GLADSTONE TO BANANA
(By Berserker)
DUMGREE
Bidding adieux to our kind friends at Mount Alma, we continue our journey to
Dumgree Station, some twenty miles distant towards the west. At five miles from
Mount Alma homestead we cross the Calliope River and pass out of the estate.
The country alternates between ridges and flats with the same high grazing qualities as previously described. When nine miles have been covered we pass
Glayfield, a grazing farm owned by Mr. D. K. Stirratt, nephew of our host of
Mount Alma. Messrs. Horne Brothers have also grazing farms in the locality. The road for the next few miles takes us over pretty country, park-like in its green sward, dotted here and there with coolibah and gum, to the foot of the Calliope
Range, thirteen miles from Mount Alma. The range divides the waters which contribute to the Calliope River and those which flow towards the north, finally finding their way to the Fitzroy River. The range is steep and not easily negotiated with a buggy. On top of the range the road to Dumgree takes a slight turn to the north-west, while another - the old Banana Road - which passes the
Rainbow Inn some miles to the westward, branches off here. We are now in country belonging to Dumgree Station, good for grazing, and varied between open forest flats and ridges until we near the homestead, which is perceived, as we emerge from the timber standing on a high bank of Bell's Creek - a site resembling that usually chosen by the castle builders of old.
Dumgree run was selected by Mr. J. S. Bell for his brother, the late Mr. R. Bell, in the year 1856. Mr. Bell has continued to manage the station on behalf of the family of his late brother with unvarying success. Mrs. Bell, a kind and sympathetic old Iady, relict of Mr. R. Bell, still lives on the station, her gracious demeanour and hospitable greeting being proverbial among visitors to Dumgree.
In Mr. J. S Bell we find one of those sturdy pioneers who, although advanced in years, can yet take his turn in the drafting yards or "cut out" an intruding bullock from a herd. Mr. Bell named the station after the Dumgree school-house, in
Dumfrieshire, Scotland, where he went to school. He is a musician, and when he gets down his "old fiddle" and strikes a few national airs, one knows that our host has yet a regard for the land of his birth.
Dumgree contained in the first instance 230 square miles; but only about onethird of that area may be said to have been used The country is broken into numerous gullies and ravines, with precipitous hills rising to medium height.
There are some stretches of flats: but the level portions are decidedly in the minority. Mr. Bell was evidently thinking of the highlands of Scotland when he selected Dumgree run. But withal there is some good grazing land intervening with the rugged portions, a fact proved by the number of excellent cattle raised every year on the holding. About 4000 head are run on an average some being bred and fattened.
The principal portion of Dumgree is contained in a freehold of 7000 acres. There is yet a large area under occupation license which could be selected for grazing

farms: but the small holders evidently have too wide a scope to choose from, and have, therefore, not thought it worth while to acquire a portion of the Dumgree hills. Eventually, however, the country here will receive the attention of grazing farmers. It is not bad grazing land, and is well watered. It is exactly the class of country to suit Angora goats, and when the mohair industry attracts attention, such land as this will be valuable.
The chief watercourse is Bell's Creek which takes a serpentine course through the holding and joins the Dee River at Double Creek, near Calliungal homestead on the Westwood-Banana Road. The Don River joins the Dee near Rannes
Station. The Dee then carries all the waters draining this country into the Dawson
River which, in turn, conveys it to the Fitzroy River.
Dumgree was originally intended for a sheep station. In 1861 it was stocked with sheep, which did well for some years; but the spear grass seed increased to such an extent that cattle were substituted in 1883. The wool grown was of splendid quality, while the sheep were invariably in good condition. The old woolshed still stands on the rise facing the dwelling.
The zamia is prevalent on the hills of Dumgree. It has been long suspected of being the cause of rickets in cattle: but cattlemen relate some curious facts concerning it. It may be mentioned that M Stirrat, of Mount Alma, has had zamia on the run since be took possession of it: but it has been only in later years that cattle have been affected with rickets. Hence the query arises as to whether the zamia was the cause. The same experience may be cited as regards Dumgree.
The dingo finds a suitable home in the hills and gullies surrounding Dumgree, and his numbers are great. Hunting him provides a certain amount of sport while it tends to reduce the number which, when night falls, prowl round the homestead giving vent to plaintive howls. The cry of the dingo is a weird sound. Heard at dead of night, echoing out in the stillness, it strikes a melancholy chord, suggestive o f the wailing of an evil soul. “As the evening shades prevailed.”
Messrs. Bell Brothers handed the writer and his companion a rifle each and invited them to climb the hills at the rear of the homestead to see the sunset, and, perhaps, have a shot at a dingo. No little exertion was required to reach the summit. Our friends, used to mountain climbing, seemed to walk up with little effort compared with the struggle of the writer and his companion. Mr. John Bell, the younger, persisted in pointing out several peculiarities in the geological formation of the country; but he failed to elicit a reply, as it took us all our time to get sufficient breath to reach the top of the hill. Once on top the romantic scenery on every side, repaid the exertion of climbing. The various chains of mountains seemed to blend in a confused mass. The only regular outline of any extent perceptible were the Dee Ranges on the north-east. Towards the east the fertile valley of the Calliope that we passed over a day or two previously could be more clearly defined as to its extent and outline. Although we were not at a very high altitude, we had a wide view of the country lying along the coast. Looking to the west the declining sun was imparting a roseate hue to the horizon. As it neared the crest of a small hill in the distance, it was like a golden ball, and as it sank

among tile trees on the hill-top, it presented a striking picture.
As we descend a spur of the hill on the western side we hear the first eventide call of the dingo; but he is too cunning to show himself. Darkness is now stealing up the mountain side, and we decide to get home as soon as possible. As we walk along strange noises incidental to the bush float on the air. The rustle of the leaves as a gentle breeze pervades the ravines, the hoot of the mophawk, and the hundred and one sounds that betoken "bush ghosts of the night" falls on the car.
" The bittern drums upon his log
In muffled beat suggesting death;
And ever and anon the breath ls caught when heard the native dog."
With Mr. T. Bell we drive about five miles from the homestead to some lagoons to shoot. The place literally teemed with wild fowl, among which were black swan, teal, widgeon, and duck. Wonga, and squatter pigeons were seen in goodly numbers. Where the lagoons are situated is the best part of the holding of
Dumgree. There are stockyards, and the principal work in handling the cattle is done here. The homestead was built under the supervision of Mr. John Bell. It is a model of neatness. The outbuildings have been erected in a manner which implies good workmanship. A garden fronts the house and extends to the brink of the high bank rising up from Bell's Creek. The bank is perpendicular, and a masonry retaining wall has been built to sustain the earth at the top. The garden is planted with orange, lemon, mandarin, lime, and many other trees. Mr. Bell states he has been successful in growing any kind of crop. Lucerne did very well in the flats below the house. Mr. Bell contends that the locality is well adapted for agriculture. The rainfall has been ample, taken on an average, since he has been at Dumgree.
KILBIRNIE
After leaving Dumgree for Kilbirnie, our next stage, we encounter the worst country lo travel over we had yet experienced on our journey. The first few miles we cross Bell's Creek, which winds round the gorges no less than ten times.
Sometimes the road is along the bed of the creek and is heavy for travelling, being loose sand. Occasionally we pass over ridges and along rocky defiles, causing our vehicle to jolt terribly. When about eight miles from Dumgree we come to a tremendously steep gradient. We get out of the buggy to permit the horses to more easily negotiate the hill. It is a long pull, probably a mile, before we reach the summit, and then we find another equally as sleep. When we reach the top of the range we cross over the boundary between Dumgree and Kilbirnie and ran along a kind of plateau of open forest country for a further six miles, and arrive at Kilbirnie homestead.
Kilbirnie was selected as a cattle run by Mr. J. Campbell, the present owner, in
1884. Mr. Campbell took up a grazing lease of 10,000 acres and acquired the right to run stock over a large area, under occupation license. The run joins
Calliungal on the west, Kroombit on the east, Dumgree on the north, and The

Prairie on the south. The soil round about the homestead varies to that on the north side of the range. It is a kind of red loam, and, judging from the prolific fruit trees and plants in the garden fronting the house, is highly fertile.
Mr. and Mrs. Campbell came from Ayrshire, Scotland, to Queensland in 1873.
They belong to that class of settler which always, under reasonable conditions, succeeds. Mrs. Campbell is one of those kind hearted ladies often met in the bush. Comparatively isolated in the wilds of the forest, she and her husband are, as a rule, glad to see visitors. Yielding to the persuasive power of our host and hostess, we stayed two days at Kilbirnie to recoup our strength as Mrs. Campbell suggested. As we had gained in weight considerably since starting on our trip, and were, to use a sporting phrase, "in the pink of condition", the remark of our hostess caused a smile to pass round the company. However, our horses were none the worse for a day or two more rest on good grass. The second night of our sojourn at Kilbirnie Mr. John Dell came over from Dumgree, and we had a musical evening. Mr. Bell's fantasias from Scotch airs awakened feelings of love for the old land. Music under such conditions is akin to that true love so beautifully described by Sir Waiter Scott –
"It is the secret sympathy,
The silver link, the silken tie,
Which heart to heart, and mind to mind,
In body and in soul can bind."
The country comprising Kilbirnie varies between open forest, ridgy, and a little of open plain. Taken altogether, it is very well grassed. Mr. Campbell states that the cattle do remarkably well on it, fattening very quickly. There is one flat of about ten square miles of very good land. The holding is watered with creeks, wells, and dams. Cattle are bred and fattened, the yearly output being about 1200 head, all Herefords. There are about 200 horses at Kilbirnie, principally draughts bred for sale.
The homestead looks pretty in its setting, of greenery of orange, lemon, mangos, pear, and quince trees. Some beds of pineapple look well, telling of plenty of that class of fruit in season. There is no extended view from the homestead, the forest closing in a little distance away. The site for the homestead is on a gentle slope, with plenty of good soil to cultivate garden products to any extent.
THE PRAIRIE
Continuing our journey to the westward to reach The Prairie cattle station, twelve miles distant from Kilbirnie, we cross Callide Creek when five miles on the road.
When across the creek we emerge from the forest on to an open plain, which continues for the remaining seven miles to The Prairie homestead.
The Prairie Station contains 250 square miles, in which are included 160 square miles of leasehold, the remaining portion being held under occupation license.
The country is fairly level and mostly thickly timbered with ironbark, box, bloodwood, and gum. There are also some brigalow scrub, the first met on the trip across from the coast. Generally the land is very well grassed, but not well

watered with creeks or naturally-produced waters. Callide Creek and a few waterholes provide a supply for some parts of the run; but in other portions recourse is made to wells, which have an average depth of about 50 ft.
The homestead and cattle yards give unmistakeable evidence of their length of service. Mr. E. Wilson, the well-known stock and station agent of Rockhampton, informed the writer that he supervised the erection of the yards and some of the buildings in the early sixties. The water supply for the homestead is obtained from a well 44 ft. deep near the stockyards. It has 12 ft. of water in it constantly.
Around the homestead the country is level, with an open plain stretching for about seven or eight miles towards the north. About 12,000 acres have been ring-barked. The boundaries are not fenced, the limitations of the run being defined by promiscuous ridges or old watercourses as the case may be. Here, as in many other places embracing similar country, the stockowners have their periodical musters and sort out any stray cattle belonging to a neighbour, who, if he is not represented at the mustering, receives word that a certain number of his cattle have been found among the herds of the adjoining holders and are ready for his disposal. Four large paddocks have been enclosed for fattening purposes.
The country comprising The Prairie, a name derived from the open plain referred to, was selected in the beginning of the sixties by Mr. Walsh, but was almost immediately purchased by Mr. Morton, now in New Zealand. Six years ago the property was acquired by the Queensland Cattle Company, formerly the
Queensland Investment Company. Mr. H. Goodrich, the present manager, was appointed two years ago.
A herd of about 5000 Shorthorn cattle is raised annually on an average and about twenty blood horses.
Some parts of the run have been recently surveyed into grazing forms ready to be thrown open for selection. The land is good for grazing: but water will need to be conserved in dams or tanks or else obtained from wells.
Teaching the Blacks a Lesson
There is a story told in which The Prairie is associated regarding an attempt to teach the blacks, in the early days, what was termed "a lesson", for some alleged misdeeds. The " teaching of the lesson", which might have ended disastrously for the whites engaged in it, has its humorous aspect. Old hands tell the story, and as the various narratives seem to agree, its accuracy may be taken for granted. It appears that during M r. Morton’s tenure of The Prairie (some time towards the close of the sixties) the aborigines had given the station trouble by spearing cattle and other nefarious practices, and a “council of war” was held. It was arranged that all available hands both on The Prairie and neighbouring stations should be mustered to surround a camp of about 200 niggers. For some days active preparations were going on - making bullets, filling powder flasks, and cleaning firearms. Speculation was rife among the projected besiegers as to the number of niggers each would bring down. Each picture on the walls of the dwelling was an imaginary nigger, and steady aim was practised at the portraits

of, perhaps, dead warriors who had fought for the honour of Great Britain in the long ago. Of course they did not actually shoot at the pictures. It was merely an ebullition of that feeling which prompts enthusiasm when men anticipate great deeds.
Everything being in readiness, one night a cavalcade wended its way slowly out of the station yards to the scene of action. The blacks had by sonic means heard that war was to be declared against them, and, in consequence, made preparations for a defence. The savage in his pristine condition was in great contrast to the somnolent nigger of the present day. Before the advent of the whites with tobacco and rum, and in later years the Chinaman with opium, the original race was alert and active. The members of the party rode to within a mile or so of the blacks' camp and secured the horses, continuing on foot. They saw a fire on the outskirts of the timber, about five miles from the homestead, and cautiously approached it; but on finding no blacks about, proceeded further to see anther fire, with the same result. It appears the blacks had cunningly lit fires to entrap the unwary besiegers some distance from their main camp, knowing that the whites would take notice of any fires in the vicinity. While the party that was to teach the blacks a valuable lesson was stealthily creeping onwards the blacks were gradually closing round. One or two blacks and a gin who were friendly to the station people came running along to inform the whites that they were surrounded and that "blackfellow" would kill them all if they did not get back to the horses and ride for their lives. The leaders of the party, seeing the blacks running towards, them, thought they were being charged, and some of them in their flurry, fright, and excitement, discharged their weapons unintentionally in the air or into the ground. In attempting to re-load, some put bullets in the guns before the powder, while one, so awfully nervous, pulled a revolver off, shooting a comrade in the heel. One boomerang was thrown and stuck into the calf of a squatter's leg. He thought he was killed and howled unmercifully, while, bopping round on one foot, he gripped the other in his hand. The brave party ran back as best it could to the horses, pursued by the blacks, who, apparently, did not wish to take life. The blacks delighted in telling the story to neighbouring station hands, exclaiming, "My word, you ought see while fellow run, blackfellow after him like a long emu." Any further lessons to blacks were deferred by the gallant band.
“Morning Bulletin” 31 July 1900 pp 6,7