Museum of St. Dymphna – The Conversation William Stride January, 2008 . In the evening of our arrival day in Gheel, Belgium my sister and I paid a visit to the Museum of Saint Dymphna. We arrived at the museum on foot, after dark; we fought fierce winds and pelting rain all the way there. A friendly woman at the front desk explained all about the museum and what was in it. I must admit I didn’t expect to find anything interesting there but I was wrong. Both my sister and I moved on through the museum and became quickly separated. In the many rooms there were reconstructed kitchens, libraries, exam rooms and many artifacts from several hundred of years of medical and psychiatric care. I came across a metal framed bed with leather restraints anchored to the side rails. I was saddened to know that they too had to resort to restraints. Suddenly I heard the far off voice of a woman singing. Her voice was so pure and angelic I thought that there might be a church service going on somewhere at the other end of the museum. I walked down the hall only to come face to face with a stereo 1 Museum of St. Dymphna – The Conversation speaker that was bolted to the wall up near the ceiling. I was disappointed to have been fooled by a CD player. I continued moving through the museum. Finally I reached the far wing of the museum where there was a large room devoted only to Dymphna. The first thing my eyes fell upon were two almost life size ceramic statues depicting the beheading of Dymphna at the hands of her father. I was startled by the sight of her kneeling in prayer as the sword came down on the back of her neck. This was not the picture of a typical beheading, not the one I imagined; the highly religious tone of this scene changed my whole feeling about the legend of Dymphna. At that point I realized I was not alone. There was a teenage girl standing against the wall, silent and motionless with her gaze directed at the floor. She seemed to be in some sort of meditation. I decided not to disturb her and began moving around the room looking at the different pieces of artwork and artifacts. In the center of the room I came to a solid silver model of a cathedral that was about half the size of a bath tub. As I examined it, the presence of my silent neighbor became stronger and stronger. I could no longer ignore her so I spoke. “What is this?” I asked. “That is a shrine made to honor Dymphna; they sold it during the war and then bought it back afterwards . . . They never should have sold it” “Did they bring a curse upon themselves?” “No, but they never should have sold it” I asked her something else and her reply for the third time was “They never should have sold it” 2 Museum of St. Dymphna – The Conversation I asked her about life at the hospital. She left her spot on the wall and came over to where I was standing. “Back then they thought that the illness was due to not being right with God. The patients were made to pray every day for hours” I thought about people I knew in Boston and how when crisis had struck their lives they had naturally and without external direction turned to prayer. I thought of the Harvard professor William James’s bold accounts of people being healed through miraculous experiences. There was no doubt in my mind that prayers are answered or that miraculous healings occur. I said “I have had some religious experiences before and during this trip” “Oh, I don’t have religious experiences, I am too young” From the way she spoke I sensed that she was someone who had a deep yearning for that rite of passage into the spiritual realm via a religious experience. “So Dymphna showed such great strength in the face of death she became a saint?” “In those days it was a disgrace for a woman to marry her father” I thought her statement to be too soft and off the mark “It’s worse than that, it’s sick, he was a very sick man!” She accepted my correction. 3 Museum of St. Dymphna – The Conversation As she stood before me the light was very bright. She had red hair, brown eyes and was much shorter than me. I thought that she must be about fourteen or fifteen years old. I was more than old enough to be her father. There I was, on a dark stormy night in the far wing of an otherwise deserted museum night alone with a teenage girl in the room devoted to Dymphna. It crossed my mind that this situation seemed like some kind of divine test and I became a little fearful. I prayed that any carnal desires be quelled for the remainder of the conversation. Suddenly it seemed that we were standing too close to each other and there was an unharmonious tension. I looked over at the ceramic statues at the entrance of the room; the ones depicting the beheading of Dymphna. I said “What’s this?” and motioned in the direction of the statues. The statue of Dymphna had her gown trailing several feet behind her and out of the folds a gargoyle was emerging. I pointed at the gargoyle and asked: “What’s that?” “That’s the devil” “What is he doing right now?” She broke into convulsive laughter and with a big smile on her face replied “He’s looking at us!” “Exactly. . .” “I see gargoyles in nearly all of the art dedicated to Dymphna, what do they mean?” “Where there is a gargoyle present it represents a dark moment . . . temptation” 4 Museum of St. Dymphna – The Conversation “I bet that was a dark moment” At that point I felt the conversation expire; I remained silent for a moment. “Well, I have to go where my parents are” I nodded in approval and told her how nice it was to meet her. We shook hands and she walked off down the long corridor. I was left wondering about many things but I did know that if I had a teenage daughter I would want her to be like the young woman I met that night in the Museum of Saint Dymphna. William Stride – January 8, 2008 5