An Instructional Manual on How
too Breed Ball Pythons
By Elle Adelman
Table of Contents
iii
Table of Contents
Table of Contents ........................................................................................................................... iii
Introduction ..................................................................................................................................... v
Husbandry ....................................................................................................................................... 3
Enclosure Space .......................................................................................................................... 3
Temperature ................................................................................................................................ 4
Humidity ..................................................................................................................................... 6
Substrate...................................................................................................................................... 6
Choosing a Ball Python ................................................................................................................ 11
Genes......................................................................................................................................... 12
Size............................................................................................................................................ 12
Choosing a Reputable Breeder.................................................................................................. 13
After Successful Copulation ......................................................................................................... 23
Incubation and Hatchling Care ..................................................................................................... 29
Incubation Set Up ..................................................................................................................... 29
Candling .................................................................................................................................... 30
Dimpling ................................................................................................................................... 30
Hatching .................................................................................................................................... 31
Controversy ................................................................................................................................... 35
Index ............................................................................................................................................. 37
Introduction
Introduction
In this guided informational & instructional manual, you will learn how to successfully breed
your ball pythons and care for both adults and their offspring during this tedious process. This
manual will help to increase your clutch yield (which will in turn increase your profits), define
common terminology used amongst breeders, show novice breeders shortcuts to be
avoided/common mistakes, and discuss controversial breeding methods.
v
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Husbandry
Husbandry
Husbandry is the first step in becoming a successful ball python breeder because without
adequate husbandry, your snake will not be in good enough health to be bred. Husbandry is
defined as the care, cultivation, and breeding of crops and animals, or in simpler terms, the
needed conditions your snake will need you to provide for it that it would naturally be found in.
Components of husbandry include enclosure space, temperature, humidity, and substrate.
Enclosure Space
When it comes the time you decide to switch from pet owner to breeder, it will be in you and
your snake’s best interest to utilize a rack system to mediate an optimal and constant
environment to keep stress levels for you snake minimal as possibly (which in the end will keep
your stress levels minimized as well). A rack system looks almost like a set of drawers for snakes
and it is a common misconception that they are “cruel” caging systems that make the snake feel
cramped. It is important to remember that a snake is a reptile that enjoys spending most of the
day hidden underneath rocks, logs, and other tight spaces most of the day. Therefore it is actually
more stressful for a snake to have extra open space where it feels vulnerable and out in the open.
Using a rack system eliminates this extra space and reduces, if not eradicates, the need for hides.
Rack systems also contribute to better temperature and humidity control in comparison to the
glass tanks sold at pet stores. Rack systems also help you as a breeder by reducing space needed
per animal, therefore enabling a greater amount of breeding stock to be held in a smaller space.
Apcages.com is a great website to find functional & cheap rack systems
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How to Breed Ball Pythons
Temperature
Problems with temperature gradient can be the leading problems most novice ball python owners
will come across if not properly informed. Snakes are poikilothermic, which means instead of
maintaining an internal homeostasis like you or I would as mammals, they rely on ambient
temperatures from their surroundings to regulate their internal temperature. Regulation of
temperature is crucial to invoke a feeding response in your snake, which ultimately leads to
getting your snake to the correct weight for breeding, and for a proper digestion of meals.
Inadequate digestion of meals will lead to health problems, expensive vet bills, or even death if
the problem is not addressed correctly in a timely manner.
The ideal temperature range for your snake involves a hot and cold side of the enclosure so the
snake can choose when it wants to heat up its internal body temperature or cool down its body
temperature (for conserving energy during times of rest). The hot side of the enclosure should
have temperatures between 89°F and 91°F while the cold side should range from 84°F and 87°F.
You can purchase a thermometer from Home Depot or Reptile Basics in the form of a digital
reader or a temperature gun (See below). Some breeders will choose to have a night drop of
about ten degrees during the breeding season to stimulate hormones for breeding, as you would
see in their natural environment. See controversy night drop. There are a few possible ways to
achieve the correct temperature in your snake’s enclosure. The most common you will see is use
of Flexwatt heat tape for under tank heating (UTH) or an overhead radiant source of heat. The
most common of the two you will see amongst breeders of ball pythons is the UTH, therefore we
will focus mainly on the use of UTHs in this manual because most breeders utilize rack systems
that only allow the use of Flexwatt, which gives breeders more direct control over the exact
temperature range in their snakes enclosure. Flexwatt must be hooked to an external thermostat.
Flexwatt has the capability of reaching temperatures over 150°F, which is a lethal
temperature for ball pythons, therefore you MUST regulate Flexwatt with an appropriate
thermostat!
Digital thermometer
Temperature gun
Flexwatt strip
Husbandry
There are several different thermostats to choose from to operate your rack system, here are the
three most common:

Herpstat

VE-300

Ranco
Both the Ranco and VE-300 thermostat can be purchased from Reptile Basics at
www.reptilebasics.com and the Herpstat can by purchased through Spyder Robotics at
www.spyderrobotics.com.
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How to Breed Ball Pythons
Humidity
Humidity should be kept between 50% and 60% and can be measured using a hygrometer
purchased from Amazon, Home Depot, or Reptile Basics. Humidity can be increased to 65%
while a snake is in shed. The rack systems hold humidity very well in comparison to the glass
tanks with screen tops because the water vapor escapes less easily due to a lessened air flow in
the enclosure. You can increase your humidity levels by misting the enclosure with a spray bottle
(this to you can get from any convenience store). Not enough humidity can lead to stuck shed,
which can lead to eye caps not being properly shed off and that can eventually lead to blindness.
Too much humidity can also be a health concern, creating fatal respiratory problems. A visible
indicator of to much humidity is water droplets forming on the sides of the enclosure, but this
problem can be easily fixed by drilling a small number of holes into the plastic walls of the
rack’s tubs.
Holes drilled to decrease humidity
Hygrometer
Substrate
Substrate choice is also important when breeding ball pythons. There is a wide variety to choose
from, but the two most common and efficient choices are paper towels and aspen/sani chips.
Warning: Never use cedar bedding in any animal enclosure, the fumes it will produce are
lethal to reptiles and small animals. Be sure to also avoid beddings that expand, because if
swallowed, they could rupture your snake’s intestines leading to death, see below. Paper towels,
though plain, provide a fast an easy daily cleaning for your snake’s enclosure while aspen can be
a little more time consuming. However, aspen can be spot cleaned and has been noted to not
allow spilled water to drench the entire enclosure like paper towels do. Aspen, if swallowed, is
also digestible in small doses for you snake. It also gives your snake the option to burrow for
security and temperature regulation purposes, if needed.
Husbandry
The two substrates above are examples of what not to use as substrate for
you snakes.
Aspen substrate is commonly used amongst
breeders.
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How to Breed Ball Pythons
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Choosing a Ball Python
Choosing a Ball Python
When it comes to choosing a ball python, it is important to understand that your pet ball python
may not be the greatest quality breeder ball python. If you are planning on breeding for
profitable purposes, please note that pet stores will generally only buy from specified sources
and not local breeders, and most people in the market for ball pythons will not be looking for
normal. A normal ball python is the classic ball python coloration you see in pet stores with A
Co-dominant coloration. Instead it is probably a wiser idea to look into breeding quality morphs
of ball pythons for sale. Many novice breeders make the mistake of buying the cheapest morph
they can find. In the long run this is a poor business decision and hurtful to the marketed ball
python gene pool. It is ALWAYS better to spend a little more cash for a better quality ball
python morph so you can breed higher quality snakes yourself. For example, just because you
have a pastel morph for sale doesn’t mean its genes reflect the morph the best it can, which
means it is less likely to be marketable. It is these types of snakes in the ball python breeder
community you see referred to as “dirty” or “brown outs” where as high quality morphs are often
referred to by breeders as “clean”.
Above is a normal ball python.
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How to Breed Ball Pythons
Here is a good side-by-side comparison of a dirty pastel (right)
versus a clean pastel (left). You can easily see the difference in
contrast of yellow.
Genes
Another important decision to think about when starting up your breeding program is what type
of genes do I want to work with? Generally it is a good idea for most beginners to start with one
or two gene animals because these are cheaper and easier to sell. Play around on
geneticwizard.com with different gene combinations to see what project you want to start with.
This is also a good resource on polishing up your knowledge on ball python genetics.
Size
Size also plays a big role when choosing your ball python. Adult ball pythons are more
expensive because they are closer to breeding weight than babies, and also reflect the quality of
their genes best because they have completed most of their growing. Baby ball pythons on the
other hand, though vibrant and cheaper, require more time and food to get them to the
appropriate breeding weights. Depending on the size and age of the baby it can take anywhere
from 1 to 3 years to have them breeding ready. By that time that beautiful bright pastel you
bought as a juvenile may have browned out terribly. There are key traits you will begin to look
for in baby ball pythons to avoid brown outs like that, but that comes with practice and exposure.
The next page you will see a breeder size ready female spider ball python.
Choosing a Ball Python
Above is a breeder size female spider ball
python weighing in at a little over 1500g.
Choosing a Reputable Breeder
Purchasing a snake from a reputable breeder is important too. Does the overall health of the
snake appear to check out well? (E.g. no stuck shed, signs of wheezing, any visual mutations,
etc.). Does the breeder know the information on the parents of that snake? Does he/she offer any
type of guarantee? Does he/she have available references from previous sales? Does he/she
specialize in breeding ball pythons only or do they mass breed several types of reptiles? Is their
knowledge of ball pythons sufficient? All of these are questions too consider when choosing a
source for purchasing your animal.
Fly Page for Chapter 3
Breeding Preparation and Process
Breeding Preparation and Process
Breeding Weights
Once you have chosen your ball pythons for breeding, you must have both your male and
females at appropriate breeding weights. Unlike most animals, breeding ball pythons depends on
size NOT age. The minimum weight for breeding a female ball python is 1200g and 500g for a
male, however it is recommended females be closer to 1500g and males be closer to 700g for
greatest breeding results. The bigger the snake = larger the clutch size. If you have purchased
baby/juvenile ball pythons it may take a couple of years to get them to the appropriate breeding
weights. It is important not to rush this process because you do not want to power feed your
animal, or in other words, feed them too much to fast to where their body weight is mostly fat
instead of lean muscle. A general guideline for bulking up your baby ball pythons is feeding
once every five days, and about once a week for adults.
Here is a sign of a power fed ball python. Note the white
spacing between the scales, this is a result of growing too
big too fast.
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How to Breed Ball Pythons
Temperature Drop
Once your ball pythons are at optimal breeding size, you can begin temperature drops to help
stimulate the follicles in the female by making her think that breeding season is on its way. Note:
There is controversy on whether or not to drop temperatures before breeding, see chapter
over controversy for more information. Temperature drops begin at the same time as
introduction, generally lowering the hot spot to 85 or 86 degrees where the ambient temperature
stays around 79°F or 80°F.
Introduction
Introduction does not have to happen during a specific time of the year, although most breeders
tend to begin temperature drops/initial introductions between October and December.
Introductions are continued between January and April, during these months you may begin to
raise the temperature by about 2 degrees once a week until you are back at your normal basking
temperatures. During this warm up phase, your male will become even more interested in your
female, and will begin refusing to feed, this is normal. Females may or may not continue to feed.
Pictured here is an introduction of albino male to normal
female. Take note that it does not matter whose enclosure
is used for introduction, but most breeders prefer to use
the females to reduce stress for her.
Breeding Preparation and Process
Copulation
Keep males and females together for 48 hours, keeping a careful watch for a successful lock
(copulation). Once your ball pythons have locked up, do not disturb them! This can be a long
process and you will know when it is complete because the female will generally coil herself
around the male, and their tails will no longer appear to be as obviously locked as they were. It is
very important to not over work your male ball python. Give him a 2-3 day break after every
introduction. Also note that it may take several tries (especially for first time breeding males) to
achieve a successful lock. It is also a good idea to play it safe after a lock and continue to
introduce your male several times to your female.
Above is a successful lock.
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After Successful Copulation
After Successful Copulation
Once your male has successfully locked with your female, you will see a change in behavior
with your female. This happens when females begin to grow follicles. They tend to seek the
cooler end of the cage and often wrap themselves around their water bowls. Females will begin
to build, which is when their follicles will begin to increase drastically in size, 6 weeks before
ovulation.
During this time (generally after the pre-ovulation shed), they will go through a drastic colour
change, which breeders refer to as “glowing”. The colour change is usually an intense lightening
from their normal appearance.
As time progresses, females will continue to build, developing a body swelling about two thirds
of the way down their body. This swell will continue to increase until ovulation has been
reached, which appears as though your female has had the largest meal of her life. Her area of
swelling is also much harder and her attitude may have changed drastically from you sweet pet to
your cranky pregnant female. At Ovulation it is roughly 1.5 months until she will lay her clutch.
Note the obvious size difference between the circled area
and the rest of the female’s body. This female is ovulating.
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How to Breed Ball Pythons
When they ovulate, their tail will look as though all the fat has been sucked out of it. It looks
very scrunched. Sometimes they will have a scrunched tail prior to ovulation without the body
swell, this is just part of the building process and referred to by breeders as “tail suck”.
Above is an example of “tail suck”
Shortly after ovulation, most females go into a pre-lay shed cycle. They usually shed 16 days
after, and it is from there the true count down begins. During this time it is especially important
to increase your humidity levels to about 65%-70% to assist with this shedding cycle. You may
begin to notice your female seeking additional humidity by soaking in her water dish at this time.
Ovulating female seeking additional humidity
After Successful Copulation
After ovulation and her pre-lay shed, your female will begin seeking the warmer side of her cage
and becoming more and more restless as her lay date comes closer. Once your female lays her
clutch, be very careful to remove her from her eggs, as she will be EXTREMELY protective
over them. Be sure upon removing her and her eggs to wash her body in a very diluted formula
of water and dish soap and to scrub her enclosure thoroughly. This will help get your female
back on her eating schedule faster because she no longer smells her eggs’ scents.
Female ball python protecting her clutch
Upon removal of the clutch, be sure to keep all eggs right side up. Mark the tops of the eggs with
a pen to note the right side up. Note: Eggs stick together, this is normal, do not try to pull
them apart! It is all right if one falls off on its own, but never force them apart, you will
tear the egg.
Above is a clutch of ball python eggs, marked right side up,
all stuck together except one that fell off on its own.
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Incubation and Hatchling Care
Incubation and Hatchling Care
Incubation Set Up
Once you have separated mother from her clutch, eggs must be incubated for roughly 2 months.
For incubation, in a plastic shoebox with a lid, use a vermiculite and perlite mixture, mixing in
enough water thoroughly, so that when squeezed in your hand, no water drips out and it clumps
together. It should fall apart when crumpled. Too wet or too dry will kill your eggs! Do not
drill ventilation holes in the shoebox, instead once a week open the lid to allow for air exchange.
Incubate eggs at a constant temperature of 89°F.
Eggs in a vermiculite/perlite and
water mixture for incubation
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How to Breed Ball Pythons
Candling
To check to see if an egg is fertile, you will need to preform a process called candling. To candle
an egg, turn off the lights and hold a flashlight up against the egg. A fertile egg has a series of
veins through part of the egg. Absence of veins means it is not fertile and it will soon deteriorate.
Infertile eggs are referred to as slugs.
Pictured left is a fertile egg being candled while the picture on the right shows
what a slug looks like when candled
Dimpling
About 3 weeks prior to hatching the eggs will start to sag and condensation will build up in the
container. The reason for this is that the eggs are actually warmer than the ambient temperature
in the incubator, due to the nearly developed hatchlings inside. As the eventual hatching date
grows closer, the eggs will dimple severely. They sink in and become very pliable and soft. It is
not to soon after that your eggs will then hatch.
Incubation and Hatchling Care
Ball python eggs dimpling
Hatching
Once your babies have hatched out, wash them off with water only and separate them into their
own tubs in a hatchling rack lined with paper towels. Wait 5-14 days for them to shed and then
sex them if you have not already done so. It is then you will offer them their first meal (a hopper
mouse or rat).
Ball pythons in the process of
hatching out of their eggs
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How to Breed Ball Pythons
If your hatchlings reject their first meal, this is a sign of stress/health problems. Add in hides or
crumpled newspaper to reduce space in their tub to help them feel less vulnerable, then try again
in 3-5 days. If the problem persists a trip to the vet will be needed for a force-feeding session.
After you get your hatchlings eating well, ENJOY THEM! Hold them and socialize them as
much as you can to get them acclimated to people. Continue to feed them regular meals until
there have successfully had 5-7 meals, then you can sell them and repeat the process.
Successful juvenile ball pythons after several months of
feeding, right before sale
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Controversy
Controversy
There is more than one way to breed ball pythons, the process in this manual is a good start for
the novice breeder. However as you gain more knowledge and experience you may begin to
tweak the breeding process for what works best for you. The temperature drop controversy is just
one of many in the ball python breeding world. Some breeders claim to have a higher clutch size
with a temperature drop than without, although this correlation has no definite causation. Take
note of the advice of other breeders, but trial and error will help you decide exactly how you
wish to establish your own breeding process.
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How to Breed Ball Pythons
Index
37
Index
cedar, 6
follicles, 18, 23
force-feeding, 32
glowing, 23
Husbandry, 3
Reference websites:
http://www.vmsherp.com/LCBreedingBalls.htm
http://ballpython.ca/gallery/breeding/
lock, 19
poikilothermic, 4
power feed, 17
tail suck, 24
thermostats, 5