New Directions in Natural Dyes
for Cosmetics
ARRDHOR-CRITT Horticole
22, rue de l’Arsenal  17300 Rochefort/Mer  France
Tél : 05 46 99 17 01  Fax : 05 46 87 28 63
contact@critt-horticole.com  www.critt-horticole.com
“Humans feel a deep joy when they contemplate colours, the eye needs
them in the same way as it needs light”
Goethe
The Lascaux caves
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA
Medlpa woman
Corporal paint
Geek vase
ARRDHOR-CRITT Horticole / CDP project on natural dyes
 CRITT Horticole:
Regional Center for Innovation and Developpement in Horticulture
 20
years work in CRITT Horticole, with a multidisciplinary team and point of view :
history, botany, agronomy, biochemistry, industrial process
Cultivation of dye plants from temperate climates
Extraction of dyes, characterization
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA
ARRDHOR-CRITT Horticole / CDP project on natural dyes
Dyes and pigments production - scale - up to industrial level
Developpement in several industrial fields with industrial firms -
Setting up of the commercial society COULEURS DE PLANTES®
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA
Share of knowledge, organisation of Symposium
Cosmetics: international nomenclature and regulations
Cosmetics : make – up, care products, hair, soaps
Regulations, standards and labels came during the 20Th century after the decrease of almost
all natural dyes and didn’t take into consideration those old vanished products.
We don’t find specific regulation or standard for natural dyes, they have to be attached to
general regulations or norms : insert natural dyes intelligently within modern regulation
For rough matter - Refer to CITES
CITES: is the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of wild fauna and flora.
It is an international agreement between governments. Its aim is to ensure that international trade in specimens of wild animals and plants does not threaten their
survival.
CITES was drafted as a result of a resolution adopted in 1963. CITES now has 175 member countries.
Today, CITES accords varying degrees of protection to more than 30,000 species of animals and plants, divided into three annexes ;
Annexe I : species that are the most endangered among, threatened with extinction. International trade is banned.
Annexe II : species that are not necessarily now threatened with extinction but that may become so unless trade is closely controlled. These species may be authorized
by the granting of an export permit or re-export certificate.
Annexe III : species not endangered but CITES prevents unsustainable or illegal exploitation. An appropriate permits or certificates is necessary.
-
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA
Cosmetics: international nomenclature and regulations
For natural dyes or pigments :
INCI = International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients . INCI names are used for listing ingredients on
cosmetic product labels.
In order to be used for cosmetics, an ingredient must have a INCI name
Europe
USA
China
Southeast Asia
Japan
INCI name
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Colour
approved for
cosmetics
Colour Index
Colour Index
Colour Index
Colour Index
Colour Index
Positive list
to be
consulted
EINECS :
European
Inventory of
Existing
Commercial
chemical
Substances
ASEAN Cosmetic
Directive
CFR : Code of
Federal
Regulations
If not in
positive list
IECIC 2012 : Inventory
of Existing Cosmetics
Ingredients in China
CSCL : Chemical
Susbtances Control Law
INGREDIENT but not “colour” or “pigment”
CAS = Chemical Abstract Service (an operating division of the American Chemical Society, at the origin of
the Chemical Abstracts publication in 1907)
The unique organization (database) in the world which find, collect and organize all publicly disclosed
substance information.
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA
Cosmetics: data on the products
Whatever you by or you sell, whatever you use it for.
1 - Product specification and material security data sheets = Absolutely necessary
Similar to chemical product
 Identification of the producer, the transformer
 Origin of the rough matter : name and part of the plant
 Manufacturing process
 Nomenclature (CAS – EINECS – INCI - CI…)
 Physical and chemical properties (Texture, water, granulometry, pH, Colour Intensity,
Solubility, apparent specific density …)
 First aid and fire fighting measures
 Handling and storage
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA
Cosmetics: data on the products
2 - Environmental data = Necessary
 Allergens
• Cosmetic
For Europe there is a cosmetic directive : 7ème amendement de la directive cosmétique CE/76/768. One
must indicate the présence of 26 allergenes in the list of ingrédients
Directive 2003/15/CE - Annexe III - Partie I
2-benzylidèneheptanal (N°CAS 122-40-7)
Alcool benzylique (N°CAS 100-51-6)
7-hydroxycitronellal (N°CAS 107-75-5)
alpha-Cétone (N°CAS 127-51-5)
Benzoate de benzyle (N°CAS 120-51-4)
Amylcinnamyl alcool (N°CAS 101-85-9)
Citronellol (N°CAS 106-22-9)
Cinnamaldéhyde (N°CAS 104-55-2)
d-Limonène (N°CAS 5989-27-5)
Cinnamate de benzyle (N°CAS 103-41-3)
Eugénol (N°CAS 97-53-0)
Citral (N°CAS 5392-40-5)
Géraniol (N°CAS 106-24-1)
Coumarine (N°CAS 91-64-5)
Isoeugénol (N°CAS 97-54-1)
Evernia furfuracéa (N°CAS 90028-67-4) (*)
Linalol (N°CAS 78-70-6)
Evernia prunastri (N°CAS 90028-68-5) (*)
Lyral (N°CAS 31906-04-4)
Farnésol (N°CAS 4602-84-0)
Oct-2-ynoate de méthyle (N°CAS 111-12-6)
Hexylcinnamaldéhyde (N°CAS 101-86-0)
Alcool cynnamylique (N°CAS 104-54-1)
Lilial (N°CAS 80-54-6)
Alcool 4-méthoxybenzylique(CAS 105-13-5)
Salicylate de benzyle (N°CAS 118-58-1)
•We did the analyses on 12 natural dyes extracts : OK - No allergens except Coumarine in Sorgho
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA
Cosmetics: data on the products
 Heavy metals
We don’t find a unique norm for heavy metals. We have taken the European norme : NFU EN 13432 for
bio-material and painting as a reference, for comparison. One can notice different other specifications
Example: ppm (mg/Kg)
Norme
EN 13432:200
In final
product
ELEMENTS
Ag
Sb
Mn
Ba
Cr
Cu
Ni
Zn
Cd
Pb
Hg
Se
As
Mo
Co
Sn
F
0.2
50,0
50,0
25,0
150,0
0,5
50,0
0,5
0,8
5,0
1,0
100,0
We did the analyses on 12 natural dyes extracts : OK
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA
Soil
Associat°
In final
products
1-2
25-50
1-4
0.1
1-0.2
0.02
0.2
0.2
1-4
ECOLABEL
European
In dyes
100
50
1000
100
100
250
200
1500
20
100
4
20
50
500
250
2500
Cosmetics: data on the products
 Pesticides –
Cosmetic, textile, painting
For Europe it does exists a listing of molecules for medicinal plants - Those molecules are not
allowed in the products.
The analyses are requested for cosmetics
L’ingénierie serres
For various label you may have different listings but Pharmacopée is the most complete and the
most pertinent for natural dyes:
We did the analyses on 12 natural dyes extracts : OK
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA
Cosmetics: data on the products
3 - Toxicological information = Difficult
Absolutly necessary for cosmetic
Historical and bibliographical data in toxicology
 Review of existing literature up to a specified date.
 References in appendix
Toxicological tests – Done by the firms
Local toxicity
 Primary skin irritation
 Ocular irritation
Allerginicity
 Sensitisation
Systemic toxicity
 Mutagenesis: Ames test
 Acute toxicity – Oral toxicity DL50
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA
Quality- tracking - standardisation
Evaluation, control, characterization of rough matter, extracts, final applications
Sun Test for light fastness
Spectrocolorimetry
Spectrophotometry
Colorimetry CIE 1976, L*a*b
Color intensity UV/Vis lnm
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA
Cosmetics: Succes stories - Yves St Laurent / L’Oréal
Want to developp a new range of eyes shadows and lip sticks worldwild
Requirements :
 3 natural pigments to be mixed in their product bases : pink, orange, brown to be mixed
 Rough material not in danger (CITES )» , cosmetic regulation OK
 No toxicity ;
 Reproducibility : Δ E < 3 compare to the standard (Standard is a mix between the 3 first batches) - Lab colorimetry
system
 Microbiology …
Tests, developpement, scale up – a two years project :
 We choose more than 20 plants and propose them to YsL regulation service with a rough materials description . Cf
cosmos
 They made the toxicological, regulation, environnemental evaluations from all the documentation datas :
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA
Cosmetics: Succes stories - Yves St Laurent / L’Oréal
We finally choose 7 plants and made first pigments in the lab with 3 differents supports then 3 plants on one
support (Carbonate) have been selected after the toxical test in labs and a work on the antioxydant activity by YsL.
Several batches have been made (40 Kg each).
Cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus Cav)
aurones-chalcones
Pernambouc – Brasilwood (Caesalpinia echinata L) brazilin
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA
Quebracho (Schinopsis lorentzii
Enproanthocyanidins
Cosmetics: Succes stories - Yves St Laurent / L’Oréal
YsL invented the TAPE concept with a pattern
T.A.P.E. (Tinctorial Active Plant Extracts) are potent antioxidants for a new generation of innovative makeup
products.
Thanks to the collaboration between YSL Beauté R&D and CRITT Horticole the plant pigments, these molecules
which give colours and protection to plants, are overcomed to provide anti-free radical properties and fine
shades to makeup products.
T.A.P.E. : Stabilized flavonoids
As T.A.P.E. represent a new category of ingredient in which the antioxidant
property is really supported by colour, T.A.P.E. are particularly adapted for
makeup cosmetics as eye-shadows or lipsticks …..
This innovative technology helps to improve cosmetic products efficacy.
Because of the technologies used and since they come from renewable sources,
the T.A.P.E. development represents an innovation in accordance with
environmental respect and protection.
●●● ●●●
COSMÉTOLOGIE – COSMETOLOGY - 60 - PARFUMS COS M É T I Q U E S ACTUA L I T É S - N°
198 - DÉCEMBRE 2007
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA
Cosmetics: Succes stories - Yves St Laurent / L’Oréal
Focus on rough material :
Cosmos came from our cultivation, Quebracho extract was bought
Pernambouc : waste to wealth - Cooperation with firms which produce bows for string music instruments - We use the
wood sawdust –(CITES : annexe II Logs, sawn wood, veneer sheets, including unfinished wood articles used for the fabrication of
bows for stringed musical instruments, are permitted)
THANKS TO Sugito Bow Company from Nagoya – JAPAN.
Quality materials, technology, and
artistic sensitivity
« A most important factor is the selection
of high-quality material. There is quite a
variety of natural woods; we carefully
select wood that is just the right weight
and strength. Then we combine advanced
technology and artistic sensitivity to
create bows of the highest possible
quality… To keep up with the great
demand for Sugito Bows, we use about 15
tons of pernambuco wood each year. » .
Photos : Sugito Bow website
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA
Cosmetics: Succes stories - Chanel
Target :
Decrease the use of cochineal carmine in make-up formula
Carmine red from Cochineal :
Beautiful Red and the only red pigment allowed by International regulations
in cosmetic products applied in the eye area
Objective :
Develop Chanel’s offer with a red colored extract which combine biological
activity and high color intensity
Achievements :
Sanitary safety for a dermis or ocular application (toxicology)
High coloring intensity and ease of industrial use
RESULT :
New range of lipstick with Sappan – wood new pigment with antioxydative
activity
Cf ISEND2011 – Chanel lecture
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA
Cosmetics: Succes stories - Chanel
Search of Red Vegetables Sources



Proposal of vegetables species
Selection made by Chanel, based on key performance factors seen before (tox, color intensity…)
SAPPAN WOOD (Caesalpinia sappan)
After checking that this product was not on the Cites3 list of banned exploitation, Sappan wood has been
imported from Asia in the form of sticks with a diameter of 1 cm and length of 20 cm.
N° CAS
N° EINECS / EC
Nom INCI
89958-14-5
289-637-5
Caesalpinia sappan bark extract
Caesalpinia sappan stem powder
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA
Cosmetics: Succes stories - Chanel
Protocol that permits the extraction of the wood
coloring without using organic solvent
Getting a soluble plant extract, with intense color and
yeld of 9 to 10%
This liquid extract has been precipitated onto a support
in order to obtain a pigmented powder which can be
introduced in make-up formulae.
Insolubilization of the Plant Extract

Several supports have been tested in order to fix the
coloring extract :

The proportions extract/mordant/support have been
optimized
Kaolin
Ghassoul
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA
Mica
Silice
Cosmetics: Succes stories - Chanel
 Kaolin support has been selected for its safety, stability and especially for its
red color that persists in a mix with titanium dioxide, that is to say the
closest to cochineal carmine in colorimetric formulation even if more
transparent .
 Biological properties have been validated on this support (anti-aging and
antioxidant activities)
Chanel Rouge Allure Luminous Intense Lip Colour has
been launched on Wednesday, September 5th, 2012
•.
•“…..New ROUGE ALLURE Luminous Intense Lip Colour represents the next
generation of this classic lipstick. Its stunning colour is the result of a
concentration of ultra-thin pigments, specially designed to magnify shade
intensity. Lighter hues have a unique presence, revealing nuances and depth.
Darker tones heighten the drama, with audacity and pure elegance for an
ultra-feminine effect. Colour brilliance is only part of the story of new
ROUGE ALLURE Luminous Intense Lip Colour. Special hydrating agents and
antioxidants, rich in green tea and sappan wood, leave lips supple and
protected for lasting comfort, while tea butter ensures colour endures for the
ultimate wear.”
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA
Natural dyes and hair colouring

Natural hair colouring is generally based on Henna powders:
Mixed with
INCI : Lawsonia inermis leaf powder
« Natural henna »
INCI : Indigofera tinctoria leaf powder
« Black henna »
 Available in few nuances : Colours on hair are often gilded with more or less
russet-red blazings
Natural dyes and hair colouring
Henne Color Premium® Example of a industrial partnership in hair colouring
Composition 100% plant based:
 Dyeing plants (Lawsonia inermis, Indigofera
tinctoria…)
 Natural dyes purchased by the french society
« Couleurs de Plantes » (Rubia tinctorum,
Haematoxylum campechianum, Reseda luteola,
Sorghum bicolor..)
 Active ingredients with well known benefits
(Green tea, Lawsonia inermis….)
Henné Color Premium végétal ®
www.njd-cosmetics.com
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA
Natural dyes and hair colouring
 New generation of colouring powders combining
tradition and modernity
 100% natural products combining colouring and hair
cares (vegetable active ingredients)
 Hair colouring based on henna powders AND natural
dyes
 Available in a range of 7 colours :
Henné Color Premium végétal ®
www.njd-cosmetics.com
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA
-
Flamboyant copper
Sensual mahogany
Audacious auburn
Radiant blond
Luminous chestnut
Voluptuous brown
Enchanting black
Proceedings
DVD content

List of the 560 participants from 57 countries

PowerPoint presentations, comments, papers and
abstracts of the 87 lectures

65 Posters

Interviews of the 33 dyeing demonstrators

Feed-back on the 4 technical outings

Artists’ catalogue (Art and Fashion exhibition)

List of the 45 International Market exhibitors

17 min film “Couleur Bourdaine”

List of the 20 broadcasted documentaries
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA
 Guidebooks of the Exhibitions
 Colour Purple: from the Atlantic to faraway
shores’
 ‘Natural dyes in the collections of the
Museum’

Feed-back on the Art and Fashion schools

Selected photos to keep the best souvenirs
More information and order form available on
www.isend2011.com
Thank you for your
attention
ISEND – WEFT 2012 – 27 SEPT – 1 OCT – KUCHING MALAYSIA