INOA Class Handouts

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LAW OF COLOR
.1
B
.5
Rv
.7
Gr
.2
V
Natural
N
.6
R
*Dual Coding System
.3
G
.4
C
10
Very light
blonde
DEPTH
9
Light
blonde
8
Blonde
7
Dark
blonde
6
Light
Brown
5
Brown
4
Dark
Brown
3
Darkest
Brown
2
Brownish
Black
1
Black
N
Natural
TONE
B
Blue
.1
V
Violet
.2
G
Gold
.3
C
Copper
.4
Rv
Red-violet
.5
R
Red
.6
Gr
Green
.7
CODING SYSTEM
Example:
6GV
6.32
Level of color
Primary tone of color
Secondary tone of color
*0(N) first indicates no primary tone, only
secondary tone ex. 4.04 (4NC)
** 0 in the secondary position indicates
intensity ex. 4.40 (4CCC)
Application and Development Time
DEVELOPMENT TIME: 35 minutes
Application:
Mix according to instructions
Take fine sections
35 min.
Paint INOA onto the re-growth area starting from the bottom of the
quadrant moving to the top of the head
Make sure the color lays flat on the scalp
Saturate the top and bottom of each section
Development time starts when re-growth application is complete
When taking through mid-lengths/ends, do not add water
Mid-Lengths and Ends
TAKE THROUGH (without adding water)
CHANGE OF COLOR/FIRST TIME
USING INOA
= take through immediately/TTI
35 min.
COLOR REFRESH
= take through half-way through
development time/TT15
20 min.
15 min.
30 min.
5 min.
NO COLOR CHANGE
= take through 5 minutes before
end of the development time/TT5
Note: Development time starts when re-growth application is complete.
Covering White
FORMULATING FOR WHITE HAIR
Up to
70%
2 tubes of the target shade
Over
70%
1 tube of the target shade
1 tube of the natural shade at the same level
On Mid-Lengths/Ends:
Target shade only
COLOR IN (Pre-coloration)
METHOD 1: TO DARKEN 3 LEVELS OR MORE
OR ON VERY SENSITIZED HAIR
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Choose relevant pre-coloration shade.
Mix with Oleo Gel and Rich Developer.
Apply to lightened sensitized areas.
Develop for between 1-25 minutes
according to pre-coloration chart.
Emulsify (dry and wet), rinse, shampoo
and dry the hair.
Apply target shade to the re-growth area.
Set timer for 35 minutes.
Take through immediately (TTI).
Emulsify (dry and wet), rinse, shampoo
and dry the hair.
1 – 25 minutes
35 minutes
Color In (Precoloration)
Cool
Target Level
(Cools, Ashes (.1, .2, .7), Naturals
Gold)
Warm
Time
(Warms, Copper, Red-Violet, Red)
9
Light Blonde
8
Blonde
Underlying
Pigment
Yellow
8.3
1 – 10 minutes
8.34
Orange Yellow
7
Dark Blonde
Orange
6
Light Brown
Red-Orange
5
Brown
6.34
10 – 20
minutes
6.46
4
Dark Brown
3
Darkest
Brown
2
Brown-Black
1
Black
Red
Red
Red
4.56
4.56
Red
15 – 25
minutes
Red
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