Color Control
Presented by
Phillip-Todd
Aveda Hair Color Purefessional ™
Learning Objectives
•To relate the pigment weight of the product to the level of saturation of color in
the hair
•Understand the concepts and differences between ammonia lift, developer lift,
and non-ammonia products.
•Have a better understanding of how Developer strength can affect the saturation
of color on the hair, how it works and how it can be used to manipulate NRP and
haircolor.
•Connect tonal saturation in a formula to achieve the perfect end result.
•Understand how Hair Type affects lift and saturation in hair color.
•Commit to performing every color service completely with the use of all
recommended steps and products.
•Have a more secure understanding of how placement of color affects end result,
and how placement can be personalized for a current result for each guest.
Gallery Stroll
Controlling Depth and Saturation
Pastel Blondes(Ammonia Lift, Double Developer)
 Pastel Paint, heavy pigment weight in the tube and with
lower developers, color is diffused by the use of higher
volume developers. (Pastel Pure tones can be used with
Intense Base and with Universal 0n for a heavier more
opaque effect.) The pastel effect comes from the use of a
double developer in a higher strength.
Deposit Only Color Treatment(No Ammonia)
 Watercolors, no ammonia so no drastic color changes are
achievable, pigment weight is too sheer to completely cover
natural haircolor. No Ammonia therefore color is only
deposited on the cuticle layer and in the outer layers of the
cortex.
Full Spectrum Permanent(Developer Lift)
 Acrylics, more opaque permanent color with a decent
pigment weight, has enough to cover natural haircolor and
make it darker, also can lighten hair and has enough pigment
weight to establish the desired tone at the desired level.
Permanent Hair Color contains ammonia to assist in the
penetration of the color molecule into the cortex.
Full Spectrum Deep(Ammonia Lift, Double Developer)
 Oil Paints, heavy pigment weight, the closest to the pigment
weight of natural haircolor, has inherent depth of color.
Higher amount of ammonia and double developer assist in
opening the cuticle and processing a heavier pigment load.
Take 2 minutes to Journal Discoveries
and take a 15 minute break.
Ammonia and Hair Color
Ammonia is used as an alkalizing agent to assist in opening the cuticle
for permanent haircolor molecules to penetrate into the cortex of
the hair where it can be oxidized by Hydrogen Peroxide.
Controlling Saturation with Developers
Aveda Conditioning Crème Color
Catalysts
•5 Volume
•10 Volume
•20 Volume
•30 Volume
•40 Volume
Deposit Only Color Treatment Activators
•Crème and Liquid, both of which are 11.5 Volume.
Controlling Tonal Saturation
Updated Vibrancy Guide
15 formula variations available per level and tone. IE - 6 R/O
Strength
Natural
Formulas
Soft
40 gr. 6N
1 gr. R/O
40 mls. Color
Catalyst
Standard
40 gr. 6N
2 gr. R/O
40 mls. Color
Catalyst
Strong
40 gr. 6N
3 gr. R/O
40 mls. Color
Catalyst
Super Soft
40 gr. 6N
.5 gr. R/O
40 mls. Color
Catalyst
Super Strong
40 gr. 6N
4.5 gr. R/O
40 mls. Color
Catalyst
Intense
Formulas
30 gr. Intense
Base
10 gr. 6N
2 gr. R/O
40 mls. Color
Catalyst
30 gr. Intense
Base
10 gr. 6N
4 gr. R/O
40 mls. Color
Catalyst
30 gr. Intense
Base
10 gr. 6N
6 gr. R/O
40 mls. Color
Catalyst
30 gr. Intense
Base
10 gr. 6N
1 gr. R/O
40 mls. Color
Catalyst
30 gr. Intense
Base
10 gr. 6N
9 gr. R/O
40 mls. Color
Catalyst
Bright
Formulas
20 gr. 6N
20 gr. Intense
Base
2 gr. R/O
40 mls. Color
Catalyst
20 gr. 6N
20 gr. Intense
Base
4 gr. R/O
40 mls. Color
Catalyst
20 gr. 6N
20 gr. Intense
Base
6 gr. R/O
40 mls. Color
Catalyst
20 gr. 6N
20 gr. Intense
Base
1 gr. R/O
40 mls. Color
Catalyst
20 gr. 6N
20 gr. Intense
Base
9 gr. R/O
40 mls. Color
Catalyst
Take 2 minutes to Journal
1 Hour for Lunch
Pigment and Haircolor
Levels 1-4 Blue Pigment
Blue tones are seen as brown in the hair, since brown is made up of
all three pigments, blue/red/yellow. Once the blue pigment is
broken down then red is revealed.
Brown is made up of all three primary colors, blue, red, yellow,
removing blue exposes natural remaining pigment which is made up
of the remaining red and yellow pigment. Adding blue neutralizes
warm tones and balances the red and yellow back to brown.
Levels 2-8 Red Pigment
Red is the most prevalent color underlying all haircolor. It is present
on the NRP chart in levels 2-8 and is present in all haircolor to some
degree as any level of brown is made up of all three pigments Blue,
Red, and Yellow. Controlling or Enhancing Red are the two options
that we have in dealing with NRP since red is contributed
throughout so many levels.
Levels 6-10 Yellow Pigment
Yellow is the smallest of the color molecules and is the hardest to
remove or break down.Yellow is the color molecule that all other
molecules connect to in order to create a tone. It acts as the engine
of your train connecting and driving all the other molecules to create
a tone. In the days prior to NN yellow was added to formulas in
order to create a gray coverage formula.
Neutralizing Unwanted Pigment
Blue Red and Yellow in equal parts make Brown.
In Natural hair Color, as pigment is removed or broken down by developer,
this is seen in stages, blue is broken down first, exposing red and yellow,
and then the red is broken down exposing yellow. In order to neutralize a
color you need to replace the pigment that has been broken down or
removed and bring it back to a balanced brown.
Secondary colors are made by mixing
two Primary colors together.
Blue and Red = Violet
Blue and Yellow = Green
Red and Yellow = Orange
Blue
Red
Yellow
Red
Blue
Blue
Yellow
Yellow
Red
If you see a Secondary Reflective tone you need a primary tone to
replace the replace the missing pigment, neutralize it and make it
brown.
If you see a Primary Reflective tone you need a secondary tone to
replace the missing pigments, neutralize it, and make it brown.
Hair Type and Natural Remaining
Pigment
Level 5
Fine
Medium
Coarse
Red
Red Orange
Red
Red Violet
Hair Type and Lift
3 grades of lift per level determined by hair type
•Fine-Top of the lifting gradient / Lower Developer/ Soft Formula
•Medium- Center of the lifting gradient / Standard Developer/
Standard Formula
•Coarse – Bottom of the lifting gradient / Stronger Developer /
Strong Formula
Level
Hair Type
Natural Remaining
Pigment
Detailed NRP
10
Fine
Medium
Coarse
Fine
Medium
Coarse
Fine
Medium
Coarse
Fine
Medium
Coarse
Fine
Medium
Coarse
Fine
Medium
Coarse
Fine
Medium
Coarse
Fine
Medium
Coarse
Fine
Medium
Coarse
Fine
Medium
Coarse
Pale Yellow
Palest Yellow
Pale Yellow
Yellow
Yellow
Yellow
Yellow Orange
Yellow Orange
Yellow Orange
Orange Yellow
Orange Yellow
Orange
Orange Red
Orange Red
Red Orange
Red Orange
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
Yellow
Yellow/Orange
Orange
Red/Orange
Red
Red/Violet
Violet
Blue /Violet
Blue
Red Orange
Red
Red Violet
Red Violet
Red Violet
Violet Red
Violet Red
Violet
Violet Blue
Violet Blue
Blue Violet
Blue
Blue
Blue
Blue
This slide illustrates how different hair types can subtly
affect the end result and how a slight variance in our Pure
Tone choice can rebalance our color structure and create a
true neutral.
Level 5
Detailed NRP
Neutralizing tones
Corresponding Pure Tones
Fine
Red Orange
Green Blue
FSP Dark Green Blue
Medium
Red
Green
FSP Green Pure Pigment
Coarse
Red Violet
Green Yellow
FS Deep Dark Green Yellow
Hair Type and Deposit
3 grades of deposit per level determined by hair type
•Fine – Use a soft formula to Precolor NRP
•Medium – Use a standard formula to Precolor NRP
•Coarse- Use a strong formula to Precolor NRP
Lifting with Color on previously colored
hair:
• Use a higher volume developer, double developer/strong formula
• Not predictable in Level but somewhat predictable in Shade and Tone
• High ammonia products lift easier with the higher percentage of
ammonia in the product to lift the cuticle; Works in combination with
the higher developer to break down the color molecules so the lift is
achieved.
• Can be used successfully to refresh reds, cut down on oversaturated
color that may appear muddied and drab, and raise the level of the
shade.
• For example using Full Spectrum Deep lighter Shades 10n or 12n,
Intense Base or Extra Lifting Crème as bases with double developer
when lifting previous color in order to achieve the desired result
without color cleansing.
• When using thirty or forty volume to remove pigment from previous
colorations, use a strong formula to re- establish color tonality. Be sure
to allow to process for the full 40 to 45 minutes for the best result.
Recommendations for refreshing
color on Lengths and Ends
•When Refreshing Cool Colors use a softer formula than on the
regrowth
•When Refreshing Warm Colors use a strong formula with a higher
devloper on the lengths and ends
Take 2 minutes to Journal and take
a 15 minute break
Controlling the Condition and
Integrity of the Hair
Step One: Damage Remedy Equalizing
Solution
If you are applying color to hair that has been treated previously with
color, or hair that has been exposed to environmental stressors, it is
essential to properly prepare the hair with Damage Remedy
Equalizing Solution. This protective pre-treatment repairs and evens
porosity along the hair strand which acts to ensure even saturation
and absorption of color. Think of it as filling in potholes in the road
prior to re-paving the street in order to get a smooth finished surface
as an end result.
Step Two: Product Selection
The condition of the hair can be further boosted by the choice of color product that you choose
to utilize on the guest.
Full Spectrum Permanent Color: Imparts condition and shine with the use of plant based
ingredients and natural certified organic plant oils.
Full Spectrum Deposit Only Color Treatment: Demi Permanent no ammonia color which
adds shine and condition to the hair.
Full Spectrum Deep: An ammonia lift color loaded with plant oils and conditioners to assist in
maintaining the condition of hair because the primary use of Full Spectrum Deep is as a high lift
series for brunettes.
The integration of Universal 0n with the other hair color product choices increases the
condition and shine of the end result.
Step Three: Developer selection.
It almost seems counter intuitive that in order to achieve the cleanest
healthiest result in hair color that you would want to use the lowest
developer that will do the job and give you the result that you want.
Too often stylist utilize the highest developers possible on the
misconception that it will work faster, give brighter results and do
the job more intensely. This is not always the case, sometimes by
utilizing the highest developer possible you are damaging the cuticle
of the hair more than is necessary, diluting pure tones which are
needed to refine or enhance your end result as well as damaging the
integrity of the hair color.
5 and 10 Volume Color Catalyst:
 Utilized to deposit color only. Little to no damage is caused
by these developers since very little lifting is done to the
cuticle of the hair. Longevity may be a factor when depositing
with 5 volume as the color molecules do not get ‘pushed’
deep into the cortex of the hair strand.
20 Volume Color Catalyst
 Works in conjunction with the ammonia in the haircolor to
lift the cuticle and ensure even saturation of the color
molecule into the cortex where then it can oxidize the color
molecule which expands and becomes a color molecule in
the hair. Will achieve 2 levels of lift with Full Spectrum
Permanent hair color in a one to one ratio, and up to 5 levels
of lift with Extra Lifting Crème High Lift Blonding, as well as
with Full Spectrum Deep when mixed in a two to one ratio
with the color.
30 Volume Color Catalyst
 Provides up to three levels of lift in a standard Full Spectrum
Permanent Hair Color application. Will provide an additional half
level of lift in a Full Spectrum Deep Hair Color application. Will
dilute Pure Tone strength and is recommended to use a strong
formulation for Pure Tones when using 30 volume.
 30 Volume is too strong to use with enlightener as it works too fast
with the persulfates present in lightening products and will not
break down melanin evenly in the cortex, leaving the hair spotty
and uneven in its removal of melanin. It will also leave the cuticle
of the hair rough and damaged as it lifts the cuticle higher than
necessary in order to achieve the desired lift.
40 Volume Color Catalyst
 Provides 4 levels of lift in Full Spectrum Permanent Hair Color
and up to one additional level of lift in a Full Spectrum Deep Hair
Color application.
 Will dilute Pure Tone strength and is recommended to use a
strong formulation for Pure Tones when using 40 volume.
 As with 30 volume, 40 volume color catalyst acts too fast with the
persulfates in lightening products and raises the cuticle too high
creating damage, to be effective in most enlightener applications.
 40 Volume works very well in conjunction with a high lift
ammonia product such as Extra Lifting Crème or Full Spectrum
Deep to lift previously colored hair as it has the assistance of the
ammonia in the product to assist in raising the cuticle of the hair
and breaking down the color pigment in the hair strand.
Deposit Only Color Treatment Activator
 Available in a Liquid or Crème, both are 11.5 volume in strength.
 Crème is a moisture based developer with a creamy texture that
adds moisture and condition to the coloring process, excellent for
hair that is dry, or for coarse and curly hair.
 Liquid is a protein based developer and adds integrity and shine to
the hair color service, best used on hair that has protein integrity
challenges and fine to medium hair that needs a lot of reflection.
 Both work excellently with Full Spectrum Enlightener because it
works gently and adds condition and shine to the lightening
process.
Step Four: Timing
Correct timing is imperative in hair color as Aveda haircolor lifts and
deposits simultaneously. This means that in order to achieve the
desired amount of lift, as well as the desired amount of deposit and
tonal control the full processing time is necessary in order to insure
the completion of those two actions.
Step Five: Color Conserve System
Color Conserve was designed in order to maintain the condition and
longevity of Aveda Hair Color. Color Conserve Phinish at the
shampoo bowl stops the action of the hair color formula as well as
brings the PH of the hair back to the neutral range and close down
the cuticle, mitigating damage to the cuticle that may have been done
during the hair color service. This is vital because it helps to lock in
the color and smoothes the hair which in turn maintains the hair in a
healthier condition.
Step Six: Botanical Hair Therapy
An essential part of EVERY hair color service, Botanical Hair
Therapy treatments are recommended as the last service step in an
Aveda Hair Color Service to ensure the longevity and integrity of the
hair color.
Step Seven: Product
Recommendations
Aveda Course Survey
WORKSHOP
One Day Format or Two Day Format
Take It Home
•Add one formula with a different product
to each of your color applications
•Mix up the intensity of formulas in your
applications
•Adjust your formulas for hair types and
truer results
Thank You, I appreciated having you
in class!
PhillipTodd.Com
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Phillip@Philliptodd.com