Birding Eastern Panama & The Darien
Few places in the world offer a variety of natural habitats in such a small surface like Panama. Within its mere
29,159 square miles, Panama has habitats that range from dry "deserts", where cacti and other succulents are
common, to lush tropical rainforests and mountain cloud forests, where moss-covered epiphyte-laden trees
abound. Additionally, its location at the Crossroads of the Americas allows Panama bird species from North,
Central, and South America. The Darien is Panama’s bordering region with South America and it shares an
abundant and diverse wildlife reminiscent to that of the Amazon Basin. All in all, in its tiny surface area, smaller
than the state of South Carolina, Panama contains more than 977 different species of birds, making it a
birdwatcher’s dream come true!
Itinerary:
Duration: 10 days
Limit: 6
Date: 13-22 February
2013
Start: Panama City
Please note that the detailed itinerary below cannot be guaranteed as it is only a rough guide and can be changed
(usually slightly) due to factors such as availability of accommodation, updated information on the state of
End: Panama City
accommodation, roads, or birding sites, the discretion of the guides and other factors.
Itinerary (10 days/9 nights)
Day 1: Arrival in Panama to Gamboa
After your arrival at the Tocumen International Airport in Panama City, you should keep an eye out for
interesting birds like Shiny Cowbird, Cattle Tyrant, Saffron Finch, Pearl Kite, and more. Later you will be
driven to the historic town of Gamboa in the vicinity of Gatun Lake of the Panama Canal.
Overnight: Soberania Lodge
Price: $2645.00 per
person for six people
Price_Includes:
All Meals
Accommodation
Entrance fees
Guiding fees & local
guide
All transport while on
tour
Price_Excludes:
International flights
Flight between Costa
Rica and Panama
Personal insurance
Alcoholic beverages
Gratuities
Laundry
Personal expenses such as
gifts
Located in the buffer zone of the Soberania National Park, Soberania Lodge is a modest Bed & Breakfast offering
outstanding opportunities for wildlife observation in the adjacent rainforests. The rooms we will be taking have
been upgraded with air conditioning and private bathrooms with hot showers. On the grounds of the Soberania
Lodge you can find a great diversity of animals, ranging from dozens of species of butterflies and moths to
iguanas and other lizards, as well as scores of mammals like sloths, tamarin monkeys, night monkeys, kinkajous,
agoutis, pacas, coatis, armadillos. Additionally, the bird diversity is impressive with nearly 200 species recorded
from the backyard.
Day 2: Birding the Pipeline Road & Gamboa
Today we will have the opportunity to explore one of Panama’s most famous and prolific birding hotspots: the
Pipeline Road. The Panama Audubon Society’s Christmas Bird Count along the Pipeline Road. oftentimes
records more than 300 different species in a 24-hour period.
Most of the common colorful Neotropical families are present here, including Toucans, motmots, puffbirds,
trogons, and more. As we explore the vegetation alongside the road we may discover mixed species foraging
flocks with dozens of birds from various species including White-flanked, Checker-throated and Dot-winged
Antwrens, along with Western-slaty and Fasciated Antshrikes, Plain Xenops, Olivaceous Flatbill, and the
near-endemic Southern Bentbill.
The various habitats around the town of Gamboa boast a great number of birds, including open fields
where Yellow-bellied Seedeater, Thick-billed Seedfinch, as well as Blue-black Grassquit and Variable
Seedeater. Wetlands nearby could yield Yellow-tailed Oriole, Rufescent Tiger Heron, Greater Ani, Wattled
Jacana, Purple Gallinule, and with some luck a few glimpses of the elusive White-throated Crake.
Overnight: Soberiana Lodge
Day 3: Birding the Metropolitan Nature Park to the Darien
After breakfast this morning we will visit the Metropolitan Nature Park. This is perhaps the only rainforest within
a major capital city in Latin America. Despite its proximity to cosmopolitan Panama City, it boasts a great variety
of fauna, especially birds, including a host of colorful tanagers like Crimson-backed, Blue-gray, Goldenhooded, and even the Plain-colored Tanagers. Additionally we may find larger birds like Crimson-crested
Woodpeckers and Whooping Motmots. We will especially be on the lookout for such specialties as Lancetailed Manakin, Rosy Thrush-Tanager, Orange-billed Sparrow, Rufous-and-white Wren, White-bellied
Antbird, and with some luck the endemic Yellow-green Tyrannulet.
Late in the afternoon we will continue our journey towards Eastern Panama. Following a scenic drive along the
Pan-American Highway, we will stop at the Bayano Lake to look for some Darien specialties like Cocoi Heron
and Pied Water-tyrant. In the evening we will arrive in our motel in the Darien.
Overnight Meteti Motel
Our lodging in the Meteti Motel is not luxurious by any means; still it provides certain modern amenities like air
conditioning, and en suite bathrooms. No hot showers nor satellite TV, though. However, the Darien bird
specialties that can be found nearby will blow your mind away and will make it worthwhile.
It’s not just about the birds; this White-nosed Coati was seen taking the opportunity to grab fruit from one of the
feeders.
Day 4: Introductory birding in the Darien
Shortly after breakfast we will be birding in the Darien. Here we will be treated to many interesting lowland
rainforest species like Black-chested Jay, Purple-throated Fruitcrow, and Black-breasted Puffbird, as well as
numerous hummingbird species.
However, the greatest appeal of birding here is to search for some of Panama’s most localized birds like
the Spot-breasted Woodpecker, Yellow-breasted Flycatcher, Golden-green Woodpecker, Orange-Crowned
Oriole, and with some luck the nearly endemic Double-banded Greytail. In the afternoon we may venture
further East exploring the nearby fields and marshes hoping to find Red-breasted, and Yellow-hooded
Blackbird and with more luck the handsome Black-capped Donacobius.
Overnight: Meteti Motel
Day 5: Transfer to Darien native village
Early today we will start our journey further into the Darien. From Port Kimball we will be boarding a small
motorboat, which will take us upriver deeper into the Darien. Along the way we may find numerous herons and
egrets, White Ibis, as well as Mangrove Black Hawk, and with some luck even the rare Black-collared Hawk.
We may also spot some crab-eating raccoons working the riverbanks.
Upon arrival our Embera native hosts will welcome us and escort us to our living quarters. We will watch the
sunset while we search the skies for White Hawk, King Vulture, or even the nearly endemic Black
Oropendola.
Overnight: Embera Village
In order to have more opportunities to observe the Darien specialty birds that dwell in the primary rainforest we
will be staying at a local Embera village. This will basically be a step up from camping in the woods, with
basically no facilities beyond a sleeping mat and mosquito netting. No electricity, no en suite washrooms. The
sounds of owls, pottoos, tinamous and other nocturnal wildlife will be the main amenities. Drinking water and
meals will be provided by our native hosts. Though the conditions are a bit rough, the opportunity to stay in the
village as the natives do is an experience not to be missed.
Day 6: Searching for Harpy Eagle
Early this morning we will begin our trek through the Darien jungle towards the old-growth primary forest. This
forest typically boasts towering emergent trees, huge lianas swinging through the canopy, as well as a rich
epiphytic flora. This is one of the least known parts of Panama. Along our trail we can hope to find Rufous Piha,
Red-throated Caracara and Gray-cheeked Nunlet. With some luck we can come across endangered game
birds such as Crested Guan and Great Curassow.
In addition, we are very likely to come across an army ant swarm attracting numerous antbirds, and perhaps the
beautiful and rare Black-crowned Antpitta. We may also find attending Ruddy, Black-striped and Northern
Barred Woodcreepers, among many other possibilities.
Following lunch we will continue our explorations of the primary forest in search of Yellow-browed ShrikeVireo, Stripe-throated Wren, etc. However, the real highlight would be to find the national bird of the Republic
of Panama: the Harpy Eagle. Standing three feet tall with up to a seven feet wingspan, it is the strongest bird of
prey in the world!
Overnight: Embera village
Day 7: Departing the Darien
During our last day in the Darien wilderness we will say farewell to our native hosts and purchase some last
minute souvenirs like wood carvings or baskets to take home as presents. In addition to the spectacular avifauna
present in the Darien, one of the most memorable experiences you will take home is the warmth and friendliness
of the Embera people.
On the hike out we should keep our eyes opened for specialties like Red-billed Scythebill,, Rufous-winged
Antwren, as well as for colorful birds that should be hard to miss like the Blue Cotinga.
Late in the afternoon we shall be arriving in the town of Torti for a nice restful evening so we can reload our
energies to continue our birding adventures in Panama.
Overnight: Hotel Avicar
Hotel Avicar presents itself as the best lodging option in Eastern Panama. Even though it is not particularly
luxurious, it provides most modern amenities like air conditioning, hot showers, comfortable beds and even a
swimming pool.
Web: http://www.hotelavicar.com
Mangrove Black Hawk can be seen along the river.
Day 8: Exploring the Nusagandi Nature Reserve
Following a very early start today, we will visit the Nusagandi Nature Reserve, protected by the Kuna nation. The
primary rainforest here harbors an incredible diversity of birds including many charismatic species such as Blue
Cotinga, Great Jacamar, and Rufous-vented Ground Cuckoo. A full day here will allow us to search for some
of Panama’s most sought-after species, namely the Spiny-faced Antshrike and the enigmatic Sapayoa. Late in
the afternoon we will continue our journey along the Pan-American Highway while staying alert for such goodies
as Pearl Kite, Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, Savannah Hawk, and much more. In the evening we will check
in at our lodge in the cool mountains.
Overnight: Hostal Casa de Campo
Hostal Casa de Campo is a family-run lodge nestled in the foothills just outside Panama City. The lush
surrounding vegetation is extremely soothing. For us birders it is very convenient because the grounds provide
habitat to a number of tropical species like toucans, motmots, and oropendolas.
Web: http://www.panamacasadecampo.com
Day 9: Cerro Azul Birding
Today we will be birding the foothills of the Chagres National Park. With over 320,000 acres this is the largest
protected area in the Panama Canal Watershed. Here we can find humid forest species like Rufous-crested
Coquette, Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer, White-tipped Sicklebill, and even the endemic Stripe-cheeked
Woodpecker.
At close to 3,000 feet above sea level, in the Cerro Jefe area you will come across some mountain specialties like
Scale-crested Pygmy Tyrant, Spotted Woodcreeper, Tawny-crowned Euphonia, Yellow-eared Toucanet,
Black-and-yellow, Bay-headed, Rufous-winged, and Olive Tanagers, as well as an opportunity for the nearendemic Tacarcuna Bush Tanager.
In addition we should keep our eyes in the sky because there are good chances of spotting interesting raptors such
as White Hawk, one of the three resident Hawk-Eagles: Black, Ornate, or Black-and-white. Other raptors that
are possible include Swallow-tailed, Double-toothed and Plumbeous Kites, Short-tailed Hawk and much
more.
Overnight: Hostal Casa de Campo
Day 10: Departure back home
Today you will be driven to the Tocumen International Airport in Panama City for your flight back home.
This tour can be combined with our 19 day Costa Rica tour to cover most of the southern central American
avifauna.
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