[Photo filenames are included in the article with captions, formatted in Italics like
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Escape to Zambales’ Coves a Few Hours from Manila
By Jenna V. Genio
The Philippines is a Southeast Asian destination for travelers looking for
getaways of the tropical sort. Sprawling with beaches and thousands upon
thousands of islands, it is an ideal escape for the budget conscious. Zambales is
only a few hours from the gateway capital of Metro Manila, and it boasts a unique
coastal scenery that is relatively remote and hard to forget.
[PHOTO 1-costaline.jpg // Caption: The coastline of Zambales is surreal. It may
take time for the mind to really register.
Pundaquit Beach on the western coast is roughly 4 hours from Manila. Its access
road is off of the town of San Antonio along the national highway, just past the
old American-occupied areas of Subic and Olongapo. Pundaquit serves as a
popular jump-off point for travelers seeking to explore Zambales. Many boat
operators park there and will whisk tourists away to beach hop and visit islands
for $35-$55 USD depending on the itinerary. Going out on the water with one of
them is imperative. Just following the coastline on outriggers is a visual
experience in itself. The distinct lack of trees is stark in contrast to the
rainforests and jungles that dominate the usual Philippine scene. The volcanic
mountains end abruptly against the sea. Their jagged shapes are haunting, bare,
and blanketed with grass.
[PHOTO 2-capones.jpg // Caption: The Spanish colonial lighthouse on Capones
Islan is in ruins, and nature is taking it back.]
A couple of islands can be reached by boat. One of them is Camara Island, known
for its rock formations, boulders, and a sandbar that separates its two sides. The
sandbar is only accessible during low tide. Another popular one is Capones
Island, home to the ruins of a Spanish-built lighthouse dating back to 1890. When
the easy-access stairs are deemed too dangerous due to falling stones, a rocky
hike through the Philippine Navy outpost is necessary. A working solar-powered
light replaced the original lamp at the top of the lighthouse tower for the original
purpose of guiding seafarers to Subic Bay. The facility is in sorrowful condition,
but makes for a beautifully derelict setting. Empty rooms surrounded by
crumbling walls are littered with shards of sheet metal, so walking through them
without covered shoes isn’t recommended… But the overgrowth is ethereal.
Trees and vines reaching through the floor, roof, and walls show nature’s claim
on the property. Iron gates, red brick, arched windows, and handsome tiles make
it easy to imagine the glory of the lighthouse’s past.
[3-nagsasacove.jpg // Caption: Nagsasa Cove is one of the beaches scattered along
the Zambales coast. Most coves boast the combination of volcanic sand,
surrounding mountains, and forests of pine-like casuarina right on the beach.]
To the North of Pundaquit beach are San Felipe and San Narciso, which are
popular targets for surfers seeking to chase the waves of the South China Sea,
without having to venture farther from the capital. A little to the south are coves
trimmed with volcanic sand, embraced and shielded by imposing mountains, and
coated with curious pine-like trees proposed to be casuarina. These trees
provide shade for visitors, as well as an odd juxtaposition for those expecting to
find tropical beaches strewn with coconut palms. The beach-forest phenomenon
boggles locals as well, and is the young result of 1991’s eruption of Mt.Pinatubo,
which changed the geological conditions allowing the new type of foliage to
grow. Approaching one of these coves on a boat is a sight to behold. Looking
around at your surroundings after landing is just as breathtaking.
[PHOTO 4-hiking.jpg // Caption: When hiking around Zambales, stay hydrated and
be prepared for constant sun exposure due to the lack of shade.]
There are several major coves to consider in Zambales like Silanguin,
Anawangin, and Nagsasa. They were similarly formed by volcanic activity,
peppered with trees, and shielded by grassy mountains. The mountains make for
good trekking, hiking, and casual exploration. For the particularly venturesome,
the coves can be reached from inland by traversing Mt. Dayungan, Mt.
Balingkilat, Mt. Cinco Picos, and Mt. Nagsasa. The jump-off is situated in Sitio San
Martin, Subic and the journeys can be made in a day or more. These ranges also
create waterfalls. For those getting to the beach by boat, climbing up the sides of
the coves and walking around the edges yield great panoramas and lead to
smaller secluded beaches. For anyone setting out to walk around the grassy hills,
prepare for long exposure to the sun since shade is virtually nonexistent, but
views are unobstructed.
[PHOTO 5-camping.jpg // Caption: The best way to experience Zambales is to
camp, rather than staying at a hotel. Those without tents can easily rent.]
To spend the night, an alternative to a resort or hotel would be camping, easy
even for those without equipment. The locals Aetas open their arms to tourists
with a plethora of tents for cheap rent. The experience offers more support than
completely roughing it, but it definitely isn’t as convenient as glamping. A night’s
stay can be booked back at Pundaquit Beach, with the help of an organization or
the advice of boatmen. The locals do not rent sleeping bags or offer much in their
improvised shops; prepare by a bringing a sleeping bag or pillows and blankets,
flashlights, batteries, toiletries, cooking ware, and food. Many of these things can
be purchased at the market back in San Antonio. Drinking water, coal, and
firewood can be arranged with the local host you choose to approach.
Remember, they do have supplies for sale at the coves, but options are few. Do
not haggle with the Aetas and tip them well; they are the caretakers of their land.
If the weather is right, sleeping out in the open in one of their ‘nipa huts’ or
bringing a hammock can be pleasant. Just prepare for a possibly cold dawn. At
the coves, there is neither electricity nor signal. Phones will only be good for
taking photos. A glowing campfire on the beach is a recommended way to end
the night. Dozing off under a canopy of fragrant pine needles with sand
underneath and seawater only a few feet away is surreal, while starts litter the
sky.