MAINTENANCE
How to maintain your Kukri?
1 Apply machine/gun oil on the blade at least once a month or/and every time after use. Make sure not
to leave any fingerprint on the blade.
2 Incase rust develops on the blade, first clean the blade with some petrol/gasoline then rub the rust off
with fine sandpaper; wipe it off with a clean cloth and apply oil. A wheel-shiner machine may be used
to re-shine the rust infected area.
3 Use shoe polish for the leather case, furniture shiner for the wood, Brasso (brass polish) for the brass
fittings and Silvo (silver polish) for silver cases once in a while to keep your khukuri fit and fine.
4 Scrub the carved (Dragon ) blade with a hard brush (tooth brush) soaked in petrol and wipe it with a
clean cloth before display.
5 Both sides of the blunt chakmak can sharpen the blade. However, a sharpening stone is
recommended for better and faster result.
6 While on display, make sure to often clean the dirt particles, insect waste etc on the khukuri surface
with a soft dry cloth and always keep away from water.
7 Before khukuri is put out of action for a long period of time; oil the blade properly, wrapped it in a
plastic or polythene bag and keep it out of the scabbard. Same for the two small knives.
8 Always store/keep khukuri in a dry normal temp room.
Caution
1 Care should be taken not to expose the khukuri scabbard into the sun for a longer period of time as
heating may help it to shrink a bit, and hence making the blade difficult to insert.
2 Using the blade on metallic surface and stone etc. should be avoided.
3 Keep away from water and fingerprint.
4 Khukuri is not a throwing knife so must never be thrown.
5 It is also not a hammering tool.
6 Over working on the bevel or sharp edge area while maintaining or repairing should be avoided as
heat generated from it can spoil/loosen the temper of the blade.
7 Guidance and supervision is essential before use and must always be kept out of reach of children.
8 Always maintain your khukuri in a timely manner so that its life can be prolonged.
9 Using khukuri in extreme conditions should also be avoided.
Sheath IMP note:
Since both the blade and sheath are freshly made in some kukris, in order to protect the blade it is
packed separately (not tucked in the sheath). In this process the freshly made sheath can get slightly
shrunk in transit making the blade difficult to tuck in and out on receipt. In a case like this, please follow
this instruction carefully (Too Tight or Too Loose).
SCABBARD:Too Tight or Too Loose
The buffalo hide used for the khukuri scabbard is sensitive to some extent to the outer weather and
conditions. It can shrink a bit in hot temperature where as expand a bit in cold temperature thus
treatment is needed as necessary.
“Too Tight”; because of too hot surrounding temperature, leather can shrink giving extra pressure to the
inner wooden frame of the scabbard resulting into narrowing the blade’s room and thus making drawing
in and out difficult. In a case like this, oil the blade sufficiently and then completely tuck in the blade
forcefully if needed. Hit the front edge of the scabbard close to the throat and the back edge several
times with one hand while the other holds the khukuri handle firmly. Then draw the blade in and out a
few times and repeat the hitting action. Lastly tuck in the khukuri completely and firmly push the blade
forward against the front edge of the scabbard and then store in a cool dry place for few days.
“Too Loose”; very cold temperature can extend the leather, widen the blade’s room and thus make it
loose (this is very rare though). To avoid this, put the khukuri scabbard (only) in the sun for few hours (24hrs) to dry. The sun will heat the leather and thus contracts narrowing the khukuri room. Khukuri blade
can also be prevented from wobbling inside the scabbard by pushing the blade forward towards the
front edge of the scabbard. It is also recommended to glue a piece of leather from inside on the upper
surface of the wooden frame as a washer to tighten the blade in the scabbard. In loose cases, always
make sure to keep the blade and scabbard separately when storing.
HANDLING
Holding- Normal Basic
A basic and very simple fist position where the thumb extends/stays straight forward on top of
index finger and closed-tight fist grip around the handle as shown in the picture. This position is
recommended for use during combat, close encounter, exercise, and training.
Holding- Thumbs up Improvised
Here the thumb stays up slightly bent on the spine of the blade (kukri) with the fist tightly closed around
the handle. This position will give the much needed pressure or force to throw or swing the blade
against any surfaces. The thumb will maintain the balance and also push the blade forward or
downward making the work effective and tireless. This position is specially recommended for cutting,
hacking, using or performing any kinds of domestic, outdoor and jungle work. This grip is also very handy
for slicing and peeling off an object. It is also advised that while using any kukri movement above the
waist level, it should be held in the “Normal (Basic)” way, whereas, for movements below waist level the
“Thumps Up” position is recommended. These positions will ensure the user gets maximum potential or
impact possible from a kukri.
Carrying
The most common and the easiest way is to wear the kukri at waist level on one side, edge or belly of
the kukri facing straight or slightly downward opposite side of the using hand.
While drawing (incase of right-handed user), left hand should first hold the back side of scabbard firmly
by placing the palm around it and then the right hand should come into action; grip the handle firmly
with closed fist around the handle and gently draw out the kukri. In this whole movement, user must
make sure that his left hand that holds the scabbard is not overlapping the scabbard’s belly or front
edge ( as the sharp kukri blade might cut through from inside and injure the crossing fingers). It is
recommended to slightly turn/move the scabbard downward while drawing out for easier pulling.
Different people carry kukri in different style or in whatever manner that benefits them the most.
Typical village kukris don’t have belt loops since villagers or farmers don’t put on waist belts as they
prefer to wear “Patuka or Sash” (a long cloth that goes around their waist circling it twice or thrice).
Villagers’ use it to hold or put on their kukri. They keep their kukri inside the Patuka facing downward at
about a 60* parallel to land level on stomach portion as shown in the picture.
Soldiers on duty wear kukris on the right side of their belt. The kukri remains upright facing its belly
straight back. Similarly while on parade, the kukri is worn on the middle/center of the backside. The idea
is to get both waist sides free so that hands can be swung and moved freely while performing. However
the drawing task is more difficult because of its placement. Practice and body movement to
accommodate the draw is crucial.
Drawing in and Out
Hold kukri firmly as shown in the picture with its edge/belly facing opposite to the body. The hand
holding the scabbard must be at the back encircling it but without overlapping at the front portion of
the scabbard. Do not encircle the front portion of the scabbard with your fingers while drawing kukri in
and out as this may cause injury. Hold the upper edge of the scabbard with your palm and fingers as
shown in the picture and then draw the weapon out slowly.
While drawing out the kukri, make sure that the spine of the blade is always touching the inner back
surface of the scabbard. Same while inserting in and follow the curve of the scabbard until the whole
blade goes into the scabbard.
Sometimes scabbard may open up a little bit because of extensive use and become loose. In case like
this after tucking the kukri inside push the handle down against the edge of the scabbard. The kukri will
get locked and tightened between the inner wooden walls of the scabbard. Similarly, in case when kukri
is too tight to operate; put heavy oil on the both surface of the blade then tuck it inside the scabbard
and put the kukri along with its scabbard in a cool/cold dry place for couple of days. The leather will get
stretched by doing this and will make more internal space for the kukri.
Swinging the Blade
In order to get the desired result while swinging a kukri it should be slightly inclined at about a 60º angle
downward against the target. By doing this the edge will cut through easier and with less effort. Stand
about a feet or two (or as needed) away from the object so that hands can be freely and forcefully
swung. It is recommended to find a spot on the target and swing the blade in a rhythm-tic movement
always aiming at the same spot. Hard balanced blows should be executed at the target however use of
excessive force to achieve goals quickly should be avoided. Rhythm, aim and consistency are the keys to
effective swinging.
Combat Encounter
Grip, aim and body position are very crucial. A kukri should be held as firmly as possible in Normal
(Basic) style illustrated earlier. Targeting a point on the enemy's body is equally important too. Above
all, proper body positioning and foot work will ensure a lethal and effective blow that can easily
neutralize the enemy. It is advised to position oneself at a more elevated level than the target and throw
a stroke as hard/powerful as possible. Stand slightly sideward to the target with feet stretched about 2
feet apart with the back foot resting on the sole prior to the stroke. Before executing the stroke, keep
the kukri-free hand stretched out towards the target, and the striking hand bent where the elbow is
parallel to shoulder level.
When releasing the stroke; the body should lean slightly towards the object; maintain the sole position
and move the free hand aside as the stroke comes in and swing the kukri with full strength.
Make sure that the hitting arm is stretched out and the wrist flexible to meet the targeted point/surface
at about 45-75* angle during the intended blow. Move the kukri free hand at the back as the stroke
comes in so that proper body balance can be maintained. This movement will give a perfect balance and
clean lethal blow with a fatal consequences.
Karda and Chakmak
Almost all kukris come with these two small knives on the back section (throat) of the scabbard. The
“Karda” (one edge sharpened) is a small utility knife used to perform tasks that the big kukri blade
cannot. The “Chakmak” (Both edge dull/unsharpened) is the sharpener used to sharpen both the main
blade, which is the Kukri, and the small knife Karda. The steel used to make this knife is made harder
than the kukri blade so that it can easily sharpen. To sharpen the kukri, place the blade firmly against a
smooth leveled surface with the edge facing sideward resting body weight on it as shown in the picture.
Applying a little force, drag the Chakmak from the tip of the kukri to the notch (notch works as a stopper
and prevents the Chakmak from going further up towards the handle) several times on one side. Make
sure you maintain a certain rhythm and always start from tip to notch. Now flip the kukri to the other
side and repeat the action. Repeat till you get the desired sharpness or edge. The Chakmak sharpening
process is quite laborious and time consuming. Therefore, a sharpening stone or designated sharpening
hardware is recommended for faster and better results.
How to sharpen by a file:
Caution should be taken while sharpening a kukri blade.
Hold the kukri firmly against a fix object facing the edge towards you and slightly up (angular). Take a
flat smooth file and hold in an angular position (45-60*) to the edge. File in a to and fro movement from
the notch towards the tip for several times. Flip the blade and repeat it on the other side until the edge
gets sharpened. Forcefully filing against the blade in a steep angle will give quick results. However over
doing it may ruin the blade and its temper.
Bent Tip:
Some kukris’ sheath are freshly made. In order to protect it from rusting the blade is packed separately
(not tucked in) and shipped. In a case like this the blade may pierce a hole in the packing, get exposed
and thus get bent in transport. If such happens then please follow the following steps to correct it.
Take a smooth file. Hold the kukri in an angular position facing its edge towards the body. Position the
file parallel to the floor and start filling/scrubbing to and fro from beyond the area of bent and gently
towards it (following the curve) with some reasonable force. Use more force if required at the stiff bent
section. Slightly move the kukri’s angle up and down as you are filling. Make sure to cover a distance of
1-1.5 inches up and down from the actual bent part when filling.
Flip the knife to the other side (opposite towards the body). Follow the same steps as above.
Some of the basic but unknown facts of the khukuri
Facts
Solution
Because of the high tension created in the blade
within the carbons while tempering (extreme
temperature variation) the edge may twist a little.
This is natural.
The tip of the blade is less hardened (tempered) to
facilitate the making process (to avoid chipping off
when fixing butt cap in a straight down position)
hence it could bend/twist slightly when struck hard.
This is normal and done intentionally, and can be
fixed easily.
The inner wooden frame of the sheath while fitting
leaves a narrow gap which is later covered by
leather. Thus in carefree handling the sharp blade
may cut open the leather and get exposed. This
happens.
In most cases, the leather sheath tends to shrink a bit
and may cause difficulty in drawing in and out - The
frog may also come loose because of this. This is
natural.
The kukri edge can bent (twist) occasionally if
stroke on very hard surfaces. This is actually good
sign as this mean the temper is well balanced (not
too hard). This is fixable.
Sometime the wood used in the handle can shrink a
bit due to the natural surroundings and may expose
tang (in full flat tang version). This is natural and
fixable.
Do Nothing
See “Bent Tip” (above)
Carefully glue together the open cut using some
dust (iron dust recommended). Then seal the cut
area by a thick leather patch and use duct tape
around the sheath to fix it.
See “Too Tight or Too Loose” - Slightly lower the
frog from its position then put glue all over in its
original position in the sheath and pull back the
frog. Let is dry. OR completely take out the frog,
stick two pieces of leather patches to the inner
rounded walls of the frog and let it dry. Put back the
frog to its original position (forcefully if needed)
Hold the kukri firmly against a fix object facing the
edge towards you and slightly up (angular). Take a
flat rough file and file the bent portion until it levels
to the original level of the edge. Filing is
recommended in a to and fro movement and from
before the area of bent and beyond it. Repeat it on
the other side as well. By doing this the twisted steel
will come off and the new tempered steel will
expose.
Take a rough flat file and file (use some force if
necessary) the exposed tang until it comes to the
level of the shrunken wood. Once leveled, use a
smooth emery cloth (sandpaper) to scrub both the
tang and wood to further level closely and get the
finishing.