MANIPAL UNIVERSITY
JAIPUR
Bachelor of Jewelry Design (B. Des)
Aims to prepare professionals
to work on minute technicalities
of jewelry design, production,
quality control, promotion,
branding and management.
The four year professional
programme is intended to hone
a new dimension of creativity,
innovation, critical professional
judgment along with intellectual
acumen to develop and
communicate conceptual
arguments rooted in a holistic
perception of jewelry design,
management and business
context.
MANUAL DESIGNING
&
COMPUTER AIDED DESIGNING
MANUAL SKETCHING AND RENDERING
MANUAL SKETCHING AND RENDERING
CAD MODELS
Computer-aided design (CAD) is the use of
computer systems to assist in the creation,
modification, analysis, or optimization of a design.
CAD software is used to increase the productivity of
the designer, improve the quality of design, improve
communications through documentation, and to
create a database for manufacturing.
GEMOLOGY
Gemology or gemmology is the
science dealing with natural and
artificial gems and gemstones. It is
considered a geoscience and a
branch of mineralogy.
Tourmaline on quartz
Rubies from Jegdalek,
Afghanistan
Mimetite / Black
Forest, Germany
Aquamarine with Heliodor
tip sceptre crystal / Erongo
Mountain, Namibia
Ametrine
Calcite with Quartz //
Huanggang Mine, Inner
Mongolia, China
“YOU WAIT FOR A GEM IN AN ENDLESS SEA OF BLAH.”
GEMOLOGY
EMERALD
CITRINE
CALCITE
RUBY
TOPAZ
AMETRINE
JEWELLERY TECHNIQUES
&
STONE SETTING
Enamelling could mean the fusion of a
special type of powdered glass to metals
which is applied using different techniques,
with the application of heat to melt the
powder. There are enamel applications which
are more detailed and contain different
colours.
- Foreign/ Vilayati meena
- heating temp:2500w; can be done on
18 to 24 karat of gold.
- can be heated again n again, without hampering
the color of meena.
ENAMELLING
- Indian/ Desi meena
- 98.5% pure; Rare; Heating temp:3000w;
Natural colors ; Has more shine.
- Color value changes according to temperature.
- Can be done only on 23 and 24 karat.
- Many limitations; Available in high value
products only.
FILIGREE
Filigree is a delicate kind of jewellery
metalwork, usually of gold and silver,
made with tiny beads or twisted threads,
or both in combination, soldered together
or to the surface of an object of the same
metal and arranged in artistic motifs. It
often suggests lace and remains popular
in Indian and other Asian metalwork.
ENGRAVING
Engraving is the practice of incising a
design onto a hard, usually flat surface,
by cutting grooves into it. The result may
be a decorated object in itself, as when
silver, gold, steel, or glass are engraved,
or may provide an intaglio printing plate,
of copper or another metal, for printing
images on paper as prints or illustrations;
these images are also called engravings.
EMBOSSING
Sheet metal embossing is a
process for producing raised or
sunken designs or relief in
sheet metal. This process can
be made by means of matched
male and female roller dies, or
by passing sheet or a strip of
metal between rolls of the
desired pattern.
SURFACE TREATMENT
PATINATION
Patina is a film on the surface of bronze or
similar metals (produced by oxidation over a long
period); a sheen on wooden furniture produced
by age, wear, and polishing; or any such
acquired change of a surface through age and
exposure. On metal, patina is a coating of
various chemical compounds such as oxides or
carbonates formed on the surface during
exposure to the elements (weathering).
SURFACE TREATMENT
TEXTURING
ETCHING
SURFACE TREATMENT
Etching is the process of using
strong acid or mordant to cut into
the unprotected parts of a metal
surface to create a design in
intaglio in the metal (the original
process—in modern
manufacturing other chemicals
may be used on other types of
material). As an intaglio method of
printmaking, it is along with
engraving, and remains in wide
use today.
MOKUME GANE
SURFACE TREATMENT
The name Mokumé-Gané translates
to “wood grain metal” and is
representative of the patterns
achieved in its creation. The finished
product displays myriad layers of
coloured metals rippling and flowing
in various directions. The creation of
mokumé requires repetitively
annealing, rolling, twisting and
gouging the metal with burrs. Each
piece is carved by hand using a drill
to achieve unique patterns.
PRONG SETTING
Prong setting is the simplest and most common
type of setting, largely because it uses the least
amount of metal to hold the stone, thus showing
it off to its best advantage. It is simply some
number of wires, called prongs, which are of a
certain size and shape, arranged in a shape and
size to hold the given stone, and fixed at the
base. Then a burr of the proper size, is used to
cut what is known as a "bearing", which is a
notch that corresponds to the angles of the
stone. The burr most often used is called a "hart
bur" that is angled and sized for the job of setting
diamonds.
(Engagement and
wedding ring) Prong
Setting.
Prong setting (Ghat)
CHANNEL SETTING
CHANNEL SETTING
Channel setting is a method whereby stones
are suspended between two bars or strips of
metal, called channels. Often when setting
small stones and the bars go in a linear line
with the design it is called channel setting,
and when the bars cross the lines of the
design, it's called bar set
PAVE’ SETTING
ENLARGE VIEW
PAVE’ SETTING
Pavé settings are made up of lots of small
gemstones, often diamonds, set closely
together. The gems are separated and held in
place by little beads of the setting metal. The
result is what looks like a continuous surface
of diamonds or other gems.
FLUSH SETTING
Burnish set diamonds, Burnish setting or
flush setting is similar to bead setting, but
after the stone is inserted into the space,
instead of using a graver to lift beads, a
rubbing tool is used to push the metal all
around onto the stone, not very different
from bezel setting. The stone will be roughly
flush with the surface, with a nice rubbed
edge around it. This is a fairly recent type of
setting, looks very contemporary, and the
metal is often finished using sandblasting,
as it shows off the work very well.
Flush Setting
BEZEL SETTING
(Engagement Ring Setting )
Bezel Setting
Bezel Setting
The earliest technique of attaching stones to
jewelry was bezel setting. A bezel is a strip of
metal bent into the shape and size of the
stone and then soldered to the piece of
jewelry. Then the stone is inserted into the
bezel and the metal rubbed over the stone,
holding it in place. This method works well for
either cabochon or faceted stones.
COSTUME JEWELLERY
TRADITIONAL DESIGN
COSTUME JEWELLERY
ACCESSORY DESIGN
PROJECTS
FINE JEWELLERY
COSTUME JEWELLERY
TRADITIONAL DESIGN
TRADITIONAL DESIGN
FINE JEWELLERY
ACCESSORY DESIGN
TRADITIONAL DESIGN
FINE JEWELLERY
ACCESSORY DESIGN
FINE JEWELLERY
FINE JEWELLERY
COSTUME JEWELLERY
FINE JEWELLERY
TRADITIONAL DESIGN
FINE JEWELLERY
ACCESSORY DESIGN
COSTUME JEWELLERY
ACCESSORY DESIGN
ACCESSORY DESIGN
FINE JEWELLERY
ACCESSORY DESIGN
A fashion accessory is an item which
is used to contribute, in a secondary
manner, to the wearer's outfit. The
term came into use in the 19th
century. Accessories are often used to
complete an outfit and are chosen to
specifically complement the wearer's
look.
TRADITIONAL JEWELLERY DESIGNING
FINE JEWELLERY DESIGNING
COSTUME JEWELLERY
Costume jewelry is jewelry manufactured
as ornamentation to complement a
particular fashionable or garment as
opposed to "real" (fine) jewelry which may
be regarded primarily as collectibles,
keepsakes, or investments.
COSTUME JEWELLERY
Modern costume jewelry
incorporates a wide range of
materials. High end crystals,
cubic zirconia simulated
diamonds, and some semiprecious stones are used in
place of precious stones.
Metals include gold- or silverplated brass, Copper, German
silver etc.