Glycolic Acid

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2 Bon Air Rd, Suit 130
Larkspur, CA 94939
Ph: 415-924-2454
Fax: 415-924-2490
Glycolic Acid
What is glycolic acid?
Glycolic acid is a type of alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that occurs widely in nature. It is
present in several edible fruits, cane sugar, vegetables, meats, and beverages.
The most common AHAs in cosmetic products are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Among others
are citric acid, hydroxycaprylic acid, and hydroxycapric acid.
What is glycolic acid used for?
Dermatologists have used glycolic acid formulations for over 25 years for cosmetology
and the treatment of a variety of skin disorders. Up to 10% concentration of glycolic acid has
been included as a component in several over-the-counter personal care products such as
exfoliants (peels), pH adjusters (toners), and skin conditioning agents. Products containing
AHAs are also marketed for smoothing fine lines and surface wrinkles, improving skin texture
and tone, unblocking and cleansing pores, treatment of acne, removing scars, and overall
improving skin condition. 50-70% glycolic acid containing products are usually used in
dermatologists’ offices with physician supervision.
Depending on the concentration, glycolic acid containing products are also used to treat the
following conditions:
 Melasma (hyperpigmentation): overproduction of melanin (color pigment) on the
skin, usually seen on face but it can occur on hands and other parts of the body.
 Psoriasis: excessive skin build up mediated by the body’s own immune system
causing itchy dry scaly patches on the body.
 Keratosis: small rough spots occurring on the skin.
 Actinic keratosis: thick hornlike growth occurring on the skin usually due to
excessive sun exposure or tanning.
 Hyperkeratosis: thickening of the outer layer of the skin leading to tough and dry
patches on the body.
 Seborrheic keratosis: noncancerous (benign) skin growths that some people
develop as they age.
 Keratosis pilaris: small acne like bumps appear on the upper arms, legs, or
buttocks.
How does glycolic acid work?
AHA-containing products cause exfoliation (i.e., peeling) or shedding of the surface skin
(dry dead skin). The extent of exfoliation depends on the type and concentration of the AHA, its
pH, and other ingredients in the product. Glycolic acid in general promotes collagen and elastin
synthesis, which in tern help the skin rejuvenate and stay hydrated.
What are the side effects of glycolic acid?
Reported adverse experiences include burning, dermatitis or rash, swelling, pigmentary
changes, blisters or welts, skin peeling, itching, irritation or tenderness, chemical burns, and
increased sunburn.
FDA warns consumers using topical product containing glycolic acid about increased
skin sensitivity to the sun, which can lead to increase risk of sunburns. It is recommended to
apply sunscreen or wear protective clothing (i.e., sunglasses, hats) to eliminate overexposure of
the skin to sun especially during summer months or sunny days in general.
Official FDA warning is as following:
“Sunburn Alert: This product contains an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that may
increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun and particularly the possibility of sunburn. Use a
sunscreen, wear protective clothing, and limit sun exposure while using this product and
for a week afterwards.”
Short term sun exposure while using this product may increase your chances of sunburns,
and long term sun exposure may lead to premature skin aging and possible skin cancer.
When should you call your doctor?
Discontinue using this product or any product that contains glycolic acid (or any other
type of AHA), and call your doctor right away if the above mentioned side effects are severe or
become bothersome.
Consultation points:
 Do not use this product if you are pregnant
 Always follow physicians instructions and do not overuse this product
 Always wear sun protective clothing when using this product
 Stop using this product when skin irritations occurs such as redness, itchiness, or blisters
 Always talk to your pharmacist to find out more reliable information
 Always tell your doctors about your current prescribed medications and over the counter
medications when starting a new therapy
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