7500 N. Western
Oklahoma City, OK 73116
Foster Handbook
A Reference Guide for
Foster Volunteers
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OK Humane Contact Sheet for Foster Parents
Please keep this page in a convenient place!
Volunteer & Foster Coordinator
General animal questions
Corrie Graybill - corrie.graybill@okhumane.org
(405) 286-1229 ext. 6
Alyssa Pusecker
Alyssa.pusecker@okhumane.org
OK Humane SE In-House Clinic
Contact for if your foster animal becomes ill:
745 SE 26th Street
405-286-1229 ext. 7
Monday-Friday: 9:00 am – 5:30 pm
Saturday: 10 am – 5 pm
Adoption program animals are seen by appointment, please call to schedule
Contact for After Hours Medical Emergency
(405) 830-3780 - Receives calls and texts. – Please leave a detailed message and if it is a lifethreatening emergency your call will be returned with 30 minutes. If it is not an emergency, call the
clinic during normal business hours.
OK Humane Place Spay/Neuter Clinic
6002 S Western
405-947-7729
foster.clinic@okhumane.org
Monday-Friday: 8:00 am – 6:00pm
Closed Saturday and Sunday
Drop off for spay/neuter surgery: 8:00 – 8:30 am Pick up after spay/neuter surgery: 4:30 – 5:00 pm
Adoption Center
7500 N. Western
405-286-1229 ext. 4
*Closed Monday*
Tuesday - Saturday: 11 am - 7 pm
Sunday: 12 pm – 5 pm
Drop off for fosters at Adoption Center:
Weekdays– 7:30am-11:00am
Saturday – 9:00am-11:00am
Sunday – 10:00am – 12:00pm
Pick up is as close to closing time as possible. Many adoptions happen after traditional business
hours, so please leave fosters until close of business so they have the best chance of being adopted!
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How the Foster Program Works
1. You will provide information on what type of animal you would like to foster. Example – a
litter of kittens, one puppy, one small breed adult dog etc.
2. The Intake Coordinator will choose appropriate animals for our program and for you, as a
foster home. The Foster Coordinator will call you when animal(s) are ready for you to foster.
The Foster coordinator will also email all fosters in a mass email to inform everyone of the
animals to be received within the next few days. Typical pick up of your foster(s) is at the In
House Clinic (745 SE 26th St).
3. Foster animals that have been through the shelter will need to do a 2 week adoption
preparation period in their foster home. This is so that we can watch for signs of illness and
treat any illness if necessary before the animal(s) is adopted. All dogs and puppies from the
shelter will be sent home with a general antibiotic to combat symptoms of frequent shelter
illness.
4. In order to keep your current foster(s) safe and healthy, we will not introduce new
animals until your current animals have completed their adoption preparation period.
5. As soon as you receive your animal, please schedule them for their spay/neuter surgery to
be conducted at the end of their 2 week adoption prep period. Please call 947-7729 or email
foster.clinic@okhumane.org to schedule an appointment. Surgery days are Monday through
Friday at OK Humane Place Spay & Neuter Clinic (6002 S Western Ave).
6. Once an animal is through its adoption preparation period, is healthy, and is
spayed/neutered, it is ready for adoption! Please name your foster animal(s) if they did not
come with a name. Feel free to be creative!
7. Dogs will stay with their foster family until they are adopted. You will schedule days to
bring them to the adoption center with the Pet Adoption Specialists at 286-1229 ext. 4. We
also host adoption events every Saturday at PetSmart and will schedule several dogs and cats
for those as well. (7500 N Western)
8. Cats move through the program a bit differently. Once they are ready for adoption they
will typically come to the Adoption Center to wait for a space on the adoption floor or at one
of our two PetSmart locations (Edmond and I-240).
9. Once your foster(s) is adopted let the Foster Coordinator know when you are ready for
new fosters!
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Facebook Groups:
We have two Facebook groups just for our volunteers and foster
families. These groups are closed, and you must ask to join them.
The first one is for our staff members to post needs related to OK
Humane. We will post transportation requests (animals that need to
be taken from one location to another), volunteer needs, and
animals looking for foster homes.
To join, you can go to this webpage and request to join. A staff
member will quickly approve you so you can see and comment on
the posts.
http://www.facebook.com/groups/okhumanevolunteerconnection
The second Facebook page is for our volunteers, staff, and
fosters to post fun stories and ask questions. You are welcome
to post anything that is deemed appropriate and is related to
animals. Please keep all posts civil or you may be banned from
the group. It can be a lot of fun to see posts from the other
group members! This is a great place to ask for advice related
to your foster or personal animal.
To join, you can go to this webpage and request to join. A staff
member will quickly approve you so you can see, comment on
the posts, and make your own posts.
http://www.facebook.com/groups/okhumanecommunityboard
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Fostering Supplies
Provided
 Dry food (Canned food if available) for all fosters
 Crates can be checked out at the adoption center if available
 Collars
 Leashes
 Medical Care/Necessary Medications/Necessary Special Diets
Recommended
 Food/water bowls
 Baby gate/partition
 Canned food (may be available at the Adoption Center)
 Crate/kennel (may be available at the Adoption Center)
 Litter pan, scooper and litter (for cats). Fine-grained, clumping litter recommended
for cats over 12 weeks, non-clumping litter for kittens younger than 12 weeks
 Age-appropriate toys
Items Especially for Itty Bitty’s
 Baby food – Single meat flavors such as beef, chicken or turkey.
 Crate/kennel – can be used as a suitable living space for a litter of kittens when set up
with food/water and a litter pan.
 Karo Syrup and/or Nutrical (a high calorie booster– may be available at the Adoption
Center)
 Heating Pad or Snuggle Safe Heating Disk
(available at PetSmart)
 Pedialyte and/or Gatorade (may be available at the
Adoption Center)
 Old towels and linens (may be available at the
Adoption Center)
 Only Non-clumping litter should be used with
kittens under 12 weeks of age to avoid accidental
ingestion and blockage of respiratory tract
 Pill Splitter & Pill Applicator
 Humidifier
 Scale that weighs in ounces
 Thermometer & KY-Jelly
 Veterinary Wrap
Items purchased are tax deductible.
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Toys!
Items that are most attractive to animals are often the very things that are most dangerous.
Puppy and kitten proof your home by checking for: string, ribbon, yarn, rubber bands,
plastic milk jug rings, paper clips, pins and needles, or anything else that could be chewed or
ingested.
Soft toys should be machine washable. Check toy labels for child safety; a stuffed toy that is
labeled “safe for children under 3 years old” cannot contain dangerous fillings. Problem
fillings include nutshells and polystyrene beads. However, even safe stuffing is not
digestible. Rigid toys are not as attractive to cats as they are to dogs.
Recommended Interactive Toys
Cats and Kittens:
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Round plastic shower curtain rings. These are fun as a single ring to bat around, hide
or carry. They can be linked together and hung in an enticing spot.
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Plastic rolling balls, with or without bells inside.
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Ping Pong balls or practice golf balls with holes to help cats carry them. Try putting
one in a dry bathtub; the captive ball is much more fun than one that escapes under
the sofa.
 Paper bags- remember to remove any
handles. Paper bags are good for pouncing,
hiding and hunting littermates.
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Sisal wrapped toys
 Toilet paper and paper towel rolls are
ideal; “unwind” a little cardboard on one end to
get them started.
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Balled up paper
For puppies and dogs:
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Kongs
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Sterilized bones
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Tennis Balls
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Empty Paper Towel rolls
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Empty 2 liter bottles of soda
Remember not to leave puppies or dogs alone with their toys! Also remove toys when dogs
are playing together that are unfamiliar with each other to avoid possession aggression.
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Animal Proofing Your Home for Foster Animals:
Kittens and Puppies are curious creatures. Many are capable of jumping onto high surfaces
or squeezing into the smallest of spaces.
Kitchen/Bathrooms/Utility Rooms
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Use childproof latches to keep little paws from prying open cabinets.
Keep medications, cleaners, chemicals, and laundry supplies on high shelves.
Keep trashcans covered or inside a latched cabinet.
Block any small spaces, nooks, or holes inside cabinetry or behind washer/dryer units.
Cover any above ground heat ducts or circulation vents.
Make sure that you cover any open drains in showers or bath tubs.
Make sure cats or kittens haven't jumped into the dryer before you turn it on (this
does happen!).
Keep foods out of reach (even if the food isn't harmful, the wrapper could be).
Keep toilet lids closed to prevent drowning.
Living/Family Room
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Place dangling wires from lamps, VCRs, TVs, stereos, and phones out of reach.
Keep children’s toys put away.
Put away knickknacks until the animal has the coordination and/or understanding
not to knock them over.
Block all those spaces where your vacuum cleaner doesn't fit, but a foster kitten
could.
Move houseplants – some of which can be poisonous - out of reach, including
hanging plants that can be jumped onto from other nearby surfaces.
Put away all sewing and craft supplies, especially thread.
Secure aquariums or cages that house small animals, like hamsters or fish, to keep
them safe.
Make sure all heating and air vents have a cover.
Garage
Most garages usually contain too many dangerous chemicals and unsafe items to be an
acceptable foster care site.
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Move all chemicals to high shelves or behind secure doors.
Clean up all antifreeze from the floor and driveway, as one taste can be lethal to an
animal.
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If you are storing food in a garage, it must be in an airtight bin kept far away from any
hazardous chemicals.
Bedrooms
 Keep laundry and shoes behind closed doors (drawstrings and loose buttons can cause
major problems).
 Keep any medications, lotions or cosmetics off accessible surfaces (like the bedside
table).
 Move electrical and phone wires out of reach of chewing.
Potentially Dangerous Situations
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Open doors and drawers (including closets, cabinets and washer/dryer doors!)
Computer wires (electrocution or strangulation)
Folding chairs
Potted plants (possible poisoning or pulling plant off of shelf onto animal)
Litter Training Kittens and Cats
Location: Most people want to place the litterbox in a secluded place in order to minimize
odor and cat litter tracked around the house. Often, the litter box may end up in the
basement, possibly next to an appliance, on an unfinished, cold cement floor. This type of
location is often undesirable to the cat!
A cat may become startled while using the litterbox if a furnace, washer or dryer suddenly
turns on. The cat may then associate the
litterbox with the frightening noise.
If the litterbox is on a cold or slick surface, place
a carpet square or rug underneath for the cat to
scratch. Also, if you place the litterbox in a
closet, be sure the door is wedged open from
both sides so the cat will not get trapped inside
or outside unable to reach its litterbox.
Type of Litter: Research has shown that most
cats prefer fine-grained litters. Clumping litters
are usually finer grained than typical clay litter.
Only use non-clumping litter with kittens
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younger than 12 weeks. When first exploring the litterbox, kittens tend to taste their litter
and play in it. This causes the dust from clumping litter to solidify in their respiratory or
digestive tracts.
Depth of Litter: It is not true that the more litter put into a litterbox, the less often you will
have to clean it. Regular cleaning is essential, regardless of the depth of the litter. Cats do
not choose areas for elimination where they “sink into” several inches of litter or dirt. Most
cats will not like litter that is more than about 2 inches deep. Some cats prefer even less than
that, especially some longhaired breeds.
Number of Boxes: A good litter box guideline is to have at least as many litterboxes as you
have cats. That way, no one can be prevented from using the box because it is already
occupied.
Litterboxes can be placed in several locations around the house. This practice helps to train
young kittens because they can get to the closest box in time to eliminate. It also keeps one
cat from “guarding” the litterbox and preventing other cats from accessing it.
To Cover or Not to Cover: Many cats will not show any preference for a covered versus a
non-covered litter box. However, if the cat is very large, a covered litter box may not allow
sufficient room for it to turn around, scratch and dig, and position itself in the way it prefers.
Uncovered boxes are easier to use when training kittens because it is easier for them to get
into and out of the litterbox.
A covered box tends to provide more privacy and may be preferred by shy, timid cats. It is a
good idea to offer both types of litter boxes to discover which type the cat prefers.
Cleaning the Box: Litterboxes must be kept clean! Feces should be scooped out of the
litterbox daily. The number of cats and the number of litterboxes will determine how often
the litter needs to be changed. Twice a week is a general guideline, but it may need
changing more or less often, depending on circumstances. If you notice any odor to the box
or if much of the litter is wet or clumped, it is time to change all the litter.
Do not use strong smelling chemicals or cleaning products when washing the litter box. The
smell of vinegar, bleach or pine cleaners may cause the cat to avoid using the litter box.
Washing with soap and water should be sufficient. Letting the container air dry is also a
good idea, especially in the sun, but it will be necessary to have a back-up litter box while
the other one is being cleaned.
A great alternative to a plastic or stainless steel litter box is a shallow, cardboard box (i.e. the
boxes that you can buy bulk soda in). They can be thrown away, they are shallow enough
for young kittens to get in and out of, and you don’t have to deep clean them between foster
situations!
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Fostering Shelter Animals
Shelter animals are frequently exposed to diseases that are contagious to other felines or
canines. These illnesses can affect felines of all ages and can include upper respiratory
infection, mites (skin and ear), intestinal parasites, or feline panleukopenia. Canine illnesses
can include kennel cough, mites, intestinal parasites, distemper, and Canine Parvo virus.
The immune system of the infected animals may be compromised because of any of these
illnesses. While fostering ill animals, a Volunteer will likely be asked to administer daily
medication, provide a special diet, and ensure regular visits to a veterinary clinic.
Facilities Needed: An easy to clean area is needed. The area should be completely isolated
from your own companion animals, such as a spare bathroom, bedroom, den or heated
basement.
Suggested Supplies
Pill applicator, if needed.
A humidifier, if needed.
OK Humane will provide medications and special diets when necessary.
As Needed Duties
Be aware of possible check-up appointments
Medicate as directed by OK Humane staff.
Observe signs of improvement or deterioration.
Inform Foster Coordinator immediately if problems occur.
Cleaning Procedures
The most common disease organisms seen at shelters are: viruses, bacteria, parasites and
fungi. It is important to consider all objects with which a foster animal may come into
contact and disinfect accordingly.
Cleaning Agents: All surfaces may not be easily cleaned, but thorough washing and/or
vacuuming helps in decreasing the numbers of environmental pathogens.
Using bleach as a disinfectant - the recommended dilution is 1 part bleach to 30 parts water
(1/4 cup bleach to 1 gallon water). The recommended contact time is 10 minutes. Color Safe
bleach should not be used.
Do consider washing animal laundry in a separate load from family laundry. Do not use
fabric softeners. Use unscented dryer sheets only to cut down on static cling if desired.
Other veterinary disinfectants – Trifectant, D-128. Available at www.petedge.com
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Websites Some useful websites are www.cloroxhome.com, www.simplegreen.com
Reading Labels It is important to read the labels on non-toxic, environmentally friendly
products like Simple Green®. It is not a disinfectant. The company does make a Simple
Green D®, which is a disinfectant. This also applies to newer products, including Clorox
Wipes®. Bleach is not an ingredient in this product!
Products like Febreeze® are generally safe to use in a home with animals, although, some
animals can have allergic reactions. Use these products with discretion.
Cleaners with Pine Oils, such as Pine-Sol should never be used around cats.
Medical Problems
All animals are evaluated for age, health and behavior before being placed in a foster home.
Diseases: Several diseases are commonly seen in a shelter environment. Most of these
diseases have incubation periods before symptoms appear. Your foster animal may have been
infected with a disease before going out into foster care, but not show symptoms until after
you have brought it home. Unfortunately, there aren't always tests to determine some
diseases before an animal shows symptoms.
If the foster animal is showing signs of disease at the time you come to take it home, the
Intake Coordinator will send medications and instructions with you if necessary. If
symptoms occur once the animal is in your care, please call the In-house clinic (405-2861229 x 7) immediately to schedule a check-up.
Symptoms: Symptoms should lessen within a few days of starting medication. If the
symptoms persist, call the In-house clinic (405-286-1229 x 7).
It is extremely important to administer all medications and finish the entire prescription.
Instructions: You will be given instructions when picking up each foster animal. Please
follow them closely. These instructions are designed to protect the foster animal, your own
animals and those animals belonging to your friends and neighbors. Many diseases are
extremely contagious and can live for long periods outside of the ‘host’ foster animal.
Awareness: Be aware of the animal's general well-being as you feed and play with your
foster animals. If you have any health related concerns, please contact the In-house clinic
(405-286-1229 x 7) as soon as you notice a problem. Please do NOT wait until a crisis occurs.
Appointments are needed in order for the animals to be seen by a Veterinarian.
Emergencies: If you have an emergency during business hours, please call the In-house clinic
(405-286-1229 x 7). After Hours, please contact Foster Emergency Phone at (405-830-3780).
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Symptoms of Health Problems
It is important that foster volunteers be able to interpret changes in an animal’s appearance,
bodily functions and behavior in order to detect signs of illness.
If you have questions about an animal's health, call the In-House Veterinarian and describe
the animal’s condition over the phone (405-286-1229 x 7). Home care instructions can often
be given or an appointment made to have the animal visit our veterinarian.
The following are some symptoms that require immediate attention:
1)
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Labored breathing, excessive panting or incessant coughing
Vomiting of blood or bile
Severe diarrhea, especially when accompanied by vomiting
Pronounced limping or paralysis
Unconsciousness, seizures, uneven pupil dilation or fainting
Marked behavioral changes
Listed below are some symptoms of illness:
Eyes
Yellow or green discharge
Uneven pupil dilation – concussion, seek immediate attention
Swollen conjunctiva, including 3rd eyelid
White film or cloudiness over eye
Yellowing on white part of eye
Red or blinking eyes
Ears
Dark, flaky debris, especially in cats
Dark, waxy discharge with yeasty smell
Yeasty smell with no discharge
Animal exhibits pain when ear is rubbed or cleaned
Frequent scratching at ear
Nose
Yellow or green discharge.
Scabs or skin loss.
Bleeding from nose.
Excessive sneezing.
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Mouth
Loss of appetite – in adult animals for more than a few days, in juvenile animals
for more than one day.
Increased appetite for over a week.
Vomiting, usually more than three times.
Trouble eating or chewing, painful gums or teeth.
Bright red gums.
Pale gums.
Ulcers or lacerations on gums or lips.
Excessive salivation, especially a change in the amount of salivation.
Labored breathing during rest, coughing.
Labored breathing with pale or bluish gums – very serious.
Contact OK Humane immediately.
Panting, with red skin and/or gums – animal is too hot. Cool by taking indoors or to
shady area and giving slightly salted water or electrolyte solution, like Gatorade®.
Skin
Redness
Lacerations
Lumps
Hair loss
Scabs
Frequent scratching
Dry coat
Dehydration - a dangerous condition for an animal to develop, and it will need immediate
attention.
Dehydration is indicated by dry skin, lack of skin elasticity, dry mucus membranes or
darker yellow-colored urine. To detect dehydration, use the following steps:
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Gently grasp the loose skin above the animal’s shoulders or along its rib cage, lift the
skin and let it drop back into place. If the skin drops back slowly or remains
bunched up, the animal may be dehydrated. (Not always accurate in infant
animals.)
Check gums. Dry, sticky and/or pale gums could indicate dehydration.
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Anal/Genital Area
Diarrhea Bloody, liquid diarrhea - seek immediate medical attention.
No bowel movement for more than 48 hours
No urination for more than 24 hours, especially in male cats
Discoloration/changes in feces
Gait
Sudden lameness/limping that doesn't improve with rest within 24 hours.
Animal experiences pain upon walking or handling.
Decreased activity, limpness, and crying for more than 15 minutes can be signs of
hypothermia or hypoglycemia.
Temperature
Rectal temperature below 99.5 F or higher than 102.5 F at rest
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Enlarged Lymph Nodes
Neck
Front legs
Rear leg
Behavior
Lethargic
Poor appetite
Increased appetite with weight loss
Excessive drinking
Increased urination or accidents in the house
Straining to urinate or defecate
Frequent scratching at ears or skin
Crying, whining, growling
Head shaking
Seizure or convulsions, seek immediate medical care
Diarrhea
Diarrhea is a fairly common ailment among juvenile animals. Young animals are more
severely affected by diarrhea than adults. They should be closely observed because their
condition could quickly become life threatening.
Diarrhea left unchecked can kill a young animal very quickly.
Watch your foster juveniles carefully. Check for recurrent bouts of diarrhea, blood or mucus
in the feces, foreign material in the feces and frequency of defecation.
Most Commonly seen Diseases in Foster Animals
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Internal parasites, such as roundworms, tapeworms, giardia, coccidia (diarrhea)
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External parasites, such as fleas/ticks
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Upper Respiratory Infection (sneezing, ocular and nasal discharge)
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Kennel Cough (in dogs only – coughing, gagging)
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Parvo virus (in dogs only – diarrhea, lethargy, dehydration)
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Canine Distemper (in dogs only – lethargy, dehydration, seizures)
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Feline Panleukopenia/Distemper (in cats only – diarrhea, lethargy, dehydration)
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If a Foster Animal Becomes Ill
Be attentive. Familiarize yourself with the animal’s habits so that you will recognize any
unusual changes in its behavior.
The Veterinarian and/or Director of Operations at our In-house clinic will want to know
details, such as the color or consistency of feces, changes in eating habits or energy level.
Be ready to state when a problem began, how often it occurs and whether the condition
tends to happen at specific times, (e.g., mealtime, bedtime, after exercise).
Watch the clock. If mild symptoms do not disappear in 24 hours, call the Foster Care
Manager.
Use caution when tending to a sick or injured animal.
Do not allow children or other animals to interact
with a sick or injured animal.
When you call the In-house clinic (405-286-1503 x
7), it will be helpful if you know the animal's
temperature, if it is vomiting, has diarrhea, is active
or listless, whether or not it is eating and drinking,
and the foster animal’s age.
Administering Medication
It is essential that medications be given for the full amount of time prescribed, even if the
animal begins to look and act better.
Administering Pills to Cats: A cat’s mouth is opened by pulling the lower jaw downward.
This can be done by holding the cat’s scruff in the left hand, while gently pulling the lower
jaw down with the middle finger of the right hand. The pill is held between the thumb and
forefinger of your right hand. The pill is dropped on the back of the tongue. The mouth
should be held shut until the cat has swallowed the pill.
1 cc of water can be given by syringe, immediately following the pill placement.
Administering Pills to Dogs: Most dogs will gladly accept a pill that is hidden in a meatball of
wet food or peanut butter. If the dog is unwilling to eat a hidden pill, gently place pressure
on both sides of the dog’s jaw with your left hand. As the dog’s lower jaw opens downward,
quickly place the meatball in the back of the throat with the right hand. The mouth should
be held shut until the dog has swallowed the pill.
1 cc of water can be given by syringe, immediately following the pill placement.
Animals are given liquid medication if possible.
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Administering Pastes
The easiest way to administer a paste is to place the appropriate amount as a ribbon on your
finger, open the animal’s mouth, and smear the past on the roof of the mouth. If the paste is
pre-measured in a syringe, it may be placed on the cat’s tongue.
An alternate method is to place the paste on the animal’s front leg, where it will be licked
off. This alternate method is not as accurate a dose as giving the paste directly. Use the
alternate method only for medications that do not have to be measured accurately.
Administering Liquids
Tilt the animal’s head back, open the mouth and slowly dribble the liquid from a syringe or
dropper onto the back of the tongue (always administer liquid medication from the side of
the mouth). If the animal coughs or sputters, decrease the amount of head tilt. If the
medication is bitter tasting, the animal may foam at the mouth.
Eye Drops and Ointment
Drops – Tilt the head back slightly, gently holding the eyelid open. Bring the bottle of drops
over the eye and drop in the prescribed amount.
Ointment – Tilt the head back slightly, gently holding the eyelid open. Squeeze a small
amount of ointment inside the lower eyelid. Close the eye to distribute the ointment evenly
over the eye surface.
It may be necessary to get the help of an assistant.
Cats may be wrapped securely in a towel to help administer any medication.
Ear Drops and Ointment
Grasp the tip of the ear with one hand and hold the earflap perpendicular. With the other
hand, drop in the prescribed number of drops or the amount of ointment. Continue to hold
the ear firmly (to prevent head shaking), and massage the base of the ear to work the
medication down inside the ear canal.
Spay or Neuter Surgery
OK Humane Policy: The Central Oklahoma Humane Society requires that all animals be
spayed or neutered prior to adoption.
Eligibility: For these surgical procedures, the animal must be healthy (no upper-respiratory
infection or kennel cough). Animals must be at least 8 weeks and weigh at least two pounds.
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If young males have undescended (cryptorchid) testes, they will be neutered when the testes
descend or when they are 6 months old.
Food and Water: The night before surgery, puppies and kittens should have access to food
and water. They can have a small breakfast with water the day of the surgery. Adult dogs
and cats should not have food after 10:00 p.m. the night before their surgeries.
The address to the Humane Place Spay Clinic is:
6002 S Western
(405-947-7729)
Contact OK Humane Place Spay and Neuter Clinic to set up an
appointment
Foster.clinic@okhumane.org or (405)947-7729
Drop off time at the N.W. Clinic is between 8:00am & 8:30am on the day
of surgery and pick up is between 4:30pm & 5:00pm on the same day.
Cats & kittens must be in a carrier. Dogs and puppies must be on
leash or in a carrier
If you are unable to keep a foster surgical appointment, please notify the Humane Place Spay
Clinic so your slot may be used for another OK Humane animal requiring surgery.
Safety and Incident Reports
Oklahoma State law requires any dog or cat that bites and breaks the
skin to be placed on a 10 day quarantine for rabies observation. It is at
the discretion of the officer and jurisdiction as to whether or not the
quarantine needs to be done at the shelter or can be done in your
home.
Checklist for handling a bite incident
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Clean and flush the wound immediately with soap and water.
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Report the incident to an OK Humane staff member. Please state which animal was
involved and the circumstances of the bite.
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See your doctor. Receive tetanus prophylaxis and antibacterial treatment when required.
It is not advised to have sutures or wound closure unless unavoidable.
During this time, the animal may be quarantined in your home, unless you are not
comfortable with this arrangement. If you prefer, the animal may be switched to another
location for the quarantine time.
When the quarantine period ends, the animal may be re-evaluated by the Adoption Program
Manager.
If a bite is not reported it creates a hazard for others handling the animal and we may release
a rabid animal into the community. This can result in the death of the bitten individual as
well as exposure of other people, pets and children.
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Acknowledgment of Foster Handbook
I, (print name) __________________________________________________, have received a
copy of the OK Humane Foster Handbook, which outlines the policies and procedures of the
Central Oklahoma Humane Society’s Foster Program. I have read and understand the
information in it and agree to abide by the policies during my volunteering. I understand
that it is my responsibility to secure information from the Volunteer and Foster Coordinator
or the Director of Operations if I have any questions or concerns about any of the
information outlined in this handbook. I understand that these policies and procedures are
continually evaluated and may be amended, modified or terminated at any time and at the
sole option of OK Humane.
I recognize that working with animals at OK Humane places me at physical risk, and I
agree to assume that risk. I realize that although the OK Humane has taken all
reasonable measures to protect me, accidents, illness and injuries may still occur.
Therefore, I hereby completely release and entirely discharge OK Humane from any and
all claims and causes of action of negligence or gross negligence that I or another might
have or bring relating to or arising from any injury, illness or damage that I should
sustain while assisting OK Humane or in connection with my volunteer work for OK
Humane.
I understand that the animals in the OK Humane foster program are the property of OK
Humane and agree to relinquish a foster immediately upon the request of the Volunteer
and Foster Coordinator or other OK Humane staff member. Also, I agree to not under
any circumstance transfer the foster animal to any third party without the consent of the
Foster Care Coordinator or other OK Humane staff member.
I certify that I have never been convicted of animal cruelty, neglect or abandonment at
any time in any state.
________________________________________
Signature of Foster Applicant
____________________
Date
________________________________________
OK Humane Witness
____________________
Date
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