Bachelor of Fashion Design
(Knitwear Design)
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3
Linear Density
Ō The thickness or diameter of a yarn is
one of its most fundamental properties
Ō However, it is not possible to measure
the diameter of a yarn in any meaningful
way
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Linear Density
Ō This is because the diameter of a yarn
changes quite markedly as it is compressed
Ō Because of these problems a system of
denoting the fineness of a yarn by
weighing a known length of it has evolved
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Linear Density
ŌThis quantity is known as the linear
density and it can be measured with a high
degree of accuracy if a sufficient length of
yarn is used
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6
Tex
Direct
Denier
Count
English
Indirect
Worsted
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7
Count Determination
Ō Irrespective
of the system of yarn
numbering
employed,
two
basic
requirements for the determination of yarn
number are..
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8
Count Determination
ő An accurate value for the sample
length
ő An accurate value
for its weight
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9
Count Determination
Ō The methods determination of yarn
count depend to a large extent on the form
in which the yarn is available for testing
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Count Determination
Ō For example
ő when yarn is in form of ring bobbin a
long sample length is possible
ő when yarn is in form of fabric, only a
number of short lengths are available
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Count
Determination
Yarn Form
Fabric Form
Length
Measurement
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Weight
Measurement
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Weight Measurement
Ō Balances
ő The analytical balances and any other
balances used in determination of count
must be accurate and calibrated time to
time in order to get the exact readings
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Weight Measurement
Ō Moisture
ő Moisture contain can affect the results
largely so it is very important to do 24
hrs conditioning of the sample in
standard atmospheric condition
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14
Beesley Balance
Ō A number of special yarn balances are
available which are designed to furnish the
a quick estimate of the count, especially
when only small samples are at hand
Ō One of such balance is BEESLEY Balance
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Beesley Balance
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Beesley Balance
Ō The
Beesley Balance consists of a
lightweight
beam
pivoted
on
jewel
bearings with a hook at one end and a
pointer at the other
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Beesley Balance
Ō The beam is initially levelled to bring the
pointer against a datum line
Ō A standard weight is suspended in a
notch on the beam arm on the pointer
side.
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Beesley Balance
Ō A template is used to cut short lengths of
yarn, the length depending upon the count
system required
Ō These lengths are placed on the hook
until the pointer comes against the datum
line
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Beesley Balance
Ō The number of short lengths required to
balance the beam gives the count of the
yarn
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Beesley Balance
Ō A template is provided to give lengths of
yarn in Metric, Cotton, Linen, Wool Skein,
and worsted counts
Ō The balance is housed in a sheet metal
case having sliding transparent antistatic
glass doors
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