UPDATE: Certain types of raw fish have been found to be extremely unsafe for dogs. They contain a
microorganism that affects and kills dogs, but not humans or other animals. Salmon in particular is a
danger but other types of fish carry the bacteria as well. DO NOT feed your dog raw fish!
While dogs can eat some of the same foods that we do, there are many they should not eat. Some
common foods you may have around your house could kill your dog in the right amount.
Some foods dogs should not eat
If your dog has ingested any of these foods, get veterinary help immediately
Grapes and Raisins: Grapes and raisins can cause kidney failure in dogs. As little as a single serving of
raisins can kill a dog
Onions: Onions destroy red blood cells and can cause anemia.
Chocolate: Chocolate can cause seizures, coma and death. Baker’s chocolate is the most dangerous. A
dog can consume milk chocolate and appear to be fine because it is not as concentrated, but it is still
dangerous.
Coffee, Coffee grounds, tea and tea bags: Drinks/foods containing caffeine cause many of the same
symptoms chocolate causes
Macadamia Nuts: Macadamia nuts can cause weakness, muscle tremor and paralysis.
Animal fat and fried foods: Excessive fat can cause pancreatitis.
Bones: Bones can splinter and damage a dog’s internal organs.
Tomatoes: Tomatoes can cause tremors and heart arrhythmias. Tomatoe plants and the most toxic,
but tomatoes themselves are also unsafe.
Avocados: The fruit, pit and plant are all toxic. They can cause difficulty breathing and fluid
accumulation in the chest, abdomen and heart
Nutmeg: Nutmeg can cause tremors, seizures and death
Apples, Cherries, Peaches and similar fruit: The seeds of these fruits contain cyanide, which is
poisonous to dogs as well as humans. Unlike humans, dogs do not know to stop eating at the core/pit
and easily ingest them.
Raw eggs: Raw eggs can cause salmonella poisoning in dogs. Dogs have a shorter digestive tract than
humans and are not as likely to suffer from food poisoning, but it is still possible.
Salt: Excessive salt intake can cause kidney problems.
Food that most dogs can eat:
Some “human” foods are good for dogs. Most of these are healthier than the boxed treats you buy in
the grocery store. . This is just a small list of examples of foods dogs can eat, not a list of every food
they should eat. Dogs won’t necessarily get all the nutrients they need if they eat these foods
exclusively, so check with your veterinarian if you are interested in feeding your dog a home cooked
diet.
Any food that causes stomach upsets or digestive problems in your dogs should be avoided. Like
people, some dogs cannot tolerate certain foods even if they are considered "safe".
Meats:
Meats should be boneless and it’s best if the skin is removed. I don’t consider raw meat a good idea
because of the small risk of food poisoning and parasites.
Skinless, boneless chicken breast
Skinless, boneless turkey breast
Boneless fish
Beef Liver
Chicken Livers
Vegetables:
Dogs have shorter digestive tracts than humans and cannot digest most vegetables whole or in large
chunks. It’s best to put them through a food processor before giving them to your dog
Carrots
Green Beans
Lettuce
Potatoes
Yams
Red and green bell peppers
Grains:
Grains should not be given in large amounts or make up a large part of a dog’s diet, but these foods
are generally safe in small amounts
Rice
Bread
Oats
Dairy products
Use caution with dairy products as they are high in fat and can cause pancreatitis, gas and diarrhea.
Usually, nonfat plain yogurt is safe in small amounts
Household Toxins: Keeping Your Dog Safe
by Nikola Marshall
As dog owners, we must be alert to items that are toxic to our animal friends. Regular household items that
may not harm us may cause our pets illness and even death. The Human Society and the ASPCA both have
comprehensive websites with articles about household toxins. Let's delve into some of them here. We'll look
at both non-food and food items.
Obviously, over-the-counter and prescription medications, including vitamins, should be kept well out of
reach. Even a very small dose can be lethal. Household cleaners should be stored in cabinets with closed
doors. Cleaners containing pine or citrus oils are toxic.Plant food, fertilizers and other garden products are
lethal. Do not leave them lying around!
Although every winter we hear the warnings about antifreeze, I feel it should still be addressed. It contains a
substance called ethylene glycol, which has a sweet taste. It is very attractive to pets and, even in tiny
amounts, is fatal. One teaspoon can kill a several pound dog. Fortunately there are safe alternatives on the
market. Look for products that contain propylene glycol.
Other non-edible items to be on guard for are; bleach, detergents, button battery ingestion, moth balls,
potpourri oils, fabric softener sheets, batteries in general, cigarettes, pennies and hand and foot warmers.
Aluminum foil and cellophane candy wrappers can cause intestinal blockage and vomiting.
Foods and beverages that we may consume everyday could very well harm your dog. Raisins and grapes,
for instance, can cause anything from vomiting to deadly kidney failure. Candy and gum containing large
amounts of the sweetener xylitol can cause a sudden drop in blood sugar resulting in depression, lack of
coordination and seizures. Other foods and beverages to watch for include; coffee grounds, alcoholic drinks,
onions, onion powder, yeast dough, beans, salt, macadamia nuts, apple seeds, apricot, cherry and peach
pits, mushrooms, mustard seeds, rhubarb, and walnuts.
This is by no means a complete list. Check with your vet or Animal Poison Control should you have any
doubts about anything. Remember, your dog's life may be a stake!
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Foods & Household Items Dangerous to Dogs
73
rate or flag this page
By Maddie Ruud
My dog Vivi
Whether you are looking to adopt your first pet, or you are a veteran dog owner, it's important to be
aware of the environment you are providing for your furry friends. You may have heard that some
foods, like chocolate, are poisonous to dogs, but that's only part of the whole story. Many everyday
objects and substances are harmful (and can even prove fatal!) to dogs.
This hub lists in alphabetical order human foods, common plants, and household items toxic or
dangerous to your canine companions. It's a good idea to print it out and give your house and yard a
good going over to make sure these things are all out of the dog's reach, to ensure the safety of your
pet.
We all want to provide a loving home for our pets. Let's make sure it's a safe one too.
Foods
In general, foods that are spoiled or moldy, and those that are especially salty, fatty, or sugary
should not be given to your dogs. In addition, avoid leaving tobacco products, caffeine, or alcohol
where dogs can reach them.
FURminator Large Yellow deShedding Tool with 4-Inch Edge
Price: $20.99
List Price: $59.95
FURminator deShedding Tool with 1-3/4-Inch Edge for Cats
Price: $14.79
List Price: $34.99
Angels' Eyes Tear-Stain Eliminator for Dogs, 120-Gram Bottle
Price: $33.49
List Price: $71.50

Alcohol

Avocados

Candy

Chocolate

Coffee

Onions

Garlic

Grapes

Gum

Macadamia Nuts

Raisins

Salt

Tea

Yeast
Plants
Lilies, ferns, and ivy are among the many plants hazardous to your dog. Specific varieties, as well as
other dangerous plants are listed below.

Heavenly Bamboo

Hemlock

Honeysuckle

Hurricane Plant

Hyacinth

Hydrangea

Iris

Jerusalem Cherry

Jimson Weed

Kalanchoe

Lantana

Lily of the Valley

Lupine

Marble Queen

Morning Glory

Mother-In-Law

Mountain Laurel

Narcissus

Needlepoint Ivy

Nephthysis

Nightshade

Oleander

Panda

Peace Lily

Philodendron

Precatory Bean

Privet

Red Emerald

Rhododendron

Ribbon Plant

Sago Palm

Satin Pathos

Schefflera

Striped Dracaena

Sweetheart Ivy

Tulip

Wisteria

Yew

Yucca

Aloe

Amaryllis

Andromeda Japonica

Asian Lily

Asparagus Fern

Australian Nut

Autumn Crocus

Azalea

Belladonna

Bird of Paradise

Bittersweet

Black Locust

Branching Ivy

Buckeye

Buddhist Pine

Caladium

Calla Lily

Castor Bean

Ceriman

Clematis

Cordatum

Corn Plant

Cycads

Cyclamen

Daffodil

Daylily

Devil's Ivy

Dieffenbachia

Dumbcane

Easter Lily

Elephant Ears

Emerald Fern

English Ivy

Eucalyptus

Florida Beauty

Foxglove

Glacier Ivy

Gladiolas

Gold Dust Dracaena

Golden Pathos
Household Items
All medications, cleaning products, and garden fertilizers and pesticides need to be sealed and say
stored safely out of your dog's environment. Some of the worst offenders are listed below.
Pest Control

Ant poison

Fly bait

Insect repellent

Mothballs

Slug & snail bait

Rat poison
Other

Lead

Lighter fluid

Liquid potpourri
16 Coupons - $1.00 off Pedigree Good Bites Dog Treats
Current Bid: $.99
LARGE DOG PAW & BONE COOKIE CUTTERS PET TREATS PARTY
Current Bid: $6.95
Medications

Acetominophen

Anti-cancer drugs

Antidepressents

Aspirin

Cold & Flu medicines

Diet Pills

Ibuprofen

Vitamins
Cleaning Products

Bleach

Detergents

Disinfectants

Drain cleaners

Fabric softener

Lime & Scale removers

Oven cleaners

Soap

Solvents
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Comments
RSS for comments on this Hub
MarloByDesign says:
11 months ago
Nice hub! I used to give my dog grapes a couple of years ago, until I found out they were on the
poisonous list last year (I never knew) - now I stick to Natural Balance dog food, boiled chicken, and
doggie biscuits.
I hope I did now hurt him at all, I love him so much!!
I believe that baby aspirin (for pain) is okay. That is what my vet told me.
gaussmarkov says:
11 months ago
Great hub! I've been waiting for this one! :D
MM Del Rosario says:
11 months ago
I should send the link of this hub to my sister, she always give her leftover coffee or tea to her dogs.
Eileen Hughes says:
11 months ago
Brilliant itemised hub, Yes my dog used to help himself to the grapes off the vines. So cut them off. I
knew about onions and chocolate. and some plants
Bonnie Ramsey says:
11 months ago
Awsome job, Maddie! There are things on this list I would have never dreamed of! I just don't know
how my dogs have survived all these years! LOL. Thanks for all the great info!
Bonnie
Susan Ng says:
11 months ago
Salt and yeast? Bread contains both, is it toxic to dogs? I feed the dogs leftover bread. :O
Maddie Ruud says:
11 months ago
Raw yeast is more of a problem than cooked, and there isn't a significant amount of salt in bread, but
it still isn't the easiest for them to metabolize. Better to feed dog food to dogs, and save the people
food for people.
In The Doghouse says:
11 months ago
Maddie
Great Hub, with a lot of good info. I second your suggestion to only feed dogs "dog food", it is much
healthier for them in the long run. My dog has never had "people food" hence he doesn't beg or bug
us when we eat.
Whitney05 says:
11 months ago
Great list Maddie! I have the foods that are toxic to dogs in my new puppy hub, but I didn't think
about adding all of this. I'm definitely going to link this hub to that one.
C.S.Alexis says:
11 months ago
Many years ago the mother of my God Daughters, sprayed her basement for spiders. The new
puppy got very sick and soon died. The Vet. reported later that the puppy's stomach was full of
poisoned bugs, crickets and grasshoppers. It was a terrible thing to watch the puppy suffer, and it
died quicker than anything could be done to stop the poison.
trakker14 says:
11 months ago
Thats a great list, my shelties have been drinking about a 1/4 cup of coffee every day for about 12
years. but the one item i see you didnt list is antifreeze. there is a harmless antifreeze that wont
harm pets.
yeastcure says:
11 months ago
Great list! I have printed it out for reference! Thanks
Matthew Cepican says:
11 months ago
Incredible! Great hub!
kalynna says:
11 months ago
Thanks for the list. I knew about chocolate but not coffee and tea. I do give my dog leftover bread
sometimes. And when I eat popcorn, I make sure a few pieces fall for her.
jess bradshaw says:
10 months ago
Just the list we have been looking for! Thank you so much!
jess bradshaw says:
10 months ago
PSYou left out the most important things of all:
Dog toys of many varieties. All rawhide being one of the worst. Especially all rawhide toys NOT
made in USA. They are treated with extremely dangeous chemicals, including formaldehyde and
others. Rope toys which can unravel and tie up the intestines and kill your dog. Squeakers in rubber
and plastic toys. Any kind of string or thin rope also of course. Socks. One sock killed a Golden
Retriever. He stopped eating for three days and by the time his owners took him to the ER and they
opened him up, necropsy/gangrene had set in in his blocked intestines and he could not be saved.
There are so many unsafe objects that are not even chew toys, it's unbelievable. I worked for a vet
and have seen it all!
Rarejewel says:
10 months ago
Very informative. We just got my lil sis a puppy (Chocolate Lab) for Christmas so it's good to know
these things since they are very energetic dogs.
shailini says:
10 months ago
WOww..I didn't know this. Very essential tips for pet owners!
Tresea says:
7 months ago
Thanks Maddie, I appreciate all the helpful information.
Janet says:
5 months ago
My puppy (7 month old Pomapoo) was taken to the vet because she kept hacking like there was
something stuck in her throat. Come to find out, her throat was inflamed and raw. She was put on
antibiotics just in case it turned into an infection. What could have caused this? I have been spraying
down the laundry room with Lysol when I clean up her pee-pee mess. She usually isn't in the laundry
room at the time but sometimes she might come in. Could this have caused her throat irritation?
Julia says:
2 months ago
We gave our 2 month old standered poodle a rubber teether and she tore it in half, so only use vet
approved teethers or teethers that are nylabones. If you give dogs banannas it is fine once in a while
but always remember NO CHOCOLATE!!!
neisha says:
6 weeks ago
my friend gave her dog a piece of a sandwich with cheese on it do you think that could hurt him I
THOUGT IT COULD
Amelia says:
5 weeks ago
my dog has snuck most of the bad foods on this list at one time or another, it is tooo funny watching
my dog eat a grape though, she cant keep it in her mouth, and she will be chasing it across the
floor,, i stoped giving them to her when i found out they were poisonous.
Craziibonez says:
10 days ago
what other kinds of liquid is it safe for dogs to drink besides water?
is milk ok?.. juice left in the lil fruit cups?
etc...
GLORIA SCHARADIN says:
4 days ago
is lysol spray toxic to dogs
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8 Poisonous Household Items That Could
Kill Your Dog
Posted by Gerald Njuguna on October 30th, 2007 at 03:37pm
Dogs being naturally curious and scavengers, tend to eat almost anything. The danger is that there are potentially dangerous substances
lurking in your home that could kill your beloved dog.
I have compiled a list of 8 common household items that you need to keep out of the reach of your dog.
NEWS UPDATE: I’ve come across this incredible resource book titled “Veterinary Secrets Revealed” written by Dr Andrew Jones
who has practiced Veterinary Medicine for over 10 years. In his book, he reveals simple secrets to safeguard your pet’s health, Slash
Vet Bills, and even save your pet’s life!
He teaches over 1,000 safe, natural and effective solutions for healing your pet that are easy to understand. You don’t need a degree in
Veterinary Science to implement them
I highly recommend this definitive manual if you are searching for information on vets, dog
health and illnesses. To get more info, visit his site by clicking here->The Veterinary Secret …ok then.. back to the article..
1) Chocolate:
Chocolate! How can chocolate kill my dog? One of the ingredients of
chocolate is a chemical by the name of obromine which is quite toxic
to dogs.
There are two types of chocolate that are especially dangerous to dogs;
Baking chocolate & dark chocolate.
It normally takes huge amounts of chocolate to kill a dog but in some
cases ingesting smaller amounts can poison and kill the dog.
If your dog has been poisoned by chocolate, it will start to vomit,
diarrhea and urinate more frequently.
If this is not treated immediately, the dog will start having seizures &
unusual heart rhythms.
2) Antifreeze
You may not realize this but antifreeze kills a lot of pets every year. Its sweet smell and lovely taste appeals to many dogs. Ethylene
glycol, which is a key ingredient in antifreeze, is toxic and kills many animals if ingested.
Symptoms of antifreeze poisoning include the dog vomiting, having seizures, stumbling and being lethargy causing it to have kidney
failure. Please ensure that you keep your antifreeze away from your pet and should the dog ingest the substance, take him to the vet as
soon as possible.
3) Bleach
Household bleach is toxic to dogs. All products that contain bleach need to be kept away from the
dog’s reach.
Dogs that have been poisoned by bleach show symptoms of abdominal pain, vomiting and
drooling.
Please don’t induce vomiting if you suspect that your dog has ingested bleach.
Contact your veterinarian immediately.
4) Tylenol
2 regular strength Tylenol tablets are enough to kill a small dog.
The reason is that dogs don’t have the appropriate enzymes in their liver necessary to
break down acetaminophen.
Dogs that have ingested Tylenol will start to drool, become lethargic and have abdominal
pain.
Contact your vet immediately if you suspect that your dog has ingested Tylenol.
5) Fabric Softeners and other detergents:
At some level, all household detergents are harmful to dogs but fabric softeners are far more toxic to
dogs.
Dogs that have been poisoned by softeners and detergents exhibit symptoms of vomiting, have burns
in the mouth, drool, their muscles become weak and can even go to a coma.
Do NOT induce vomiting if your dog has ingested any detergents or softeners. Contact your vet
immediately.
6) Moth Balls:
Moth balls are lethal if ingested by dogs because they contain a substance that causes the central
nervous system of the dog to be excited resulting in seizures.
When the chemicals in the moth balls are metabolized, they cause the liver of the dog to fail! A dog that has been poisoned by moth balls
will start to vomit and also have seizures.
Do not induce vomiting if the dog looks poisoned but seek proper medical advice from a vet.
7) Batteries of Watches:
Watch battery acid causes fatal ulceration in the stomach of the dog within 12 hours
after ingestion.
Also, other alkaline batteries are toxic to dogs. A dog that has swallowed battery acid
will start to drool, lose appetite, vomit and also become lethargic.
Seek immediate help from your vet.
Household Plants:
You might be having a popular household plant in your home and are not
aware that it’s poisonous to your dog.
Good example of plants that are poisonous to your dog include; Poinsettias,
Lilies, Ferns, Devil’s ivy, Aloe and Ivy
If we are cautious, we can prevent our lovable dogs from swallowing
poisonous substances that can be fatal to them.
The internet has lots of information that will help you be wiser regarding
your pet and how to care for your pet in order to prevent such disasters from
happening.
If you suspect that your dog might have eaten something poisonous, the best advice I can give you is you ensure you contact your vet
immediately and if possible take your dog to the nearest emergency pet clinic.
Dont forget: Read more info on “Veterinary Secrets Revealed” book written by Dr Andrew Jones. Discover simple secrets on how to
safeguard your pet’s health, Slash Vet Bills, and even save your pet’s life! Learn over 1,000 safe, natural and effective solutions for
healing your pet that you can easily accomplish in the comfort of your home..no Veterinary Science degree required here!! Visit his site
here-> The Veterinary Secrets
10 Household Items Poisonous to Dogs
ASPCA’s Poison Control Center says many household
items can be poisonous to dogs.
The ASPCA last week revealed that it managed more than 116,000 calls to its Animal Poison Control
Center hotline in 2006, many of which pertained to pet poisonings from common household items.
“While the reason is not clear, calls in virtually each of these categories seems to be on the rise,” said
Steven Hansen, veterinary toxicologist and senior vice president with the ASPCA, who manages the
ASPCA’s Midwest Office, which houses the APCC.
During National Poison Prevention Week, from March 18 to 24, the ASPCA is advising pet owners to stay
alert to the possibility of poisoning from these common household items:
1. Human medications: The ASPCA says this category has been number one on its list of common items
hazardous to dogs for years, including in 2006. Last year, more than 78,000 calls involving common
human drugs such as painkillers, cold medications, antidepressants and dietary supplements were
managed by the poison control center — a 69 percent increase over 2005.
2. Insecticides: The APCC handled more than 27,000 pet poisonings pertaining to products used to kill
fleas, ticks and other insects in 2006, up more than 28 percent from 2005. “A key factor in the safe use of
products that eliminate fleas, ticks and other pesky bugs, is reading and following label instructions
exactly,” Hansen said.
3. Veterinary medications: The APCC says it managed more than 12,000 cases in 2006 involving animal-
related preparations such as non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, heartworm preventatives, dewormers, antibiotics, vaccines and nutritional supplements — a 93 percent hike in volume.
4. Plants: The number of pet poisonings involving plants also shot up by more than 111 percent in 2006 to
over 9,300. While poisonous plants should certainly be kept away from dogs, it is also a good idea to
discourage dogs from nibbling on any variety of plant, as even non-toxic plants can lead to minor stomach
upsets.
5. Rodenticides: Last year, approximately 8,800 calls about rat and mouse poisons were received by the
APCC, representing an increase of more than 27 percent over 2005.
6. Household cleaners: In 2006, the APCC received approximately 7,200 calls of pet poisonings pertaining
to cleaning agents such as bleaches, detergents and disinfectants.
7. Chocolate: Always a common food-related call, more than 4,800 chocolate calls were received by the
APCC last year, an 85 percent increase from 2005. Chocolate is poisonous and potentially fatal to dogs.
“Typically, the darker the chocolate, the greater the potential for poisoning,” Hansen said.
8. Chemical hazards: A newcomer to the top 10 pet poisons, this includes such harmful items as volatile
petroleum-based products, alcohols, acids and gases. In 2006, the APCC received more than 4,100 calls
related to chemical hazards — a jump in call volume of more than 300 percent.
9. Physical hazards: While not necessarily all toxic, items in this group include objects that could pose a
choking hazard, risk for intestinal obstruction, or other physical injury. In 2006, the number of pet cases
related to a physical hazard grew 460 percent to over 3,800.
10. Home improvement products: In 2006, about 2,100 cases involving paint, solvents, expanding glues
and other products commonly used in construction were managed by the APCC — up 17 percent from
2005.
Posted: March 21, 2007, 5 a.m. EST
PAW Home
How To Adopt
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Monday Feb 9, 2009
Dog Tip: Household Hazards, Poisons and Safety
Contents:
* Poison Alert Updates
* Selected Safety Alerts
* More Essential Ways to Safeguard Animals from Household Dangers
* Potential Hazards Checklist
* Lead and Lead Poisoning
* Drinking Water
* Protecting Pets When You Have Visitors or Special Events
* If Your Pet Has Ingested Poison or Is Seriously Injured
* Ten Ways to Keep Pets Safe article
* Related Resources
Poison Alert Updates:
* Lawn chemicals-cancer link: evidence shows that lawn chemicals are linked to development of cancer such as
lymphosarcoma in dogs. To receive a report on lawn, garden and household chemicals hazardous to dogs, other pets and
children, contact the Rachel Carson Council Inc., P.O. Box 10779, Silver Spring MD 20914.
* Sugar-free candy and gum may be toxic to animal companions: according to the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center
(APCC), xylitol, a sweetener found in certain sugar-free chewing gum, candies and other products, can potentially cause
serious, even life-threatening problems for pets. Xylitol is a white crystalline substance used as a sugar substitute.
Based on data collected from the 40-plus related cases the center has managed since last July, canines who ingest
significant amounts of gum or candy solely or largely containing xylitol may develop a sudden drop in blood sugar,
resulting in depression, loss of coordination and seizures. "These signs can develop quite rapidly, at times less than 30
minutes after ingestion," says Dr. Eric Dunayer, consulting veterinarian for the APCC. "Therefore, it is important that pet
owners seek veterinary treatment immediately." Be especially diligent about keeping candy, gum or other foods containing
xylitol out of animals' reach.
* Medications: always put them out of reach of pets and children. For example, according to the ASPCA Animal Poison
Control Center, pseudoephedrine - an ingredient commonly found in certain cold, allergy and sinus medications - can be
extremely dangerous to companion animals. It does not take as much of the drug to cause a serious problem. As little as
one tablet containing 30 milligrams of pseudoephedrine could produce clinical signs in a 20-pound dog, including
nervousness, hyperactivity and elevated heart rate; a dose of only three 30-milligram tablets could be lethal to a dog that
size. Avoid poisoning two ways:
1. Never give your animal any medication without first talking to your pet's veterinarian.
2. Store all medications in a secure cabinet well out of the reach of animals. And remember: a pet can easily chew open
even childproof containers.
3. Keep handbags, totes and other bags out of reach, particularly if you carry any medications in them.
* Antifreeze and bittering agents: in 2004, the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center issued a notice that it is currently
unaware of any well-controlled published scientific research demonstrating that dogs can be consistently protected from
antifreeze poisoning through the addition of denatonium benzoate as a bittering agent added to antifreeze. While such
products may be less toxic, there is no scientific proof that they are in fact safe. Be sure to see the antifreeze section later in
this tipsheet.
* Continuous-cleaning toilet products: toxic reactions have been reported. See the toilet-related tip in the household
dangers section below.
* Salmon warning: avoid feeding pets raw, unfrozen salmon, wild-caught or farmed. Salmon poisoning may also be caused
by feeding raw hatchery trout, although it's rare. This disease is caused by a rickettsia and can be fatal if untreated. For
more information: http://www.vetmed.wsu.edu/ClientED/salmon.asp
* Chocolate, cocoa and bread dough: these are some of the common food products highly toxic to pets.
For more on food safety, see the Dog Tipsheet on the subject, which is listed near the end of this guide.
Selected Safety Alerts:
* Dogproofing is not a one-time activity: from time to time, survey your home and yard for safety. Check doors, gates and
fencing on a regular basis. Also remember to give your pets their own toys and safe chews, so they will be less inclined to
chew on unsafe items.
* Leash strangulation: do not leash a dog by or on stairs, or else she might get strangled.
* Repair doors: a door that can slam shut on pups, dogs and children can lead to serious injury.
* Dryer and other fire hazards: don't leave the clothes dryer running, candles burning, or any other potential hazard
unchecked when there is no responsible adult home to monitor. Your pets and any children won't be able to sense or escape
trouble.
* Fireplace safety: install and use a sturdy glass door screen. Establish a barrier between the dog and your fireplace or
wood stove.
* High-jumping hazards: repeated over time, jumping from high vans or heights can hurt your dog's back.
More Essential Ways to Safeguard Animals from Household Dangers:
* It is important to read all product labels, including those for new and improved formulas of products you've used before.
For example, some powerful cleaning products have added lye, which should not be used in any pet areas.
* Remember that animals and humans can have reactions to most any commercial product, and that a crawling child or a
pet could pick up residue off a floor, then ingest it when licking hands or paws.
* Many people are reducing their use of commercial cleaning products. Instead, they use commonly available, simple
ingredients often recommended in Hints from Heloise, including water, baking soda, white vinegar, lemon juice, hydrogen
peroxide, club soda and cornstarch. Properly used and combined, these products can clean just about anything. In addition,
the natural cleaning alternatives as well as pet mess-specific products such as Simple Solution typically work quite
effectively for a wide range of cleaning needs. Some folks also keep ammonia and bleach in their arsenal. Never mix
ammonia and bleach, since that combination is dangerously toxic.
* Many people, including those who do not have pets or children, are curtailing use of pesticides and other garden
chemicals in favor of the many nontoxic alternatives now available. The internet is a great resource for finding nontoxic
and less toxic alternatives and better garden/lawn care techniques.
* Do not let pets into areas where cleaners, pesticides, rodent traps and other potentially toxic items are used or stored.
Warning: some dogs can open cabinet doors, so childproof latches may be needed...or store the hazardous items in higher
cabinets.
* Close the doors of dishwashers, clothes washers, dryers and other appliances and cabinets.
* When using a self-cleaning oven for the first couple of times, protect pets from fumes by keeping them far away from the
kitchen.
* Make sure your dog can't get into waste baskets and trash cans.
* Drinking water from toilets can upset the gastrointestinal tract. Tablets, continuous-cleaning products and other cleaning
agents that are present in the water can lead to vomiting, nausea and much worse. Prevention, as always, is best. Keep toilet
lids down if you and your family members do not always close the bathroom and powder room doors.
And since pets drink from toilets only when they are thirsty, keep their water bowls filled with clean water and make sure
they have easy access to the bowl. Some people keep water bowls in several places in their homes.
If your dog has ingested toilet water but seems okay, you can dilute any effects by feeding him a mixture of milk and
water. Go to the vet if the animal seems ill.
* Another reason to keep bathroom doors closed: puppies, dogs and cats have gotten hurt slipping down tub edges, and
have suffered seriously burns from accidentally turning on faucets. Drowning is also possible.
* Do not give pets access to garages or sheds, or to basements in which toxins and other dangers may be present.
* Keep your dogs away from lawns and other areas recently treated with fertilizer, chemicals and pesticides.
* Store automotive products such as gasoline, oil and antifreeze in areas that are inaccessible to pets. As little as one
teaspoon of antifreeze can be deadly to a cat; less than one tablespoon can be lethal to a 20-pound dog.
Please take these steps to protect animals from antifreeze poisoning:
1. Regardless of the type of antifreeze used, keep it in a childproof container and (since animals can chew through many
containers) keep the containers out of reach of animals.
2. Repair any leaking vehicle hoses.
3. Make sure pets are indoors when you change or add antifreeze and other automotive products.
4. Wipe up spills without delay to protect pets.
5. Do not drain radiators into ditches or storm drains.
6. To store used antifreeze before disposal, put it into a clearly labeled, sealed container. Recycle or dispose of it at a
garage with appropriate facilities for disposing of antifreeze. Check with your local government for your local household
hazardous waste collection days and sites.
7. If your pet returns from outside covered with an unknown substance, wash it off immediately.
8. Auto window washing fluids and products to prevent freezing in plumbing can also contain ethylene glycol. Check the
ingredients, and if it contains EG, treat it the same as antifreeze.
9. Switch to less-toxic propylene glycol-formulated antifreeze, but still take the steps above.
10. Persuade pet owners never to leave pets in garages and workshops.
* Before buying a flea product, consult your veterinarian, especially when treating a sick, injured or pregnant pet.
* Before using any product on your pet or in your home, always read the label and follow the directions.
* If a product is designed only for dogs, it should not be used on cats, and vice versa. If you're unsure of how to use a
product properly, contact the manufacturer and your veterinarian for instructions.
* Cords and plugs can look like chew toys to pets. Tape down or cover cords to help avoid shocks, burns or other serious
injuries. Unplug lights when you are not home.
* Power strips and outlets: if you have a puppy or overly curious or clumsy pet, cover all open outlet holes so pets cannot
stick claws or tongues in them.
* You can keep dogs from gnawing electrical wires if the wires are enclosed in metal braided sleeving, which is available
from various companies.
* To repel dogs from household items from wood molding to cushions to electrical cords, make them undesirable. To do
this, you can coat them with hair spray or Bitter Apple. First, coat a cotton swab and have the dog approach it. The swab
will taste bad when the dog licks it. Then liberally spray the hair spray on items, including places the dog chewed before.
The spray's smell and taste will repel the dog.
* Floor vents. Pets can get their tags or paws caught in floor vents. Here is a solution using the nylon netting found in pot
scrubber balls. Wrap two or three layers of netting over the top of the vent, around the sides and ends, and fasten the vent
down tight. Even if your dog catches a nail in it, that's better than his face being pinned down against a hot vent. The
netting also works over fan covers where fingers or tails can poke through.
* Use fireplace screens to avoid burns.
* Wheelchairs. If a household member or guest has a wheelchair, be watchful. Dogs and other pets have gotten caught and
hurt in the wheel spokes whether or not the chair is in use. When not in use, store wheelchairs in a room or closet that the
dog cannot access.
* If you put your dog in a wire crate, minimize the changes of his dog tags and collar getting caught in the wire bars. Dogs
have choked this way. To reduce the risk, make sure you have a properly fitted floor of some sort that extends to all edges
of the wire crate bottom, such as a crate pan and dog bedding. Also make sure the collar is fitted well and that the tags don't
hang down too far. You can also remove the collar before crating the dog, but (1) don't leave the collar on top of the crate
enabling the dog to reach and chew it, and (2) do be sure to put the collar back on immediately upon releasing the dog from
the crate. You want to make sure your pet wears current I.D. at all times in case he gets loose outside the home.
* For front and back doors, check latches and doorknobs from time to time and keep in good repair. Check gates and fences
outside while you're at it.
* If your dog is excitable or has a high prey drive, he can break through a plate glass window or tear through a screen door
to chase wild animals, birds, another dog, the mail carrier, etc. So it's best to close the solid entrance doors and sliding glass
doors...and don't leave windows open when you're not home. In addition, if you have low-lying windows, you could block
the dog's access to those windows when you're not present to supervise.
* To keep pets from falling through steps that are open in the back, you can install shower curtain rods to block the opening
by twisting the rods until they fit tight.
* To keep pets from falling from heights after squeezing through indoor or outdoor railing, line the railings with mesh.
* Block access to window wells near sub-ground level basements and sunken cellar entrances so that dogs don't fall in and
get stuck or injured.
* Block access to indoor/outdoor heating and air conditioning components and power supply lines to prevent injury and
electrocution. Dogs have been electrocuted when scratching, chewing or even touching such power lines.
* Big risks come with using doggie doors. It's dangerous to allow pets to go outside when you're not there to supervise.
You might return home to find an injured or missing pet, or a liability claim from a neighbor. Plus wild animals have been
known to enter homes through pet doors. If you do have a doggie door, please block access whenever you are not home to
supervise.
* Invisible and electric fences also are risky, since power interruptions render them useless. Other drawbacks: unwanted
animals and people can enter the "fenced" area...and highly motivated dogs won't be deterred from chasing a cat, mail
carrier, etc.
* If you have a pool, block the pet's access. Completely cover the pool with a sturdy cover when not in use. Furthermore,
install graded steps out of the pool, since a dog can't climb a ladder. Train your dog how to get out of the pool in case an
accident happens.
* Keep ornaments, decorations and candles far out of reach of pets. Ingestion of any ornament, which might look like a toy
to pets, can result in life-threatening emergencies. Even ornaments made from dried food can lead to ailments. And shards
from broken glass ornaments can injure paws.
* Avoid toxic decorations. Bubbling lights contain fluid that can be inhaled or ingested, snow sprays and snow flock can
cause reactions when inhaled, styrofoam poses a choking hazard, tinsel can cause choking and intestinal obstruction, and
water in snow scenes may contain toxic organisms such as Salmonella. Choose safer decorations for homes with pets and
children.
* Dispose of candy wrappers, aluminum foil pieces, wrapping and ribbons before pets can choke on them.
* If your pet ingests glass, broken plastic, staples or other small, sharp objects, call your veterinarian.
In the meantime, you can give your dog supplemental fiber in the form of whole wheat or other high-fiber bread, canned
pumpkin or Metamucil, any of which can help bulk up the stools the help the foreign material pass through the dog s
digestive system. Dosages depend on the size of the dog. For Metamusil, try a teaspoon for a small dog, a tablespoon for a
big dog. For pumpkin, feed one-quarter to two-thirds of a cup. Some folks recommend feeding the dog cotton balls to help
pass the foreign objects, but others in the veterinary field caution against this since cotton balls can compound the problem.
* Dogs have gotten injured from power and manual tools. So don't allow pets in areas in which work is being done, and put
all tools away when not in use. The same goes for garden tools (trip hazards, prongs can puncture skin or eyes, can topple
on to the animal), which have caused injuries to people as well as pets.
* Nicotine is bad for animals too. Tobacco products can even be fatal to canines, felines and birds if ingested. Signs of
nicotine poisoning often develop within 15 to 45 minutes, according to the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center. Signs
can include excitation, salivation, panting, vomiting and diarrhea. Advanced signs include muscle weakness, twitching,
depression, collapse, coma, increased heart rate and cardiac arrest; death can occur secondary to respiratory paralysis. So
keep cigarettes, cigars nicotine patches and nicotine gum out of your pet's reach. Butts contain plenty of nicotine, so dump
ashtrays frequently.
* Learn more about potentially hazardous everyday products and safer alternatives by doing easy internet searches.
* Keep a pet first aid/emergency kit accessible in your home and in your car.
Potential Hazards Checklist:
Keep the following items out of pets' reach to avoid the risk of choking, poisoning or injury. Advice in this tipsheet also
can help parents of young children avoid accidents and injuries.
* Washcloths and dishrags. Dogs have swallowed them with disastrous consequences.
* Dryer and fabric softener sheets. They are choking and potential poisoning hazards.
* Dental floss. There have been reports of ingested floss getting tangled in and slicing dogs' intestines.
* Sponges. Since sponges can harbor germs and chemicals, replace frequently and keep far out of pets' reach. Many dogs
find sponges fun to chew.
* Plastic bags
* Medications
* Mothballs
* Gel packs in shoes
* Drying crystals
* Tobacco products, nicotine patches and gums
* Toilet cleaning liquids, powders and tablets
* Dishwashing and other detergents
* Cleaners, particularly those containing lye. Products containing lye should not be used on surfaces touched by animals.
* Self-cleaning oven emissions
* Pieces of foil and wrappers
* Waste baskets and trash cans: make sure your dog can't get into them.
* Electrical cords
* Batteries
* Coins
* Jewelry and hair clips
* Bones and stones
* Toiletries
* Pantyhose
* Shoelaces
* Pens and pencils
* Scissors, cutters, rubber bands
* Small balls and toys
* Knickknacks
* Some snow globes contain antifreeze
* Decorations and ornaments
* Potpourri and potpourri oils
* Needles, pins and thread
* Craft and art supplies such as beads, glue, hot glue guns
* Modeling clay
* Gift wrap, foil, tinsel, bows and ribbons
* Some common houseplants
* Water under holiday trees and plants
* Fires in fireplaces and wood stoves. Screen them off.
* Portable heaters. A pet might curl up dangerously close to heating elements.
* Floor vents
* Wheelchairs
* Steps indoors and outdoors with open risers
* Railings in lofts and on elevated platforms, decks and balconies with openings large enough for a pet to squeeze through
* Window wells near sub-ground level basements and sunken cellar entrances
* Furnaces and indoor/outdoor heating and air conditioning units and power supply lines
* Antifreeze (appealing to pets; deadly)
* Snow melting products
* Swimming pool products
* Power and manual tools
* Pesticides and insecticides
* Fertilizer
* Bait and traps for rats, mice, snails, slugs, ants, roaches and other animals.
* Cocoa shell mulch (appealing to pets; contains theobromine)
* Compost piles
* Mole holes in yards
* Standing water
* Mushrooms and toadstools
* Foxtails
* Azaleas, oleander, castor beans, sago palms and yew are among plants that can be fatal if ingested. Holly, mistletoe,
poinsettias, lilies and pine needles are also dangerous. See the web links at the end for lists of potentially toxic indoor and
outdoor plants.
* Animals with toxic bites, including spiders, ticks, snakes, toads, scorpions
Lead and Lead Poisoning:
Like young children, pets are highly vulnerable to the toxic chips and dust from lead paint found in many older homes.
Other possible sources of lead in the house include drapery weights, batteries, door grease, cheap jewelry, linoleum, and
some old and imported children's toys.
The warning signals of lead poisoning include: lethargy and fatigue, seizures, pressing his head against a wall or floor,
vomiting, loss of appetite, vomiting, diarrhea, excessive drooling, uncoordination, major constipation, loss of vision and
frantic behavior. These can also be signs of other types of poisoning. Immediately contact your vet upon noticing such
signs. If you suspect lead poisoning, have your vet conduct a blood test. X-rays can show whether the animal swallowed an
object.
Drinking Water:
Recent reports about water in Washington, D.C. indicate that drinking water rarely leads to lead poisoning. However,
young animals tend to absorb such toxic substances more quickly in their developing bodies. If there are reports of lead or
other toxic substances in your household water, the safest route is to give pets bottled or filtered water.
Another good practice is to never use water from the hot water tap for drinking. Also, run the cold water a few seconds
before filling the water bowl. Unfortunately, this does waste water, which is a limited resource. Again, bottled or filtered
water may be the best choice all-around.
Protecting Pets When You Have Visitors, New Additions or Special Events in Your Home:
* Holiday guests, parties and other events can be very stressful and even frightening to pets. It can also trigger illness and
intestinal upset. Make sure pets have a safe place to retreat in your house.
* Make sure visitors know not to let pets escape out the door. Monitor all doorways closely, and make sure pets are
wearing current I.D. in case they escape out a door when visitors come and go.
* When having visitors or when there is any change or disruption in everyday household routine (wedding planning, a new
baby, holiday preparation, a new person or pet moving into the household), reduce pet stress levels by keeping feeding and
exercise on a regular schedule.
* When pets are stressed by household activity, changes in the home or during travel, they may need more water. Dogs
typically pant more when they feel stressed. So always keep fresh water available for them to drink.
* Never leave dogs and children alone together. Always have an experienced adult supervise, no matter how well behaved
the dog is. Anything can happen, especially with kids.
* Take precautions when there's a frail or ill person in your house. Even a sweet, friendly dog can injure a vulnerable
person by jumping up on the person, possibly scratching, hurting or knocking over the person. Weak, visually disabled and
elderly folks have tripped over pets and suffered injuries as a result.
* It's best not to have unfamiliar pets visit during the holidays or special events because of the added stress for people and
pets...and reduced ability of preoccupied people to supervise pets. However, if your visitors are bringing pets...or you are
bringing your dog home for the holidays...introduce resident and guest pets on neutral ground. Have treats available to
reward positive behaviors and interactions; use verbal praise as well. Be prepared to remove your animal if there is any
chance of a fight. Don't leave newly introduced animals together indoors or in a yard unless supervised by at least one very
experienced and adult dog owner. Find more tips on pet introductions at http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/dog_tips.php
* Do not leave dogs outside unattended. If in an unfenced area, always use a leash. For the safety of pets and people in
vehicles, restrain the dog with a pet seat belt, pet barrier, or in a crate. If you have to stop suddenly, a loose pet could fly
into the windshield or into the driver or passengers, causing injury. And to keep cats safe, keep them indoors.
* Rescue Remedy, a Bach flower essence available in most health food stores, is a natural stress reliever that many folks
keep on hand at home and in travel kits. It can often help both people and animals recover from injury, fright, illness, travel
fatigue, chocolate ingestion and irritation. Put a few drops in the dogs water bowl or portable water container. For stressed
or injured animals, rub a drop on their ear or put a drop on the towel in their crate or carrier. Flower essences are free of
harmful effects and can be used along with conventional medicines. Another safe, nontoxic Rescue Remedy-like product is
Animal Emergency Trauma Solution, available from www.greenhopeessences.com, where you can also get Flee Free to
combat fleas nontoxically. Other flower essence sources include anaflora.com and perelandra-ltd.com.
If You Suspect Your Pet Has Ingested Poison or Is Seriously Injured:
Take action without delay - but do not panic.
Toxic substances can case salivation, tearing, skin irritation, vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, and neurological signs
such as tremors, seizures, disorientation and ataxia (stumbling). Take action immediately if you observe any of these signs.
* Call your veterinarian, or a 24-hour emergency hotline such as
* ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (APCC) 1-888-426-4435 or 1-888-4-ANI-HELP
* National Animal Poison Control Center (NAPPC) 1-900-680-0000 or 1-800-548-2423
Stay calm. Be ready to provide your name, address and phone number; information concerning the poison your pet was
exposed to, such as the amount ingested, if known, and the time since exposure; your pet's species, breed, age, sex and
weight; and the symptoms your pet is experiencing.
If your pet is having seizures, unconscious or losing consciousness, or having difficulty breathing, or if you suspect
antifreeze or chemical ingestion, get to your veterinarian or closest emergency animal hospital immediately.
Induce vomiting ONLY if the dog ingested non-caustic or non-corrosive material, such as human medications, antifreeze
or rat poison. A three percent hydrogen peroxide solution can be used to induce. Do not use salt. Hydrogen peroxide fizzles
in the stomach and triggers an upset; it is suggested to use one teaspoon per 5 pounds to a maximum of 3 to 4 tablespoons.
See the important First Aid Tipsheet at http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_FirstAid.php
Article:
10 Ways to Keep Your Pet Safe
1. Keep pets on leash when outside. A moment of risk can lead to a lifetime of regret. Even if you think your dog will listen
to you, dogs are driven by instinct. Even the most obedient dogs will be tempted to chase a squirrel, even across a busy
street. Off-leash dogs also get in fights with another animal and have injured passersby. It's easy, smart and (in most
places) the law to use a leash when you're not in a fully fenced, safe area.
2. Don't leave dogs outside unattended. In the time it takes to drive to the store, someone could taunt, hurt or steal your
dog. A passing child could let your dog out, or stick a hand through the fence and provoke a bite incident. And many dogs
can dig or climb out of a yard faster than you may think. Even those who don't try to escape can aggravate neighbors with
their barking. Barking is one of the most frequent complaints called into animal control departments. Be a good neighbor
and dog guardian: keep your dog indoors when you're not home.
3. Keep cats indoors. Outdoors, cats can pick up illnesses such as FIV from other cats outdoors. They can get hurt by
another animals, be abused by troubled people, or get hit by cars. No wonder indoor cats live an average three times longer
than cats allowed outdoors. Cats can safely enjoy freedom indoors with interesting toys, scratching posts and climbing
areas. You can even create a screened porch for your felines. If you have questions about housetraining and litter box
usage, see the free information for pet owners in the Resources section at www.paw-rescue.org
4. Transport pets with care. Secure cats in a cat carrier. Secure dogs with a dog safety belt that attaches to your car's seat
belts, or use a folding crate. This makes it safer for pets and the driver; you don't want your pet to turn into a flying
projectile if the driver has to hit the brakes. And don't leave a pet in a car alone. Even with the windows cracked, and even
on a mild day, a car can heat up like an oven. Sadly, countless pets get sick and suffocate in cars due to owner negligence.
Another tip: don't let pets stick their heads out car windows. This can lead to eye and ear injuries as well as escapes.
5. Take your pet to the veterinarian for check-ups. Skipping one year for an animal is equivalent to skipping seven years
for a human. Prevention is the key to better health. Furthermore, dogs need to be on heartworm preventative pills so that
they can avoid this deadly, costly-to-treat mosquito-transmitted disease.
6. Spay and neuter pets. Not only is this one way you can help reverse the tragedies of pet overpopulation and the
euthanization of thousands of adoptable animals each year in our local shelters, but it's also a safety measure for your own
pet. Medical studies confirm that altered dogs and cats are much less prone to several debilitating and deadly diseases,
from prostate cancer to mammary tumors. In addition, neutered dogs are much less likely to roam, get into fights, and bite
people compared to intact dogs.
7. Treat and raise your pet properly. Socialize him or her to other people and (especially for dogs) to other animals and
places, so that the pet will learn how to respond properly and without fear.
8. Provide your dog or cat with a variety of safe toys - and keep your home and yard hazard-free. Remove objects and
plants that can be harmful to pets. Put medications and foods out of reach. Learn what's toxic to animals. Outdoors, don't
let them walk on chemically treated lawns, or else they can incur paw burns as well as be poisoned when licking their paws
or grass. Put electrical cords out of reach. Keep pets out of garages, workshops and other dangerous places. And remember
that pet-killing antifreeze has a taste that animals find appealing.
9. Make sure your pet gets plenty of physical and mental stimulation each day. An underexercised or bored animal is more
likely to get into trouble. Make sure dogs get walks and other vigorous exercise each day. Cats need outlets for their energy
too, such as scratching posts.
10. Pet-proof an area for young or new pets. Until the pet is housetrained, for times when you're not home to watch the
new pet, use a crate or puppy-pen if you have trouble pet-proofing a room in your home.
Related Resources:
First Aid Kit and Guidance
Keep a pet First Aid Kit in your home and car. Take one on trips with your pet. This webpage lists items to include and
how to use them:
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_FirstAid.php
CPR and Mouth-to-Snout Resuscitation
Print these lifesaving brochures to have on hand!
http://members.aol.com/henryhbk/acpr.html
http://www.rescuecritters.com/cpr.html
AAHA Animal Hospital Locator
http://www.healthypet.com/hospital_search.aspx
Removing Items from a Dog's Mouth
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_RemoveItems.html
Poison Proof Your Home
http://www.aspca.org/site/PageServer?pagename=apcc_poisonsafe
http://www.ansci.cornell.edu/plants/dogs/ten_tips.html
Food Warnings and Kitchen Safety
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_FoodAndKitchenSafety.php
Yard and Outdoor Safety
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_SummerHealth.php
Toxic Plants
http://www.aspca.org/site/FrameSet?style=User&url=http://www.aspca.org/toxicplants/M01947.htm
http://www.ansci.cornell.edu/plants/index.html
http://www.uexplore.com/health/poisonplants.htm
Alternatives to Toxic Cleaning, Household and Yard products
http://www.care2.com/channels/solutions/outdoors/188
http://www.beyondpesticides.org
http://www.petfriendlyfertilizer.com
ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center
http://www.apcc.aspca.org
Note: This information is not meant to be a substitute for veterinary care.
-----For more of Robin's Dog Tips, see the index at www.paw-rescue.org
Partnership for Animal Welfare
P.O. Box 1074, Greenbelt, MD 20768
FOR NONPROFIT USE ONLY. These articles may NOT be reproduced or circulated without author
permission.
Last Updated: April 05, 2005 (LET)
PawSupport
Human Drugs are for Humans
I have recently been asked by several clients and a few emailing readers about giving their pets over-thecounter human medications for a variety of different conditions. One client even wanted to know if she could
treat her dog’s separation anxiety with her own prescription anti-anxiety medication. I had never even heard
of the drug she was using. Well, I would like to preface this article by urging you to PLEASE NOT GIVE
YOUR PET ANY HUMAN MEDICATIONS WITHOUT CONSULTING YOUR VETERINARIAN FIRST. The
physiology of a dog or cat is very different than that of a human, and what is safe for us may very well be
deadly for them.
Case in point: acetaminophen (Tylenol®). This is a drug that is extensively used in humans and is very safe.
When given to a dog, it can cause serious liver damage. When given to a cat, it changes their hemoglobin,
the oxygen-carrying component of the blood, to met-hemoglobin, which cannot carry oxygen. As a result,
they literally suffocate and die very quickly unless an antidote is administered. I have had to treat many
cats whose owners thought that they had a fever, and that a little Tylenol would help. To say the least, they
were rudely awakened.
Now, there are many drugs out there that are used in both veterinary and human medicine, so not
everything labeled for humans is bad for pets. However the dosage can vary tremendously. Ketoprofen
(Orudis®) is a safe and effective anti-inflammatory in dogs, but the dog dose is 1/50th the human dose.
Have you seen how tiny those tablets are? Try breaking one into 50 equal pieces. On the other hand, the
dose for diphenhydramine (Benadryl®) in dogs and cats is 1-2 mg/lb. That means that a 50-pound dog
would take 50-100 mg. Now I’m not a small man, and 50 mg of Benadryl knocks me on my butt! And one of
my clients wondered why a 25 mg Benadryl didn’t help his Great Dane.
Here is a list of a few of the over-the-counter medications that you can give your pet in an
emergency. Please remember to contact your veterinarian before medicating your pet, and do not give
these medications long-term unless your veterinarian recommends it. Also reMEMBER that just because
some is good, more is not necessarily better, and that two similar medications used to treat the same
problem in humans can have very different effects in an animal.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Diphenhydramine (Benadryl®) – Dogs and cats can be given 1-2 mg/lb every eight hours. This
can be used to treat allergic reactions, and it also has some anti-anxiety and anti-vertigo effects. As
a general rule, it is pretty safe stuff. The primary side effect is drowsiness, so please do not allow
your pet to drink alcohol or operate heavy machinery while taking it.
Buffered Aspirin (Bufferin®, Ascriptin ®) – Dogs can take 5-12.5 mg/lb every 12 hours for
pain, inflammation and fever. I usually recommend one regular-strength tablet (325 mg) for a 5060 lb. dog. It can be given to cats, but at a much lower and less frequent dosage interval, so it is
best just to steer clear of aspirin in a cat unless prescribed by your vet. Side effects include stomach
upset (note that ‘Buffered’ is underlined) and decreased blood clotting.
Kaolin/Pectin (Kaopectate®) – This product can be used to treat diarrhea. It used to be very
safe in both dogs and cats, but the brand-name stuff has recently been reformulated to contain
salicylates, which are potentially dangerous to cats. The dose for both is 0.5-1 mg/lb every 4-6
hours, but make sure that you use the original formula for cats. The main side effect is constipation.
Bismuth Subsalicylate (Pepto-Bismol®) - This product can be used to treat nausea and
diarrhea, but it shouldn’t be used in cats, because it contains salicylates. It is the anti-diarrheal of
choice in ferrets. The dosage is 1 ml/8-10 lbs every 6-8 hours for dogs, and 0.5-1 ml/lb every 8
hours for ferrets. Side effects include discoloration of stools.
Chlorpheniramine (Chlor-Trimeton®, Aller-Chlor®) – This is a good antihistamine to assist
with managing sneezing and sinus allergies in dogs and cats. It comes in 4 mg tablets, and is dosed
at ½-1 tablet per cat every 12 hours, and 1-2 tablets per dog (up to a maximum dose of 0.25
mg/lb) every 8-12 hours. It can also cause drowsiness.
Dextromethorphan/Guaifenesin (Robitussin DM ®) – This product can be used to treat
coughing in dogs, cats and ferrets, at a dosage of 0.5 ml/lb every 8 hours. Make sure that it is the
‘DM’ product only, and remember that coughing can be a symptom of some very serious diseases.
It can also cause some mild sedation.
7. WHAT IS LYME DISEASE IN DOGS?
Learn About this tick-borne disease
by T. J. Dunn, Jr. DVM
8. What is
Lyme Disease in
dogs? Transmitted
through the bite of a
tick, Borrelia
burgdorferi is the
scientific name of the
bacteria that causes
Lyme Disease.
These microscopic
bacteria are a type
called spirochete...
they have a coiled or cork-screw appearance
under the microscope. The disease is actually named after the town in Connecticut where an
early outbreak was first described... Lyme, Connecticut. (Remember, ticks don't cause the
disease, they merely harbor and transmit the bacteria that cause the disease.) And being fussy
little bacteria, not just any ol' genus of tick will do as a carrier. At least three known species of
ticks can transmit Lyme Disease. However, the great majority of Lyme Disease transmissions
are due to the bite of a very tiny tick commonly called the Deer Tick, or Black-legged Tick. See
the image on the right. Reference for the identification of this tick is at
(http://creatures.ifas.ufl.edu/urban/medical/deer_tick.htm). Its scientific name is Ixodes
(pronounced eye-zod-ease) scapularis. Lyme Disease in dogs has been reported in every state
but certain geographical areas are much more likely to harbor bacteria-carrying ticks than others.
To see close-up images of a different specie of tick (that does not usually transmit Lyme Disease)
feeding on a dog, view here.
Click on the link below to see a video on YouTube of a dog with early
developing Lyme Disease. This dog displayed swelling, tenderness and joint
pain in only one rear leg. If left untreated far greater issues would surely
develop.
A Dog With Lyme Disease
Many dogs, such as the Brittany Spaniel in the video above, will seemingly
develop Lyme Disease signs within a matter of hours. The dog in the video was
normal one day, a little quiet and less energetic the next, and by the third day
was so full of joint pain that the owner had to carry the dog in to the animal
hospital. Interestingly, although not apparent in this case, in over 75 percent of
affected dogs the worst limp will be in one front leg; close observation, though,
reveals multiple joint tenderness.
9.
The tick's body size varies depending on the stage of its two-year life cycle. I show my clients a
life-sized photo of the tick whenever I diagnose a case of Lyme Disease because often the dog
owners are skeptical about the presence of ticks... "It can't be Lyme Disease, Dr. Dunn. This dog
has not had a single tick all year. I know because I've checked her every time she's come
indoors." Smaller than the head of a pin, these ticks are hard to see! They don't glow in the
dark. They don't make the dog itch. And they are very quiet about what they do. Yes, cats do
contract Lyme Disease but very uncommonly. The Ixodes tick is often called the deer tick
because the adult stage of the tick prefers to feed on deer. However, it will feed on other
creatures such as skunks, birds, canines and people. How do these ticks come to carry the Lyme
Disease-producing bacteria in their tiny bodies? (Take a look at the UPDATE at the end of this
article, too). Here's what happens:
10. Life Cycle:
This photo (click to enlarge) shows
the AMERICAN DOG TICK
(Dermacenter variablis) male and
female on the left edge of a
postage stamp. Four Black-legged
ticks (Ixodes scapularis) are
displayed on the right edge of the
stamp; they carry the bacteria that
causes Lyme Disease. There is a
female (largest tick) and male and
two nymphal stages of the Blacklegged tick.
Tiny rodents, such as voles, and especially the
white-footed mouse, harbor in their bodies
thousands of the Borrelia bacteria without
getting sick. In the early spring while the
white-footed mouse goes about its business,
some lucky Ixodes tick larvae (from newly
hatched eggs laid late the previous fall) grab
onto the mouse and begin to feed on its
blood. During this feast, the tick larvae
acquire many bacteria from the mouse's
fluids. The bacteria think this is just great
because they can survive and multiply in the
tick's gut just as well as in the mouse's. And,
what's even better from the bacteria's point of
view, their huge numbers won't kill the tiny
ticks either. The bacteria have now gone from
the host, a white-footed mouse, to the tick
carrier called a vector, and are thriving - a
bacterial reproductive bonanza!
So where do you and your dog fit in this chain of bacteria,
mouse, tick and deer? Although the tick, during various
stages of its life cycle, prefers certain creatures upon
which to feed, it is quite willing to belly up to a table
where people or dogs are the main course. Regardless
of the stage - larvae, nymph or adult Ixodes tick - if these
critters carry the bacteria in their bodies, people and dogs
can become infected if bitten. Sometimes, but not
always, clinical sickness (observable disease) results.
What percentage of Ixodes ticks carry the bacteria? That
varies according to regions. Research has shown that in
endemic areas of the mid-Atlantic and Northeast,
nymphal-infected ticks ranged from 25 to 50 percent,
and, in north central regions, 10 to 16 percent. It is the
tiny nymphal stage that is the most responsible for
transmitting the disease.
When winter comes, the tick larvae lie
dormant, dreaming of warm-blooded creatures
upon which to dine come next spring. Tick
larvae like the little white-footed mouse but will
settle for you or your dog. The bacteria are
doing fine too; they're just going along for the
warm ride inside the little mouse.
Once the warmer spring temperatures arrive,
the six-legged tick larvae matures into the
eight-legged nymphal stage. Later in the
summer, the nymphs reaches the adult stage.
The young adult ticks, still harboring all those
bacteria without ill effects, just happen to find
themselves riding the legs of a white-tailed
deer. Banquet time! After the ticks suck the
deer's nutrient-rich blood, they can mate and
produce thousands of eggs. The following
spring the eggs hatch into a new batch of
larvae.
There is no evidence that people can contract Lyme
Disease directly from wild or domestic animals. In other
words, you can't catch Lyme Disease from your dog or
from a deer. But if infected urine or blood were to come
in contact with an open wound, who knows? And as time
and evolution go on, variations of disease producing
organisms can be a threat.
11. Signs of Lyme Disease in Dogs
Of the hundreds of cases of canine Lyme Disease that I have
seen, over 90 percent of canine patients were admitted with signs of
limping (usually one foreleg), lymph node swelling in the affected
limb, and a temperature of 103 degrees
(101 to 102.5 degrees is normal). The
limping usually progresses over three to
four days from mild and barely noticeable
to complete disuse of the painful leg.
Once the dog starts to be affected by the
bacteria, Lyme Disease can progress
from a mild discomfort to the stage where
a dog will be in such joint and muscle
pain it will refuse to move; it is not
uncommon for an owner to have to carry a sick dog into the animal
hospital. Over the span of two or three days a dog can progress from normal to completely
unable to walk due to generalized joint pain. In addition to joint damage, the bacteria can affect
the dog's heart muscle and nerve tissue. If the disease is diagnosed in time, treatment can cure
the dog before permanent joint or nerve damage occurs. Certain antibiotics, such as the
Tetracyclines, are very helpful in eliminating the disease.
Generally, the diagnosis of Lyme Disease is based upon clinical signs and history. For
example, if a dog ran or played normally a few days ago, has had no signs of trauma or previous
arthritic discomfort, and now displays tenderness upon palpation of the affected limb and has a
mild fever and swollen lymph nodes, I'm going to seriously consider Lyme Disease as a possible
diagnosis.
On the other hand, just as in human medicine, Lyme Disease is called "The Great Imitator"
because it has often been mistakenly diagnosed when another disorder is present, such as an
autoimmune disease, lymph tissue cancer, Blastomycosis, or septicemia. Just as vexing is the
fact that at times other similar-appearing diseases are diagnosed when the culprit is actually
Lyme Disease. There are published reports of Lyme Disease being misdiagnosed and over
diagnosed in human medicine.
12. Keeping other disorders in mind, if I suspect Lyme Disease, I start treatment immediately,
generally prescribing an antibiotic such as tetracycline and possibly some aspirin if the dog is in a
lot of pain. Many veterinarians do not wait for blood tests to confirm
the tentative diagnosis because in dogs the information obtained may
be confusing and require too much time to hear back from the lab. I
have seen patients that from clinical experience I know have Lyme
Disease, yet their blood test curiously indicates no exposure to the
disease. And there are numerous cases of normal-appearing,
healthy dogs with positive blood tests for Lyme Disease.
Fortunately, over ninety percent of dogs treated within the first week
of obvious signs of Lyme Disease will respond rapidly to treatment
with a tetracycline antibiotic. This medicine is administered for at least
three weeks. In my experience, five percent of dogs will have some
type of relapse of signs such as cardiac or neurological difficulties even after treatment . Some of
these patients will experience chronic, lifelong joint pain from the damage caused by the bacteria
and its direct and indirect stress to joint tissues. The earlier the antibiotic is started in the course
of the disease, the better the patient's chances of a complete recovery.
Can a dog contract Lyme Disease a second time? Yes. But, quite honestly, we don't know for
sure if the reoccurrence is a second, distinct infection or a flare-up of the original episode
(because the Borrelia organism replicates quite slowly). And, since dogs can harbor the bacteria
in their tissues a long time before the disease is evident, Lyme Disease cases are showing up all
year long. In the northern states, however, the summer months are the busiest for Lyme Disease
case presentations.
Lyme Disease in Humans
In humans Lyme Disease is defined as
a "multi-system tick-borne disorder caused
by the spirochete bacteria Borrelia
burgdorferi." Since 1982, when the
causative organism was positively
identified, numbers of cases in humans
have made Lyme Disease the number one
tick-borne disease in the U. S. Widely
present in Europe and Asia, with
occasional reports from Africa and
Australia, Lyme Disease is somewhat
localized in the U. S. with 90 percent of
human cases reported from the Northeast,
North central and Pacific Coast states.
But the geographical distribution is an
ever-changing dynamic.
Nearly 10,000 human
cases of Lyme Disease
were reported to the Centers
for Disease Control in 1992,
compared to only a few
hundred in 1982. And in
1998 almost 17,000 cases were reported.
Actually, since 1982 over 120,000 cases
have been reported in humans. Eighty
percent of these human cases resulted
from the bites of the nymph-stage ticks
from May through August. So it is the
intermediate, poppy-seed sized form of the
tick most likely to transmit the disease to
humans. In the United States, the human
disease is primarily localized to states in
the northeastern, mid-Atlantic, and upper
north-central regions, and to several areas
in northwestern California.
In previous years physicians have had a
difficult time positively identifying Lyme
Disease in humans. "The Great Imitator"
likes to be confused with other disorders,
and in the past, blood tests for Lyme
Disease often gave obscure
answers. Luckily, that
changed in January of 1994,
when the Mayo Clinic in
Rochester, Minnesota,
announced the availability of
Prevention of Lyme Disease in Dogs
There are three Lyme vaccines approved for use in
dogs.
Keep
in
mind,
thoug
h, that
no
vaccin
e for
huma
ns or
canin
es will
be
100%
effective and protective against the disease. As with any
vaccine there are a number of variables that can impact
each individual's response to a vaccine. Think of
vaccination for Lyme Disease as one tool you can use to
decrease your dog's chances of contracting the disease.
For helpful information on the advisability of vaccinating
your dog, contact a vaccine manufacturer or discuss this
disease with your veterinarian.
The first and most obvious technique to assist in
prevention is to keep the tick population to a minimum.
There are safe and effective insecticides that can be used in
the dog's usual environment (e. g., a 50-foot radius around
the dog house). In addition, there are new chemical agents
that you apply once a month to small areas of the dog's
skin; thereafter, the agent spreads over the dog's body via
the oil on its skin and kills ticks before they get a chance to
inject the bacteria into the dog via the tick's saliva. One of
the most commonly used anti-tick medications is called
Frontline Plus and is available in a liquid spot on application
or as a spray. When it is applied to the dog or cat it spreads
through the skin's oil layer. K9Advantix is another
prescription anti-tick medication that repels mosquitoes and
kills fleas. Sprays, shampoos, collars, powders and dips
are often used too (in these products the chemical
ingredient permethrin is more effective than pyrethrin).
Sprays, collars and dips repel and kill ticks to some degree,
with some collars being the least effective, although many
people feel that the tick collars containing the product
Amitraz works quite well.
Please note: Most of these agents will kill the tick after it
the Polymerase Chain Reaction (PCR)
test. With this new method, utilizing spinal
or joint fluid, physicians can now say with
greater certainty whether or not a patient
has Lyme Disease. This is a great help to
physicians since Lyme Disease in humans
has become quite "popular" lately. It is not
uncommon for someone to hobble into the
physician's office and even before being
examined announce, "I've got Lyme
Disease." The PCR test will help to
establish the truth of such
pronouncements.
Physicians describe different stages of
the disease in humans with variable signs
being displayed, including fatigue, fever,
headache, muscle/joint pain and enlarged
lymph nodes. Swollen knees are a
common symptom. As many as 50
percent of patients in the U. S. show a
curious skin rash called a "Bullseye" rash
or erythema migrans, which emanates
from the tick bite area. (Erythema migrans
is not common in dogs and I have seen
only two cases displaying the red rash.)
In humans Lyme Disease is usually
treated with antibiotic of the tetracycline
type. If cardiac or neurologic signs are
present, other medications may be
employed, including amoxicillin,
ceftriaxone (administered intravenously),
and doxicycline.
Vaccinations for Lyme Disease in humans
have been available but are not in
widespread use at this time (2004) and
may even be difficult to acquire.
Generally, only those individuals at high
risk of contracting the disease (game
wardens, forestry workers, etc.) will seek
vaccination for Lyme disease.
(Tick and human rash photos are courtesy
of LymeNet.org)
13.
climbs aboard the dog. The longer the tick is attached and
biting, the greater the risk of bacterial transmission... IF the
tick carries the Borrelia bacteria in the first place.
Remember, no repellent will keep every single tick off a
dog.
Hunting dog owners in northern Wisconsin have found
that spraying their dogs with a topical spray just prior to an
outing in the woods decreases the numbers of ticks picked
up by their dogs. Caution! Do not "double up" on
insecticides or repellants. If your veterinarian has
prescribed a topical once-a-month flea and tick product,
always consult your veterinarian before applying any
additional insecticide/repellent product! By the way, insect
repellents designed to be applied to clothing should not be
used in dogs. If you own a kennel, check with your
veterinarian about tick control procedures tailored for your
kennel setup. Check with the Environmental Protection
Agency (www.epa.gov) for more information about
pesticides.
Examine your dog after outdoor
excursions and carefully pick off the
ticks you find. But remember how tiny
the Ixodes larvae and nymphs are;
they'll be a challenge to remove without
crushing them. With tiny tweezers,
gently grasp the tick as close to the
dog's skin (or your own!) as possible and gently pull away
from the skin. Ticks do not burrow under or into the skin but
rather attach to the skin surface with two claw-like mouth
parts. Try not to crush the tick. After removal, cleanse the
area with antiseptic.
Humans should wear clothing that covers as much skin
as possible to prevent the ticks from contacting the skin.
And the use of light-colored clothing will make observation
of the dark-colored tick easier. Other hints: Avoid fields
and grassy areas; apply repellents according to directions;
and examine yourself closely for ticks after a day in the
field. We live in a diverse, intricate and ever-changing
natural world. It is full of challenges, always prompting us to
better understand diseases and vectors, predator and prey,
life cycles and evolution. The bacteria that causes Lyme
Disease has found a niche in this natural world and will
share the planet with us for a long time. The challenge is to
learn all we can about it!
14.
Update!
Veterinary science is advancing in its ability to detect immune
system indicators of exposure to Lyme Disease in dogs. Blood
tests can now differentiate between immunity derived from
natural exposure and immunity derived from a previous
vaccination. Doxycycline, tetracycline and amoxicillin continue
to be effective choices as an antibiotic but treatment must
continue for a few weeks after all signs of the disease are
absent from the dog. Vaccines to prevent the disease are
becoming more effective and longer lasting. Any disease has
the potential to mutate or adapt to new conditions so keeping
ticks off of the dog, vaccinations (consult with your
veterinarian... take a look at the "vaccine issue"), and
awareness of the signs of Lyme Disease in you dog will all be
helpful in preventing this infection from disabling your canine
companion.
15. Researchers at the University of North Carolina and the
Centers for Disease Control and Prevention have found that
during feeding, the tick vector for Lyme Disease actually
transmits a highly variable population of Borrelia burgdorferi (the causative agent) into the host. In
contrast, when the tick isn't feeding, the population is fairly homogenous. What this means is that
the bacteria essentially adapts during the transmission process to maximize the chance of
infecting the host. Intriguingly, the fact that the tick spits so many different "flavors" of B.
burgdorferi into the host seems to explain an observation made several years ago: Lyme bacteria
delivered by ticks evade the host's immune response more successfully than do cultured bacteria
injected into animals. The team suggests that future efforts to develop better vaccines could
either focus on antigens produced within the tick before the bacteria population diversifies, or on
surface proteins common to all of the otherwise variable bacteria. (AnimalNet - Scientific
American Daily)
Information
Profile
16.
Deet
Publication Date: 10/97
TRADE OR OTHER NAMES
17. Deet is found in a variety of commercial insecticides. Trade names for products containing Deet
include Autan, Delphene, Detamide, Deltamid, Flypel, m- Delphene, Meta-Delphene, Naugatuck
Det, and Off (1).
18.
REGULATORY STATUS
19. There are 53 registrants of Deet-containing insect repellents (3).
20.
INTRODUCTION
21. Deet is the common name for N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide, a multipurpose insect repellent
registered for direct application to human skin, clothing, household pets, tents and bedrolls and
screens. Deet is a unique pesticide, because it is applied directly to the human body for
purposes of repelling insects. It was developed and patented by the U. S. Army in 1946 for use
by military personnel in insect-infested areas. Because Deet was recognized as one of the few
products effective against mosquitoes and biting flies, it was registered for use by the general
public in the U. S. in 1957 (8).
22. Technical Deet is 95% m-isomer. The o- and p-isomers are highly repellent but less effective than the m-isomer. The
compound is also known as detamide, diethylbenzemide, diethyl toluamide, m-delphene, metadelphene, and by the acronyms
DET, DETA, and M-DET (1).
23. Products containing N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide and isomers (Deet) are beneficial as insect repellents, but have also been
associated with dermal and neurological reactions in humans (3).
Control Fleas and Ticks on Your Dog!
There are so many flea and tick medications on the market today that it just boggles the mind. Which
ones really work and which ones may even be harmful to your pet? And the prices on some of these
medications are through the roof! So what's a caring and concerned pet owner to do? I have used a
simple and relatively less expensive way to keep my dog's flea and tick free. This easy regime will
probably work for you too.
We all know that ticks and fleas are unhealthy and that it's imperative to keep these pests off of our
dogs. If a household has more than one pet, the problem compounds. I have five adult Australian
Shepherds and it's a challenge to keep these pests off of my dogs! But it can be done successfully.
Fleas and ticks are known as external parasites. They can transmit dangerous diseases and also
cause blood loss. It is important to know that early treatments for the prevention of flea and tick
infestations are critical in keeping the pest population from developing into a major problem. Severe
flea and tick infestations, especially in the home, are difficult to treat effectively.
Whenever you use a flea or tick medication it's imperative that you read the instructions carefully.
Some products (especially the newer ones to the market) can be harmful to pets if they're used
improperly or in the wrong combination. It's also very important that if you see your dog having any
kind of adverse reaction to the medication, to discontinue it and contact your veterinarian.
The best way to treat your four-legged friend for these pests is by treating both the dog and his
environment and also your house (if he's allowed to come into the house). This way, the fleas, eggs
and ticks won't have a safe haven to live and breed. You should treat your dog, his environment and
your house at the same time. For treatment I use a combination of flea and tick drops, Sevin Dust
(5%), flea and tick spray, foggers and a dog shampoo.
To start your flea and tick treatment, first bathe your dog with a dog shampoo. There are many
different kinds to choose from on the market, including moisturizing shampoos and flea and tick
shampoos. After he is clean and dry, you can apply his flea and tick drops. The most common drops
are Frontline, Advantage, and Hartz (Hartz is the least expensive). Be sure to buy the medication
appropriate for your dog's weight. Read the instructions carefully! Some drops instruct you to just
squeeze the medicine between the shoulder blades, while others tell you to start at the shoulder
blades and continue to the base of the tail. In any case, make sure that you apply the medication on
the dog's skin, and not just on his fur.
Next, wash all of your dog's beddings and vacuum your house. (Be sure to dispose of the vacuum
bag). Use a hand held flea and tick house spray to spray in the corners, closets, on baseboards, and
throw rugs. Foggers won't penetrate these places. Depending on the size of your house and the
number of rooms, buy enough foggers to treat the entire home. You should place one fogger in each
room and close the door. Be sure to follow the directions!
Your dogs outside environment, including runs and the yard where he occupies should be sprayed
with a yard and kennel flea and tick spray. Make sure that the "rest areas" are kept clean. I like to
use the 7Dust about once a week as it is effective and not very expensive. You can make an easy
homemade "shaker" jar to dispense the dust onto both the dog and all of his indoor and outdoor
beddings. Simply find a clean glass jar with a lid. Take a nail and hammer holes into the lid. Fill the
glass jar with the Sevin Dust and screw on the lid. You can shake the dust on your dog and his
bedding about once a week or when needed.
I hope these tips were helpful for you in solving the summer flea and tick invasion. Remember,
prevention is a lot easier than trying to combat an ongoing infestation. Your dog will thank you in
return by staying happy, healthy and bug-free!
To learn more about our beloved pet dogs, please visit my blog at
www.especiallycanine.blogspot.com
10 Steps Dog Health Checklist
Use this quick dog health checklist to monitor your pet. How is your furry friend doing these
days? You need to asses roughly your dog’s health status. No need for a complete MRI scan
and complete genomic check-up. Just the olfactory and visual basics... Is your pooch
looking happy, active and alert? For this check up no completed veterinary study is
required. Use this dog health checklist today and start observing your dog objectively. Look
at him or her. Look at the eyes, the nose, the coat… you can do it!
Just follow this checklist. Note a simple ‘OK’ or ‘not OK’ for each category and write down
any specific signs you notice.
Checklist for A Quick At Home Health Assessment of Your Dog
Use a journal or open a new text file on your computer. Write down today’s date and take
notes as you progress through this 10 step dog health checklist.
1. MEDICINES
List any and all conditions for which your dog receives veterinary care or
medications.
2. BREATH & TEETH
What’s your doggie’s breath like? Do you regard it bad or fresh? Most doggie owners
never examine this, but a bad breath is often a clear sign of infected gums and
rotting tooth sockets. Now gently open his mouth and look at his teeth. Are they
sparkly white, ready for a toothpaste commercial, or do you see a lot of tartar buildup and loose teeth?
3. EYES
Look at his eyes? Does your doggy have bright, clean eyes? Do you see redness,
discharge or are his eyes looking quite dull lately?
4. EARS
Does your dog have recurrent ear-infections? Does he have clean odourless ears or
are they rather smelly? Do you see parasites (such as ticks and mites) or does your
dog shake his head often acting like there are, perhaps also holding his head at an
angle? When your dog has smelly ears or you notice the presence of pus, he could
suffer from an ear-infection. Perhaps his skin is irritated (rather red instead of pale
pink)? But if there’s just an accumulation of earwax you could suffice with a careful
ear cleaning (check with your vet for the right product and instructions for usage).
5. COAT & SKIN
Is it greasy, flaky or thinning? Or is it just bright, shiny and glossy? Is the coat free
of parasites (flees, tics, mite, lice) and hot spots (inflammatory skin infections)? Is
your dog scratching and itching? Licking his paws a lot? Rubbing his ears against
surfaces?
6. PARASITES
Does your dog have repeated infestations of worms or fleas?
7. DEFECATION HABITS
Does your dog have excessive gas (farthing)? Suffer from recurrent diarrhoea,
constipation or incontinence? Or does your pooch just have a problem-free
elimination about twice a day, normal quantities and with a normal structure?
8. ENERGY
Is your dog low or high in energy? Is he a lazy couch-potato or suddenly
hyper(re)active?
9. EATING BEHAVIOR
Does your dog have a normal appetite or is he seemingly disinterested in his food
bowl? Has this always been the case or can you remember when this changed?
10. GENERAL BEHAVIOR
Has your dog’s behavior changed for the worst? Did you notice a sudden onset of
antisocial or aggressive behaviour? Or is he just a good boy with a fine attitude? Is
he wagging his tail as usual when you make your presence or does he seem tired
and grumpy?
Completed the Dog Health Checklist?
Now have a look at your completed dog health checklist. Do you see a lot of problems?
When you have a good score on assets (good breath, bright eyes, shiny coat etc.) and no or
only small issues (the occasional fart) then the menu your dog is having these days doesn’t
seem to be the problem. Keep your notes for reference though! Write down on the same
page the food your dog is currently eating. You may need this information later.
Perform the health check ups regularly, it’s a good habit. Your dog will get used to having
his ears and teeth inspected, which will come in handy at dog shows or at the
veterinarian’s. It’s also good for bonding as it can be quite intimate to have someone look
into your ears and mouth. When your dog is resisting a lot, you may need to establish your
alpha role more strongly. And remember…. You can’t force being an alpha, you have to act
like one to be recognized by your dog as one. However, training is beyond the scope of this
website. So let's get back to the 10 step dog health checklist you just finished.
Did you discover some problems your dog may be having, these please go and visit your
veterinarian and get professional advice. You may also want to visit your vet for a routine
yearly health check which could include examination of blood samples for instance. This can
of course be in combination with your visit for the yearly vaccinations.
Is your dog ok but could be better, then read on as we're going to get the best nutrition for
your tail-wagger.