Water Dragon Care- Physignathus cocincinus
Chinese water dragons (also known as Asian, Thai or Green water dragons) are a native
arboreal (tree dwelling), diurnal (active during the day) reptile to the forests of India, China and
Southeast Asia. They prefer to live on the banks of freshwater lakes and streams. Water
dragons are carnivorous and insectivorous. Males grow to about 3 feet in length with about
two-thirds of the body length being the tail. Females reach a slightly smaller adult length. In
captivity (with proper diet and husbandry), water dragons may live from 10 to 15 years. Do not
use this care sheet for Australian water dragon (Physignathus lesueurii) as this species has very
different requirements for diet, heat and humidity.
Diet
Water Dragons are carnivorous reptiles accustomed to warm temperatures in humid
environments. The diet recommended for Water Dragons consists of insects and pinkies.
Animal Items
Isopods (pill bugs)
Beetles
Waxworms
Moths
Grasshoppers
Grubs
Crickets & Mealworms may be fed, but require gutPinky Mice
loading 2 days prior to feeding.
*Never offer scorpions or lightning bugs.
Vitamin supplements are unnecessary, and in fact are often harmful. When feeding live insects,
only provide as many insects as the animal can eat in a few hours. Clean water should be
available at all times and, due to high cage humidity, frequent water changes are necessary to
minimize bacterial contamination.
Temperature and Lighting
Daytime ambient temperature (everywhere in the enclosure) should be maintained around 85
degrees F (29 - 32 C). Night time ambient temperature should be maintained at 75 - 80 degrees
F (29.5 - 35 C). Water dragons prefer to bask in elevated branches. An Incandescent lamp for
basking should should be placed over the branch. Light bulb wattage should be adequate to
provide a basking temperature around 90-95 degrees F (32-35 C). This temperature should be
measured with a thermometer placed directly at the basking site.
Water dragons require a good source of UVB light for at least 8 hours every day. Fluorescent
lamps with a stronger UVB output, such as the Repti-sun 8.0 (ZooMed) or ReptiGlo 8.0
(Exoterra) are appropriate. A mercury vapor lamp, such as Power Sun by ZooMed or Mega Ray
at www.reptileUV.com provides both heat and UVB. The lamp should be within 18 inches of the
animal's body, with no glass or plastic between them.
Housing
Water dragons require relatively high ambient humidity levels. Recommended cage substrates
include orchid bark or bedding bricks made of coconut fiber which absorb and expand when
exposed to water. The majority of intestinal impactions occur due to sand (including CalciSand), crushed walnut shell, or other substrates composed of small, equal-sized particles and
therefore these are not recommended. Indoor-outdoor carpeting is also not recommended
due to the possibility of carpet threads constricting toes or being ingested.
If possible, provide growing plants in the enclosure to retain proper humidity levels as well as
provide climbing, basking and hiding spots. Be sure to use plants that are non-toxic and thrive
in high humidity environments.
Veterinary Care
As with many captive reptiles, the most common medical issues seen are due to improper diet
or inadequate husbandry. Metabolic bone disease can result from a diet lacking in calcium or
from a diet high in calcium depleting nutrients. We can also seen nutritional disorders
secondary to parasite infections. Water dragons do not hibernate, so any period of inactivity or
decrease in appetite is cause for concern. Swellings on the legs or jaw should also be examined
by a veterinarian as soon as possible.
Make sure any substrate and soil used in the cage is free of fertilizers and pesticides as these
are toxic to reptiles. If using live plants, make sure potting soil is fertilizer free and the plants
have been washed repeatedly before placing in the enclosure. If the plant requires fertilizing,
rotate it out of the enclosure for a few weeks.
Gut-Loading
Gut-loading is the practice of feeding insects a diet high in calcium, protein, and other nutrients
prior to offering the insects to reptiles and amphibians. Domestic crickets and meal worms
should be fed a commercial, grain-based calcium enriched cricket diet such as those made by
Flukers or ZooMed, or a diet consisting of four parts chicken or turkey starter mash and one
part calcium carbonate for two or three days before offering the crickets to your pet. Also, offer
the crickets water in a shallow dish or wet sponge. Gut-loading beyond 2-3 days is not
beneficial, and can actually decrease the life expectancy of the insects.
© ORANGE GROVE ANIMAL HOSPITAL, SVG, PC 2014