As it was against the pagan customs, the king asked his men to extinguish the fire. The men met Patrick and were so impressed by him; they invited him down to meet King McCormac. Overseas Travel IRELAND Page 15 King McCormac and many of his subjects became Christians. NEWGRANGE Is situated about 8 km east of Slane. This Neolithic Tomb is a “must see”. It is one of the most important passage graves of Europe. The kings of Tara are believed to be buried here. On the winter solstice (Dec 21) sunlight entered the tomb. Newgrange has been restored as closely as possible to the original. There are guided tours. Besides Newgrange other passage graves are Dowth and Knowth. BOYNE Is situated about 8 km east of Slane. On 1 July 1690 at the Battle of the Boyne at Oldbridge west of Drogheda, on the banks of the Boyne River, William of Orange with French, Dutch, English and Scottish soldiers routed James II who had the throne of England in 1688. This battle ushered in the Protestant reign of Ireland. DROGHEDA Is situated near the coast on the N1 and about 60 km north of Dublin and some 20 km east of Slane. It is an interesting town. It has St. Lawrence’s Gate and St. Peter’s Church in the town centre. There are relics of St. Oliver Plunkett including his embalmed head kept in a gold case near the front of the church. MONASTERBOICE Is situated in County Louth on the N11 just a little north of Drogheda, and not far from the central eastern coast. It is one of the most famous religious sites in Ireland. Here is found the remnants of a tall 9th century Celtic Round Tower, 34 m high (110 ft), and the ruins of the Monasterboice Monastery founded in the 5th century by St. Buithe, a disciple of Patrick. It is famous for Muireadach’s Celtic High Cross with scenes of the life of Jesus and also Old Testament scenes. The best examples of High Crosses are to be found here. The West High Cross is known as the Tall Cross (6.5 m high) and is near the Round Tower. In the same area is Mellifont Abbey, the ruins of Ireland’s most important early Cistercian monastery. There are the remains of gatehouse, church and an unusual octagonal Lavabo. NORTHERN IRELAND Overseas Travel IRELAND Page 16 BELFAST Is the capital of Northern Ireland – that part of Ireland which is part of the United Kingdom. In the City Hall is a monument to those who died in the Titanic sinking in 1912, as well as one to Harland the founder of the Shipyard which built the ship. The Ulster Museum has a good display of history and antiquities and some pieces recovered from wrecks from the Spanish Armada. The Giant’s Ring is situated 5 km south of the city centre. It is a 200 m circular enclosure (it had a Dolmen in the centre). CARRICKFERGUS Is situated on northern shore of Belfast Lough. The name means “Rock of Fergus”. It was named after the 6th century Irish king Fergus Mór mac Eirc. It is a large town in County Antrim. It has Carrickfergus Castle – one of the best Norman castles in Ireland – built around 1180AD. The forces of Elizabeth I were defeated here in 1597. On 23 August 1689 Marshall Schornberg landed English forces here to eventually defeat ones raised by the deposed king of England James II. In 1778 one of the first battles of the American War of Independence was fought here when a British navy ship was attacked and forced to surrender. Jonathan Swift the satirist and writer lived here. GIANT’S CAUSEWAY Is situated on the northern coast. Is Ireland’s only World Heritage listing. The basalt columns, mostly hexagonal, but some with 4, 5 or 8 sides, are matched with a similar formation on the island of Staffa off the Scottish coast. BEAGHMORE STONE CIRCLE Is situated closer to the A505. It has a huge number of stone monuments and stone circles dating from 200 to 1200 BC. None of the stones are more than just over a metre in height. The whole area was covered with peat until 1945. DEVENISH ISLAND Is situated near Enniskillen. It has the ruins of a monastery from the 6th century. Up to 1500 scholars were educated here. The Round Tower is 25 m high and is spectacular. Overseas Travel IRELAND Page 17 APPENDIX 1 BIOGRAPHY OF PATRICK Patrick is regarded as the patron saint of Ireland – the one who brought Christianity to the country. He lived around 389 – 461 AD. He was the son of Calpurnius (or Calpornius) a deacon of his church. He was born probably at Bonnaven, Scotland – between Dumbarton and Glasgow, and now called Kilpatrick. He was captured by Irish pirates when 16 years of age and taken to Ireland, where he probably tended sheep in either Antrim or Mayo counties. Here as a young lad he was converted. Patrick escaped after 6 years and made his way home. Later he travelled to Gaul, and seems to have spent some time in Auxerre with Germanus. It is reported that he studied at the monastery of Lérins from 412 to 415 AD. Catholics claim that Pope Celestine sent Palladius, a bishop, to evangelise Ireland in 431 AD. Palladius died within a year and Patrick was sent to take his place, and worked in the north of the island in Leinster or Ulster. Patrick however never mentioned any commission from Rome as his authority when he came to Ireland. Other historians (Cathcart etc) note that Patrick was never a Roman Catholic, and that Patrick’s churches in Ireland repudiated the supremacy of the popes and that he was never commissioned by them to go to Ireland. Further, no popes of his time mention Patrick, nor do they rejoice over his missionary successes, and he is not mentioned in Catholic sources until 638 AD – over 170 years after his death! Even Bede makes no mention of Patrick! Catholic historians have written of his visit to Rome, but Muirchu who wrote over 200 years after Patrick’s death declared that Patrick at no time visited Rome. There are 3 reasons why Patrick could not have been a Roman Catholic missionary: a) Early Catholic historians and popes avoided any mention of Patrick and his work, and only later legendary stories represent him as a saint. b) When Papal missionaries landed in Britain in 596 AD, the Celtic church refused to accept their doctrines or to acknowledge their authority, and c) The doctrines of Patrick’s Celtic Church differed so widely from the Roman Church that the Church in Ireland could not have been considered Catholic, and further that Patrick was probably a Sabbath-keeper as the churches he established – and those established in Scotland and England were also Sabbath keepers. (Facts of Faith). In 458, Patrick went to Tara and the court of the High King Laoghaire and despite opposition, several members of the royal house were converted. He established territorial bishoprics on tribal lines and introduced some form of communal ascetic life. Patrick is reported to have made a 40 day fast on Croagh Patrick. Columba (521 – 597AD) came from these Irish centres to establish Celtic Christianity on Iona and make it a missionary centre. It was only later, after the foundation of a monastery by Finnian at Clonard in Meath, that the monastic centres became the pastoral centres of the Irish Church. Overseas Travel IRELAND Page 18 APPENDIX 2 THE SYNOD OF CASHEL The Synod of Cashel was one of the most important events in Irish history. At this Synod the clergy and people of Ireland were called on to have Henry II as their king and of course give their allegiance to the Pope as head of the church. The Bulls of Adrian IV and Alexander III were read on the Pope’s orders. The Primate of the Irish church refused to attend. Here the history of Ireland was changed and Rome subjugated the church The Synod was held in 1172 and obviously at Cashel. Bibliography: Wikipedia Article Synod of Cashel Article by Christ Richards ‘The Protestant Ethos of English Literature’ published in “The Reformer” Jan/Feb 2010 Issue