THE 2012 HARVEST
A tour of the Boisset La Famille des Grands Vins French estates
An exceptional vintage in Burgundy
The winegrowers certainly suffered Mother Nature’s whims in 2012, with hail, shatter, summer rain,
sudden shifts in temperature, almost constant humidity, and mildew, both downy and powdery. But a
hot and sunny August in Burgundy saved the day and the harvest. As a consequence, yields were very
small but the extreme concentration foretells exceptional quality.
J. Moreau & Fils, Chablis
Winemaker: Lucie Depuydt
The bunches were so small that we had to press many more to end up with the same amount of must.
But the concentration and fragrance was tangible, right from the very first pressing. The rain that fell
mid-harvest did nothing to alter the balance and structure of these wines that are revealing complexity
and concentration at this mid-point in the ageing process.
Antonin Rodet, Côte Chalonnaise
Winemaker: Arnaud Boué
In 2012, we inaugurated the new vinification winery at Mercurey with the Clos la Bressande which is
often the first to be picked. Conditions were ideal with a minimum potential alcohol of 12°. The
grapes were in perfect health and the phenolic and acid/sugar balances indicating some vigorous
wines.
The reds were ripe, rich and striking in color, and we worked to maintain that ample crispness typical
of the Côte Chalonnaise, with moderate ageing in wood. A part of the whites were aged in new, 350l
barrels to bring elegance and discretion to the wines.
Crémant de Bourgogne
Louis Bouillot
Winemaker: Frédéric Brand
The result of the topsy-turvy weather won’t be felt until 2014. But the huge winegrowing area for
Crémant de Bourgogne is all about multiples, with its diversity of soils and grape varietals that can be
combined in infinite ways. And for this vintage, it was the varietal that came through before the
terroir. The most promising wines were the Chardonnays. With perfect acidity, fragrance and fruit,
they are fresh and lively – perfect for a great Crémant de Bourgogne that, as a result, will probably
require a lower dosage than normal.
We were even stricter regarding the selection of cuvées and batches this year to preserve the fruit as
much as possible, and this was backed up by a new approach to racking off, our special weapon to
ward off bitterness. We are expecting wines that come very close to that holy grail of capturing the
very essence of the fruit.
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Beaujolais
Mommessin,
Winemaker: François Jaubert
There was a fierce battle against fungal diseases, but oddly enough, it was the sun that caused the most
loss at the end of July, when some very hot weather dried out some of the Gamays that were
vulnerable as ripening began. These were discarded during the destalking process. The overall good
health of the grapes meant vinification went smoothly. We had to battle with the color to extract what
we needed from the thick skins, but it was worth the effort with a fine violet color for this vintage.
The 2012 wines are enchanting, with dominant aromas of redcurrant and wild strawberry sometimes
topped off with hints of blackcurrant and blueberry. The solid structure and velvety nature of the
wines make them perfect for enjoying in their youth, but also suitable to wait in the cellar for a few
years.
Château de Pierreux,
Winemaker: Lydie Nesme
The weather was like a rollercoaster. We had Siberian temperatures in February with no rain, March
was very hot and dry, and April was cold and rainy. Flowering was late and lingering, causing a lot of
millerandage. July was unpredictable and stormy and then in mid-August, we had some curative heatwave temperatures. The yield was very small, averaging an unprecedented (27hl/ha), but with some
radical sorting, our efforts were rewarded. First impressions suggest sophistication, elegance and
balance with aromas of cherry, raspberry and blueberry. The tannins are silky, colors are purple and
intense. This is a sophisticated charming vintage – phew!
Languedoc
Skalli
Laurent Sauvage*
A very dry winter and record low temperatures meant the vines were slow to come to life this year.
However, good rainfall distribution combined with long periods of sunny weather enabled the vines
were able to get all the nutrients they needed to produce a fine balance of sugar and acidity in the ripe
grapes. The harvest saw relatively low yields, particularly with the Chardonnay and Merlot grapes, but
the quality was high and will produce full-bodied, fleshy and balanced wines.
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A tour of the Boisset La Famille des Grands Vins Californian estates
California
We enjoyed optimal conditions for a harvest that was truly exceptional, both in terms of quality and
quantity. The 2012 vintage is a truly great one in California, perhaps the best for many years. The days
were hot and sunny and the nights cool and misty; perfect conditions for the grapes which ripened
undisturbed until picking.
Raymond Vineyards, Napa Valley
Winemaker: Stephanie Putman
The harvests began with the Sauvignon Blanc, followed by the Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet
Sauvignon. The team had never seen such high-quality grapes before. And to preserve the wonderful
potential of the harvest, the majority was picked at night to preserve all the freshness of the fruit. The
yield was such that the very best grapes were used to make the Reserve Selection, District Collection
and Generations cuvées.
DeLoach Vineyards, Russian River, Sonoma County
Winemaker: Brian Maloney
The harvest was perfect here, too. A fabulous vintage with an exemplary balance of maturity and
acidity. The Chardonnay was picked first, followed by the Pinot Noir and the Zinfandel. The potential
was such that the winemaker predicts some excellent wines.
Buena Vista Winery, Carneros, Sonoma County
Winemaker: David Ramey & Brian Maloney
There will be no departing from the rules for the 2012 vintage, which the winemaker believes will be
the finest for several years. The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in particular seem to thrive in the
temperate climate of this region.
Lockwood Vineyard, San Lucas Vineyard, Monterey County
Winemaker: Darin Kinzie
“Fantastic” is the adjective used to sum up the harvests at Lockwood. The region, which is best known
for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay which flourish on its fossil-rich soil, this year produced some
fabulous Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc. Everything came together to create wines full of elegance,
power and structure.
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