INESCOP
Footwear Technological Institute
Use of advanced tools for multilocalized design
and manufacturing in the footwear industry
Dr. Enrique Montiel
Industry of Design-Based Products: Creating Value through Customization
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What is INESCOP?
Independent service organisation.
Founded in 1971.
Non-profit making institution.
More than 500 associated companies.
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Technology Centre
INESCOP works as a Technology Centre that
supports footwear industries to develop
scientific and technical activities that cannot be
undertaken by themselves.
INESCOP owns 20 patents on different
systems, most of them transferred to the
industry for exploitation. INESCOP has
participated in over 90 EU projects since 1986.
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INESCOP’s services
Testing services, quality control.
Technology development.
Applied research.
Industrial and fashion design.
Environment.
Training.
Information.
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Close to the factories
Network of laboratories: 6 technical
units and 1 affiliated centre
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The world footwear sector
Value of the world footwear market:
1
246 Billion Euros
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1All
data obtained from World Footwear Yearbook 2011
The world footwear sector
In 2010 for the first time ever
World footwear production exceeded:
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20 Billion Pairs
The world footwear sector
Manufacture is heavily concentrated in
they produce
87% of all the pairs of shoes produced worldwide
European Countries produce only
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Asia:
4% of world footwear pairs
The European footwear sector
Europe:  20% of world shoe consumption
 destination of
45% of world imports
Europe exports only
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11% of world total footwear
The European footwear sector
9 European countries
are in the top15 world footwear exporters
 Spain
 Italy
 Portugal
10
23%
Share of all
footwear
exported
in the world
The Spanish footwear sector
The Valencian Region is the
hub of the Spanish footwear
industry, although it is also
present in areas such as
Castilla La Mancha and La
Rioja.
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The Spanish footwear sector
In 2011, Spain exported to
China footwear with an
average value of 46.43€
Footwear average value
40.2€
Exported
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5.9€
Imported
The Spanish footwear sector
The Spanish industry has been able
to increase its exports to the most
important European markets, but
lost some share in USA.
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The Spanish footwear sector
Imports grew rapidly, both from
China and from European markets
such as Italy and France.
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The Spanish footwear sector
Footwear exports concentrate in leather
shoes, while imports concentrate in cheap
rubber & plastic ones.
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The product problem
Life-cycle
10 y.
0.5 y.
80€
Price
12,000€
Short life cycle + low price
( + extremely short series: customisation)
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The time-to-market problem
Typical design, manufacture and commercialisation cycle
…but there are other cycles
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The time-to-market problem
One season/year design, manufacture and commercialisation cycle
e.g. Kelme (sports footwear)
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The time-to-market problem
Continuous design, manufacture and commercialisation cycle
e.g. Tempe (Zara)
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The communication problem
Lasts
Soles
Heels
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Prototypes
Headquarters
Design
Prototypes
Lasts
Heels
Soles
Manufacturing
Distribution
Manufacturing
Possible solutions
Flexibility
Speed
at the design stage
at the manufacturing stage
Accuracy
Integration: seamless communication of teams
Marketing support: new means
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Proven experience
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Case 1: Kelme
Problem: to develop a high performance FUTSAL shoe, in collaboration
with Michelin, reducing the development/manufacturing time.
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Case 1: Kelme
Solution: to integrate new biomechanical paradigms,
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All shoe images in this presentation are Virtual Models
Case 1: Kelme
Solution: to integrate new biomechanical paradigms, new materials
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Case 1: Kelme
Solution: to integrate new biomechanical paradigms, new materials
and new sole design in a digital model,
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Case 1: Kelme
Solution: to integrate new biomechanical paradigms, new materials
and new sole design in a digital model, using an integrated knowledgebased CAD/CAM solution.
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Case 2: Sacha London
Problem: to add value to the point-of-sale, and to
increase mass media impact of the brand.
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Case 2: Sacha London
Solution: to offer the chance to customise
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Case 2: Sacha London
Solution: to offer the chance to customise all the footwear collection,
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Case 2: Sacha London
Solution: to offer the chance to customise all the footwear collection,
using a tablet
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Case 2: Sacha London
Solution: to offer the chance to customise all the footwear collection,
using a tablet and an web-based online customisation system
(iShoe),
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Case 2: Sacha London
Solution: to offer the chance to customise all the footwear collection,
using a tablet and web-based online customisation system (iShoe),
and offering the possibility to test the model in an Virtual Mirror
(iMirror).
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Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)
Problem: complex and multifactorial operational environment,
with multiple conditional factors.
…some data:
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 INDITEX has 5,618 shops, opening at least 1 new shop/day.
 TEMPE designs, manufactures and distributes footwear for all INDITEX
brands.
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2
April 2012 published data, INDITEX group
Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)
 Footwear accounts for 10% of INDITEX’s total sales.
 Footwear is INDITEX’s most profitable product.
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Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)
60 million shoes/year (1 billion €).
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Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)
TEMPE’s Design Center employs 110 designers,
working on the two-season collections and the out-of-season
designs.
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Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)
Footwear is worldwide manufactured in 200
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factories.
Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)
Footwear design and production has 2 main seasons, but they also
maintain a continuous design/manufacturing cycle for the whole year (to
cope with emerging trends & oversales).
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Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)
Every year 25,000
prototypes are designed and manufactured…
…only 8,000 of them are selected for final production.
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Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)
Solution:
 To use INESCOP’s integrated CAD/CAM solutions, starting from the shoe
design phase.
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Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)
Solution:
 To use INESCOP’s integrated CAD/CAM solutions, starting from the shoe
design phase.
 To exchange information using compatible data files between design and
production centres: components (lasts, heels, soles) and whole footwear.
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Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)
Solution:
 To use INESCOP’s integrated CAD/CAM solutions, starting from the shoe
design phase.
 To exchange information using compatible data files between design and
production centres: components (lasts, heels, soles) and whole footwear.
 To create hyper-realistic virtual prototypes.
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Case 4: CallagHan
Problem: to add value to their shoes to differentiate them from their
competitors.
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Case 4: CallagHan
Solution: to design and develop a
casual shoe with an integrated
electronic device that records
physical activity
Result from the FP6 EU Project No. 507378
“CEC-made-shoe. Custom, environment and comfort made shoe”
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Case 4: CallagHan
Solution: to design and develop a
casual shoe with an integrated
electronic device that records
physical activity and is connected
to a web-based personal trainer.
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Case 5: Duna
Problem: to allow the integration of customised footwear manufacture in an
industrial line of serial production.
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Case 5: Duna
The technology
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innovation in DUNA
New Products Lines
All products must be developed according to the European
laws for medical devices
Specific solutions to
integrate different
technologies in the
production processes
Small production lot till the single pair or shoe with specific
technical solution against production industrial machines
generally studied for simply workout and lots with high volume.
New communication
systems
The large range of technical info on the products to be
transferred to end-users, customers and medical world require
appropriate communication systems.
Special R&D
Programs
DUNA is official partner of “SSHOES - Special Shoes Movement”
European Project Grant agreement no.: NMP-2008-SME-2-R.229261
Case 5: Duna
Solution: by means of the research project SSHOES3 (Special Shoes
Movement), to develop a completely digital process to manufacture a
customised diabetic shoe:
 Biomechanical analysis (MiniLab).
 Foot scanning (3D scanner).
 Activity pattern analysis.
 Knowledge-based CAD/CAM design.
 Testing devices.
 Robotic cell production.
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3 NMP2-SE-2009-229261,
Seventh Framework Programme.
Future trends:
 Seamless integration of functional
analysis/biomechanics, material science
and comfort issues in CAD/CAM
software.
 Low-cost robotic cells for short series
production as well as massive
introduction of robotics.
 Better simulation tools, both for product
and processes: VR, AR.
 Better use of ICT tools: interoperability,
embedding Knowledge in products.
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You are invited…
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INESCOP
Footwear Technological Institute
POLIGONO INDUSTRIAL CAMPO ALTO
C/ Alemania, 102
03600 ELDA ·ALICANTE· SPAIN
Tel. +34 965 39 52 13 - Fax +34 965 38 10 45
E-mail: emontiel@inescop.es
http://www.inescop.es
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