1.2 Fabric Analysis:
Purposes:
Get to know the fabric parameters
 Reasons for knowing the fabric parameters:
The properties of the fabric are closely linked to fabric parameters
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Ⅰ. Making samples
Ⅱ. Identification of face or back of the fabric
Ⅲ. Identification of warp and weft
Ⅳ. Density measurement
Ⅴ. Crimp measurement
Ⅵ. Linear density (tex) measurement
Ⅶ . Fiber identification
Ⅷ .Fabric weight
Ⅸ. Fabric structure and color arrangement
Ⅰ. Making samples
The sample should properly represent the
characteristics of the fabric.
Location:
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The sample should not be selected near the edge
of the fabric. The distance from the selvage must
be more than 5 centimeters, and that from the end
of the fabric must be more than 1.5 to 3 meters.
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Size:
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The size of the sample varies depending on the
characteristics of the fabric, 15cm ×15cm are
suitable for simple structure and small pattern
fabrics, and 20cm×20cm for fabrics with big
pattern.
Ⅱ. Identification of face or
back of the fabric
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The face of a fabric has a clear colour or patterns.
For rib or corded fabrics, the face are usually more
dense and smooth.
For pile fabrics, the face has piles.
For double fabrics, the face has higher density, and
better materials.
For terry fabrics, the face has denser loops.
Ⅲ. Identification of warp
and weft
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The warp is always parallel with selvage.
The warp may be sized, and the weft not.
The warp usually has a bigger density .
The warp direction may have reed marks.
The warp is more often using ply yarn.
Identification of warp and weft
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The Z-twist yarns are used for warp, and S-twist for weft
if the warp and weft are different in twist direction.
The warp usually has higher twisted yarns.
The warp is usually better in quality.
For terry fabrics, the warp forms the loops.
For striped fabrics, the warp is parallel to the stripes.
Warp can be easily arranged with different kinds of yarns.
Ⅳ. Density measurement

The density of the fabric is very important, as it
directly affects the fabric’s appearance, handle,
thickness, strength, warmth retention. There are
two ways to measure it.
a: Direct measurement
b: Indirect measurement

Direct measurement
Thread density=threads counted/2.5=threads per cm
Indirect measurement-woven fabric
This is carried out by using an optical device known as a taper
line grating.
Ⅴ. Crimp measurement
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Crimp refers to the amount of bending that is
done by a thread as it interlaces with the
threads that are lying in the opposite direction
of the fabric
ly  l f
 100
Formula: Crimp % (c) 
lf
Where: ly is the length of the yarn
lf is the length of the fabric
Crimp tester
Ⅵ .Linear density (tex)
measurement
The thread linear density indicates the
weight in gram of 1000m of thread
1000 G
Linear density (tex ) 
L
Where : G ─ The weight of the thread in gram at the official moisture
regain
L─ The length of the thread in meter
Ⅶ. Fiber identification
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a) Microscopically examination of the longitudinal and
cross-sectional views of the fiber.
b) Burning test
c) The use of solvents
d) Other chemical tests
e) Staining
f) Melting point determination
g) Fiber density
Ⅷ .Fabric weight
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Weighting measurement:
Mass per unit area(g/m2)=specimen mass (g) ×100
Where: mass per unit area is expressed in grams per square meter
specimen is 10cm×10cm
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Calculating measurement:
fabric weight is the sum of
the weight of warp and weft threads
Where:p1—warp density(ends/10cm)
p2--- weft density (picks/10cm)
a1--- warp take-up(%)
a2 --- weft take-up(%)
Tex1—warp linear density
Tex2–- weft linear density
Ⅸ. Fabric structure and
colour arrangement
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It is necessary to know the way in which the
fabric is constructed. For example, twill weave
or sateen. This can be obtained viewing the
fabric with a piece of magnifying glass or a low
magnification microscope.
Home work:
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Analyze the given samples, get all the
parameters you could.