N-DurHance™ A-1000
polymer
The enduring solution for
repair and conditioning
Dave Popplewell, global hair care
marketing manager, Ashland .
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dpopplewell@ashland.com
Introduction to N-DurHance™ A-1000
polymer
Problem – More damaged hair due to:
• Hair care regimens of shampooing, styling and coloring
all lead to damage to the hair
• Aging population in the developed world
• Increasing usage of hair care products in developing
markets
Result – is hair that is:
• More difficult to manage and comb
• Appears dull and rough
• Hair alignment is decreased
• More hydrophilic
Increasing number of conditioning ingredients on market but
none revert hair to original hydrophobic state and remain on
hair.
N-DurHance A-1000 is durable and reverts hair to a virgin
hydrophobic state for extended periods.
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N-DurHance™ A-1000 polymer
(INCI name: Polyacrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride)
N-DurHance™ A-1000 conditioning polymer- highly charged
homopolymer of acrylamido-N-propyltrimethylammonium chloride. It
introduces a new chemistry to the Personal Care industry.
•
A durable and substantive conditioning polymer for hair providing
a more permanent conditioning effect
•
Restores hair to a hydrophobic state
•
Benefits improve over the course of more than 5 shampoo cycles and persists
on the hair even after multiple washes
•
No build-up
•
Reduces or eliminates the need for silicone conditioning agent
•
Wet combability is significantly improved
•
Easy processable, ready to use 20% aqueous solution and requires no
heating or pH adjustments.
•
Compatible with a wide range of cationic, non-ionic and some anionic
surfactants.
•
Preservative free
•
Highly purified for personal care
•
Patent application pending
Hydrophilic 2x Bleached Hair
Water droplet spread spontaneously
2x Bleached Hair treated with
N-DurHance™ A-1000
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N-DurHance™ A-1000 polymer
Applications and usage
• Applications
– Intensive Conditioning Hair Masks
– Daily Use Conditioners
– Conditioning Sprays
– Comb through Conditioning Creams
– Shampoos for damaged hair, 2-in-1
shampoos, sulphate free shampoos,
silicone free shampoos
• Usage levels
– 1.0% to 5.0% as supplied (20%
aqueous solution)
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N-DurHance™ A-1000 polymer
Chemistry
INCI name:
Polyacrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride
Chemical Structure
Typical Properties
Property
Measurement
Appearance
Clear slightly amber liquid
Odor
Characteristic
Color, APHA
<300
Total solids,%
19-21
pH@25°C
3.5 – 4.5
Brookfield Viscosity,cps
(RVT,sp4,10 rpm @25°C)
250 -500
CAS number: 26427-01-0
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N-DurHance™ A-1000 polymer
ISCF™ (In Situ Controlled Flocculation)
The positively charged N-DurHance A-1000
polymer is attracted to the highly damaged
negatively charged hair leaving the hair with
an excess of positive charge.
A new mechanism of action,
ISCF™ (in situ controlled
flocculation).
Hair is shampooed (with or without silicones) and the anionic
surfactants (SLES) form flocculates on hair surface (in-situ)
with the cationic polymer During flocculate formation,
hydrophobic lauryl groups from SLES coat the hair surface,
creating a hydrophobic layer on the hair surface (no need
necessarily for silicones). If there are silicones or other oils
present in the shampoo, they are attracted to the hair surface
during the flocculate formation (boosting of silicone
deposition).
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N-DurHance™ A-1000 polymer
Wet combability data – conditioner application
Wet comb energy on bleached Caucasian hair
160000
Wet comb energy, g*mm
140000
120000
Commercial Intensive repair
conditioner
100000
Chassis (Cationic surfactant / Fatty
Alcohol)
80000
5 % N-DurHance A-1000 in Chassis
60000
2.5% N-DurHance A-1000 in chassis
with 2% Amodimethicone
40000
20000
0
rinse-off
1st wash
3rd wash
5th wash
N-DurHance A-1000 polymer enhances conditioning with washing
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Polymer used at 100% active.
N-DurHance™ A-1000 polymer
Consumer perceivable performance - salon study
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N-DurHance™ A-1000 polymer
Comparison to other conditioning polymers
Wet comb energy on bleached Caucasian hair - 0.5% N-Hance in
conditioner base
160000
140000
Wet comb energy, g*mm
120000
100000
80000
60000
40000
20000
0
Conditioner
application
0.5% N-DurHance A1000
1st shampoo
0.5% PQ-10
3rd shampoo
0.5% PQ-7
5th shampoo
0.5% PQ-11
0.5% PQ-55
In the first application the polymers perform equally, but N-DurHance A-1000 polymer provides the most
durable conditioning after multiple washes
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N-DurHance™ A-1000 polymer
Contact angle study demonstrating hydrophobicity on
treated bleached hair
140
Virgin Hair (dark
brown European)
Equilibrium Water Contact angle
120
100
80
Conditioner Chassis
+ 5% N-DurHance
A1000
60
Chassis + 5 % NDurHance A1000
+ 2x base Washed
40
20
Conditioner
Chassis
Bleached
Commercial
Intensive
conditioner
0
0
1
2
3
Time (min)
5
8
10
Hydrophobicity very close to the level of Virgin hair if using N-DurHance A-1000
polymer. Improved performance after 2 washes with non-conditioning shampoo
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N-DurHance™ A-1000 polymer
Improvement in long-lasting efficacy*- silicone deposition &
wet comb energy
0.7
Relative silicone surface level on
bleached Chinese hair after multiple
washes with Silicone-containing
shampoo
120
100
0.6
0.5
Comb energy /g
Relative silicone surface level RSSL
Wet comb energy on bleached Chinese
Hair, 0.2 g/g hair conditioner, 0.1 g/g hair
Commercial Silicone-containing shampoo
0.4
0.3
80
60
40
0.2
20
0.1
0
0
rinse off
x1 wash
x3 wash
x5 wash
Benchmark conditioner
2.5% N-DurHance A-1000 in Benchmark Conditioner
rinse off
x1 wash
x3 wash
x5 wash
Benchmark conditioner
2.5% N-DurHance A-1000 in Benchmark Conditioner
Adding 2,5% N-DurHance A-1000 polymer into a commercial conditioner improves silicone
deposition and decreases wet comb energy
*Shanghai R&D team study
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N-DurHance™ A-1000 polymer
Wet combability data – shampoo application
Wet comb energy on bleached Caucasian hair - Instron - 0.1
g/g hair shampoo
90000
ASI Salon
shampoo
Silicone-free
technologies
Intense repair
technologies
Sulfate-free
technologies
80000
1x wash
Comb energy, g*mm
70000
3x washes
60000
50000
40000
30000
20000
True 2 in 1 10000
Efficacy
0
1 % N-DurHance 1 % N-DurHance
A1000 + 0.4%
A1000 + 1%
Carbomer + 2%
Acrylates
Dimethiconol
Copolymer
Commercial
silicone-free
shampoo
Commercial
Commercial total Commercial total
Sulfate-free
silicone-free
repair shampoo repair shampoo + shampoo with 1 %
shampoo + 1 %
1 % N-DurHance
N-DurHance
N-DurHance
A1000
A1000
A1000
N-DurHance A-1000 polymer in shampoo enhances conditioning with washing in
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different kind of shampoo applications
N-DurHance™ A-1000 polymer
Build-up on hair study over multiple washes
There is NO polymer build-up on hair (liquid flow rate remains constant as compared with
untreated hair)
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N-DurHance™ A-1000 polymer
Summary
DURABLE repair to damaged hair
while maintaining:
• Long-lasting consumer perceivable
conditioning through multiple washes
The difference
• Hydrophobicity retention after multiple washes
to get very close to non-damaged virgin hair
• Consumer perceivable conditioning efficacy
• Ideal for formulating silicone-free conditioners
• Mechanistic Hypothesis via In-Situ Controlled
Flocculation (ISCF™) mechanism to post
entrap surfactants and / or silicone (if present)
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Formulations Available
Shampoos
• Durable Intensive moisturizing shampoo
• Silicone-free moisture softening shampoo
• Sulfate-free / Silicone-free conditioning
shampoo *
Daily conditioners
•
•
Silicone-free Hair Conditioner with Longlasting Effect
Silicone/CTAC-free Hair Conditioner with
Long-lasting Effect*
Intensive conditioners
•
•
•
Hair Mask with Long-lasting Effect
2 phase Detangling Spray
Combing Cream
All formulations have passed 3 months stability, preservative efficacy testing, and have
sensory testing results available
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Acknowledgements and contact
details
Work was conducted at the Ashland R&D Centre
for Hair Care, Zwijndrecht, Netherlands. Thanks
to:
• Tuttu Nuutinen, Research Scientist and Team
Leader Technical , EMEA
• Eric-Jan De Feij, Staff Scientist
• And their teams
Further information, copies of presentation and
samples of protypes, sachets and material please
contact Joanna Romanowicz, Sales Manager
CEE, Poland, jromanowicz@ashland.com, +48
603 517 382,)
or Dave Popplewell, global hair care marketing
(dpopplewell@ashland.com)
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