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Mitch Coleman, 22
Stephanie Werst
Joshua Layton
Paige Asay
Kimberly Apilado
Research:
How to Compost (SW)
1. The process of composting must begin on the bare earth. Having it in the open air
allows other organism’s vital to the process to be introduced.
2. Lay out twigs or straw as bedding. The layer should be a few inches deep. the purpose
of this is to allow drainage and helps aerate the pile.
3. The third step is to add compostable materials in layers. Each layer should alternate
moist and dry. Some of the wet ingredients are food scraps, tea bags, seaweed, etc. Dry
materials would include straw, leaves, sawdust and wood ashes. Be sure to make the
layers as even as possible.
4. Add a source of nitrogen. Things rich in nitrogen include grass clippings or fecal
matter. Adding nitrogen activates the compost pile and speeds the process along.
5. Keep compost moist. If living in a dry environment, water the pile.
6. Keep the pile covered with anything you have. Covering helps retain moisture and
heat, two essentials for compost. The covering also helps to prevents the compost from
being over-watered by rain. The compost should be moist, but not soaked and sodden.
7. Turn. Every few weeks give the pile a quick turn with a pitchfork or shovel. the
introduction of oxygen aerates the pile. Oxygen is required for the process to work.
Please note, you can skip this step if you have a ready supply of coarse material, like
straw. Once the compost pile is established, the addition of new materials should be done
so by mixing them in, rather than by adding them in layers. Mixing is key to aerating the
composting materials and speeding the process to completion. Composting on a smaller
scale, consider a buying a rotating compost tumbler, which makes it easy to mix the
compost regularly.
Carbon - carbon-rich matter (like branches, stems, dried leaves, peels, bits of wood, bark
dust or sawdust pellets, shredded brown paper bags, corn stalks, coffee filters, conifer
needles, egg shells, straw, peat moss, wood ash) gives compost its light, fluffy body.
Nitrogen - nitrogen or protein-rich matter (manures, food scraps, green lawn clippings
and green leaves) provides raw materials for making enzymes.
Why is it important
 Helps to create fertilizer that is free of artificial and potentially harmful
chemicals.
 helps to introduce organisms that are beneficial to the soil.
 Reduces waste in the landfills
 Great for gardening
environmental factors (S)
Source: http://www.epa.gov/composting/benefits.htm
Reason 1. Composting rejuvenates soil quality
Compost regenerate poor soils and puts vital nutrients back into the environment.
The composting process encourages the production of beneficial micro-organisms
(mainly bacteria and fungi). These microorganisms break down organic matter in creating
humus. Humus is a nutrient-filled material. Humus increases the nutrient content in soils.
It also helps soils retain moisture. The composting process suppresses plant diseases and
pests. Also the composting process can eliminate the need for chemical fertilizers,
creating healthier crops for those who eat them.
Reason 2 Compost helps clean up contaminated soil
“The composting process has been shown to absorb odors and treat semivolatile and
volatile organic compounds (VOCs), including heating fuels, polyaromatic hydrocarbons
(PAHs), and explosives. It has also been shown to bind heavy metals and prevent them
from migrating to water resources or being absorbed by plants. The compost process
degrades and, in some cases, completely eliminates wood preservatives, pesticides, and
both chlorinated and nonchlorinated hydrocarbons in contaminated soils.”
Reason 3 Composting reduces pollution
Composting avoids the production of methane and leachate formulation in the landfills.
Compost also can prevent pollutants in stormwater runoff from reaching surface water
resources. Compost has also been shown to prevent damaging erosion
Stuff to compost
Definition: Compost is the product resulting from the controlled biological
decomposition of organic material
Using Your Compost
 Now that you have a compost bin. You’re going to want to use your compost.
Here are some suggestions.
 1.Potted plants. 2.Bush outside. 3.Flower pots. 4.Neighborhood
composting projects where applicable. 5.Community flower garden.
6.The park. 7. Offer it up as fertilizer on. 8.Rooftop garden.
Where To Get Compost
 Collect kitchen trimmings from fruits, herbs, and vegetables for composting.
Withered flower arrangements and soiled paper napkins also make fine
compost ingredients.
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You can buy bagged compost, but the best source is homemade. Like
homemade soup, compost is different every time depending on what
materials go into it, and there is generally no single perfect list of ingredients
to make a good product. Typical ingredients include fruit and vegetable
trimmings from your kitchen, old plants from your vegetable garden, and
leaves and grass clippings from your yard.
How to know when your compost pile is ready to use?
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Patience is an important virtue for composters, because compost matures in
its own time. Warm conditions help compost work much faster in summer
than in winter. New heaps made in the fall often mature the following
summer. In comparison, midsummer compost made from garden and kitchen
waste is finished within a few weeks, because many more microorganisms
are active in warm weather. Then things slow down again in the fall.
Compost shrinks as it rots, and the material in the center and lower sections
of most heaps rots faster than the outside. When it’s ready to use, compost
has a crumbly texture and a rich, earthy smell.
You may still see sticks, roots, and other intact plant parts in otherwise wellrotted compost. These can be plucked or sifted from compost before it is
used or stored.
The cycles of compost often do not coincide with prime vegetable-planting
times, so plan to harvest and store your compost as each batch matures.
Save plastic bags from purchased soil amendments, and use them to store
compost until you are ready to use it. When kept in bags or bins for a few
weeks, lightly moist compost will continue to cure, making it even better for
your soil and plants.
Another way to be sure that you always have ready compost is to maintain
several piles so that there is always one that is ready and waiting, one that is
in process, and one to which you are adding the latest waste. The timing on
these may not be perfectly in synch either, but if you have the space, you
may find that having more than one pile is easier than storing compost in
bags.
Kimberly’s research:
Feedback about interview questions:
1) Will she count the top five as actual, “survey questions” or just getting background information?
Seems cheating a bit to get to ten questions. #5 doesn’t seem like a real survey question to me
either, more like a separate feedback part after you’d administer the official survey.
2) Just like the Seed Bombs, if they answer “no” on #1, we should have a short description to explain
to them what it is.
3) Three should probably read, “What size OF compost container, etc etc…”
4) If someone knows nothing about compost, I’m not sure how they would answer number 4. I think
we should change this question around to ask them out of the types of composting (which we’d
have to explain and tell them in short and to the point descriptions) which would they choose to use
and WHY? Adding to that, what are their CONERNS about composting? This is also big to know so
we can address it in our design. Smell? Room? Worms? Time? Etc etc.
1. What is composting?
Compost is the product resulting from the controlled biological decomposition of organic
material.
More specifically, compost is the stable, humus-like product resulting from the biological
decomposition of organic matter under controlled conditions. A wide range of materials
may be composted, but they must consist of principally organic components (i.e. carboncontaining remnants or residues of life processes).
2. What materials are used?
The starting materials for composting are commonly referred to as feedstocks.
Feedstocks such as yard trimmings, wood chips, vegetable scraps, paper products,
sorted municipal solid waste (MSW), animal carcasses, manures and wastewater
sludges (biosolids) have all been composted successfully. Mixtures of organic materials
may be more or less heterogeneous, but are rendered more physically homogenous
through the composting process. Particles are made smaller and the total volume of the
original materials is reduced (usually by 30 to 50 percent). Volume reduction is one of the
benefits of composting.
3. What should I, and should I not, compost?
http://eartheasy.com/grow_compost.html (Good chart)
4. What are the common types of composting?
Aerobic composting: - This means to compost with air. High nitrogen waste (like grass
clippings or other green material) will grow bacteria that will create high temperatures (up
to 160 degrees). Organic waste will break down quickly and is not prone to smell.
This type of composting is high maintenance, since it will need to be turned every couple
days to keep air in the system and your temperatures up. It is also likely to require
accurate moisture monitoring. This type of compost is good for large volumes of compost.
Anaerobic composting: - This is composting without air.Anaerobic composting is low
maintenance since you simply throw it in a pile and wait a couple years. If you just stack
your debris in a pile it will generally compact to the point where there is no available air
for beneficial organisms to live. Instead you will get a very slow working bacteria growing
that does not require air. Your compost may take years to break down (this is
what happens when you throw your food waste in the garbage that goes to the landfill).
Anaerobic composts create the awful smell most people associate with composting. The
bacteria break down the organic materials into harmful compounds like ammonia and
methane.
Vermicomposting: - This is most beneficial for composting food waste. Along with red
worms, this includes composting with bacteria, fungi, insects, and other bugs. Some of
these guests break down the organic materials for the others to eat. Red worms eat the
bacteria, fungi, and the food waste, and then deposit their castings. Oxygen and moisture
are required to keep this compost healthy. This is medium maintenance compost since
you need to feed your red worms and monitor the conditions.
Industrial systems: - Industrial composting systems are increasingly being installed as a
waste management alternative to landfills, along with other advanced waste processing
systems. Mechanical sorting of mixed waste streams combined with anaerobic digestion
or in-vessel composting, is called mechanical biological treatment. Treating
biodegradable waste before it enters a landfill reducesglobal warming from fugitive
methane; untreated waste breaks down anaerobically in a landfill, producing landfill gas
that contains methane, a potent greenhouse gas.
Agriculture: - In agriculture, windrow composting is used. It is the production of compost
by piling organic matter or biodegradable waste, such as animal manure and crop
residues, in long rows (windrows). This method is suited to producing large volumes of
compost. These rows are generally turned to improve porosity and oxygen content, mix in
or remove moisture, and redistribute cooler and hotter portions of the pile. Windrow
composting is a commonly used farm scale composting method.
Home: - Home composting is the simplest way to compost. At home, composting is
generally done by using composting bins or in the form of pile composting. Other
methods include trench composting and sheet composting. It is a small scale process
and requires less outlay of capital and labor.
Main Indoor composting: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/jenn-sturiale/four-ways-tocompost-indo_b_591939.html
5. What is the simplest way to compost?
~ "No-turn" composting
The biggest chore with composting is turning the pile from time to time. However, with
'no-turn composting', your compost can be aerated without turning.
The secret is to thoroughly mix in enough coarse material, like straw, when building the
pile. The compost will develop as fast as if it were turned regularly, and studies show that
the nitrogen level may be even higher than with turned compost.
With 'no-turn' composting, add new materials to the top of the pile, and harvest fresh
compost from the bottom of the bin. This can be easily done in an Aerobin Composter, or
a WIBO compost bin.
6. How does it work chemically?
Chemically, compost is exceedingly complex. It is the culmination of both degenerative
and synthetic processes at work in decaying organic material. Compost products may
vary since the properties of any given compost depend on the nature of the original
feedstock and the conditions under which it was decomposed. Yet, all compost contains
a tremendous variety of chemical substances (many newly-generated by the microbial
process itself). This presents challenges for those seeking to analyze and compare
compost products.
Carbon is the most abundant element in compost (usually about one half of the total
mass). Nitrogen is also present in compost, but in much smaller quantities (usually 1 to 2
percent). The ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N) is a common index used for assessing
feedstocks and the maturity of any given compost. Nitrogen becomes more concentrated
as carbon in organic materials is broken down and liberated as carbon dioxide. C:N ratios
in finished compost range from 12:1-20:1, but are ideally between 14:1-18:1.
Compost is biologically active. An overabundance of soil organisms is responsible for
transforming the organic matter in compost into carbon dioxide, water, humic substances
capable of releasing inorganic plant nutrients and energy in the form of heat. These
organisms are especially numerous and active in the initial phases of composting, but
many remain in smaller numbers even in the finished product. In a mature compost,
enough of the original organic material will have been consumed to prevent any
substantial increase in the activity (and therefore heat-generating capacity) of the
remaining microbes. This microbial stability is a prerequisite to compost maturity. Since
stabilized compost is no longer subject to sudden chemical changes, it may be safely
handled, stored and applied. Mature compost is normally dark brown in color and should
have an even texture and a pleasant, earthy aroma.
Composting is differentiated from the natural decomposition of organic matter because it
is a process controlled by humans. Much of this resource guide is dedicated to examining
the factors that can be managed to optimize the composting process. Of course, organic
materials are recycled by nature regardless of whether we compost them or not, but
conditions may be regulated by humans to ensure a smooth process and the generation
of a quality end product.
7. What are the benefits of composting?
Soil conditioner: With compost, you are creating rich humus for lawn and garden. This
adds nutrients to your plants and helps retain moisture in the soil.
Recycles kitchen and yard waste: Composting can divert as much as 30% of household
waste away from the garbage can.
Introduces beneficial organisms to the soil: Microscopic organisms in compost help
aerate the soil, break down organic material for plant use and ward off plant disease.
Good for the environment: Composting offers a natural alternative to chemical fertilizers.
Reduces landfill waste: Most landfills in North America are quickly filling up; many have
already closed down. One-third of landfill waste is made up of compostable materials.
8.
But I live in an apartment, how can I compost?
If properly managed, a compost bin won’t attract pests or rodents or smell bad.
Food scraps and yard waste make up 20 percent to 30 percent of what we throw away
and are the largest category of municipal solid waste going into landfills and
incinerators, says the U.S Environmental Protection Agency. Food scraps in landfills take
up space and release methane, a potent greenhouse gas. In 2011, more than 36 million
tons of food waste was generated, with only 4 percent diverted from landfills and
incinerators for composting. Composting your food scraps keeps these materials out of
landfills. At the end of several weeks (and with the help of some red wiggler worms), you
will have compost, a rich organic material that can be added to soil to help your
houseplants grow, improve your vegetable garden, or make your lawn greener.
For indoor composting, there are a variety of options, such as:
• DIY indoor compost bin - Cheap, customizable, and space friendly
• Worm bin - You can adjust the container to the size of your space
• Bokashi - A Japanese method that uses microbes to decompose food
• NatureMill - Accepts over a hundred pounds of waste every month
9. I don’t have a garden or household plants. Why should I still compost?
(Possible tax benefits??) Good for the environment as mentioned above various times.
• Use it in your houseplants and container gardens.
• Offer it to neighbors with gardens; if you don't know any, try Craigslist.
• Donate it to a school garden, community garden, or farm.
• Contact your local Master Gardeners for ideas.
Alternatively, you could see if anyone would like your un-composted scraps:
• Check with local gardens that have compost heaps. I used to bring scraps to a nearby
urban farm, and many school gardens compost, as well.
• Some farmers' markets serve as drop-off points. For example, in New York there are
bins at certain Greenmarkets, and some Vancouver farmers' markets have Food Scraps
Drop Spots.
• Some cities have private compost pick-up services, such as Bootstrap Compost in
Boston, Collective Resource in Chicago, Compost Cab in DC, and CompostNow in North
Carolina. (Austin had a service called Green Bucket, but it seems to be defunct.)
What I think we should really watch out for:
People want things simple and fast with little effort. I foresee people not wanting to stir
compost, and people not wanting to use worms. I tried searching for stir free worm free
composting and didn’t really get any hits. But I think this is going to be a big issue when
we go into design, so if anyone else came across anything that would be nice. I’ll keep
looking. Also, we’ll definitely need to address people’s concerns vs the benefits to sell the
product.
Sources:
http://www.calrecycle.ca.gov/organics/compostmulch/CompostIs.htm#Compost
http://eartheasy.com/grow_compost.html (Very good source, has info on making closed
bins, tips, tricks, etc)
http://ecowatch.com/2013/12/16/how-to-compost-apartment/
http://www.thekitchn.com/composting-without-a-garden-189247
http://www.benefits-of-recycling.com/typesofcomposting/
Helpful Links:
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/to-tabletop-composting-78557.html
http://www.bae.ncsu.edu/topic/composting/pubs/build-bin.pdf
http://eartheasy.com/grow_compost.html#a
Infographic: http://www.fix.com/blog/guide-to-composting/
Questions: (be care of not leading answers from them) (under 10 questions) (minimum 10
interviews)
1. Demographics: Age? Student (FT/PT)? Working (FT/PT)? Where do you
live? Do they already compost? Male/Female?
2. Have you heard about composting? If so, have you used it before?
3. What would get you to start this in your own home?
4. What type of material would you like to see used in constructing a compost
container?
5. Where would a compost container best fit in your household? What size
compost container would be ideal in your household?
6. Are there questions or concerns that you would have?
Stuff:
Tax incentive to compost (SW)
http://www.lrc.ky.gov/statutes/statute.aspx?id=29129
http://archive.grrn.org/zerowaste/articles/loc_gov_zw_incentives.html
http://www.taxslayer.com/support/876/kentucky-business-incentive-and-other-taxcredits?language=1