SPINNING NORMS
Prof. R. Chattopadhyay
IIT, Delhi
Table 1 Cotton fibre characteristics for
different yarn counts
Yarn
Count
(Nm)
< 16
16-23
24-32
Cotton
Variety
Staple
length
(mm)
2.5%
SL (mm)
UR
(%)
Finene
ss
(Mic)
Tenacity
g/tex
Trash
(%)
Deshi,
< 20
Wagad,
Striping &
Comber
waste
16.8 –
48 -
4.7-
16.2-
3- 10
22.1
53
7.4
21.9
Wagad,
Virnar,
Jayadhar
&
Stripping
21.5 -
48 -
20 - 23
Virnar,
22 - 24
AK-235,
Gaorani,
J-34, CJ73, Y-1, V797, F-414
23.4
23.226.1
53
4652
4.6 –
5.2
3.95.2
1 5.0 -
5-10
21.9
16.9 24.0
3 - 10
Yarn
Count
(Nm)
33-42
43-52
53-62
Cotton
Variety
Staple
length
(mm)
2.5%
SL
(mm)
UR
(%)
Finene Tenacity
ss
g/tex
(Mic)
Trash
(%)
J-34, CJ16.973, Y-1, V- 24
797, F-414,
A-51/9
18.1F-414, A51/9, SRT- 22.2
1, 1007,
Laxmi,
Shankar-4
(B), JKHY1
23.226.1
46- 52
3.85.2
16.924.0
3- 10
23.429.5
44.649.4
3.64.6
18.122.2
6- 8
Digvijay,
co2, SRT1, 1007,
Laxmi,
Shankar-4
(B)
23.729.5
44.649.0
3.54.6
18.122.2
6-7
-
Yarn
Count
(Nm)
Cotton
Variety
Staple
length
(mm)
2.5%
SL
(mm)
UR
(%)
Finene Tenacity
ss
g/tex
(Mic)
Trash
(%)
1007,
Laxmi,
Shankar-4
(A), (B) &
(E),
American
1.1/8
Shankar-4 (A), MCU-5
(A) & (B),
Varalaxmi
(B) Sudan
GI, Sudan
GS
26.329.5
44.649.4
3.64.0
18.222.2
6-7
25.634.9
45.749.0
2.84.0
21.228.3
21.228.3
103-137 Varalaxmi (A) & (B),
MCU-5
(A),(Sudan
GS, Giza68)
25.834.9
4250
2.84.0
21.228.3
5-6
63-70
71-102
Yarn
Count
(Nm)
Cotton
Variety
Staple
length
(mm)
2.5%
SL
(mm)
UR
(%)
Finene Tenacity
ss
g/tex
(Mic)
Trash
(%)
138-170 Varalaxmi
(A), Suvin
(Giza-45)
-
3537.4
4549.5
2.7-3.1 30.1-32.6 3
170 and Suvin
above
(Giza-45)
41.0
37.6
49.5
2.7-3.0 30.8-33.0 2
Note: These are only indicative values. The characteristics are variable
from year to year.
Source: CIRCOT, Mumbai; KVIC, Mumbai.
Table 2 Properties of polyester to be blended with cotton for
different end-uses
End-uses
Yarn count
group (Nm)
Length
(mm)
Fineness
(den)
Tenacity
(g/ den)
Shirting
and sarees
70 -100
38- 44
1.2
4.5- 6.0
Suiting
2/50- 2/70
38- 44
1.5
4.5 - 5.5
Table 3 Norm for yarn count CV%
Metric count group
Count CV%
Cotton
Coarser (Up to 24)
Medium (24 to 70)
Finer (Above 70)
10
8
6
Polyvastra
For all count groups
6
Table 4 Norms for yarn CSP
Lea dimensions
Metric count
group (Nm)
Cotton
Below 6
6 – 16
16 – 24
24 – 36
36 – 50
50 – 70
70 – 85
85 – 100
100–140
Above 140
Polyvastra
Below 36
36 – 70
70 – 100
100 -140
80 threads, 120 yard
Normal
Superior
(Nm  Kg)
(Nm  Kg)
100 threads, 100m
Normal
Superior
(Nm  Kg)
(Nm  Kg)
*
750
950
1000
1050
1150
1200
1500
1520
1450
*
900
1050
1100
1200
1270
1300
1650
1700
1550
*
900
1140
1200
1260
1380
1440
1800
1820
1740
*
1080
1260
1320
1520
1520
1560
1980
2040
1860
*
2080
2080
*
*
2280
2150
*
*
2500
2500
*
*
2740
2580
*
Table 5 Norm for CSP CV%
Metric count group
CSP CV%
Cotton
12
Polyvastra
12
Table 6 Norms for yarn unevenness values (U%)
Metric count group
Unevenness (U%)
Cotton
For all count groups
22
Polyvastra
For all count groups
19
Table 7 Imperfections in khadi yarn
Metric count
group
Total
Imperfections
(Nos / Km)
Thick Places
(Nos/Km)
Thin Places
(Nos/Km)
Neps
(Nos/Km)
Cotton
Below 6
6 – 16
16 – 24
24 – 36
36 – 50
50 – 70
70 – 85
85 – 100
100–140
Above 140
*
*
*
4700
5800
8300
*
*
*
7700
*
*
*
1600
1700
2500
*
*
*
2100
*
*
*
1600
1600
2450
*
*
*
2500
*
*
*
1250
2100
2600
*
*
*
2900
Polyvastra
Below 36
36 – 70
70 – 100
100 -140
*
3800
*
*
*
1400
*
*
*
930
*
*
*
1600
*
*
Table 8 Appearance grade for khadi yarn
Metric count group
Cotton
Up to 16
16 to 36
Above 36
Polyvastra
For all count groups
Appearance grade
D
D or D+
D or C
C
Table 9 Norm for twist in the yarn
Metric count
group
Cotton
Below 6
6 – 16
16 – 24
24 – 36
36 – 50
50 – 70
70 – 85
85 – 100
100–140
Above 140
Polyvastra
Below 36
36 – 70
70 – 100
100 -140
Minimum
twist
(Turns/inch)
Maximum
twist
(Turns/inch)
Minimum
twist
(Turns/cm)
Maximum
twist
(Turns/cm)
*
11.0
15.0
19.0
20.5
23.0
26.0
25.0
32.0
38.0
*
15.0
19.0
22.0
25.0
27.0
30.0
39.0
40.0
50.0
*
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
13
15
*
6
7
9
10
11
12
15
16
20
*
20.0
23.0
*
*
23.0
26.0
*
*
8
9
*
*
9
10
*
Table 10 BIS Norms of some cotton khadi fabrics
(Constructional parameters and property)
Types of
Fabric
Metric Count
of Yarn (Nm
Warp
Thread Density
Weft
Ends/cm Picks/cm
14
16
(Double) (Double)
Bed sheets
(Bleached)
27
27
Bunting
Cloth
(Dyed)
17
14
14
30
30
16
Pugre Cloth
(Bleached
or Dyed)
Mass
g/m2
Breaking load (on
10x20 cm strip, N
Warp
Weft
190
490
390
13
190
450
330
16
110
334
294
Types of
Fabric
Metric Count
of Yarn (Nm
Warp
Weft
a) 14
a) 14
b) 14
b) 10
c) 17
c) 17
d) 24
d) 20
e) 34
e) 34
Long
Cloth
(Bleached)
27
20
Dosuti
(Bleached
or Dyed)
a) 27
a) 27
b) 20
b) 17
Honey
Comb and
Huck-aBack
Towels
(Bleached)
Thread Density
Ends/cm Picks/cm
Mass
g/m2
Breaking load (on
10x20 cm strip, N
Warp
Weft
11
(Double)
11
(Double)
8
(Double)
18
(Double)
11
(Double)
9
(Double)
7
(Double)
8
(Double)
13
(Double)
9
(Double)
360
450
430
325
620
530
198
450
450
290
1200
660
218
630
530
17
17
160
392
372
205
760
660
260
800
660
14
13
(Double) (Double)
12
11
(Double) (Double)
Types of
Fabric
Napkins
and Table
Cloth
(Bleached)
Metric Count
of Yarn (Nm
Warp
Weft
Thread Density
Ends/cm Picks/cm
a) 27
a) 27
14
13
(Double) (Double)
17
17
b) 27
b) 20
Dungri
Cloth
(Bleached)
17
17
13
Dusters
(Bleached)
17
14
Lining
Cloth
(Dyed)
Sheeting
Cloth
(Bleached)
20
20
Mass
g/m2
Breaking load (on
10x20 cm strip, N
Warp
Weft
205
760
660
160
390
370
12
180
390
370
13
12
170
450
430
17
16
14
185
450
430
20
16
16
170
450
450
Types of
Fabric
Sponge
Cloth
(Grey)
Metric Count
of Yarn (Nm
Warp
200/2
Weft
14 or
7
Thread Density
Ends/cm Picks/cm
9
9
Tolerance percentage for thread density = ±1
Method of test:
1. Thread density: IS 1963: 1981
2. Mass (g/m2)- IS 1964:1970,
3. Breaking load- IS 1969:1985
Mass
g/m2
90
Breaking load (on
10x20 cm strip, N
Warp
-
Weft
-
Table 11 Constructional parameters and physical
property of additional khadi fabrics
Types of
Fabric
Kurta,
pajama &
salwar suit
Dhoti
Saree
Metric count
Range
Thread density
(per cm)
Range
GSM
(g/m2)
Yarn
count used
(Nm)
Warp
Weft
Warp
Weft
20-30
24- 27
20- 27
17- 21
11- 14
119- 138
30-50
31- 49
29- 47
16- 29
14- 21
95- 148
50-80
52
52
37
26
125
80-100
-
-
-
-
-
Above 100
101- 126
108- 165
37- 61
40- 44
59- 107
Medium
40- 59
51- 58
20- 25
16- 23
82- 90
Superfine
108- 145
105- 140
33- 35
27- 51
59- 63
Medium
50
54
20
16
74
Fine
83
82
36
26
78
Superfine
102- 141
115- 150
28- 32
22- 32
43- 45
Types of
Fabric
Kurta,
pajama
& salwar
suit
Dhoti
Saree
Yarn count
used
(Nm)
Breaking
Strength (N)
Range
Elongation %
Range
Warp
Weft
Warp
Weft
20-30
120- 235
95- 170
7- 10
10- 14
30-50
140- 330
125- 210
8- 18
8- 27
50-80
245
210
11
11
80-100
-
-
-
-
Above 100
110- 305
170- 225
8-9
8- 9
Medium
165- 200
95- 190
11- 12
10- 17
Superfine
120- 125
135- 205
11- 13
8-9
Medium
160
140
7
12
Fine
235
190
12
9
Superfine
140- 160
140- 145
6-9
5- 7
Types of
Fabric
Kurta,
pajama &
salwar suit
Dhoti
Saree
Yarn
count used
(Nm)
Tearing strength
(Kg) Range
Fabric dimensions
(cm) Range
No of
samples
tested
Warp
Weft
Width
Length
20-30
1-3
1-2.5
88-89
-
3
30-50
1-3.5
1-2
84-107
-
9
50-80
2
2
-
-
1
80-100
-
-
-
-
0
Above 100
0.5-1
0.5-1.5
-
-
2
Medium
1-2
1-2
105-112
350-380
3
Superfine
0.5-1
0.5-1.5
120-124
394-400
2
Medium
2.5
2.5
110
588
1
Fine
0.5
0.5
114
504
1
Superfine
0.5-1
0.5-1
115-120
520-532
2
Types of
Fabric
Shirting
Coating
Lungi
Metric count
Range
Thread density
(per cm)
Range
GSM
(g/m2)
Yarn count
used
(Nm)
Warp
Weft
Warp
Weft
Med/coarse
31-32
7
18-19
9-10
221-223
Medium
35-39
40-45
18-26
14-19
97-124
Fine/coarse
70
13
21
10
133
Fine
69
65
34
35
114
Fine/superfine
95
108
30
44
88
Superfine
141-155
100-172
57-87
50-73
75-113
Bundy
28-43
4-9
14-26
8-9
197-275
Pant
10
11
26
11
408
Med/coarse
26
15
18
12
160
Medium
27-41
27-48
18-23
12-19
107-124
Fine
61
70
26
19
83
Superfine
101
96
34
27
68
Types of
Fabric
Shirting
Coating
Lungi
Breaking
Strength (N)
Range
Elongation %
Range
Yarn count
used
(Nm)
Warp
Weft
Warp
Weft
Med/coarse
215-220
185-200
15-17
9-12
Medium
210-250
100-240
8-10
12-19
Fine/coarse
100
210
14
8
Fine
160
220
10
12
Fine/superfine
140
190
10
10
Superfine
200-235
205-305
9-15
9-11
Bundy
160-260
195-370
12-24
11-15
Pant
1110
520
14
11
Med/coarse
240
250
26
19
Medium
225-230
145-175
14-15
8-16
Fine
170
135
14
8
Superfine
140
140
14
8
Types of
Fabric
Shirting
Coating
Lungi
Yarn count
used
(Nm)
Med/coarse
Tearing strength
(Kg) Range
Fabric dimensions
(cm) Range
Warp
Weft
Width
Length
No of
samples
tested
4-4.5
2.5-3
91-98
-
2
Medium
1-2.5
0.5-1.5
83-84
-
3
Fine/coarse
2
1
90
-
1
Fine
1
1
89
-
1
Fine/superfine
1
0.5
100
-
1
Superfine
1-3
0.5-3.5
91-100
-
3
Bundy
3-4.5
2.5-4
72-87
-
4
Pant
2
3
87
-
1
Med/coarse
2.5
4
110
218
1
Medium
1-1.5
2-4
108-116
204-230
2
Fine
3
2
125
176
1
Superfine
1
1
125
176
1
Types of
Fabric
Towel
Thread density
(per cm)
Range
GSM
(g/m2)
Yarn count
used
(Nm)
Warp
Weft
Warp
Weft
Turkish
18-19
27-42
26-27
16-19
231-239
Honey comb
19-39
10-38
25-32
15-24
164-311
Huck-a-back
7
5
8
8
467
19-32
5-35
14-26
8-17
141-262
Double
thread
Med/coarse
29-37
33-41
19-29
13-26
130-178
25-36
13-18
17-21
12-17
148-178
Medium
55
56
24
18
77
Fine/medium
64
51
24
19
86
Bed sheets Single thread
Gamchha
Metric count
Range
Types of
Fabric
Towel
Bed
sheets
Gamchha
Breaking
Strength (N)
Range
Elongation %
Range
Yarn count
used
(Nm)
Warp
Weft
Warp
Weft
Turkish
275-295
135-175
12-15
6-8
Honey comb
280-900
170-805
13-25
17-19
Huck-a-back
315
145
20
14
Single thread
190-290
185-340
11-17
12-17
Double thread
120-285
60-260
7-13
8-15
Med/coarse
205-340
160-320
18-22
12-18
Medium
135
115
13
10
Fine/medium
120
265
14
10
Types of
Fabric
Towel
Bed
sheets
Gamchha
Tearing strength
(Kg) Range
Fabric dimensions
(cm) Range
Warp
Weft
Width
Length
No of
samples
tested
Turkish
3.5-4
3-3.5
67-68
128-136
2
Honey comb
4-4.5
3-3.5
65-73
128-164
3
Huck-a-back
BC
BC
67
136
1
Single thread
BC
BC
126-142
230-260
3
Double thread
1.5-4
2-3.5
200-222
250-300
3
Med/coarse
1.5-5
1-4
75-76
160-165
2
Medium
1.5
1
90
152
1
Fine/medium
1.5
1.5
90
308
1
Yarn count
used
(Nm)
Types of
Fabric
Metric count
Range
Thread density
(per cm)
Range
GSM
(g/m2)
Yarn count
used
(Nm)
Warp
Weft
Warp
Weft
2/34
33-34
30-31
16-29
12-16
100-143
14
24
17
26
19
225
Single
20-32
3-9
12-26
7-9
200-367
Double
5-6
4-6
13-14
7-8
484-489
Loom
2-20
1-5
2-7
6-30
514-937
Dari
Punja
2
1
17
3
1446
Polyvastra
Coating
Dosuti
26
23-26
25-27
15-17
171-182
Single
53-60
43-56
27
19-22
97-102
Shirting
Double
22-46
22-49
18-41
17-28
131-168
Curtain
Khes
Types of
Fabric
Breaking
Strength (N)
Range
Elongation %
Range
Yarn count
used
(Nm)
Warp
Weft
Warp
Weft
2/34
205-415
175-215
6-8
2-19
14
235
290
13
15
Single
140-350
120-425
10-12
10-14
Double
210-265
115-155
15-16
11-14
Loom
100-210
635-1015
5-10
16-27
Dari
Punja
970
475
BC
BC
Polyvastra
Coating
Dosuti
1060-1090
650-770
15-18
14-22
Single
400-405
230-415
10-13
14-26
Shirting
Double
580-820
405-655
12-18
16-18
Curtain
Khes
Tearing strength
(Kg) Range
Fabric dimensions
(cm) Range
Warp
Weft
Width
Length
No of
samples
tested
Types of
Fabric
Yarn count
used
(Nm)
Curtain
2/34
3-4.5
3-3.5
85-124
-
2
14
BC
BC
80
-
1
Single
BC
BC
120-125
220-225
3
Double
4-4.5
3-3.5
120-128
245-256
2
Loom
BC
BC
92-117
192-200
3
Dari
Punja
BC
BC
131
208
1
Polyvastra
Coating
Dosuti
3.5-4.5
3-4
71-72
-
2
Single
1-2
1-2
117
-
2
Shirting
Double
4-4.5
3-3.5
73-90
-
4
Khes
BC: Indicates beyond the capacity of the machine
Table 12 Productivity of cotton yarn (gm/spl hr)
Sl No.
Count (Nm)
Production
(gm/spl hr)
1
6
62
2
14
42
3
35
12-13
4
45
12-13
5
50
12-13
6
80
7-8
7
100
7-8
8
150
2.5
Table 13 Productivity of cotton yarn (No. of hanks per 8 hour)
Count (Nm)
Production (No. of
hanks per 8 hour)
Coarse
35-38
Medium
32-35
Fine
30-32
Table 14 Productivity of cotton fabric [production/hr (mts)]
Metric count
Thread density
(Per inch)
Warp
Weft
Production
(mts/hr)
Warp
Weft
Grey width
(Inches)
Pajama
(Dosuti)
35/2
35/2
36
80
70
0.7
Pajama
(Eksuti)
35
35
36
48
44
0.8
Shirting
40
40
45
40
40
1
Shirting
40
40
36
50
46
0.75
Shirting
40
40
36
48
48
0.7
Shirting
44
44
54
40
36
1
Shirting
100/2
100/2
36
60
54
0.5
Shirting
60
60
45
60
54
1
Shirting
60
60
40
48
46
0.8
Types of
fabric
Metric count
Thread density
(Per inch)
Weft
Grey width
(Inches)
Warp
Weft
Production
(mts/hr)
60
60
45
56
54
0.75
Shirting
100
100
45
76
72
1
Shirting
100
100
45
76
45
0.75
Shirting
100
100
45
76
72
0.6
Shirting
100
100
36
76
72
0.7
Shirting
(Checks)
100
100
36
60
55
0.5
Bed
Sheet
(Do Suti)
35/2
35/2
48
80
72
0.7
Bed
Sheet
26/2
4
60
30
30
1.2
Bed
Sheet
(Twill)
30/2
4
60
30
30
1
Types of
fabric
Warp
Shirting
Metric count
Thread density
(Per inch)
Weft
Grey width
(Inches)
Warp
Weft
Production
(mts/hr)
32/2
32/2
34
40
36
1
Coating
56/2
56/2
38
56
50
0.9
Coating
(Poly)
70/3
70/3
34
56
50
0.8
Coating
(Poly)
70/3
70/3
34
56
50
1.5
Coating
(Bundy)
32
32
28
40
40
1
Denim
10
10
34
128
42
0.4
Dari
(3*6)
20/6
4/4
36
10
10
0.3
Dari
(9*12)
20/9
6/4
144
7
8
0.3
Dhoti
100
100
50
80
76
0.8
Dhoti
60
60
54
50
46
1
Types of
fabric
Warp
Coating
Metric count
Thread density
(Per inch)
Warp
Weft
Production
(mts/hr)
Warp
Weft
Grey width
(Inches)
Saree
(Plain)
Saree
(Colour)
100
100
45
60
56
0.6
100
100
45
80
75
0.4
Saree
(Patta)
Saree
with
Border
60
60
45
40
45
1
60
60
45
40
40
0.7
Lungi
40
40
45
48
46
0.8
Lungi
60
60
45
40
40
0.7
Lungi
(Colour)
34
34
46
40
40
1
Towel
(Mat)
20/2
34/2
36
34
34
1
Dupatta
56
56
36
40
38
1
Types of
fabric
Essential Test Equipments Required for
Routine Quality Checking
Fibre
Sl
No.
Name of the
Instrument
Property
assessed
BIS
Standard
1
Baer sorter
Fibre length
IS 10014 (Part
1): 1984
2
Fibre fineness tester
Fibre fineness
(Micronaire
value)
IS 3674: 1966
3
Wrap reel for
sliver/roving
Sliver / roving
count
-
Yarn
Sl
No.
Name of the
Instrument
Property
assessed
BIS
Standard
1
Wrap reel
Lea formation
-
2
Lea strength tester
IS 1671: 1977
3
Twist tester (Single
& double yarn)
4
Yarn board winder
Lea strength
(CSP)
The amount of
twist per cm or
inch
Appearance
grading of yarn
IS 832: 1985
IS 1671: 1977
Fabric
Sl
No.
Name of the
Instrument
Property to be
measured
BIS
Standard
1
Pick glass
Thread density
IS 1963: 1981
2
Measuring tape
Length & width
-
3
Fabric strength
tester
Strength
4
Round cutter
GSM
IS 1969: 1985
-
Chemical processing
Sl
No.
Name of the
Instrument
Property to be BIS Standard
measured
1
Light fastness
tester
Light fastness
IS 2454: 1985
2
Launderometer
Washing fastness
IS 687, IS 3361,
IS 764, IS 765,
IS 3417
3
Crockmeter
Rubbing fastness
IS 105
4
Shrinkage
Template
Dimensional
changes
5
Spectrophotometer Whiteness
measurement
IS 10099: 1982
-