NORTHERN ITALY CONCERT TOUR WITH THE TOCCATA TAHOE ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS IN APRIL, 2015 FOLLOWED BY A SHORT VACATION IN ANNECY, FRANCE By George and Suzanne Griffith, April 7 to April 23, 2015 “For lo, the winter is past, the rain(?) Is over and gone. The flowers appear on the earth, the time of singing has come----“ Song of Solomon 2:11-12 This is an account of our trip to cities in Northern Italy where we enjoyed, by bus, train and foot, taking part in and enjoying six concerts and visits to eleven cities and towns: Milan, Como, Bergamo, Bellagio, Garbagnate, Parma, Pisa, Lucca, Greti(or Greve), Florence and Venice. It was also an occasion to meet and be treated to a fancy dinner in Bergamo by old friends Giorgio and Lori Scanavacca. I had worked with and known Giorgio for 55 years. It was also an occasion to meet, during a concert in Lucca, and afterwards have the pleasure of good dinner, with Judy Philpott from Montreal, Canada. Judy and her husband Frank have spent summer vacations in our Cove House in Maine for over 40 years. On this Toccata concert tour, we were part of 62 other participants including 1)Maestro James Rawie and Nancy, 2)Elizabeth Pitcairn, with her red Stradivarius, who has appeared in Lincoln Center, Carnegie Hall, and previous tours in Asia and Europe and 3) Organist David Brock with a history of active recital schedule throughout the United States. We were also accompanied by 1)Stuart Duke, a bass soloist, founding member and soloist with the Vermont Symphony and Chorus, professor at the University of Nevada with appearances in various operas and foreign musical tours and 2) Anna Helwing, Soprano soloist, originally from Wroclaw, Poland. She has had solo performances in numerous local and foreign classical concerts and is Music Director for the Tahoe Community Choir. We had a balanced orchestra of fourteen members and a chorus of twenty plus some help from orchestra singers for our A Capella numbers. We were accompanied by 26 boosters, Toccata supporters, family members and those desiring a music/travel combo. Boosters contributed greatly to our tour success. Music Contact International, Burlington, Vermont arranged the schedule for the trip, provided a coach, hotel rooms and four dinners. They also provided good coach drivers and Trixi, a very effective, multilingual guide, from Turkey. April 8,9-MILAN After arrival at Milan Malpensa Airport by way of Madrid, we met Maestro James Rawie and Nancy and proceeded to our Hotel Idea on Napo Torriani, a short walk from the central train station. After checking in, we were joined for a wonderful inexpensive dinner at the next-door Osteria by Elizabeth Pitcairn and a few others who also came two days before the group flight. On this trip to Italy, food was a major pleasure and will be mentioned once or twice. Also, for our entire trip, we were blessed by beautiful warm spring days with an abundance of blooming trees and flowers. This concert tour was timed to start after Easter and be concluded before the MILAN EXPO, when Milan was scheduled to welcome 140 countries and 20 million visitors hosting this world’s fair commencing on May 1. On the following day after our arrival, we took the 3M (yellow) metro to the Piazza Duomo to visit the famous and most beautiful marble Duomo. (a Duomo is a cathedral that is the main site of the Bishop). The cathedral was started by Bishop Ambrose about the 4th century. The current structure is the result of over four hundred years of construction starting in the 1300s. Then we had a stroll through the Galleria and a visit to La Scala opera house. In the afternoon James and I took a taxi to Mokkes Backline Rental near Linate Airport where we rented a bass violin and two cellos. April 10, COMO, GARBAGNATE James, Nancy, Suzanne and I boarded the train(with our luggage) at the Central Station and took the less than an hour ride to the town of Como. Como, a most beautiful town, is located on the west side of Lake Como, a large Y-shaped lake surrounded by mountains and with a view of the Swiss Alps. People there reach other towns on the lake like Bellagio and Lecco most easily by ferry. We walked with our luggage down to the Duomo where we were welcomed by the Priest Saverio Xeres and his assistant Christina Cassina. We had met and spent time with them in 2013 when we had made an exploratory trip to Como, Parma and other places. The construction of this most beautiful Duomo in Como commenced in the 14th century. After stowing our luggage in a side room, they showed us the area where our Saturday evening concert was to take place and how to arrange our seating. Then they took us to an antique restaurant and hosted a fancy Italian dinner. Suzanne had, for her main course, Osso Bucco and I enjoyed perch filets. After they gave us a walking tour of Como; James and the Priest Saverio had a mile-long run and then we returned to the train station for our local trains to Garbagnate, where our hotel San Martino was located and where we would meet most of our group just arriving. Our first train was announced to be on track one. After waiting an hour past when it was due, no train came. It turned out to be on Track 1 (branch) line, a local train, that had left without us. We waited another hour for the next local, went to Molteno, changed trains and arrived at our hotel at 7 p.m. in time for an elaborate dinner arranged by MCI for our group of 62 plus guide. April 11, COMO, BELLAGIO After a ride on our double decked bus back to Como, Suzanne and I declined the city tour, found a copy shop and made 200 copies(very inadequate) of our Monday Parma concert program and had coffee in the Piazza Duomo before our 11-3 rehearsal in the Duomo di Como. After the rehearsal, we boarded our bus for a sight-seeing trip to Bellagio. To reach Bellagio at the middle of the y-shaped lake, the driver had to go up and down narrow roads with multiple hairpin curves so sharp that our bus had to stop and back-up to maneuver many of them. Bellagio, the famous lakeside home for movie stars, gave us an opportunity for a light dinner before returning to Como for our 9 p.m. concert. This concert, and others, follow the schedule in the attached picture. The large Duomo was nearly filled for our concert that lasted until almost 11 p.m. when we received a warm thanks from Saverio Xeres and Cristina Cassina, boarded the bus and returned to Garbagnate. April 12, BERGAMO We went to Bergamo where the bus left us in the lower city, Citti Basso. We took the funiculare up to Citti Alta(upper city). Suzanne and I walked across town where we were to meet Giorgio and Lori Scanavacca who had invited us to join them for un pranzo squisito, a delicious lunch, at Ristorante Marianni, a beautiful three level restaurant on the edge of the upper city. We went to the third floor where there was a garden with beautiful flowers and trees in bloom. They served us a special meal starting with tomato aspic and mozzarella cheese on lamb lettuce, followed by spaghetti with scampi, a pasta unique to Bergamo, followed by osso bucco and filet of sole, followed by a large bucket of gelato in a tub of ice, served with a tray of strawberries, raspberries, nuts, cherries and chocolate sauce. Then in the late afternoon, we went to the beautiful old Duomo for a hour and a quarter organ concert performed by David Brock. To introduce each number, the Priest asked Giorgio Scanavacca if he would sit on the stage and introduce each number in Italian. In addition to classical numbers, David played “The Weeping Willow Rag” by Scott Joplin, a lively addition. April 13, PARMA, FLORENCE Rising at 5:45 a.m., we left Garbagnate at 7:45, our coach arriving at 10:45 in Parma a few blocks from Piazza Duomo and the San Giovanni Abbey where we would have a mid-day concert staring at 11:30. We met Giovanna, choir-master and organist in the Abbey and her husband, Simone Campanini, Maestro at the Duomo next to the Abbey. The San Giovanni Abbey was founded in the 8th century, expanded in the 13th century and is still associated with a Monastery there. After a brief rehearsal by our chorus and also by David Brock on the organ, we were ready to begin our concert at 11:30. In addition to adults, we were amazed with the arrival of 550 elementary and high school children. Our concert there began with five memorized choral selections(with soloists David Brock and Anna Helwing), all music by American composers, followed by duets by Elizabeth Pitcairn(violin) and David Brock(organ). Other supporting instruments included violins, flute and oboe. The closing number with chorus and violins was “Choose Something Like a Star” by Randall Thompson. The huge Abbey was full including wings and standing room only. There was enthusiastic applause after each number by the young audience, that also enjoyed participating rhythm during “Elijah Rock”. Following the concert, our hosts, Giovanna and Simone, had arranged for a lunch at Trattoria Ronzoni, a few blocks away. It was more than a lunch, a feast with ample prosciutto and parmesan cheese, ravioli, etc, etc. After our meal, we journeyed to Florence to hotels Nazioni and Da Vinci after which we walked to a nearby restaurant, Il Portale, for our second group dinner. April 14, PISA, LUCCA, FLORENCE Carrying our concert attire, we went by our coach from Florence to a large tourist bus stop in Pisa. Pisa is a town a few miles from the Mediterranean and split by the Arno River. We walked past what seemed to be a quarter mile of a market of tent shops selling everything imaginable often at 25% of original asking price. Then both those on tour and others walked to the large grassy “Field of Miracles” containing the Leaning Tower, Duomo, museum, Baptistry and ancient cemetery. Then having lunch, we went by our coach to Lucca for our evening concert. Lucca is an ancient city, former home of famous composers Giacomo Puccini, Dorati, Boccherini and composer/violinist Paganini. Lucca is a fortress city, a Roman colony in 180 B.C., now surrounded by a two and a half mile Renaissance wall for the past 2000 years. The bus parked at the wall surrounding Lucca, and with our concert clothing, we walked to the church , Santa Maria Corteorlandini, for our rehearsal. After our two hour rehearsal, we had two hours to walk through then village and have some dinner. Some, such as Maestro Rawie and Nancy, rented bikes for a ride around the top of the wall. The two-hour concert began at 9 p.m. and at a break, the host maestro/choir director presented his choir to perform for us as appreciation for our visit. At the conclusion of their music, his choir joined our Toccata group to sing Mozart’s “Ave Verum Corpus”. Then the Toccata group proceeded with organ/violin duets, and closed with “Choose something like a star” with Elizabeth Pitcairn and others. At the short break, their choir leader thanked Toccata for the concert and the United States for bringing them freedom in World War Two even at a cost of many American lives. He said when he was a boy, an American soldier gave him a candy bar. For the last 40 years or more, a lady, Judy Philpott and her family from Montreal, Canada have rented our condominium in Kennebunk Beach, Maine. We had mentioned our Toccata concert tour and its venues in a Christmas card. As our concert was getting underway that night at 9 p.m., in walked Judy Philpott from Montreal and two of her friends, Julian Pitt and Denbigh Sale, from Sidney, Australia. What a surprise! The concert attracted a full crowd. Suzanne checked her Fitbit and found that we had walked over 7 ½ miles that day. April 15, FLORENCE, VERRAZZANO CASTLE AND WINERY This was a free day and many had signed up for a city tour or visit to the Uffizi Museum. I had heard a strong recommendation for the Verrazzano Castle and Winery near the town of Greti, in Chianti country, south of Florence about half-way to Siena. After a tour company, Ciao Florence Tours and Travels, was contacted and a bus reserved, twenty people accepted the event and we left at 10 a.m. for the Castle and Winery, after which the Verrazzano Bridge in New York City was named. It was a beautiful ride on a small narrow road. We arrived at 11 a.m. and were met by a jovial and enthusiastic guide, who gave us some history of the castle and winery. He said grapes had been grown there for 2600 years on that vast acreage. When the Verrazzano Castle was built, they found grapes were growing high on surrounding trees. In addition to sampling, a fancy lunch was served. I chose a plate of shredded cabbage surrounded by prosciutto and other meats. Suzanne had a vegetarian plate with tomato tapenade, olive tapenade, bruschetta, spinach quiche squares, potato frittata, carmelized onions, and other. My plate had generous servings of pancetta, prosciutto, shredded cabbage and salame. Both dishes are shown in the photos. Our Verrazzano guide liked to sing, so Maestro James responded by assembling our small chorus and with soloist Stuart Duke, we sang “Walk Down That Lonesome Road”. That night, back in Florence, Suzanne and I walked across the Arno River to dinner (including pear ravioli) hosted by Judy Philpott from Montreal, joined by our soloist Anna Helwing, and our two new Australian friends. April 16, FLORENCE We, and probably many others who were not enjoying a visit to Accademia Galleria, walked the fair distance to the Arno River and the Ponte Vecchio Bridge with, stops for gelato. Then we returned to the hotels to dress for the 1:30 rehearsal and concert at 4:30. Then we took the long walk to Santa Maria de’ Ricci, a catholic place of worship founded in 1508. The acoustics were good and the orchestra/chorus concert was said to be among the best, to a pretty-full house. The church was on a busy street where a number of people heard music and added to the audience, leaving only standing room. After the concert, the tour group returned to the hotel by way of several outdoor restaurants. April 17, VENICE After returning the rented stringed instruments to Mokkes Rental, we boarded the bus and struck out for Venice-Mestre, a suburb of Venice on the mainland. The first half of the trip was through mountains and valleys, before landscape changing to flat green fields approaching Venice. After arriving at Hotel Venezia in Mestre, we took the #4 bus over the causeway into Piazzella Roma on the island of Venice. Then we boarded the Vaporetto(water bus) went past the Rialto Bridge, L’Accademia, etc. to San Marco where we disembarked, had a tour or just had refreshment near St. Mark’s Square, then returned to the hotel and walked to Officina del Gusto for a group welcome dinner. April 18, VENICE In the morning, instead of the formal wear worn for other concerts, we donned our Toccata polo-type shirts and left for the day on Venice island and the 6:45 Mass at San Marco. On the Grand Canal, from the vaparetto, we had a view of Doge’s Palace. We have an old painting of that acquired ages ago. Upon arrival at our port, Instead of tours, Suzanne and I, and others, had coffee and hot chocolate, nearly thick as pudding, with the pigeons in the large Piazza San Marco. We, then, saw a theatre featuring a performance of (native) Vivaldi Four Seasons. (The Vivaldi Winter Season had been performed on some our concerts by Elizabeth Pitcairn on her 1700’s Stradivarius; she said it was happy to be back in Italy). We then walked to the shops on the Rialto Bridge over the Grand Canal, had lunch and returned to Piazza San Marco and a late afternoon rehearsal in a passage at St. Marks Basilica(and cathedral). St. Mark’s , full of statues and domes, also contains the coffin and remains of Mark, author of one of the gospels. His remains were spirited away from Alexandria in 828 A.D. and brought to Venice. St. Mark’s was rebuilt in 1063. In addition to worship centers the church is filled with beautiful mosaics, with magnificent scenes from both Old and New Testaments. It contains a choir loft used by the choir for whom native-born Giovanni Gabrielli, principal organist, wrote music in the 1500’s. The Toccata Choir took part in the 6:45 Mass singing four memorized pieces including Mozart “Ave Verum Corpus” and ending with “Choose Something Like a Star” accompanied on the violin by Louis Steptoe. Before our return from the island, Music Contact hosted a farewell dinner at Ristorante Cantina Canaletto. I was pleased and surprised to be presented, by James and Nancy, a fancy apron decorated with the signatures of group members. We said goodbye, since the group, except for a few stragglers, were scheduled to leave early to return home. FINALE April 19, MILAN We stragglers, Suzanne and I, took the tram to the Mestre station for the train to Milan, and for a repose and restoration, checked in to the Berna Hotel, near the train station on Napo Torriani, and known for its most outstanding breakfast. We later enjoyed a final Italian dinner nearby at Osteria Fara, on Via Gustavo Fara. April 20, ANNECY, FRANCE We boarded a fast train at the Garibaldi Station, heading for Annecy, with a train change in Aix-lesBains. All the way, we travelled in lush green valleys surrounded with snow covered mountain peaks and through many tunnels and by way of many alpine villages, rivers and streams Arriving in Annecy about 2 p.m., we went a few blocks to ICONE Hotel, a location next to the promenade along one of Annecy canals, fed by the Annecy Lake, a lake very clear being fed from long rivers from melting glaciers. Around the corner from our small hotel(less than $100/day) was the narrow street St. Claire, entered from a 16th century arch, that led by dozens of cafes and shops to Lac d’Annecy. In Annecy, they have discovered evidence of the first human groups that occupied the area in 4000 B.C. Located in the mountainous area of Savoy, it was part of Italy until it was given to Napoleon in the 1800s. Annecy, a short distance from Geneva, is also the home to colleges and many young families. The lake feeds canals with arched bridges reminiscent to Venice. Bordering the lake was a huge park called “European Garden” with dozens of huge and different deciduous and evergreen trees from different regions with canopies high from the ground, quite healthy being almost surrounded by water. Buildings in the old part of town where we stayed, are extremely old. Elsewhere, the city has grown quite large with new industry. After three days, we boarded an express bus for the gare or train station in Geneva where we took a city bus to the airport by way of the United Nations ITU building where I spent about a year working in 1983, 1984. Geneva, surrounded by the Savoy Alps and a view of Mont Blanc, the home of Calvin and Knox, and the source of the Rhone River, has grown much with modern trams and building expansion. My favorite restaurant from 1983, Café d’ Paris, on Rue d’ Mont Blanc, is still there. We returned home by way of Frankfurt and Denver. George