SIB20210 Certificate II in Nail Technology SIB30110 Certificate III in Beauty Services WRB20104 SIB40110 Certificate IV in Beauty Therapy SIB50110 Diploma of Beauty Therapy BLENDED DELIVERY LEARNING AND ASSESSMENT MATERIAL WRBCS201B – PROVIDE MANICURE AND PEDICURE SERVICES SIBBNLS202A Provide Manicure and Pedicare services DEMONSTRATION UNIT DELIVERY STYLE - complete unit contains 50 pages Initial Impact P/L Initial Impact P/L PO Box 301301 PO Box Balnarring Balnarring3926 3926 ABN 37 920920 ABN 37006 006210 210 Student name:.............................................................. Student ID:................................................. Date:............................................. Student name:.............................................................. Student ID:................................................. Provide manicure and pedicare services Date:............................................. 1 SIBBNLS202A Provide manicure and pedicare services This unit describes the performance outcomes, skills and knowledge required to perform a range of manicure and pedicare services. The manicure or pedicure is performed in response to client consultation and assessment, conducted and recorded on a treatment plan. This unit contains employability skills. Application of the unit. This unit applies to services offered in nail salons and beauty salons in the beauty industry. The manicure or pedicare service could be an individual treatment or form part of a series of manicure or pedicure treatments that have been designed to meet client requirements. The unit applies to nail technicians and other beauty workers who interpret observations and information, and follow known routines in order to plan and perform manicure and pedicure services that meet client requirements. Performance criteria covered within this training programme 1.1,1.2,1.3,1.4,1.5,2.1,2.2,2.3,2.4,2.5,2.6,2.7,2.8,2.9,3.1,3.2,3.3,3.4,3.5 Provide manicure and pedicare services 2 Student assessment guide FORMATIVE TASKS. Formatives are activities located throughout the learning material which you need to complete and submit to your trainer for comments. They allow you to continually demonstrate your ability to perform the required skills and knowledge for this unit. SUMMATIVE ASSESSMENTS. The summative assessment uses the performance criteria, range statement, critical evidence and employability skills as the checklist for demonstration of the required skills and knowledge. Your trainer will deem you either competent or not yet competent based on your performance in the summative. There are three summative assessments for this unit. ASSESSMENT A. CONDUCT A FULL MANICURE PROCEDURE. OBSERVATION ASSESSMENT You are required to conduct a full manicure service with client treatment plan being completed before and after the service. You will be assessed on demonstration of your skills and knowledge to perform the procedure correctly. ASSESSMENT B. CONDUCT A FULL PEDICARE PROCEDURE. OBSERVATION ASSESSMENT You are required to conduct a full pedicare service with client treatment plan being completed before and after the service. You will be assessed on demonstration of your skills and knowledge to perform the procedure correctly. ASSESSMENT C. VERBAL KNOWLEDGE QUESTIONS. Your trainer will ask you questions verbally which you are to answer verbally. Provide manicure and pedicare services 3 Skin on hand and feet The depth of the epidermal layer of the skin is thickest on the soles of the feet and on the palms of the hand. The skin is thinnest on the eyelids. The soles of the feet and palms of the hands do not contain hair follicles, have few sweat glands but have a high amount of nerve receptors. The back of the hands suffer from being exposed to ultra-violet radiation from the sun. The hands show premature ageing such as wrinkles, dry rough texture and uneven colours spots known as solar keratosis. Lifestyle choices influence the appearance of the skin on the hand and feet and most of us neglect to take care of our hands and feet. In your work as a nail technician you will see a wide variety of skin conditions. As a general rule, if the skin is broken, inflamed or infected it is best not to provide a manicure or pedicare service. Several treatments of the hands and feet can improve the circulation and blood supply which helps maintain the health and condition of the skin and nails. Increased blood supply and nourishment will improve nail strength, assist in the prevention of splitting and allows the nails to grow longer. When applying a paraffin wax treatment, the heat encourages the blood vessels to dilate allowing blood cells to move freely around the skin. The nerve endings are stimulated to enhance the skin’s tissue. Physically massaging the hands and feet increases circulation as well as relaxing the muscles. Increased blood circulation stimulates cell production leading to improved skin condition. Provide manicure and pedicare services 4 Nail growth •Nails grow faster in summer than in any other season. •Nail growth is faster in children and slows with age. •Growth rates vary. The middle finger grows the fastest while the thumb grows the slowest. •Nails grow faster in males than in females. •Nails grow faster in daytime. •Nails on the dominant hand grow slightly faster than the other hand. •Vitamins, calcium and gel cannot stimulate nail growth. •Damage to the cuticle can interrupt nail growth producing a Manicure consultation ridge or mark on the surface of the new nail. •Contrary to popular belief, nails do not continue to grow after death; the skin dehydrates and tightens, making the nails (and hair) appear to grow. Increases nail growth Decreases nail growth Trauma Ageing Youth Infection Length of finger Malnutrition Warm temperatures Genetics Pregnancy Diabetes Use of hands Smoking Nail biting Injury Buffing Breast feeding Provide manicure and pedicare services 5 Functions and features of nails Nails are tightly packed, hard cells of the epidermal layer of the skin. They replace the epidermis on the tips of fingers and toes but are continuous with it so that bacteria and micro-organisms cannot enter the body. Healthy nails are shiny and translucent pink due to the blood capillaries underneath. The surface is made up of tiny longitudinal ridges which form as the nails grow. The technical terms for them is onyx. Functions of the nail. •To protect the end of the fingers and toes. •Grasping and manipulating objects in various ways. •Increasing the sensitivity to feel and touch. •Acting as defence tools. •Image. Variety of nail shapes Nail structure Provide manicure and pedicare services 6 Nail and skin conditions requiring special treatment Corns and calluses. These are caused by friction and pressure when the bony parts of the feet rub against shoes. Calluses are bigger than corns and are usually found on the sole of the foot, either around the heel or around the front of the foot at the base of the first and fourth toes. Corns are smaller and often have a central core of keratin. The top of the fifth toe is the most common site for a corn. Solar Lentiginoses. These are caused through exposure to the sun’s rays. They are sharply defined, rounded, brown or black, flat patches of skin which appear individually or in clusters. The epidermis expands with more pigment and becomes hyperpigmented, developing a look like dark freckles. Skin exposed to the sun might be precancerous however dark spots may be cancerous so you should recommend that your client sees a doctor. Solar Keratoses is also known as actinic keratoes. These are dry, scaly, rough-textured patches that form on the outermost layer of the skin after years of exposure to the sun. Their colour ranges from skin toned to reddish brown and range in size from a pin head to larger than a thumb nail. Occasionally, a lesion grows to resemble an animal horn and is called a ‘cutaneous horn’. Eczema. This is a general term for describing various inflamed skin conditions. The most common form is called ‘dermatitis’. In some people the eczema will ‘bubble up’ and ooze a liquid. In others, it is seen as scaly, red and dry skin. The condition appears to be an abnormal response of the body’s immune system. It is irritating and itchy, causing the person to scratch the affected area making it worse. Eczema is not contagious and can be managed with treatment. Onychosis is the term used for any deformity or disease of the nails. Provide manicure and pedicare services 7 Applying Occupational Health and Safety procedures Infections can be spread between the client and operator and from client to client if the instruments used have not been thoroughly cleaned and disinfected between clients. In particular you must be aware of; •Relevant federal, state and local heath and hygiene legislation and regulations. •Occupational safety and health legislation and regulations including skin penetration legislation. Washing client’s hands and feet. A client’s hands and feet must be washed prior to a treatment commencing. Use a one-use towel. Cleaning instruments. Any instrument or part of an instrument used on a client should be cleaned with detergent and warm water, disinfectant and dried before being used on another client. For single use instruments, it is recommended that they are discarded after each client use. •Single use chamois buffers – one for each client. •Disposable cuticle sticks are recommended. •Re-useable cuticle sticks and cutters should be washed, disinfected and stored dry. •Avoid using nail brushes as they may damage the skin leaving it open to infection. •Burrs used for buffing should be cleaned between clients. •Single use nail files are recommended. Re-useable nail files should be cleaned and disinfected between clients. •Bowls used to soak the hands and feet should be cleaned and dried between each client use. •Waste removal must follow relevant legislation, workplace policies and environmental concerns. •Nail technician should only use disinfectants specified by the Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods (ARTG) for the approved purpose and for the time specified by the manufacturer. FORMATIVE 3. SEARCH FOR YOUR STATE HEALTH AND HYGIENE REGULATIONS. DOCUMENT Write an explanation of how these regulations relate to manicures and pedicures? Submit your document to your facilitator. Provide manicure and pedicare services 8 Procedure techniques Cuticle massage cream Polish removal Polish application Nail shaping Provide manicure and pedicare services 9 MANICURE PROCEDURE 1. Application of antibacterial spray Commence by applying any personal protection equipment that is required according to State or Territory regulations or workplace policies and using hand cleanser, spray or gel, to ensure hand cleanliness. Using a 70% alcohol swab or cotton wool ball soaked in the appropriate antiseptic, commence application. Starting with the elbow, use firm pressure and wipe the skin clean finishing at the fingertips. Soak another cotton swab and repeat on the other arm. This prevents cross infection. Dry hand thoroughly and place on them on the towel. 2. Inspection Check the hands and nails thoroughly for any contraindications, which may prohibit the manicure procedure. Advise the client to consult their doctor if any irregularities are present. 3. Remove nail enamel Using the finger rotation method – starting with the right hand, roll a ball of cotton wool to remove any present. If not leave out cotton fibres, soak it in polish remover and squeeze out excess. Hold the cotton ball between the index this step and middle fingers and place firmly over the client’s right thumb until the enamel begins to dissolve. Wipe down towards the free edge and the nail plate should be clean. Any left over enamel around the cuticle wall can be removed with an orange stick tipped with cotton wool and dipped in remover. Repeat on the left hand. Reinspect the client’s nails as contraindications may have been hidden by enamel. 4. Nail filing and shaping Discuss with the client the nail shape that is best suited to them. Their occupation and recreational activities should be considered when determining the length of the nails. If the client’s nails are too long and need trimming, use curved manicure scissors or nail clippers. When using nail clippers, trim the two sides first and then across the free edge. This will not damage the nail plate. Dispose of nail clippings immediately in the bin. Using the finger rotation method, start shaping the nails of the right hand. Holding the end of the emery board with the thumb and the index finger at a 45 degree angle, file the nail from side to centre and gently across the free edge in one direction. Do not file back and forth as this may cause discomfort and splitting of the nail layers. The heat produced dries up the moisture within the layers which may also cause flaking. Filing too deep into the corners causes in-growing nails, weakens the sides of nails and can cause breakages. Always use an abrasive, no coarser than 240 grit. Provide manicure and pedicare services 10 MANICURE PROCEDURE 1. Application of antibacterial spray Commence by applying any personal protection equipment that is required according to State or Territory regulations or workplace policies and using hand cleanser, spray or gel, to ensure hand cleanliness. Using a 70% alcohol swab or cotton wool ball soaked in the appropriate antiseptic, commence application. Starting with the elbow, use firm pressure and wipe the skin clean finishing at the fingertips. Soak another cotton swab and repeat on the other arm. This prevents cross infection. Dry hand thoroughly and place on them on the towel. 2. Inspection Check the hands and nails thoroughly for any contraindications, which may prohibit the manicure procedure. Advise the client to consult their doctor if any irregularities are present. 3. Remove nail enamel Using the finger rotation method – starting with the right hand, roll a ball of cotton wool to remove any present. If not leave out cotton fibres, soak it in polish remover and squeeze out excess. Hold the cotton ball between the index this step and middle fingers and place firmly over the client’s right thumb until the enamel begins to dissolve. Wipe down towards the free edge and the nail plate should be clean. Any left over enamel around the cuticle wall can be removed with an orange stick tipped with cotton wool and dipped in remover. Repeat on the left hand. Reinspect the client’s nails as contraindications may have been hidden by enamel. 4. Nail filing and shaping Discuss with the client the nail shape that is best suited to them. Their occupation and recreational activities should be considered when determining the length of the nails. If the client’s nails are too long and need trimming, use curved manicure scissors or nail clippers. When using nail clippers, trim the two sides first and then across the free edge. This will not damage the nail plate. Dispose of nail clippings immediately in the bin. Using the finger rotation method, start shaping the nails of the right hand. Holding the end of the emery board with the thumb and the index finger at a 45 degree angle, file the nail from side to centre and gently across the free edge in one direction. Do not file back and forth as this may cause discomfort and splitting of the nail layers. The heat produced dries up the moisture within the layers which may also cause flaking. Filing too deep into the corners causes in-growing nails, weakens the sides of nails and can cause breakages. Always use an abrasive, no coarser than 240 grit. Provide manicure and pedicare services 11 MANICURE PROCEDURE 5. Buffing the nail plate 6. Removing cuticle Buffing smooths ridges or any uneven textures on the nail plate. It gives a lustrous shine, improves circulation giving a healthier looking nail bed and removes any staining on the surface layers of the nail plates. It also strengthens the nail layers at the free edge. When using the block and the satin buffers start with the coarser sides first and then move to the smoothest side to achieve the best results. A buffing paste may be used in conjunction with a chamois covered buffer, a three way buffer or just the buffer by itself. Continue with the rotation method with the right hand. The buffer is used in the direction of the nail plate growth, being the direction from the matrix to the free edge. In a male manicure, buffing should occur at the end of the manicure. To prepare for cuticle work, fold a tissue and rest this in the palm of your left hand to wipe away any excess remover off the implements. Apply cuticle remover to the base of all ten nails without touching the skin by either using the control flow nozzle on the product bottle or with cotton tipped cuticle sticks. Cuticle remover assists in the elimination of stubborn cuticle and can also be used under the free edge of the nail to remove any dirt. Hold the client’s fingers between the thumb and index fingers and gently squeeze back the cuticle. Gently slide a cuticle pusher along the nail plate to loosen the cuticle. Lift along the left side of the nail up towards the matrix in a clockwise manner, then along the right side and gently around the cuticle but not beyond the eponychium. Avoid undue pressure and pushing into the eponychium as this will result in damage to the nail unit. Do not use cuticle clippers due to health regulations. Using the tissue, wipe carefully around the nail and under the free edge. Place each hand in a bowl of soak or cleanser with warm water. Make sure the temperature is comfortable for the client. This soaking help soften the cuticles. Rinse thoroughly and pat the fingers dry. Provide manicure and pedicare services 12 MANICURE PROCEDURE 7. Cuticle moisturising 8. Exfoliating 9. Applying masque 10. Rinsing and cleaning the nails For moisturising the cuticle, use a cotton tipped orange stick or the control flow nozzle on the product. Without touching the skin apply cuticle cream or cuticle butter to the base of the surrounding tissue of each nail. Remove a quantity of product about the size of a five cent piece and place it on the back of your hand for application as needed. Do not re-dip the orange stick into the container because it may contaminate the product. Remove the cotton tip and place it in the bin. Using both hands, massage the client’s thumb and little finger with firm thumb rotations, making sure the cream is spread around the entire cuticle wall, nail plate and up to the first joint. Massage the index finger, ring finger, middle finger and include the thumb again. For a deep conditioning treatment, cuticle oil can be applied along with the cuticle cream and massaged as normal. Wrap both hands in towels and prepare for next step. Remove manicure bowl to the side. Unwrap the right hand and apply the exfoliant to the entire forearm and hand. Using long stroking movement (effleurage movements) perform a hand and arm massage. Massage the product into the skin especially around any dry areas. Exfoliant may be rinsed off however some manufacturer’s advise that their product can be left on the skin and worked together with the masque. Apply a generous amount of masque to cover the entire forearm and hand using effleurage strokes. Wrap the hand and repeat exfoliation and applying masque on the other arm. If using a paraffin treatment this may be applied at this stage on top of the mask. Leave for about 5 to 10 minutes. Take the client’s right arm first, soak the hand and forearm and using a soft nail brush clean the nails of both hands in a bowl of hand soak and warm water. Remove the massage cream and cuticle remove. Cover your index finger with a tissue and gently dry around each nail. Dry hand and arm and then rest the arm back onto the towel and repeat on left arm. If using paraffin, gently peel the paraffin off the forearm and hand and there is no need to soak. Provide manicure and pedicare services 13 3 TYPES OF POLISH APPLICATION 1. Full coverage – polish is applied over the entire nail plate. 2. Slimline – a 1/16 inch margin on each side of the nail plate is left without polish. This makes a wide nail look narrow. 3. Half moon – a half moon shape is left unpainted at the base of the nail Hand and arm massage. This is probably the most enjoyable part of a manicure for the client. •Apply the cream to the client’s hands and arms with long smooth strokes. •Use a rolled towel to support the client’s arm throughout the massage. There are two massage movements most commonly used in manicures. Effleurage – these are long stroking movements performed with the operator’s whole hand and palm. - Superficial effleurage is soothing and aids relaxation. - Deep effleurage is more pressure and firmer. With effleurage, the operator’s hands can be used together or alternatively but must be completely relaxed and moulded to the part of the client’s hand or arm that is being treated. The movements must be smooth and rhythmical, following the direction of the blood flow back to the heart and also along the flow of the lymphatics sending it to the lymph glands. Petrissage – this is compression. This includes kneading, knuckling, ironing, skin rolling and wringing. These pressure movements can be used on individual muscles or complete groups of muscles. It involves pressing the tissue on the underlying structure and can be performed with one or two hands, the whole of the palms surface or the knuckles. Provide manicure and pedicare services 14 1. Back of hand petrissage 2. Back of hand petrissage 3. Fingers - petrissage 4. Fingers – slide and petrissage 5. Palm - petrissage 6. Back of hand effleurage 7. Finger stretching HAND MASSAGE – see drawings and photos Your client’s palm is facing down so you are working on the back of their hand. Use both thumbs in small firm circular motions, one hand at a time, while you hold the client’s hand. Repeat many times. Use both thumbs with firm wide circular pressure. Move out from the centre of the hand to the outer edges. Repeat many times. Hold the client’s wrist. Use one thumb to do circular movements on each finger. Begin on the hand and work down each finger to the finger tip. Still hold the client’s wrist. Use your thumb and index finger to hold onto client’s finger and firmly slide down the finger completing a circular massage on the finger tip. Repeat 3 times on each finger. Turn palm upwards and use firm thumb circular movements all over soft tissue of palm. Turn palm down again. Using both of your hands together, roll stretch outwards from the centre of the client’s hand using your thumbs soft tissue for the movement. Repeat 3 times. Using your thumb and index finger hold onto the client’s finger and pull the finger slightly and then slide down to the fingertip giving a slight pressure on the nail before releasing and moving to the next finger. FORMATIVE 4. VIEW VIDEO ON HAND AND ARM MASSAGE FOR MANICURE. FORMATIVE 5. VIEW VIDEO ON MANICURE NAIL POLISH APPLICATION. Provide manicure and pedicare services 15 Bones of the hand Step 2 Step 4 Provide manicure and pedicare services 16 Step 5 FORMATIVE 6. PERFORM FULL MANICURE SERVICES. PRACTICE SESSIONS You are to practice the tasks for a manicure service including massage and the completion of a client treatment plan before and after the service. Observe salon service time frames. Provide manicure and pedicare services 17 Paraffin wax service This service uses heat penetration to increase the skin’s temperature. The result is increased elasticity, smoothness and softness to the skin and improved colour. The cleansing action of the paraffin removes surface dead skin cells and bacterial build-up. The wax is preheated to 49 degrees Celsius. The hand or foot can be dipped into the wax or the wax can be painted on with a large brush. In a manicure and pedicare service, the nails are completed up to the cuticle work before the wax treatment is applied. For safety reasons do not attempt to heat the paraffin wax in anything other than a paraffin wax heater which heats the wax up to the right temperature. Contraindications for application. Paraffin wax treatments are good for dry and dehydrated skin, finely lined skins and uneven textured skins. They are not suitable for extremely vascular skin prone to reactions and irritations or clients with swollen veins. Some older clients may be heat sensitive so be careful and do a patch test first. The procedure for hands and feet. •Heat wax to correct temperature. •Cover hands or feet with a thin layer of moisturising cream. •Dip hands or feet gently and slowly into the paraffin, hold for just an instant, and remove. Allow the wax to 'set', then dip again. •Dip and remove the hands or feet into the paraffin several times. •If not dipping, use the brush to apply an even application of wax. •Wrap hands and feet with plastic or foil, then cover with towels. Allow the paraffin to remain on for at least 20 minutes. •Unwrap limbs and the wax should peel off in one piece. •Conduct a hand or foot massage for a full 10 minutes. •Continue with rest of procedure for manicure or pedicare. FORMATIVE 7. PERFORM PARAFFIN WAX SERVICES. PRACTICE SESSIONS. Observe salon service time frames. Paraffin wax equipment. •Hot paraffin wax heater. •Paraffin wax. •Two large sheets of foil or plastic wrap to enclose the hand or foot. •Two bath towels. •Moisturising cream. •A large brush for application. Paraffin spa wax Provide manicure and pedicare services Paraffin spa bath 18 French manicure service A French manicure requires the same procedure as for a normal service with the only difference being the painting of the polish. It always looks best when the client has a good free edge on their nail. The choice of the colour for the nail plate will depend on the natural colour of the client’s nail. If it is dark then a natural polish is best. If it is pale then a pink or peach shade is best. Some French polish kits contain white tip sticker guides. These can be applied after the base coat has dried to give you a guideline of where to paint the white tip. If you want to make the free edge look longer then you can paint the white tip higher up the nail plate. Do not make the nails look false. For a French Polish you will need; •A base coat. •A white polish for the free edge. •A pink, natural or peach colour for the nail plate. •A top coat. First white stroke Second white stroke Rounding off The procedure. •Complete the manicure up to and including the application of the base coat. Keep the base coat thin and even. •First white colour stroke is applied from the left side of the free edge to the centre of the free edge. This is done on an angle going downwards. •Second white colour stroke is applied from the right side of the free edge to the centre of the free edge. •The first two strokes will have made a ‘V’ shape on the nail. •Third white colour stroke goes across the free edge to make a more rounded look. Only apply thin white coats. Let the 3 coats dry. •Paint the entire length of the nail with a pink, natural or peach colour. Two coats of this polish may be necessary. •Apply top coat. FORMATIVE 8. PERFORM FRENCH MANICURE SERVICES. PRACTICE SESSIONS Observe salon service time frames. Provide manicure and pedicare services 19 Specialised services Buffing. The last step in great-looking, naturally manicured nails is buffing which smooths ridges and adds a shine to fingernails. Both women and men can have their fingernails buffed for a more finished appearance. The procedure. 1. Complete the manicure up to and including the filing of the fingernails. 2. Stroke each fingernail a few times with a medium to fine buffing block to take off any ridges on the surface. Be careful not to buff too long or too hard or you'll thin out the fingernail, weakening it and making it vulnerable to injury or infection. 3. Stroke each fingernail with a fine to superfine buffing block to shine them. Go in one direction making sure you don't move the buffing block back and forth over the fingernail too quickly that you cause damage before realising it. 4. Shine the fingernails with a chamois. You can use a buffing cream or a little beeswax to give the fingernails a high sheen. 5. This completes the treatment as there is no need for nail polish. Buffers Manicures for men. A man’s manicure is conducted using the normal procedures as described in this unit except that instead of applying polish you would buff the nails. • Shape the nails into a round shape. Wash and dry the hands. • Apply cuticle remover and complete the cuticle treatment. • Conduct an arm and hand massage. • Continue the procedure following steps 2, 3 & 4 as shown above. FORMATIVE 9. PERFORM NAIL BUFFING SERVICES. PRACTICE SESSIONS Provide manicure and pedicare services 20 Pedicare considerations The skin on the feet show sign of stress in the form of callused surface skin where the pressure of shoes have built up on the skin. A pedicare treatment will include massage, exfoliation and moisturising. It is illegal to use a knife or cutting instrument on a client. That is a job for a podiatrists or a surgeon. Podiatrists are responsible for the comprehensive care of the human foot. Their field of specialisation, is the diagnosis and management of problems, injuries or pathology relating to the foot. Athletes and people who play a lot of sport need different foot care than the average client. Some sports can lead to particular disorders. Black heel in soccer and basketball players is when the skin on the heel turns black because of internal bleeding caused by stress from abrupt contact between the foot and the hard surface. Tennis players can damage their toenails because of sudden stopping. This can build up blood in the skin under the toe nail. Fungal spores can then occur under the free edge. Fungus. The feet are covered with 250,000 sweat glands from which fungus and bacteria can grow in socks and shoes. These moist conditions can cause dryness, redness, blisters, itching, smelly and peeling skin on the feet. All forms of fungus should be referred to a doctor as they are hard to cure and do reoccur. Fungus will spread if left untreated. Bacteria. Bacteria can be spread in foot spa machines if they have not been sanitised correctly between clients. The bacteria can spread into areas such as under the nail, between the toes and on the skin of the feet and legs. Water mould. Water mould is the main disorder that is a direct result of wearing nail enhancements. It is a discolouration of the nail plate. Water becomes trapped between the natural nail and the enhancement. It appears green in mild cases but can be black in severe cases. Provide manicure and pedicare services 21 Disorders that do not prevent a pedicare service Technical/comm Cause Appearance on name Genetic malformation of bone Inflammation and distortion of the joint Bunions calluses Build up of hard skin in pressure areas Heel fissures Dry skin , built up calluses Onychauxis is the medical term for an overgrowth or thickening of the nail and can be part of the ageing process or ill fitting shoes Onychocryptosis In-grown toe nails caused by ill fitting shoes. Genetic Friction Blisters Pressure from shoes Hammer toes Onychauxis Action/treatment Normal pedicare. No rasping. Gentle of the large toe and metatarsal joint massage. Hard, dry skin on the heels and ball of the Regular pedicare. Exfoliate areas foot. More advanced cases can result in effected. Moisturise feet. fissures Deep cracks may appear and these can Refer serious problems to podiatrist. become infected See a pharmacists for special foot and heel creams now available. Nail becomes thickened. Keratin production increases as nail attempts to protect itself Cut and file. Regular pedicare. Toe nails grow into the surrounding skin Cut straight or avoid the area. Seek medical advice. Fluid filled pockets between layers of skin Gentle pedicare. Do not break. A common deformity. Small bones in toes Regular pedicare. become ‘hooked’ FORMATIVE 10. WATCH VIDEO ON PEDICARE PREPARATION. Bones of the foot Provide manicure and pedicare services 22 SEATED PEDICARE PROCEDURE 1. Inspection Check the feet and nails thoroughly for any contraindications, which may prohibit the pedicare procedure. Advise the client to consult their doctor if any irregularities are present. 2. Application of antiseptic Using a 70% alcohol wipe or cotton wool ball soaked in the antiseptic solution, begin on the right leg and use firm pressure to wipe down to the toes. Make sure the entire lower leg is cleaned front and back. Repeat procedure on left leg with another wipe soaked in antiseptic. If a foot spa is available, the feet can be soaked in an antibacterial solution. 3. Soaking With the client seated, place both feet in the pedicare bowl or spa to soak for 5 minutes. Remove right foot and pat it dry with the towel on your lap. Leave left foot soaking. 4. Removal of nail polish. If there isn’t any leave out this step Hold the cotton ball between the index and middle fingers and place firmly over the big toe on the client’s right foot, until the enamel begins to dissolve. Wipe down towards the free edge and the nail plate should be clean. Any left over enamel around the cuticle wall can be removed with an orange stick tipped with cotton wool and dipped in remover. Remove left foot from soaking, dry the foot and repeat removal of nail polish. Reinspect the client’s nails as contraindications may have been hidden by enamel. 5. Nail filing and shaping Toenails usually grow to the end of the toe, although some clients prefer them longer. The shape of the free edge is straight across with the sides of the nail plate slightly curved. This helps prevent in-growing nails. If the client’s toenails are too long and need trimming, use nail scissors or nail clippers. When using nail clippers, trim from the two sides first and then across the middle of the free edge. This will ensure the nail plate is not damaged. Dispose of nail clippings immediately in a bin. Begin with the right foot. A coarser nail file is usually needed for the big toe. Hold the end of the nail file with the thumb and the index finger at a 45% angle and file straight across from left to right. Do not file back and forth. Take the sharp edge off the sides by gently filing from the outside inwards, to give the nail a slight curve on the sides. Filing too deep on the corners may cause in-growing nails. Use a fine file after a coarse file to bevel the free edge making it smooth. When filing the little toes, hold up the toe to be filed and gently push the others under. This will allow access for filing without hitting the other toes. Provide manicure and pedicare services 23 SEATED PEDICARE PROCEDURE 6. Cuticles Cuticle remover is applied to the right foot all around the cuticle wall with cotton tipped cuticle sticks. This will loosen the cuticle and then use these sticks to remove any dirt under the free edge. Hold the client’s toes between the thumb and index finger and gently squeeze back the cuticle. Gently lift the cuticle from the nail plate using a circular motion. Lift along the left side of the cuticle wall towards the matrix in a clockwise manner, then along the right side and gently around the cuticle wall, anticlockwise. Avoid undue pressure on the matrix as this may result in dents, grooves and ridges. Follow these movements with a cuticle tool. When performing cuticle work have a folded up tissue resting in the palm of your left hand to wipe away any excess remover or dirt from the implements. Using the tissue wipe carefully around the nail and under the free edge. Cuticle clippers are no longer allowed due to health regulations. 7. Exfoliations The products used for exfoliation of the feet and lower leg are more abrasive than those used on the hands. Use the product according to manufacturers’ instructions and work on one leg at a time. After using the exfoliant, a callus smoother or pedipad is recommended. Using a circular movement work on the rough skin on the soles of the feet concentrating on the heels, big toe and the balls of the feet. If the pedipad has a rough and smooth side, use rough first, switching to the smooth side to finish off. Return each foot to the pedicare bowl or spa to remove any debris and products. Soak and then thoroughly dry each foot and lower leg with the towel on your lap. 8. Soaking 9. Apply a masque Apply a generous amount of masque to cover both feet using effleurage strokes. Wrap in a towel and leave for 10 minutes. When ready, soak each foot and rinse masque using a nail brush to gently clean the nails and surrounding skin. Dry each foot thoroughly. FORMATIVE 11. VIEW VIDEO ON FOOT AND LEG MASSAGE FOR PEDICARE. Provide manicure and pedicare services 24 FOOT AND LEG MASSAGE PROCEDURES 1. Effleurage lower leg and foot Have the client’s leg resting on your leg which has a towel over it to protect your clothing. Begin effleurage movements using the palm of your hand to gently glide over the top of the lower leg and foot and return around the back of the leg and foot. When the first hand returns your other hand begins the same movement. Repeat 3 times on each leg. 2. Effleurage inner and outer calf Begin effleurage working back to the ankle with the thumb and the fingers supporting underneath. Massage both sides of the lower leg at the same time in a circular motion. When the hand returns to the ankle the other hand begins the same movement. Repeat 3 times on each leg. This is a kneading massage. Using both hands at the same time, use an effleurage movement to start at the ankle and finish just below the knee with both thumbs resting on the outer side of the lower leg. Using outward circular movements with each thumb alternately, work from the top of the lower leg to the ankle. Repeat 3 times. Rest the fingertips of both hands on the toes and link the thumbs together. Using a friction movement, beginning with the fingertips, glide over the top of the client’s foot, around the ankle bone and back up to the top of the client’s toes. Repeat movement 4 times. Hold the client’s toes with one hand and use the other hand to massage around the ankle bone with circular movements. Concentrate on the heel. Repeat 2 times. 3. Petrissage tibialis anterior 4. Foot stroke 5. Knead ankle and heel FORMATIVE 12. VIEW VIDEO ON PEDICARE GEL POLISH APPLICATION. Provide manicure and pedicare services 25 FOOT AND LEG MASSAGE PROCEDURES 6. Knead medial arch Rest one hand on the top of the client’s foot and place the other underneath the foot. Using circular thumb massage movements, work along the arch of the client’s foot. Repeat for a minimum of 30 seconds. 7. Stretch Achilles tendon The Achilles tendon runs from the back of the lower leg to the ankle. Support the client’s lower leg with one hand and gently stretch out the Achilles tendon. Before releasing the ankle, use the other hand to support the client’s lower leg. Repeat 6 times. 8. Thumb knead top of foot Hold the client’s foot so that your thumbs can massage the top of the foot. Using alternate, circular thumb massage movements, work from the toes to the heel. Repeat 6 times. 9. Effleurage finish Begin effleurage movements using the palm of your hand to gently glide over the top of the lower leg and foot and return around the back of the leg and foot. When the first hand returns your other hand begins the same movement. Repeat 3 times on each leg. This completes the massage. FORMATIVE 13. PERFORM FULL PEDICARE SERVICES. PRACTICE SESSIONS You are to practice the steps for a pedicare service including a massage and completion of a client treatment plan before and after the service. Observe salon service time fames. FORMATIVE 14. QUIZ Your trainer will supply the quiz paper for you to complete. Provide manicure and pedicare services 26 After care for clients It is part of your work as a nail technician to provide aftercare service to clients who have received nail treatments. After each treatment it is best to record the results and responses from the client to the nail treatment. It is good business practice to have the client rebook another appointment before leaving the salon. Advice to the client could be a written handout and may include; •How to clean nails. •Proper methods of cutting and filing fingernails and toenails. •Proper methods of applying and removing nail polish. •Hand or foot protection measures to enable treatment to last longer. •Lifestyle changes to improve skin and nail health. •The wearing of gloves when gardening or doing housework. •Advice on skin care products to maintain a healthy appearance. •Recommendations for further nail services. You will need to ask the client for details of their homecare routine. They can purchase products from your salon. Recommend the purchase of; •Nail hardeners. •Hand and body moisturisers. •Nail files. •Cuticle creams. •Nail polishes. •Hand exfoliants. Products courtesy of LeChat Manicure kit Provide manicure and pedicare services Pedicare kit 27 Being environmentally aware in the salon Our natural resources are being greatly affected by modern living activities. It is vital that salon management and staff practice environmental controls during their work in the salon. Recycle materials. •Make room in the staff kitchen for a recycling box. •Glass, tin/steel cans, paper, cardboard and plastic are all recyclable materials. •Clean and flatten boxes and cartons. •Empty food and liquids from bottles, jars and containers and wash out any remaining contents. •Remove lids from plastic bottles and containers. •Plastic bags are not part of a recycling service and should not be placed in recycling bins. •Do not recycle food waste, hazardous material used in beauty treatment services, broken crockery and foam. Water savings. Water is an important resource which is why we need to limit our water use to as little as possible. Australia is the driest continent in the world. The benefits of water conservation are; •Reduces the demand on the water supply. •Saves money on water bills and reduces the need for new dams. Waste reduction. •Turn off the lights and salon equipment at the power point when not in use. •Nail clippings, filing dust and cleaning pads should be wrapped in tissue and placed in waste bin. •Containers which have held chemical liquids or left over product must not be washed in the sink. Pour or scrape out the contents into newspaper, wrap tightly so no spillage occurs and place in a bin which has a closed lid. All waste products must be disposed of correctly to minimise the negative affects they have on the environment. This completes the learning material for this unit. Provide manicure and pedicare services 28 SUMMATIVE ASSESSMENT A. Marking criteria Provide manicure and pedicare services 29 SUMMATIVE ASSESSMENT B. Marking criteria Provide manicure and pedicare services 30 SUMMATIVE ASSESSMENT C. Provide manicure and pedicare services 31