* Chapter 3: Fashion Research & Planning AD 3118 Fashion Marketing & Brand Management A.Kwanta Sirivajjanangkul Albert Laurence School of Communication Arts Department of Advertising 2014 *Chapter Outline * Marketing Research * Market Research * Planning and Strategy To be effective, fashion marketing needs to be • planned consciously • managed strategically • researched continuously • reviewed consistently. Ongoing cycle of endeavor is vital in a highly competitive, fast paced industry such as fashion AD3118 for 2/2014 by A. Kwanta S. Marketing Research AD3118 for 2/2014 by A. Kwanta S. *Marketing Research * * * It is a vital component of both business and marketing For a fashion company to be able to determine its future business direction and marketing strategy, it will need to continuously gather, analyze and integrate information obtained from a diverse range of business, fashion, and market sources 7P marketing mix * product, price, place, promotion, people, process, physical evidence * Kotler defines marketing research as: * “Systematic problem analysis, model building, and fact- building for the purpose of improved decision-making and control in the marketing of goods and services” * Scope of Marketing Research Business Product research Market research Marketing research Promotion al research Distributio n & routes to market Fashion research * Scope of Marketing Research Business Product research Market research Marketi ng researc h Distribution & routes to market Promotiona l research Fashion research • • • • Finance Business models Business opportunity Political & economic * Scope of Marketing Research • Consumers • Demographics • Psychographics • Consumer trends & behaviors Business Product research Market research Marketi ng researc h Distribution & routes to market Promotiona l research Fashion research • The Market Place • Prices • Emerging market & trends in the market • Size of the market & state of the market • Retail trends • Competitors • Product prices • Operations & services • Market share * Scope of Marketing Research Business Product research Market research Marketi ng researc h Distribution & routes to market Promotiona l research Fashion research • Logistics • Catalog • Bricks & mortar stores • Internet * Scope of Marketing Research Business Product research Market research Marketi ng researc h Distribution & routes to market Promotiona l research Fashion research • Fashion forecasting • Trend picked up by press • Designer runway trends • Consumer fashion trends * Scope of Marketing Research Business Product research Market research Marketi ng researc h Distribution & routes to market Promotiona l research Fashion research • • • • • • Personal selling Advertising Viral marketing Public relations Sales promotion Event and fashion show * Scope of Marketing Research Business Product research Market research Marketi ng researc h Distribution & routes to market Promotiona l research Fashion research • Technological developments • Product design • Product manufacture & supply chain • Fabrics, materials, components *Marketing Research * It is important to define the differences between marketing research and market research Marketing Research VS Market research * Market research forms a subset of marketing research and refers specifically to investigations of the market itself, comprising the marketplace, competitors, and consumers * Marketing research relates to a much wider-ranging set of concerns which include business, politics, economics, cultural and social trends, developing technologies, logistics, promotions and prodcut research *Marketing Research Marketing environment 1. The macro marketing environment 2. The micro marketing environment * Porter’s five forces analysis 3. The Internal environment * Marketing environment Interest rates Taxation Legislation Internal Distributors The micro environment Business relationships The macro environment End-consumers supplier stakeholders Social trends customers Exchange rates competitors Technology Cultural influences * Marketing environment The macro environment The macro environment • • • • • PEST analysis Political & legal factors Economic factors Social & cultural factors Technological factors * Marketing environment The macro environment • • • • • PEST analysis Political & legal factors Economic factors Social & cultural factors Technological factors • The macro marketing environment refers to the wider situation impacting on all businesses. The macro environment is outside a company’s direct control and comprises a complex set of variables. • It can be simplified in 4 key areas; • Political & legal factors • Economic factors • Social and cultural factors • Technological factors • PEST analysis * Marketing environment Political & legal Economic • Taxation • legislation • Trade tariffs • Interest rate, rate of inflations, currency exchange rate • Economic climate • marketplace Social & cultural Technological • Lifestyle trends • Leisure activities • Film, television, music, art • Communication technology • WEB 3.0 • Body scanning and customization technology • CAD * Marketing environment The micro environment The micro environment • Customers • Competitors • Suppliers & supply chain logistics • Distributors & distribution channels • stakeholders * Marketing environment The micro environment • Customers • Competitors • Suppliers & supply chain logistics • Distributors & distribution channels • Stakeholder and partner relationships • The micro marketing environment will be determined by the market sector in question and will be unique to each company. • The micro marketing environment refers to factors that impacts more directly on an organization and affect its ability to operate within its specific market. * Marketing environment Porter’s five forces analysis •It is a tool that can be used to assess pressures within a competitive business environment. •Porter’s model identifies 5 forces that impact the competitive and profitability of a business within a particular industry 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. The bargaining power of suppliers The bargaining power of buyers Rivalry between competitors in the market Threat of new entrants to the market Threat of substitute products or services * Marketing environment Porter’s five forces analysis 1. The bargaining power of suppliers • • • A supplier will have a strong bargaining position if they provide a unique product or a necessary service. If a particular fashion trend takes off, perhaps one featuring lace or hand embroidery, then a manufacturer in India or China with capability to produce delicate handwork may find that they have a stronger bargaining position on price Suppliers that have built up a strong relationship with their customers will also be in a stronger position as it can be costly for customers to switch to a new supplier or manufacturer (money, time, energy have gone into product development, creating samples, and working on product fittings and specifications. * Marketing environment Porter’s five forces analysis 2. The bargaining power of buyers • • Buyers will naturally want to purchase products or services at the best possible price to ensure that they can remain competitive. Suppliers need to keep their order books filled, so they will be under pressure to meet buyers’ demands, particularly in difficult economic times. • Buyers from large retail chains will not only bargain for low prices but will also demand favorable discount terms and usually require suppliers to contribute markdown costs on stock that does not sell at full price. • Fashion retailers that produce their own collections will gain the upper hand in negotiations with manufacturers if they place high-volume orders. * Marketing environment Porter’s five forces analysis 3. Rivalry between competitors in the market • • Fashion retail is full of numerous available brand and fashion labels, all competing with one another for the endconsumer’s custom. Rivalry between competitors will also relate to supply chain. 4. Threat of new entrants to the market • A brand with loyal customers and a solid business might capitalize on their existing resources to extend their operation into a new sector of the fashion market; ex. a successful womenswear retailer deciding to develop a range for men. 5. Threat of substitute products and services • If customers can find an alternative product or service, they may switch their custom, thus weakening the power of a business to succeed. * Marketing environment Internal The internal environment • Company and departmental structure • Finance • Resources • Internal systems • Personnel • Technological capabilities * Marketing environment The internal environment • Company and departmental structure • Finance • Resources • Internal systems • Personnel • Technological capabilities • The internal structure and culture of a business organization will impact on the way it operates • The way internal processes and procedures are set up • A key stage in the process of creating a marketing plan is to carry out an internal audit • The audit provides a company with an opportunity to review its internal procedures, capabilities, resources, and marketing strategies Market Research AD3118 for 2/2014 by A. Kwanta S. *Market Research * Fashion market is a challenging arena. Designers must come up with fresh and new ideas every season. * At the same time, retailers worry about slowing sales, customers are tightening their wallets, and magazines are losing advertisers. * it is very important to carry out market research, assess shifts in trends, understand competitors and gain knowledge of consumers and their requirements. * The market research process involves gathering, analyzing, and interpreting information, data, and statistics on: 1. 2. 3. 4. Market size Market trend Competitors and their market share consumers *Market Research Methods * First determine the aims and objectives of the study. Marketing research should be considered when: * starting a new business * entering a new market * launching a new product or product range * adding a new service * targeting a new customer segment * reviewing progress or resetting targets * researching how to compete in a market * investigating issues of underperformance *Market Research Methods * Research brief should contain: * information on the company and its current market * the background for the research * the issues that research should address * what the research should achieve * detailed time frame for the project * deadline for submission of the report * available budget and resources *Market Research Methods Basic primary research methods; * Observation (visiting fashion trades and cites) * Comparative shopping (visiting competitors’ stores) * Like-for-like product comparison (LFL) * When company wishes to investigate in depth how a particular product comparing with similar items offered by the competitors in the market ex. T-shirt of Gap, Uniqlo, American Apparel, Mark & Spencer & Calvin Klein) * the garments will be compared in terms of price, fabric and make quality, design details and fit, wash care, and performance * Mystery shopping * Focus group interviews * Questionnaires *Market Research *Monitoring the market 1. Define the size and composition of a market size 2. Determine the state of the market 3. Assess trends within the market 4. Establish which competitors operate in the market 5. Analyze competitors strengths and weaknesses 6. Research consumers and understand their requirement * 1. Market size * Location of market: global, international, national * Product category: accessories, apparel, lingerie, perfume, homeware * Who the product is for: women, men, tween market, children, and baby * Product type: pro-sport, active wear, casual wear, denim, formal wear, dresses, evening * Market level: couture, premium, mid-market, value or commodity market * 2. Market Trends * it is useful to track market data over a longer time frame * this helps to reveal trends, indicating if the market is expanding, stagnant, or contracting 3. Fashion forecasting and market intelligence * an essential element of monitoring the market is keeping abreast of changing fashion trends. * developments in global fashion culture, runway trends, street style, and the market in general * designers start planning their collections up to a year in advance of what they will sell in store * most designers will visit essential fabric and trade fairs as a key part of their job * 3. Fashion forecasting and market intelligence * Most fashion forecasting and intelligence agencies will supply: * * * * * * * * Market intelligence Consumer insight Information on emerging global trends Reports on street style Runway reports Key styles and design ideas Color forecasting Fabric trend information * 3. Fashion forecasting and market intelligence * fashion designers, manufacturers, retailer buyers, merchandisers, and brand managers will use a market and trend information as a basis to predict the future direction of their businesses * in fashion retail, sales data is usually reviewed on a daily basis and analyzed in more depth every week * designs and product developers will build on this information with research into color, fabric, design, technical trends, so that they can develop appropriate products for the coming seasons * 3. Life cycle of a fashion trend * fashion market and fashion trends change over time, this is why research should be ongoing discipline * A Fad: - is short-lived and usually difficult to predict - A fashion fad can be individual item, look, style that becomes intensely popular almost overnight and then dies out as suddenly as it came it - A fad might be in fashion for one season only and then next season be out of fashion - A fad lasts for a year or less * 3. Life cycle of a fashion trend * A Trend (Fashion): - A fashion trend may start slowly with low acceptance in early stages and build momentum over time - It will peak and then taper off, either disappearing altogether or flattering out and remaining in fashion long enough to be reclassified as classic - The woman’s pant suit has become a classic. - The seed of this trend was seen in 1966 when Yves Saint Laurent introducing “Le smoking,” a tuxedo pant suit for women. - This illustrates how a trend may be initiated at couture or designer level and then work down through the mass market stores, this is known as “The Trickle Down effect”. - Trends can also move in other direction. * 3. Life cycle of a fashion trend * A Megatrend : - A megatrend is a large social, cultural, economic, political, or technological change that is slow to form but will influence a market over an extended time frame. - Denim jeans!!! * 3. Life cycle of a fashion trend * 3. Identifying competitors - the most basic way of categorizing competitors is to define those that offer and supply similar types of products and services at the same level of market - Gucci & Prada - Nike & Adidas - Competition Criteria - Product type and usage - Consumer psychology - Product and brand positioning - Shopping location * 4. Competitor analysis - The aim is to evaluate how they are performing and investigate their operation in terms of - Size - market share - capabilities and resources - Product offer - Services - Routes to market - Number of retail outlets - The purpose is to assess their strengths and weaknesses and determine how best to compete - This links to Porter’s five forces, as powerful companies may have a stronger negotiating position with suppliers Planning and Strategy AD3118 for 2/2014 by A. Kwanta S. * Marketing Plan - The purpose is - To review and assess the existing circumstances of both the business and the market - To determine marketing objectives and strategies - To establish the actions an organization intends - To achieve its marketing and business goals * Marketing Plan Situation analysis - Where are we now? - What is the current state of the market? - Utilize SWOT and PEST analysis Objectives - Where do we want to go? - What are the market opportunities? Strategy and tactics - How do we get there? - What action do we need to take? - Who will carry them out? Sales forecasts, predicted costs, and budgets - How much will it cost? - What is the predicted return on investment? * Situation Analysis -Marketing mix -Target customers -Positioning strategy -Differentiation strategy and USP -Competitive advantage -SWOT analysis -PEST analysis * Market opportunity – Ansoff’s Matrix -Ansoff’s Matrix is a tool that offers four potential scenarios for opportunity that could be used by a company that has an objective to achieve growth 1. Market penetration 2. Market development 3. Product development 4. Diversification * 1. Market penetration - Market penetration means continuing to sell existing product within an existing market with the aim of capitalizing and improving upon the profitability of the current market proposition. - Key strategies: 1. Increase number of customers 2. Increase average spend 3. Increase margin (raise priced and buy in at lower cost price) 4. Improve product mix and range plan * 2. Market development - Expanding their business by taking existing product to the new market. 3. Product development - Developing new products to existing market. This allows for growth by capitalizing on a brand name to launch a new individual product or branded product range such as bridge, or diffusion line 4. Product development - Developing new products for a completely new market , such as homeware or fragrance. - This is the most risky of the four options. It ususally requores solid strategic partnerships and is most likely to be achieved by licensing the brand name. ?