RABBIT AWARENESS WEEK
We are taking part in the annual event to help promote
appropriate rabbit care to their owners. We are offering free
health check for rabbits and a chance for owners to ask our
veterinary team questions.
We are also promoting a new vaccine: Nobivac has just released a new vaccine that protects against
both Myxomatosis and Rabbit haemorrhagic Disease in 1 simple
injection. This vaccine has to be given annually.
WHAT A RABBIT NEEDS TO STAY HAPPY AND HEALTHY
ENVIRONMENT
OUTSIDE:  An enclosure or hutch situated in a sheltered area away
from direct sunlight.
 The area should be well ventilated and waterproof.
 Rabbits should be able to AT LEAST, stretch out fully,
stand up-right on their hind legs and be able to take 3
“hops” from one side to the other if in a hutch.
Remember your rabbit should be exercised daily if in a
small enclosure.
 A nesting area should be provided. It should be closed
off from the rest of the enclosure and outside. It should
be bedded with absorbent materials e.g. newspaper/ wood
shavings and hay and/ or straw.
 Rabbits like to burrow so runs or enclosures should be
made to stop them from escaping.
 Runs or enclosures should also be high enough or have a
covering over the top to prevent escape and to provide
protection from predators.
 Various hiding places should be provided e.g. cardboard
boxes or drain pipes.
INSIDE:  A secure caged area away from “hustle & bustle”.
 Exercise should be encouraged around the house and in
the garden. Some rabbits have even figured out how to
use a cat flap for both indoor and garden access.
 Rabbits can be easily litter trained. This can be done by
associating the tray with doing the toilet e.g. by
repeatedly placing the rabbit in it or placing some
droppings in the tray. You can also do it by allowing the
rabbit to select a corner of its enclosure for a toilet and
place the tray in that area. Wood or paper based litter
should be used.
 Rabbits like to chew – electrical cables must be
protected and poisonous house plants avoided. Chew toys
can be provided e.g. cardboard boxes, telephone
directories, straw baskets and bird toys.
DIET
 Hay or grass should make up the majority of a rabbits
diet.
 This diet should be supplemented with fresh green
vegetables e.g. kale, cabbage, spinach or watercress and
the leaves of root vegetables and wild plants e.g. bramble,
groundsel, chickweed or dandelion.
 Hay could be fed from racks or nets to increase time
spent eating therefore reducing boredom
 Pellet food should only make up a small part of a rabbits
diet. Most of these diets have a higher composition of
fibre and protein than that of grass (of which a wild
rabbits diet is solely) therefore causing obesity and/ or
dental problems in the domestic rabbit.
 Grass has a nutritional composition of approximately 2025% crude fibre, 15% crude and 2-3% fat. Pellets of the
same composition should be offered as a small part of a
rabbits diet.
 Rabbits are fussy eaters and will always pick out the
tasty bits first and leave the most beneficial bits behind.
For this reason museli type diets are not ideal.
 Feeding your rabbit on mainly a grass and/ or hay diet
ensures they get enough fibre. They need a high fibre
diet to encourage gut motility, which is vital for rabbits
to survive. It also encourages them to chew more
ensuring that their ever growing teeth get worn down.
This prevents them from getting dental problems.
 Treats such as carrots, other root vegetables and small
pieces of fruit can be given but not as part of their diet.
Believe it or not these “treats” are fairly calorific to
rabbits therefore causing obesity.
 Rabbits drink approximately 10% of their bodyweight
daily. Water can be offered in either a water bottle or
bowl.
***You may want to use a bottle for a female rabbit because it
will prevent water getting on their dewlap and potentially
causing skin problems***
DISEASES
MYXOMATOSIS: - is a disease caused by a virus (POXVIRUS)
spread by fleas, mites and biting flies. It can also be spread by
direct contact between infected rabbits.
Initial signs of the disease are swollen
head/ face, conjunctivitis and discharge
from nose and mouth. Swelling around the
genital area can also occur.
Due to these symptoms, eating and drinking becomes difficult.
They also suffer from a high temperature.
Recovery from myxomatosis is very rare and death usually
occurs around 12 days. Euthanasia is advised due to poor
prognosis to prevent suffering.
An annual vaccination is advised to prevent this disease.
RABBIT HAEMMORHAGIC DISEASE (RHD): - also known as
Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD). It is spread by direct and
indirect contact – between rabbits, insects, people, clothing,
shoes and other objects.
Initial signs are high temperature, depression, bleeding from
nose and/ or mouth and spontaneous death.
Regular flea and fly control are advised to prevent this disease
as well as an annual vaccination.
ENCEPHALITOZOON CUNICULI (E. CUNICULI): - this is a
parasite that effects rabbits kidneys and Central Nervous
System (CNS).
Initial signs are chronic weight loss, drinking &urinating a lot
and paralysis and/ or tremors. It can also cause eye disease.
Not all rabbits show signs of illness but can shed spores in
their urine. It is important to keep their enclosure clean and
that fresh food and water is given daily.
This disease can be treated with a 28 day course of
anthelmintics.
OTHER HEALTH PROBLEMS TO BE AWARE OF
FLYSTRIKE: - this occurs in warm weather conditions. It is
caused when rabbits either have a sore area or have urine/
faecal soiling around their rear end. This attracts flies that
then lay eggs in the sores or soiled fur. The eggs then hatch
into maggots that feed on the surrounding tissue. If left
untreated the effects can be fatal.
This condition is rarely seen in Orkney. Probably due to the
lack of warm weather!!
Flystrike can be prevented by: - keeping enclosure clean and dry
- feeding correct diet to prevent obesity/ diarrhoea.
If your rabbit is overweight it won’t be able to
reach its anus to eat caecotrophs*. It will also not
be able to clean its back end if too overweight.
- Checking your rabbit daily for any abnormalities.
- Using correct insecticides and repellents.
FLEAS: - yes rabbits can get fleas too! Signs to look for are
scratching around the neck and biting around tail area.
A spot-on treatment for fleas is available to treat and prevent
infestation.
SOCIALISING
Rabbits are sociable animals and like us humans can become
lonely.
It is best to introduce new rabbits to each other slowly to
prevent fighting.
Regardless of what sex your rabbit is we advise neutering if
they are to be kept together to greatly reduce the risk of
them fighting. As well as fighting neutering will also prevent
unwanted pregnancies and the risk of uterine cancer in
females.
***for more details on neutering please feel from to contact
the surgery or pop in for a chat with one of our nurses***
GUINEA PIGS as a companion for a rabbit is not advised. This
is because each species interacts in completely different ways,
usually resulting in the guinea pig getting bullied. Rabbits can
also pass a bacteria onto guinea pigs causing respiratory
disease. Guinea pigs also have different dietary needs from a
rabbit.
HANDLING
 Rabbits are ground living creatures so
may find being lifted and carried
distressing.
 Try interacting on ground level with your
rabbit.
 Rabbits are prey animals so feel
intimated when approached from above.
 Remember to support their back end
when lifting
 Never pick up a rabbit by their ears.