Part I Stocks
Definition
A flavorful liquid obtained by simmering bones with a mirepoix for a certain time period.
A stock is a flavour base for making soups and sauces, water could be used but the end
result would be flat and bland. It is like painting; the background is always done first
giving you a good base to build on, then the other parts of the painting are added resulting
in a complex beautiful deep picture.
Terms
These are some of the more common terms used when making stocks.
o
o
o
o
Bouquet garni - herbs and vegetables wrapped together, and tied
Sachet- spices and herbs wrapped in cheese cloth and tied
Mirepoix- a mixture of vegetables that aid in flavoring a stock.
Gelatin- a mixture of proteins extracted from boiling bones. It forms a jelly like
substance used as a thickener in the food industry.
o Court bouillon- simmering vegetables in water with an acid (lemon and clam
juice) used to poach fish…
o Glaze – is the reduction and concentration of a stock. Glace de viande is the most
commonly used term which is simply a reduced brown stock until it is dark and
thick (will coat the back of a spoon)
Types of Stocks
White Stock
Simmering chicken, veal and beef bones with the mirepoix for the required time, this
produces a very light coloured stock.
Brown Stock
Chicken, veal, beef, and game bones that are roasted too obtain a deep rich colour. These
bones are then simmered with black peppercorns, bay leaves, and thyme for the required
time. This produces a very deep brown, very roasted flavourful liquid.
When making a brown or white stock your bones should be relatively clean of
meat and fat. Extra amounts of fat on the bones will result in you skimming the stock
more often which disturbs the bones and could lead to a cloudy stock. Leaving extra meat
on the bones is purely a waste of money. The meat will cook off the bones and end up
being discarded and not used.
Fish stock
Sweating aromatic vegetables, adding lean white fish bones; mirepoix and simmering.
Vegetable stock
Celery, carrots, onions or leeks with black peppercorns, bay leaves, and thyme are your
basic vegetables for this type of stock. Again if you’re making cauliflower soup then you
can add cauliflower to your stock to help that base flavour.
Not all vegetables are suitable for making a stock which is to be used to lay a
foundation of flavour, for some have overpowering flavours, such as turnip, fennel,
peppers. Others will impart a bitter flavour, like cabbage, and some will affect colour,
like beets. Certain root vegetables, such as potatoes, will release starch, which clouds the
final product. The following vegetables are suitable to use as flavouring vegetables;
carrots, celery, celeriac, mushrooms, garlic, leeks, onions, shallots, and tomatoes.
Chart 1.1
Type of Stock
Chicken
Mirepoix & Sachet
Carrots, celery,
onion, peppercorns,
bay leaves, thyme,
and parsley stems
Simmering Time
3 to 4 hrs
Variations
Can add leeks or
remove carrots for a
truer white stock.
Roasting the bones
provides a deeper
flavour and colour
Beef
Carrots, celery,
onion, peppercorns,
bay leaves, thyme,
tomato and parsley
stems
Celery, onion,
peppercorns, bay
leaves, thyme, and
parsley stems
Carrots, celery,
onion, peppercorns,
bay leaves, thyme,
and parsley stems
6 to 8 hrs
Can add leeks.
Roasting the bones
provides a deeper
flavour and colour.
Fish
Vegetable
30 to 40 min
Can add leeks.
30 to 40 min
If making a certain
soup the stock could
be flavoured with
that vegetable.
Preparing a Stock
Start the stock in cold water
Add the bones to the pot and cover by a few inches with cold water. Cold water should
always be used as it will draw out impurities and dissolve them. As the water heats up
these impurities coagulate and then can be skimmed off the surface. If the water level
drops below the bones during cooking add water to cover them.
Simmer the stock gently
All stocks should be brought to a quick boil and then reduced to a simmering temperature
of 85°C. Simmering will maintain as nice clear stock and allow the ingredients to release
their flavours and blend with the liquid. Excessive boiling will cause impurities (fat and
blood) to blend with the liquid causing a cloudy stock.
Skimming frequently
Removing the impurities that rise to the surface; fats, blood.
Adding mirepoix and herbs
Adding these ingredients with a few hours left in the cooking time will allow the flavours
to be release but not overcooked and muddled. Salt should not be added to a stock for a
few reasons; as the stock simmers it is naturally reducing which if salted could lead to a
salty finished stock. If the stock is going to be reduced as with glace de viande then it will
be so salty that it would not be fit for use.
Straining the stock
Now that the stock is cooked you must remove the liquid from the pot without disturbing
the bones. If using a proper stock pot which will have a spigot at the bottom your fine but
with a standard pot there a few simple procedure to follow;
a. skim as much of the impurities off the top as possible
b. using a large ladle, ladle the stock into a strainer lined with several layers of
cheesecloth
c. DO NOT STIR THE STOCK
Storing
Most stocks are made and then stored for later use, so great care must be taken as to not
promote bacterial growth or souring (going bad).
a. place the stock in a clean container
b. placing the container on a rack and in the sink ¼ way filled with cold water
will help bring down the temperature quicker (remember the Danger Zone)
c. stir the stock frequently which will circulate the cold with the hot
d. once cooled store the stock in the fridge covered for 1 week or frozen for
several months.
e. if a layer of fat forms on the surface just remove this before using
f. home stocks can be stored in multiple small plastic containers or frozen in ice
cube trays and then stored in Ziploc bags for latter use.
In the industry there are specific sinks built for the purpose of cooling food items
that are in pots. These sinks have a perforated rack on the bottom which the pot sits on
and a overflow pipe in the drain. As the sink fills up the water is able to circulate under
and around the pot. But never overflows because of the height of the overflow pipe which
should be lower then the pot in the sink and also lower then the edge of the sink.
If cooling at home watch how much water goes into your sink if the ratio of water is
greater then the weight of the pot then the pot will float and could tip and then everything
is wasted.
Characteristics of Stocks
Body
Obtained by dissolving meat proteins in water.
Flavor
Obtained by using a mirepoix, spices and herbs. Roasting bones will help build flavour.
Certain vegetables and herbs will add different flavors so be careful of what you add.
Clarity
Obtained by removing impurities through blanching or by skimming. Skimming is
removing the foam that forms on the surface of the stock. Chicken, more than other
bones, are blanched (brought up to a boil) rinsed in cleaned cold water and then used to
make a stock. This blanching helps remove the blood which will make your stock cloudy.
Colour
Certain vegetables like carrots and tomatoes will colour your stock. Be careful when
using these ingredients if making a white stock. Roasting the bones will give you a nice
deep rich colour. Your final product should be determining which type of stock you are
making.
Commercial Bases
Commercially produced flavour bases are widely used in food service operations.
They are powdered or dehydrated flavourings added to water to create stocks or when
used in smaller amounts to enhance the flavour of sauces and soups. Although inferior to
well made stocks, flavour bases do reduce the labour involved in the production of
stocks, sauces and soups. Used properly they ensure a consistent product.
Bases very greatly in quality and price. Sodium (salt) is the main ingredient in
most inexpensive bases. Better bases are made primarily of meat, poultry or fish extracts.
To judge the quality of a flavour base, prepare it according to the package instructions
and compare the flavour with that of a well made stock. A base can be improved with the
addition of a mirepoix and a few bones and then simmered for a few hours. This can cut
down on the cost and storing of large quantities of bones.
Part II Sauces
Definition
With a few exceptions a sauce is defined; as a liquid plus thickening agent plus
seasoning.
Sauces are not normally consumed by themselves; they add flavor, moisture, and visual
appeal to another dish. Sauce is a French word taken from the Latin salsus, meaning
salted. Sauces need a liquid component, but some sauces (for example, pico de gallo
salsa or chutney) may contain more solid elements than liquid. Sauces are an essential
element in cuisines all over the world.
Sauces may be ready made sauces, usually bought, such as soy sauce, or freshly prepared
by the cook; such as Béchamel sauce, which is generally made just before serving.
Sauces for salads are called salad dressing. Sauces made by deglazing a pan are called
pan sauces.
Tips to make a good sauce:
1. make a good stock
2. use thickening agents and/or techniques properly to achieve the desired texture,
flavour and appearance
3. use seasonings properly to achieve the desired flavours.
Classification of Sauces
Classic hot sauces are divided into two main groups; basic or leading sauces and
derivative or small sauces. The 5 leading sauces (mother sauces) are:
1. Béchamel
2. Veloute
3. Espagnole (brown)
4. Tomato
5. Hollandaise
From these leading sauces come most of our small sauces that are used in the cooking
industry.
Thickening Agents
Most sauces are thickened by the gelatinization of starches (the swelling of starch
granules which absorbs the liquid). As the moisture is absorbed the product thickens.
Products used to thicken sauces are;
Cornstarch (slurry)
A very fine white powder obtained from various species of corn. Products thickened with
cornstarch have a glossy sheen which may or may not be desirable. Cornstarch will
thicken twice its amount in liquid (1 tbsp cornstarch will thicken 2 tbsp liquid).
Cornstarch must be mixed with liquid before it is used.
Flour
A fine white powder obtained from the grinding of wheat kernels. Flour mixed with fat is
used to create a roux or when mixed with butter creates a beurre manie.
Arrow root
Comes from the roots of several tropical plants, it is similar to cornstarch but produces a
clearer finished product and does not break down as fast.
Roux
A roux is probably the most used thickener in the kitchen and by far provides the most
flavour. A roux is equal parts by weight flour and fat cooked together to form a paste.
Cooking the flour with the fat coats the starch granules with the fat and prevents them
from lumping together when being incorporated into the liquid.
How to Use a Roux
Depending on what you are making you will need to decide what strength of a roux you
will require. Once this is determined you will sauté your ingredient/ingredients in the
required amount of butter. The flour will then be added and completely incorporated into
the butter to form a paste. The hot liquid is then added in stages and completely
incorporated until the next amount of liquid is added. By doing it this way you prevent
any lumps forming, if you add the liquid all at once there is a good chance that you will
end up with little lumps of flour that you will not be able to get rid of.
There are 3 types of roux;
White roux- cooked only briefly and should be removed from the heat as soon as it starts
to bubble.
Blond roux- cooked slightly longer and takes on a blond colour because of
caramelization.
Brown roux- cooked until it develops a darker colour and a nutty aroma and flavour.
Because it is cooked longer brown roux has less thickening power then the other two.
Proportions of Roux to Liquid
Flour
3 oz
4 oz
6 oz
+
Butter
3 oz
4 oz
6 oz
=
Roux
6 oz
8 oz
12 oz
+
Liquid (hot)
2 lit
2 lit
2 lit
=
Sauce
Light
Medium
Heavy
These numbers might vary a bit so you will have to adjust your amounts to suit your recipe.
Beurre Manie
A mixture of equal parts of flour and soft whole butter kneaded together until smooth.
This dough gets formed into pea size balls and then whisked into your liquid. If any
lumps occur straining the thickened liquid before adding any other ingredients will
remove them.
* It is important to remember that when using either a roux or buerre mania that the
thickened liquid must be simmered for 20 to 30 minutes to cook out the starchy flavour of
the flour.
The 5 Leading (Mother) Sauces
Tomato Sauce
Classic tomato sauce is made from tomatoes, vegetables, seasonings, white stock and
thickened with a blond or brown roux. In today’s kitchens, most tomato sauces are a
puree of simmered tomatoes, herbs, spices, vegetables and other flavouring ingredients.
A proper made tomato sauce is thick, rich and full-flavour. Because it is a pureed sauce,
its texture is somewhat coarser then other basic sauces. The sauce should have balanced
flavour and not be bitter, acidic or overly sweet. It should have a deep red colour and
thick enough to cling to the back of a spoon.
Hollandaise
Hollandaise and the derivative sauces made from it are emulsified sauces. Egg yolks
which contain large amounts of lecithin, a natural emulsifier, are used to emulsify warm
butter and a small amount of water, lemon juice or vinegar. By vigoursly whipping the
egg yolks with the liquid over heat to form a soft foam, then whipping in the clarified
butter, the lecithin coats the individual droplets and holds them in suspension in the
liquid.
If your sauce breaks it will appear; thin, grainy or lumpy. A sauce breaks when the
emulsion has not formed or the emulsified butter, eggs and liquid have separated. The
reasons for this could be any one of the following;
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
temperature of eggs or butter were too high or too low
the butter added to quickly
the egg yolks were overcooked
too much butter had been added
sauce was not whipped vigorously enough
It can be fixed though by determining what caused the separation. If the eggs were
overcooked you have to start again. If it was too cold, warm it up and whipping it again
could bring it back.
Milk (Bechamel)
Named for its creator, Louis de Béchemal (1630 – 1703) is one of the easiest basic
sauces. The original verson had cream being added to a veal volute, while some chefs
believe this to still be the only way. The sauce today is mainly made by scalding milk
with an onion stuck with cloves then thickening it with white roux and seasonings. A
properly made béchemal should be smooth with no lumps.
Chicken, Fish and Veal Volute
Volutes are made from thickening a chicken, fish or veal stock with a roux or beurre
manie. This volute should be rich, smooth and lump free. If made from fish or chicken
the volute should taste like them if made from veal it should have more of a neutral
flavour. The sauce should be ivory coloured with a deep rich luster and thick enough to
coat the back of a spoon.
Brown Stock (Espagnole)
This is a basic sauce made from a brown stock, mirepoix and tomatoes thickened with a
brown roux.
If you combine espagnole sauce and brown stock, equal portions of each and then reduce
this by half, a demi- glace has been made. A demi glace should be rich, smooth and
lump-free. Its prominent roasted flavour comes from the bones used from the brown
stock. The caramelized bones, mirepoix as well as the tomato contribute to the glossy
dark brown, almost chocolate colour. It should be thick enough to coat the back of a
spoon.
Other Types of Sauces
Jus and Pan Gravy
Drippings in roasting pans are used to make a number of sauces to be served with the
roasted meat. They are lighter in texture and body than a demi-glace but have the
distinctive flavour of the caramelized drippings.
Jus lie
A sauce made by thickening brown stock with cornstarch
Pan gravy
A sauce made by deglazing pan drippings from roast meat or poultry with stock, wine or
water and combining them with a roux
Beurre Blanc and Beurre Rouge (Butter sauces)
Are sauces that do not use eggs but use a reduction of white or red wine emulsified with
small chunks of cold butter to create a sauce. The technique for creating this sauce is to
reduce your vinegar and shallots in a pan and then whisk in cold butter. Do not let the
temperature get too hot or the proteins will break down and the sauce will separate.
Compound Butters
These are created by incorporating different flavours and seasonings into soft whole
butter, forming the butter letting it cool.
Coulis
These are created by pureeing fruits and vegetables down into a thin consistency.
Salsa, Relish and Chutneys
Although not members or the classic sauce family the following can be used as sauces
with many meats, seafood and vegetable dishes. They can include many different fruit
and vegetables such as oranges, pineapple, papaya, black beans, jicama and tomatillos.
Salsa (Spanish for “sauce”) is most commonly known as a chunky mixture of raw
tomato, other vegetables, chilies and cilantro, eaten with chips or ladled over Mexican
foods.
Relish is most commonly known as a sweet green condiment spooned on a hotdog.
Chutneys are known as a condiment served with curries.
Questions to be answered from part I and II
Read through the notes on stocks and answer the following questions. When you have
completed the questions print them out and put them in your binder.
1. What are the proper times for simmering the 4 different types of stocks?
2. What is the importance of using cold water for a stock?
3. What is the definition of a stock?
4. What bones can be used to make a brown stock, and how does the stock become
brown?
5. What are the 4 characteristics of a stock and explain to me (in your own words) how
these are important when using the stock to make another product?
6. How can you make an inferior quality commercial base better?
7. What vegetables are used to create a mirepoix?
8. Using your incredible research skills (meaning you will have to use the internet) where
does the term “mirepoix” come from?
9. What are the 4 basic stocks used in cooking?
10. What do impurities do to a stock?
11. Why is it important to gently simmer a stock instead of boiling it?
12. What are the important points to remember when storing stocks?
13. If you were making a stock to make cauliflower soup, would it be ok to add some
cauliflower to your stock?
14. What are the 3 tips for making a good sauce?
15. What are the 3 different types of roux?
16. Using the website Wikipedia what are the 5 mother sauces and how are they created?
17. When you’re reading up on the 5 mother sauces you will come across a gentleman by
the name of Auguste Escoffier, who is this man and what was his contribution to the
history of cooking?
18. What ingredients are used to make a roux and a buerre mania?
19. What is the purpose of a sauce?
20 Using your research skills list and describe 2 sauces from 4 different countries?
21. What is a volute?