Electric Strike Selection
and Installation
By: Michael D. Vorpahl, CRL
Capital Lock, Inc.
1302 Regent St.
Madison, WI 53715
Phone: 608-256-5625
Fax: 608-255-6977
www.capitalock.com
Electric
Strike
Selection
Determine Type of
lock Securing the
Door
A. Cylindrical
B. Mortise
C. Rim
Determine Type and
Material of door
A. Single Door
B. Double Door (with mullion or
without)
C. Wood
D. Metal
E. Aluminum
If the frame is for a double door –
does it have a mullion or no
mullion. Is the door fire rated.
Exterior doors do not require fire
rated strike. Aluminum doors are
not fire rated.
Determine Frame
Material
A. Wood
B. Metal
C. Aluminum
Is the frame fire rated and is
it an interior or exterior door.
Exterior doors do not require
fire rated strikes. Aluminum
doors are not fire rated. If
metal, is it filled or hollow
metal.
Determine Strike
Function
A. Fail Secure (strike returns
to the locked position when
power is removed).
B. Fail Safe (strike returns to
the unlocked position when
power is removed).
There are several other
options available. Here are
some examples. DSM – Door
status monitor, DPS – Door
Position Sensor, LM – Latch
Monitor
Determine the strike
voltage
A. 8-16 volt
B. 12 volt
C. 24 volt
Determine whether
it should be AC/DC
A. AC – When strike is activated it
will buzz allowing you to tell when
strike is unlocked
B. DC – When strike is activated it
just clicks.
Only DC voltage should be used
when activating strike for long
periods of time.
Now let’s get to
the process of
selecting the
correct electric
strike.
There are different
ways to determine
the correct strike
for the type of lock
and frame that you
have.
One of the easiest ways to
determine the strike you
want to use is to use a
reference chart.
If you already know what
strike you would like to
use but the job mandates
a particular brand, you
can use a cross reference
chart.
Here are some
examples.
Once you have
determined the
strike you want to
use, then you can
begin the
installation
process.
The first step in
the installation
process is to
determine the
vertical and
horizontal
centerline of the
latch / lock.
Follow instructions
for the strike used.
Horizontal Center
Once the horizontal center is
determined. Transfer across
the frame.
Verticle Center
Measure from the edge of
the door to the center of the
latch and transfer the
measurements to the frame.
Due to variances in
frames and doors
(warping, damage
or settling in the
building or wall) I
use the alignment
of the latching
edge of the latch
for alignment.
The best way I
have found to do
this is to use a
piece of paper and
insert it between
the door and the
frame to the latch
edge, not the dead
latch edge.
Mark the paper
along the edge of
the frame. Next
transfer that
measurement to
the frame.
Make the mark
long enough to
span the length of
the faceplate of
the strike
Find the latching edge
of the strikes keeper.
Position the face plate
on the frame, lining up
the latch edge of the
strike with the mark
made on the frame
indicating the edge of
the latch
Transfer the outline
of the faceplate to
the frame
Mark the keeper
pocket to the edge
and the face of the
frame.
Mark the locations
for drilling access
holes for the saw
blade.
I use the Makita
cordless
reciprocating saw.
It has the benefit
of a short stroke
and the
convenience of
being cordless.
You can use a
Dremel tool but
takes much more
time to complete.
Drill the holes
previously marked
(3/8”) and begin
cutting out the
area marked for
the electric strike
Remove the
material that was
cut out. Notice the
frame support
behind this area.
You will
occasionally
encounter
obstructions and
have to adjust your
cutting technique.
Once the area for
the electric strike
is cut out. File the
Edges smooth so
that no one cuts
themselves if the
strike needs to be
removed for any
reason.
Notice the area in
the back of the
cutout. This area
needs to be cutout
or removed to a
depth that will
accommodate the
strike.
The next step is to
mark and drill the
holes for the
mounting tabs.
Once this is done
you can then
mount the tabs
and then the
strike. Don’t
forget to
countersink the
holes so the screw
heads are flush
with the frame.
Now for the most
enjoyable part.
The joy of success!