Making a Bezel
These 5 videos from Art Jewelry Magazine go through the process very thoroughly
Part 1 – Cutting the bezel wire to shape and preparing to solder
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3t12l5S8OA
*Use post-it note to measure curved cabochon shape, and mark on overlap – you can transfer this
measurement onto your bezel wire.
*Cut your bezel wire VERY straight, and make sure the two ends are flush when they meet.
*this video has some good tips for straightening the bezel wire. Make sure you are careful with this soft
metal.
Part 2 – Soldering the bezel wire
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3gG-lX70eA
*flux the seam on both sides
*Use at least medium solder for this seam, because you will be adding a back to the bezel with easy
solder
*Position solder at top of seam
*Heat around the entire bezel, keeping torch moving to heat evenly. When flux turns glassy, solder is
about to flow. Turn piece over to make sure the solder flow was complete. Solder on outside, not inside
– you want your stone to fit.
*Pickle
Part 3 - Shaping Bezel to stone
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bc9zQiKrc-k
*Shape to stone
“File and sand off any solder on the seam
*Check fit again
*Sand bottom to make it flush to add to backing – use sandpaper on flat surface and figure 8
Part 4 – Troubleshooting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hw10t9Dwwl8
This video helps if your bezel is too large or too small.
Part 5 – Soldering on Back Plate
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hw10t9Dwwl8
*You can cut a design, or stamp on the back of the bezel.
*Make sure there is enough clean metal for your bezel, and flux entire bottom of back plate. Flux
bottom, sanded rim of bezel. The fit must be tight – solder will not fill gaps.
* Use easy solder and add pallions all around the inside. Space evenly
*Heat with torch from the outside to join the bezel to the back plate. Start on the outside side of the
perimeter of your back plate (It is heavier metal than the bezel – you don’t want to melt it).
*Trim back plate to your desired shape. Be careful when you are cutting/sawing/filing, not to open the
seam.