EATING YOUR WAY THROUGH PARIS
Munching, dininng, and snacking in Paris is one of the cities main
delights. Below are some of the spots that Adrian and I will be
frequenting during our stay in the city. Many of these establishments
have websites, so be sure to check.
BISTROS A Bistro is a place where you can eat inexpensively (for
Paris) in a relaxed atmosphere. Generally these places attract a local
clientel and offer regional or local fare. These days you can find a host
of such places in Paris to eat inexpensively and extremely well.
Lunchtime is the best time to find bargain set menus. Prices will
inevitably be more expensive in the evening, but most of these
bistrots offer a €25-30 (£20-24) set menu for dinner, which is still
excellent value considering the quality of the cuisine.
Chez Gladines
Chez Gladines is something of a brand name among Parisian bohos
and strapped-for-cash students. This relaxed and always-bustling
kitchen in Paris' village-like Butte aux Cailles neighborhood offers
quality French Basque-style meals for around $10-$20. Hearty dishes
like potatoes with ham and cantal cheese, enormous mixed salads, or
cassoulet await. Two caveats: neither reservations nor credit cards are
accepted, so arrive early and bring cash.
5 rue des Cinq Diamants; +33 (0)1 4580 7010. Lunch, plat du jour €8
(£6); dinner a la carte, €15 (£12). Metro: Place d'Italie
Au Duc de Montmorency
Address: 46 rue de Montmorency, 3rd arrondissement
Metro: Rambuteau or Arts et Metiers
Tel.: +33 (0)1 42 72 18 10
Open: Mon-Sun, 8:30 a.m.- 9:00 p.m.
This humble market-style bistro near the Centre Georges Pompidou is
well-known for its creative, freshly-prepared plats du jour, tasteful
salads, and decent-to-very-good wines served by the glass for next to
nothing. The owner, Laurent Delcros, formerly served in posher
kitchens, and brings know-how and a pinch of audacity to classic
French bistro dishes. Set menus (glass of wine included) run at around
$15-20, and plats du jour are often under $12.
Polidor
Address: 41 Rue Monsieur le Prince, 6th arrondissement
RER: Luxembourg (Line B)
Tel.: +33 (0)1 43 26 95 34
Open: Mon-Sat, 12 pm-2:30 pm and 7 pm-12:30 am; Sun. 12 pm2:30 pm and 7 pm-11 pm
This is a legendary Paris bistro where luminaries like Hemingway and
Andre Gide once occupied the tables. Open since the mid-19th century,
this is one of the rare places in the overpriced Odeon area where one
can find solid traditional cuisine that's not exorbitant. Lunch menus
available for 9 or 18 Euros (approx. $12-$24). Polidor's homemade
pumpkin soup, tarts and cakes are especially recommended. Credit
cards not accepted.
Les Dingues
You won't read about Les Dingues - The Crazies - in any guidebook,
and you won't see any tourists here either, because this is a rare find
- an authentic neighbourhood bistrot oozing with Parisian character.
There are always a crowd of noisy regulars gathered at the bar,
where it seems to be pastis-a-go-go all day long. The chef, Pat
Basille, looks like a character from the Pirates of the Caribbean, but
in his tiny kitchen he creates seriously delicious dishes like entrecote
steak flambéd in cognac or ravioli poached in brie sauce, which are
included on the very reasonably-priced set lunch and dinner menu.
After lunch, discover the nearby Viaduc des Arts, an old viaduct
converted into artisan ateliers and shops.
· 17 rue de Rambouillet;
+33 (0)1 4345 3538. Set lunch, €15 (£12); set dinner, €20 (£16).
Metro: Gare de Lyon
Chez Germaine
The trend of offering gastronomic cuisine at reasonable prices may
be a new one, but several ancient bistrots excelling in traditional
French cuisine have been hidden away for decades. Chez Germaine
is definitely one of these, an intimate, romantic dining room of just 25
seats. Wonderful homemade terrines, tasty grillades of the day, and
tempting desserts like papillon au chocolat. And Chez Germaine is
one of the rare addresses where the set price menu doesn't go up in
the evening. Remember that the bistrot is just by the chic Bon Marche
department store, where foodies shouldn't miss visiting their Grande
Epicerie food hall, the Parisian equivalent of Fortnum & Mason.
·
30 rue Pierre Leroux; +33 (0)1 4273 2834. Set lunch & dinner, €16.50
(£13). Metro: Vaneau
Georgette
Although it is worth reserving a table here just for the delightfully
kitsch 60s design, the owner, Georgette herself, creates a surprising
menu built around seasonal products, especially vegetables. She
doesn't have a set menu, and prices are not quite bistronomiques, but
it is refreshing to see dishes like free range chicken roasted and
stuffed with a seasonal aromatic herb (reine des pres), tender supions
(baby squids) with homemade pasta, or a delicious garlicky brandade
de morue (creamy cod mashed up with potatoes).
· 29 rue SaintGeorges; +33 (0)1 4280 3913. Lunch, plat du jour, €15-18 (£12-14);
dinner, a la carte, €40 (£32). Metro: Notre-Dame-de-Lorette
RESTAURANTS IN THE EIFFEL TOWER
If you're looking for scenic and romantic dining and are willing to pay
steep prices for the unparalleled setting offered by the Eiffel Tower's
two restaurants (one boasts a Michelin star) they are definitely worth a
try.
Le 58 Tour Eiffel
Located on the tower's first level, this restaurant offers traditional
French cuisine. Large windows afford views of the Trocadero area of
Paris, as well as the elaborate metal design of the tower itself. Try to
reserve at least two weeks ahead as it's something of a feat to get a
table here.
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Seats: 200 people
Fare: Traditional French cuisine
Bar: On ground level of restaurant; serving drinks and refreshments
Price range: Moderately expensive (around 65 Euros per person for
set dinner menus)
Ambiance: Eclectic decor is both rustic and contemporary
Dress code: Somewhat dressy (avoid jeans and sneakers)
Reservations: required by phone or fax or book online
Phone: 33 (0)1 72 76 18 46
Dinner and Cruise Deals For Le 58 Tour Eiffel: The tour company Paris
Trip is now offering a Seine River Cruise/Eiffel Tower Dinner package
that includes pickup from your hotel, an evening boat sightseeing tour,
and dinner at Le 58 Tour Eiffel, for around $150 (note that prices may
change without notice). This can be booked online
Le Jules Vernes
This is a one-star Michelin restaurant located on the tower's second
level, and is also a level up on the refinery scale. This is a traditional
gastronomic French kitchen which happens to be run by worldrenowned chef Alain Ducasse. The views of the city are remarkable
from Le Jules Vernes, and the fare is reputed as excellent, though
quite pricey. As can be expected, the Jules Vernes is booked solid
most days, so try to reserve as early as possible, even weeks in
advance.
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Access: by private elevator (south pillar)
Fare: Gastronomic seasonal French cuisine
Wine: Wine list has good selection, some for under $40
Price range: Around $65 (lunch menu), up to $200 for dinner
Ambiance: Sleek contemporary decor, with striking views of the city
and impressions of the tower's intricate metal latticework.
• Dress code: dressy
• Reservations: required by phone or fax
Phone: 33 (0)1 45 55 61 44 Fax: Fax: 33 (0)1 47 05 29 41
CHOCOLATE AND HOT CHOCOLATE
Christian Constant
Address: 37 rue Assas
Metro: St. Placide or Rennes
Tel.: +33 (0)1
53 63 15 15
Christian Constant has two shops in Paris, one close to the
Luxembourg Gardens. His chocolate is rated by food critics worldwide
as some of the world's finest, and he is particularly applauded for
delicacies like raspberry ganaches, chocolate-covered orange peel,
chocolates with spicy or herbal notes, or his famous "palet d'or",
confected from fresh cream and dark chocolate. Christian Constant
also offers a dazzling selection of cakes, pastries, and five-- count 'em,
five-- decadent varieties of hot chocolate.
Jean Paul Hevin
Address: 231 Rue Saint Honoré
Metro: Tuileries or Pyramides
Tel.:
+33 (0)1 55 35 35 96
Another renowned chocolate artisan is Jean Paul Hevin, whose chic
boutique and upstairs tearoom in the heart of the Rue St Honoré
fashion district merits a visit. At the boutique, high grade solid
chocolate bars and beautiful chocolate pastries lie in the counter in
addition to a large collection of ganache and whimsical chocolate
sculptures. Hevin has a particular talent for using Asian-inspired
ingredients such as ginger. In the tearoom, I recommend trying one of
Hevin's signature gourmet hot chocolates.
Michel Chaudun
Address: 149 Rue de l'Université
Metro: Invalides
Tel.: +33 (0)1
47 53 74 40
The former head of La Maison du Chocolat, Michel Chaudun is, handsdown, one of the world's best artisan chocolatiers. Known for his
whimsy as much as his mastery of the classics, you can expect to find
anything from simple dark or milk bars and truffles to chocolate
crafted to look exactly like sausages at his shop. Chaudun is also a
talented chocolate sculptor-- he once cast a chocolate mold out of
performance artist Laurent Moriceau, which was then devoured by
spectators at the Palais de Tokyo. A must for chocolate lovers.
Michel Cluizel
Address: 201, Rue St. Honoré
Metro: Tuileries
Tel.: +33 (0)1 42
44
11 66Michel Cluizel chocolates have been renowned since the mid-20th
century, when Michel Cluizel first opened a family-run shop in
Normandy. One of the rare chocolatiers to process their own carefullyselected cocoa beans, Michel Cluizel's chocolates are known for their
distinct, balanced flavors. At the famous store near the Tuilleries
Gardens and the St. Honoré fashion district, visitors can indulge in
delicious dark or milk bars, each produced from a distinct blend of
cocoa beans in Cluizel's chocolaterie. Whole cocoa beans can also be
purchased.
Pierre Herme
Address: 72 Rue Bonaparte
Metro: St.-Germain-des-Près
Tel.:
+33 (0)1 43 54 47 77
The world's most celebrated pastry chef, Pierre Herme has also won
accolades for his line of gourmet chocolates. At the main shop in the
St-Germain district, chocolate aficionados will find an incomparable
selection of chocolate cakes, pastries, and macaroons, as well as
unclassifiable confections like the famous "Death by Chocolate"--the
name speaks for itself. You can also sample varieties of chocolates
sure to stimulate the palate, such as pralines with caramelized sesame
seeds or ganaches with orange and balsamic vinegar.
Angelina
Probably the most-coveted spot for hot chocolate in Paris, and always
flooded with tourists, this Vienna-style Belle Epoque tearoom circa
1903 is famed for its ultrarich, strictly traditional chocolat chaud. It's
not my personal favorite (I find it to be a bit too sweet and thick) but
for many people Angelina's hot chocolate is the gold standard. Always
reserve ahead, especially in colder months and on weekends, when
long lines of tourists waiting for tables snake out onto Rue de Rivoli.
• Address: 226 rue de Rivoli
• Metro: Tuilerie, Concorde
Phone: +33 (0) 1 42 60 82 00
BREAD, TARTS AND CAKES
Even visitors who aren't terribly food-oriented could not fail to be
enthralled by a first encounter with a Paris boulangerie shop window.
Despite the recent emergence of Starbucks outlets and "McCafés",
Parisian boulangeries-patisseries have managed to withstand
globalization and mass production, by continuing to produce quality
breads, pastries and cakes that are eye-catching, sumptuous, and
often downright decadent. With one on virtually every corner, you will
never go croissant-hungry, but if you're looking for that extra-special
baguette or raspberry tart, here is a concise list of some of the best
bakeries in Paris.
Le Grenier a Pain
Address: 38 rue des Abbesses
Tel.: 33 (0)1 46 06 41 81
Metro:
Abbesses
Winner of the 2010 prize for Best Baguette in Paris, this prestigious
bakery located in the heart of Montmartre is run by Michel Galloyer, a
member of France's "Académie Culiniaire". The decor is appealingly
rustic, with the breads and cakes strikingly presented. The almond and
apricot bread is sublime, and the chocolate tarts are second-to-none.
Breads are reasonably priced, while the individual tarts are slightly
above average (3.20 Euros for a chocolate tart), but in this instance,
worth the extra cents.
Pollane
Address: 8 rue du Cherche-Midi
Tel.: 33 (0)1 45 48 42 59
Metro: Saint-Sulpice
Established by Pierre Poilane in 1932, this bakery has stood the test of
time. Son Lionel continues to bake bread in the original wood-fired
oven. Sourdough bread baked from stone-ground flour is a specialty
here, as are exquisite butter cookies. The unique online ordering
system offers potential original gifts, or the chance to keep up your
bread habit if your trip to Paris is temporary.
Pain d'Epis
Address: 63 avenue Bosquet
Tel.: 33 1 45 51 75 01
Metro: Ecole Militaire
Located on the prosperous and ultra-chic rue Bosquet, around the
corner from the Eiffel Tower, Pain d'Epis has developed a name for its
top-class baguettes and loaves, including its unique baguette royale
made from mixed-flour dough. An impressive line of fougasse (olive
oil-laced bread loaf with fillings) is also a draw card, with varying
combinations including goat's cheese and sun-dried tomatoes, or
goat's cheese and paprika.
Le Moulin de la Vierge
Address: 166 avenue de Suffren
Tel.: 33 1 47 83 45 55
Metro:
Denfert-Rochereau
Andre Lefort, the last living representative of this family bakery, is
something of a wood-fired oven guru around Paris. He still oversees
the running of the bakery, where organic flour is used and wood-fired
cooking takes precedence. Bread favorites include the pain de
campagne and the paresseuse sourdough baguette. The pain au
raisins (fluffy custard-filled pastry with raisins) is also a must for any
visit. Le Moulin de la Vierge has additional outlets in Paris' 7th, 14th &
15th arrondissements.
Maison Kayser
Address: 14 rue Monge
Tel: 33 (0)1 44 07 17 81
Metro: Maubert Mutualité
Three generations of Kaysers have established a number of bakeries
across Paris, where they sell their unique variety of bread, comprising
a mix of milk, hazelnuts and honey. The pain céréales (multigrain loaf)
has a notably light and fluffy texture, and the raisin baguette makes
for a perfect breakfast treat. Gourmet ready-made sandwiches and
salads are a lunchtime feature at the Latin Quarter bakery.
Le Notre
Address: 10 rue Saint Antoine
Tel.: 33 (0)1 53 01 91 91
Metro: Bastille
Le Notre's window displays are an art form in themselves, and many a
tourist can be observed staring longingly at the impeccably presented
opéra (a dense chocolate cake) or fraisier (sponge cake with
strawberries). Unfortunately for some, prices veer on the outrageous
side (you can pay up to 50 Euros for a cake of four servings), but if
you're out to impress or looking for something extra special, Le Notre
will deliver. Top-quality foie gras and smoked salmon are also
available.
CANDY
A l’Etoile d’Or
30, rue Fontaine (9th)
Métro: Blanche Tel: 01 48 74 59 55
Open daily, except
Sunday (and occasionally closed Monday)
(Call before coming on Monday, as
hours may vary.)
Many call this the best candy shop in Paris. Run by Denise Acabo who officiates
at the shop in braided pig-tails, necktie, and crisply-pleated kilt. One reason to
visit A l’Etoile d’Or is simply because it’s the only place outside of the original
shop in Lyon that sells Bernachon chocolate. Bernachon is one of the handful of
chocolate shops in the entire world that makes the chocolate they use from
scratch. They buy sacks of cacao beans, then roast and grind them into pure,
dark bittersweet chocolate. If you have not tasted this chocolate you have not
eaten chocolate.