Trekking the sacred mountains of Bhutan
By Voralak Suwanvanichkij On December 8, 2008 · 9 Comments
Photo: Graham King
How to measure your country’s progress? The Bhutanese use GNH, or Gross National
Happiness. This is a sacred travel experience.
Whether you seek wilderness adventure, immersion in a unique culture, or a spiritual journey,
a trek through Bhutan’s mountains puts you in the heart of this little-known Himalayan
Kingdom.
Here are some considerations for first-time trekkers:
The Basics
Trekking in Bhutan involves a multi-day trip, arranged like a camping expedition. This is due to
government guidelines and because many areas are remote, devoid of accommodations. It is not
uncommon to walk for several days before encountering a village.
A typical day consists of 5 to 7 hours of walking among some of the world’s most pristine
natural surroundings, including subtropical jungles, alpine highlands, and snow-capped peaks.
You will be accompanied by a licensed Bhutanese guide, cook, and mules or yaks that carry
tents, sleeping bags, cooking equipment, food and other supplies.
In a nation steeped in Mahayana Buddhist traditions, the mountains are sacrosanct, housing
deities. As such, you cannot scale peaks higher than 6,000 meters. At 7,570 meters, Gangkhar
Puensum, the highest mountain in Bhutan, remains the highest unclimbed peak in the world.
While treks range from easy to strenuous, it helps to be moderately fit. Daily altitude gain is
relatively high, so be aware of how best to acclimate your body.
Photo: jmhullot
When to Go
The best high altitude trekking seasons are in late April, when colorful bursts of wildflowers dot
the landscape, or during the pleasant, clear days of October.
Short treks at lower elevations are possible during most months. You can also time your visit to
coincide with one of Bhutan’s colorful festivals, getting a glimpse inside the dzongs, or fortressmonasteries, that serve as administrative, religious, and social centers.
Climate varies significantly by region. The north, bordering Tibet, is perennially covered with
snow. The central regions enjoy four distinct seasons similar to those of Western Europe, and the
subtropical south is hot and humid. Monsoon rains pelt the country from June to September.
Photo: jmhullot
The Treks
There are more than a dozen treks, ranging in difficulty. Some combine scenery and culture,
passing dense pine and oak forests on the mountainside; whitewashed dzongs overlooking
valleys; and chortens, squat monuments housing sacred Buddhist relics.
Druk Path is a week-long trek that crosses mountains connecting the valleys of Paro and
Thimphu, Bhutan’s capital. The sparsely populated route winds around freshwater lakes, and if
your timing is right, dozens of varieties of scented rhododendron bloom in late spring.
Photo: babasteve
Bumthang Cultural and Gangtey Nature treks are shorter, lasting from two to four days. Gangtey
passes through isolated valleys, including the winter home of rare black-necked cranes.
Of the thousand or so trekkers who visit each year, most head for Jhomolhari, the third highest
peak in Bhutan and “abode of the Goddess Jhomo.” Following the river, the trek offers some of
the best mountain scenery, including highland villages, yak pastures, and a base camp embedded
in natural beauty.
Taking two weeks, the Jhomolhari – Laya – Gasa trek is an extension of the above. It weaves
through the high Himalayas, leaving the Jhomolhari trail and heading east along the Tibetan
border to Laya, and then south to Gasa and its hot springs.
Lunana Snowman is one of the hardest high altitude treks, involving walking and living in
remote areas beneath the peaks of 6 mountains, each over 7,000 meters high. The mystical trail
crosses nine passes, taking you by villages and nomad groups, and through forests of blue pine,
juniper and rhododendron.
Plan Ahead
You cannot visit Bhutan on a whim as the government controls the number of travelers allowed
into the country each year. Arrangements must be made through registered Bhutanese tour
operators beforehand, and you have the choice of customizing your own trip or joining a preplanned tour.
Each visitor is required to pay a fee of US $200 per day. This sounds steep, but it includes taxes,
accommodations, meals, a licensed guide, camping equipment and haulage for treks. This fee
applies across the board, whether or not you go trekking.
The easiest way to get to Bhutan is by air. Druk Air, the national airline, is the only carrier that
serves Paro Airport, offering flights from Bangkok, Kathmandu, Delhi and several other South
Asian cities.
There are plenty of online resources. For starters, check out Matador editor Tim Patterson’s
excellent guide to, and impressions of, Bhutan.
Photo: Graham King
The Tourism Council of Bhutan also provides handy information, including a list of tour
operators (many of whom have their own websites), local news and events, approved treks, and
the latest on travel regulations.
And finally, get a copy of seasoned trekker Bart Jordans’s Bhutan: A Trekker’s Guide , including
insights on numerous trails, a comprehensive trek grading system, and information on trekking
for families with children.
Where am I?
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About The Author
Voralak Suwanvanichkij
Voralak Suwanvanichkij is a Bangkok based writer who says she travels: "To gain new
perspectives on the world. And in the process, to learn something about myself."