SAM-1 INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
For a 2015 Rockwood 2109S
Recommended Tools/Materials:







Flat work surface and a towel, cardboard or other material to prevent surface damage
Phillips screwdriver and/or square tip screwdriver, both #2 tips
Wire Cutter
Wire Stripper
Wire Lug Crimper
Two additional 14-16 AWG (blue) butt crimp splices
One foot length each of 14 AWG Black and White hookup wire (note: maybe salvaged from original installation;
details below)
View of Original Range Hood Installation
1.
Remove Range Hood:
Disconnect 12 volt power to the range hood. Select a flat work surface and cover with some material to prevent
marring. Remove the screws that secure the range hood to the cabinet. This installation has 4 screws through the
top of the range hood into the bottom of the cabinet. As you lower the hood, unplug or cut the power supply
leads individually at the wire nuts closest to the range hood (leaving as much wire as possible remaining to hang
from the cabinet). Place the disconnected range onto the work surface with the OEM fan box facing up and the
exhaust port nearest you.
**Note: In this installation there is a small plastic box labeled “Fuse and Filter” with both a yellow and black wire
in and out. Internally, it appears the box contains an inline power line filter. This feature was left in place and the
power wires were cut below this filter. The yellow wire out of the filter is +12 vdc and is connected to the black
wire leading to the range hood. The black wire out of the filter is ground and is connected to the white wire
leading to the range hood. The black and white wires were cut just above the factory crimp connectors attaching
the wires leading to the range hood.
Page 1 of 5
Bottom View of the Original Range Hood
2.
Disconnect Ground Wires:
Remove the Phillips/square tip screw securing the electrical wiring cover. Remove the electrical wiring cover from
the range hood to expose the wires connecting the fan box to the power supply. Cut the white supply ground wire
and the green safety ground wire at the wire crimp connection to separate those wires.
**Note: Determine the color of the wires leaving the light switch and fan switch supplying the original fan box. In
this installation, the red wire was connected to the light switch and the black wire was connected to the fan switch
3.
Cut the Light and Fan Switch Wires:
Caution: Do not modify the positive 12 volt supply lead. This lead (black in this installation) runs from the original
power wire crimp connector below the small filter box to the light on/off switch then jumpers over to power the
fan on/off switch. This circuit must remain undisturbed.
Cut the wire exiting the fan box that connects to the light switch (red in this installation). Cut the wire exiting the
fan box that connects to the fan switch (black in this installation). Leave as much wire as possible connected to the
switches (cut close to the fan box).
Original Wiring Cut Separating Switches and Ground Wire from Fan Box
Page 2 of 5
4.
Remove Original Fan Box:
Remove the 4 screws securing the fan box to the range hood. Next, identify and straighten the 2 metal tabs above
the exhaust port (one located on each side) and remove the fan box from the range hood.
Metal Tabs Straightened to Remove Fan Box
Before proceeding, position your new SAM-1 upgrade with the filter up and exhaust port nearest you.
5.
Strip and Crimp Ground Wires to SAM-1 Pig Tail:
Unplug the three circuit pig tail (with the blue butt connectors) from the right rear side of your new SAM-1. Strip
and twist a one foot length of 14 AWG White circuit ground wire (repurposed from the original fan assembly) and
the green safety ground wire cut during installation step #2. In order facilitate this connection; it may be easier to
remove the ground wire by removing the green screw securing it to the range hood.
Green Safety Ground Wire and a Piece of 14 AWG White Wire Stripped and Twisted
Crimp the two twisted wires to the white pig tail’s butt connector.
Page 3 of 5
**Note: In order to be consistent with the configuration of the upgrade wiring in Step 6 below, the two wires
coming from the two switches were exchanged by removing them at the respective switch (spade connectors) and
reconnecting at the other switch thus resulting in the red wire coming from fan switch and the black wire coming
from the light switch.
6.
Strip and Crimp Switch Sires to SAM-1 Pig Tail**:
Strip the cut end of the fan switch wire and crimp it to the red pig tail’s butt connector. Strip the cut end of the
light switch wire and crimp it to the black pig tail’s butt connector.
**Note: Crimped connections must be firm to remain intact
Reattach the ground lug to the range hood if removed in Step #5 above.
Black, Red and White/Green Wires Crimped to Pig Tail
7.
Align and Fasten SAM-1 into Range Hood:
Temporarily fit the gasket over the SAM-1 exhaust outlet with the paper side facing the outside wall. Place SAM-1
inside the range hood with the gasket against the exhaust opening. Check the alignment of the original mounting
screw holes with SAM-1’s mounting slots. Once proper gap-free gasket alignment is accomplished, remove the
adhesive-protecting paper and securely fasten SAM-1 to the range hood using the four original #8 screws or the
#10 x 3/8” Phillips screws provided with the Upgrade Kit. (Refrain from fastening the fifth and final screw to the
back-right screw hole; it will be fastened in Step #8).
8.
Test the Range Hood:
In order to test the new upgrade without fully installing the range hood, longer power and ground wires should be
used so that the upgrade may be wired to power and ground while resting on a support placed on top of the
range. A longer ground wire was installed in Step #5.
Plug the pig tail into SAM-1. Splice in a one foot length of 16 AWG Black wire to the end of the Black wire
connected to the light switch using a blue butt connector. Feed this Black wire along with the White wire installed
in Step #5 through the hole in the top of the range hood. The original wiring cover needs to be slightly modified by
bending the original tab (that helps hold the OE electrical wiring cover to OE fan box) perpendicular to the cover
Page 4 of 5
(so as not to interfere with the wall of the new fan box). The original wiring cover installs in its original position
(covering the wiring and the back of the light and fan switches) and is secured with the final screw.
Note: If it is desired to use the new wiring cover, no trimming is necessary for 20” deep range hood systems.
Range hoods that are 18” deep will require 2” to be cut off from the end of the cover with tin snips.
Move the updated range hood to a position under the cabinet and place it on a suitable support (cardboard carton,
blocks, etc.) Reestablish the power and ground connections by connecting the Black wire to the +12 vdc supply
source and the White wire to the ground wire under the cabinet using 14-16 AWG (blue) crimp butt splices.
Refer to Operating instructions to test your new Fabulous Operating Products SAM-1 ventilator.
9.
Final Installation of SAM-1 Upgrade:
With proper operation verified in Step #8, reattach the range hood assembly to the cabinet using the mounting
screws removed in Step #1. Insure that the wiring above the hood is tucked properly into the opening in the
bottom of the cabinet to prevent pinching/crushing of the wiring as the hood is positioned.
Final Installation of the SAM-1 Range Hood Upgrade
9A. Optional Step:
Note: Customers may also opt to use their original equipment (OE) wall grill/vent. SAM-1 is compatible with OE
wall vents. Metal exhaust flapper dampers should be removed after taking out original fan box. Customers may
also opt to remove any flapper damper built into the OE wall vent. Remember, your SAM-1 has a mechanical easy
slide damper to keep tiny insects, moisture, dust or hot and cold weather out of your coach/rig when not in use. If
using a Fabulous Non-Restrictive Wall Grill/Vent, proceed to step #10.
10. Installing the Non-Restrictive Wall Grill/Vent:
Proceed outside the coach/rig to install your new Fabulous Non-Restrictive Wall Grill/Vent with gasket (no glue,
mastic, butyl or putty tape necessary). Remove old wall vent, clean wall then screw new wall grill (with louvers
pointing down) through the mounting flange and gasket to the wall using the #8 x 1” Phillips screws provided. A
bead of sealant may be run around the four sides of mounting flange along the wall, although that sealant is not
necessary when utilizing the provided Fabulous Operating Products grill/vent gasket.
Page 5 of 5