AROMATHERAPY
AND BEAUTY CARE
:
PHYSICAL,
PHYSIOLOGICAL &
PSHYCHOLOGICAL
COMFORT
Prof. Jyoti Marwah,
Head, History Department,
ICLES College, Navi
Mumbai 400703
Member, Board of Studies
(History), Univ. of Mumbai
Member, Faculty of Arts,
Univ. of Mumbai
ANCIENT COSMETOLOGY
• The concept of aromas is more than just perfumery.
In a fragrant environment, the human mind
experiences psychological, physiological and
physical comfort.
• Anthropological studies suggest the primitive use of
aromatic plants began with burning of herbs and
plant material such as resins and gums. Man applied
paste of flowers, leaves and barks in prehistoric time
to adorn, cool, protect and heal the human body.
• Earlier meaning of cosmetology - use of Aromatics
to drape oneself with. The history of aromatic
substances is as old as the human civilization.
• Sudanese Bath
• Egyptian cone hair dressings
EGYPTIAN WOMEN
WITH UNGENT
CONES
Cosmetology & Aromatherapy
• Today cosmetology or the science of beautifying
one’s skin has steadily progressed into a
revolution with cosmetic surgeries, skin
grafts, laser technology which can shape and
redefine the skin.
• However, I firmly believe that even with this
revolution, Aromatherapy has a niche of its own,
from where even modern cosmetology can not
dislodge it.
The Beginning …and Today
• Understanding Essential oils and its
interdisciplinary study under the title “History of
the uses of Essential oils through the Ages”.
• My journey began with an introduction to
cultivation, distillation, and uses of Essential oils
for women Entrepreneurs from FFDC and CIMAP
Lucknow in 1997-2000 since then there has been
no looking back.
• I am confident about promoting wellness
Management with indigenous aromatic substances
–to be specific ATTARS
• which too is Aromatherapy.
Learning from English Heritage
UK is selling heritage for Economics as I
was introduced to their methodology of
Understanding and Presenting Heritage
Sites at a course at Oxford University
We too have enough to market and one
such valuable preserve is the city of
Kannauj and its Aromatic Heritage
Learning from Uncle Sam
• The three men from the Orient who offered
Gold, Myrrh and Frankincense to Baby Jesus
had actually offered Jatamassi oil, Myrrh and
Frankincense the golden coloured oil of
Jatamassi is referred to as Gold
• Mary Magdalene washed the feet of Jesus
with Jatamassi oil.
• American have invested some several
million dollars in Nepal for the cultivation
Jatamassi and now want to create a market
for it.
GOLD, MYRRH, FRANKINCENSE & JESUS
JATAMASSI
• Jatamassi grows in the higher Himalayas and
the Western world asserts that the Indians did
not know the use of this plant but the Egyptians
taught them to use of it.
• Jatamassi was used for the making of Kyphi
offered to the Egyptian Sun God--Ra.
• Found in the tomb of Tutankhamen the Egyptian
Pharaoh known for his lavish life style.
• Jatamassi finds mention in the Indian literary
sources particularly the Tattireya Brahmanas.
TUTANKHAMEN BEING ANNOINTED WITH AROMATIC
SUBSTANCES
JATAMASSI
• Jatamassi oil is highly aromatic and is
obtained from the rhisomes.
• It is highly antiseptic, digestive, liverstimulant, intellect promoting, and a tonic.
• It is helpful in pitta and vata conditions.
• Helps in epilepsy, hysteria, convulsions
and much more.
• In the line of beauty, it is excellent in
hair care and prevents graying of hair.
PLANTS IN LITERARY AND
SCIENTIFIC STUDIES
• Particularly plants like Chandan, Gulab, Tulsi,
Champaka, Jasmine, Jeshtamedh, Ghritaci, Cypress,
Ashwagandha, Kamal (Lotus) and much more find
special use in the practice of naturopathy and
aromatherapy.
• Literary sources abound with examples to indicate
valued use of these plants pre Vedic, Vedic and post
Vedic periods.
• These have found support through palynology,
archaeology and palaeo-botanical studies.
• Hence the literary sources which today are looked
upon with skepticism are finding support through
these studies.
‘It is the degree of excellence and refinement of
fragrance and cosmetics at any given period of
civilization, which can be taken as index of the cultural
development of that period’, felt Dr. P. K. Gode.
• Indologists like Dr. P. K. Gode, Palaeo-botanists
like Prof. Birbal Sahani and Dr. P. V. Sithole have
done abundant work on medicinal and Aromatic
plants.
• P K Gode found -- ‘Gandhasara’ of Gangadhara
and ‘Gandhavada’ (Anonymous) composed
between 1200-1600 AD with a commentary in
Marathi, on the basis of earlier text.
• Dr. K. S. Saraswat and Dr. P. V. Pokharia
• Belong to the same period of time as Varahmira's
‘Brahtsamhita’ (500 AD), ‘Agni Purana’ (between
800 to 900 AD) and Someswara's ‘Manasollasa’
(1130 AD).
GANDHASHASTRA
• Gandhashastra or the science of odour is
part of Indian medical science of Ayurveda;
• Consequently the history of every Aromatic
ingredient (Gandhadravya) is part of the
Indian Materia Medica.
• Gandhasara by Gangadhara gives a glossary
devoted to Aromatic ingredients
(Gandhadravya) classified into different
vargas or classes.
GANDHADRAVYA – ESSENTIALS
OF PERFUMERY
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Leaves-Basil etc.
Flowers-Saffron, Champaka.
Fruits- Poppy, Nutmeg, Cardemon
Barks-Bark of cinnamon tree etc.
Woods- Sandal wood
Roots - Nagarmotha.Vala, Jatamassi etc.
Exudation from plant -- Camphor etc.
Organic products- Musk, Honey etc.
ESSENTIALS OF AROMATHERAPY
• This eight fold classification is in keeping with
modern concept of Aromatherapy which visualizes
effects of essential oils from different parts of the
plants.
• Flowers  sedating and relaxing
• Resins and barks  heating and make body fluids
move.
• Leaves  cooling and close to the haemoglobin
structure
• Roots  grounding and help develop confidence
• Fruits  growth oriented and produce an expanding
and stimulating effect
WOOD
CHARCOAL
FROM
SANGHOL
and Kunal
Hawan
Kunds
Source:
Dr. K. S. Saraswat
&
Dr. A. K. Pokharia
Birbal Sahni
Institute of
Palaeobotany
Lucknow
AROMATHERAPY AND SKIN
CARE TODAY (BEAUTY)
• The concept of beauty lies in well-being.
It does not necessarily mean chemically treated
hair with loads of conditioners or caked facial skin
with make up.
• It is not the beauty that we discuss but it is skin
health that we talk of as a healthy skin free from
hyper-pigmentation, warts, skin-tags, melasma,
milia, eczema, dermatitis, acne etc will
automatically be beautiful.
PINK OF HEALTH?
• Skin is the largest organ and suffers the most
due to a number of reasons –
–
–
–
–
–
–
–
Environment,
pollution,
radiation due to the ozone hole,
malfunction of the endocrines,
metabolic disorders,
stress,
tension
• name the problem and the skin suffers.
WONDERS OF TOUCH
COMMUNICATION
• Being an alternative method of healing, it
is not a solution which can be sold like an
OTC.
• It needs to be worked with. Its pathways
are skin, olfactory or by ingestion.
• These have to be managed with the
service, which should be skilful and the
results which follow may be slow, but will
be positive.
CONTACT DERMATITIS
ECZEMA
SKIN SOLUTIONS
• Psoriasis no longer remains to be a
genetic malfunction - Immunity
collapse due to various reasons has
become a cause for worry – wringtia
tinctoria has given good results and
provide relief.
• Spice oils like nutmeg, fennel, ajwain,
turmeric when blended well are helping
in detoxification and rejuvenation.
SKIN SOLUTIONS
• Blend of SC grade oils like Chandan, juniper
berry, Kachur-sugandhi and Jatamassi have
given relief in conditions of acne, contact
dermatitis and eczema.
• Turmeric oil is being promoted today as an
anti-tan formula as it prevents discolouration
of the skin. It is useful in skin diseases,
pruritus and allergic skin conditions. Other
benefits in cold cough and stomach ailments
are well known.
AYURVEDIC AROMATHERAPY
• Aromatherapy when blended well with other
techniques of Ayurveda also helps in
delivering the treatment.
• When used in Shirodhara the patients have
given an upward swing in the feeling of wellBeing. As it works on the pineal gland and
pituitary gland and, thereby, on the
hypothalamus and as a result on the
endocrines, thus balancing the hormones.
• This when combined with detoxification
technique of foot reflexology, lymph
drainage and skin polishing gives maximum
results.
Facial
Massage
Movements
Dosha : VATA
Dosha : VATA
Shape of face
Thin, long, egg shaped, small forehead
Skin
Cold, dry, sallow, rough, small pores,
wrinkled, dark circles, tans easily
Hair
Dark, dry, frizzy, thin, coarse
Lips
Thin, dry, tendency to crack
Sleep
Irregular, interrupted
Prone to
Excessive dryness, psoriasis, dandruff,
wrinkles, constipation, backache, arthritis,
nervous disorders, insomnia
Oils
Jasmine, sandalwood, vanilla, lemon
Dosha
: Pitta
Dosha : Pitta
Shape of face
Triangular with pointed chin
Skin
Warm, soft, reddish, pink, lustrous, large pores, red
nose, prone to allergic reactions, burns easily
Hair
Soft, straight, light or reddish, premature gray
Lips
Medium, soft, red, pink
Sleep
Little but sound
Prone to
Acne, rashes, cold sores, allergy, burning
sensations, peptic ulcers, liver disorders,
hypertension
Oils
Jasmine, sandalwood, vetiver
Dosha
:
Kapha
Dosha : Kapha
Shape of face Round or square
Skin
Cool, fair, oily, large pores, black heads, prone to
cystic acne, scarring, tans easily
Hair
Thick, oily, wavy, curly, black, shiny
Lips
Thick, pale
Sleep
Needs more sleep for a longer time, deep sleep
Prone to
Acne, oedema, swelling, sinus headaches, sore
throat, respiratory problems, asthma, diabetes,
tumours
Oils
Lavender, basil, ginger, rosemary
Aromatherapy and Cosmeceuticals
Normalising skin complex
Tea tree and licorice
Age defying complex
Walnut and orange
Soothing face mask
Licorice, marigold,
Macadamia
Botanical infusions –skin and eye
Marigold
Calming sensitive cream
Licorice and Macadamia
Soothing face lotion
Orange, licorice
Anti-stress
Licorice, calendula
Eye mask
Rose oil
Detoxifying
Ginger, Rosemary
IT’S ALL IN THE HEAD
• Like wise name the problem and it is the
brain which is unable to cope up with
dramatic changes in our lifestyle and
response to situations which are beyond
our comprehension.
• It is here that aromatherapy is the ideal
solution for detoxification and rejuvenation.
You have been entrusted with
the care and feeding of the most
extraordinary and complex
creation in the universe. Home
to your mind and personality,
your brain houses your
cherished memories and future
hopes. It orchestrates the
symphony of consciousness
that gives you purpose and
passion, motion and emotion.
AROMATHERAPY FOR ALL
• Aromatherapy in beauty care is a very vast canvas
to paint on and my efforts are to carry this to the
common man.
•
• What was once the prerogative of Kings, Queens
and the elite is now within common mans reach.
• All the best, lets all have WELL-BEING through
Aromatherapy and above all Aromatherapy with
Attars
THANK YOU